Cheaper electric brewing

[MikeMetroka]

Is it possible to use a temp controller like and ink bird or the like to "control" an electric element, boil coil or induction 'hot plate'?

Pot $2-400
Boil Coil $150

electric controller $500+

Some things are attainable but when you get into controller they double the cost of EB.

 

[Jayjay1976]

Inkbird makes great stuff but that type of ready-made temp controller can't handle the wattage necessary for a heating element. Also, those type of controllers are on/off only so it would run your element at full throttle until it reaches the set temperature, then it will overshoot by several degrees. You can cheaply build a controller with a PID controller and SSR relays that will taper power as it reaches temp to avoid overshooting. PID/SSR combos even including temp probe are available on amazon and ebay, including kits sold by Inkbird for ~$30-$45. Get a metal enclosure or even a plastic junction box to house everything and spend a few hours putting it together and save yourself a ton of $$$.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=pid+controller

Edit: I built my controller with an EZboil programmable PID to add some automated functions, but you could follow the same schematic I used with a plain jane PID. It controls twin 1500W elements plugged into different circuits to provide 220V performance in a typical 110V residential kitchen. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...th-automated-step-mashing-and-boiling.628573/

 

[MikeMetroka]

Thanks for info and links, very interesting!

 

[Staticsouls]

You could run your pump off the inkbird instead, and manually turn the heat on and off on the hlt.

 

[augiedoggy]

inkbird does sell the ip16 (or something to that effect) which is a rebuilt 16a pid based controller that will control a 2000w 120v heating element some people use these for rims and others use them to control one element while having a second just plugged into the wall and on 100%. the inkbird also has an alarm output which bobby has modified for a switched pump plug.

 

[Staticsouls]

I use the above mentioned type set up for my hot, and it works amazingly. The inkbird can hold temps once I get it there for as long as I need it to. For my build kettle I dont use any controller with 2x 2000w elements.

 

[kbaggen]

Hi there, might you should look at my side for a RIMS project!

http://posebryg.bagge-nielsen.dk/diy-rims/

But you can use a none-intelligent controller to hold the temperature, but it wil likely give some overshoot, but if no pump/aerator to blend(cooling effect) he temperature likely to be stady at the point of measument.....but likely way off the fare away you get from that point!

CraftBrewPi PID controller can be used with Hendi induction hot plate to hold temps very steady!
https://github.com/Manuel83/craftbeerpi/wiki/Hendi-Induction-cooker-model-3500-M--Setup

Not sure if this is what you are after!

 

[gnef]

I built really simple controllers. I have separate simple panels for my HLT and for my BK. For my HLT, I used a 220v standard temperature controller to trigger a 40amp SSR. Yes, there is drift, and it isn't as nice as a PID, but I like the simplicity, and I just account for the drift in my temperature setting. I also pump the water to circulate it and reduce stratification.

For my BK, I bought the still dragon kit DIY controller, which is just a variable resistor that controls the SSVR to dial in the power you want to the element. I really like the kit, and it works well for me.

 

[wilserbrewer]

“Cheaper electric brewing” you ask?
Hell yes it is possible to brew electric cheaply...

Why oh why is everyone hell bent on controlling mash temp to a gnats ass I ask? Many many more important things to worry about other than perfect mash temp when making beer imo. Today’s modern malts don’t really care about a degree or few and conversion happens quickly.

I have been brewing electric for over ten years without a “controller” same as all the propane brewers.

Basically by accurately hitting a strike temp and insulating the mash, either BIAB or cooler mash tun.

You can simply size the element to the brew kettle and boil at 100% with the element on.

The grainfather uses this approach for boiling...

Also funny using “cheaper” and “boil coil” in same post j/k.