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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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I would assume not. You are using a water cooler, correct? I would hope the plastic on the inside is foods grade safe and that max 185 degree water wouldn't affect the inside itself.

This Gott cooler has orange plastic for its liner. First time I have ever seen the same cooler of the body of the cooler as the liner.
 
This Gott cooler has orange plastic for its liner. First time I have ever seen the same cooler of the body of the cooler as the liner.

Also, looking at reviews online, it seems the only problem with this cooler is that the top leaks. Obviously yours will be standing still buy if the lid is that loose you may loose some efficiency in the cooler itself (e.g. the temp may drop). If you already have the cooler and can't return it you should go for it, I think you'll be fine.
 
First post!

I am converting a 5 gallon Rubbermaid to a SS false bottom MLT. I have not seen this question specifically asked, so please direct me if I have missed it. I have searched, but man there's a ton of great information to sift through.

For false bottom installations I have seen folks use hose to go from screen barb to outlet valve barb. I have also seen installations with a hard pipe between the two using compression fittings.

Which would be preferable?

I assume with the hose you get a cost savings, and easier removal for cleaning. But would you run the minimal risk of pinching the hose or disconnecting it accidentally? Maybe also allow the false bottom to move around? I can't imagine that would be very likely with all the grain weight pressing down.

The hard pipe option, I would think would still be removable for cleaning if you didn't crank down unreasonably on the compression nuts, no crush or disconnect issue, plus you'd have the advantage of being able to use the hard pipe to help keep the false bottom seated on the bottom of the cooler.

I am leaning toward hard pipe, but am I blind to any disadvantages?

Thanks!
 
I've seen it many different ways. the grain will not close down on the tube.

but like many, i use a bag. so much easier, and it also makes cleanup a breeze.
 
First post!

Welcome to HBT! :mug:

I am leaning toward hard pipe, but am I blind to any disadvantages?

Don't discount ease of removing the FB - or at least moving enough to get out of the way of a blast of water. Hard plumbing would make that at least incrementally more difficult with no obvious advantage over flexible tubing (reinforced silicone tubing, for example).

I use tubing on my 10g Rubbermaid, fwiw, and simply pull the FB up from the opposite side from the ball valve to hose out from under.

But, if you go with hard piping, do yourself a huge favor and use nylon compression sleeves...

Cheers!
 
Thanks. Man, there's so much to read up on. I am sure the efficiency on the job I actually get paid to do has dropped substantially in the last few months.

Yes, nylon compression sleeves is exactly what I was thinking. It's not like those connections have to be completely leak free either, so I figure use those and just finger tighten the nuts. Cut the hard pipe to a length that'd allow me to slide it a bit more into one fitting/out of the other then pull up the whole plate. Hoping that might not be any more trouble than pulling up the FB as you suggest if I go the hose route, and I'd get the benefit of knowing the FB is a bit more "fixed" to the bottom.
 
Can I use a ten gallon without a lid or will the 3 gallon lid fit on the ten gallon

You will need a lid to maintain temperature. I don't know if you are planning on batch or fly sparge, but if you plan to batch sparge, you don't need the round cooler. I would recommend you follow Denny's advice. Much cheaper, easier to assemble (less parts) and works just as well, maybe better.

http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
 
Can I use a ten gallon without a lid or will the 3 gallon lid fit on the ten gallon


Sounds like you have a 10 gallon without a lid.

While having a kid is ideal, you could use the 10 gallon and just cover with a foam board, or a pot lid and a blanket or towel.

Not a deal breaker IMO
 
I built my 10-gallon rubbermaid home-depot cooler today. having all the part numbers was a real breeze, but i must admit I was a little confused about just where the o-ring is supposed to fit. the opening in the front of the cooler is way bigger. I ended up pushing it back in between the threaded nipple and the stock spigot seal. I also got smaller 5/8 washer for the front that would fit in the indentation on the front, so they would help keep the whole arrangement centered. for the stainless washer, I got a metric one that would just barely fit on the threads of the nipple, then dremeled it out a tiny bit. It took a couple tries of putting it together and guessing how tight to make it, but when i made it 'fairly tight without large tools' it stopped leaking, so i'm tentatively optimistic.

had to make 3 extra trips to the store, one because the stock seal on mine was caught in the threads and damaged (poorly assembled by mfr), and another to exchange a washer that wasn't the size it was labeled, and one final trip to get a couple smaller fender-washers for the front. If it works perfectly from here on out, I'll be semi glad I spent a few hours to save 50 bucks or so. If not, then at least I learned something.
 
I'm going to try and buy the stuff to build one of these today. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
It seems the hard thing to find in Central New York in February is a 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. The folks at Home Depot had 2 in stock but they weren't on the floor yet. No one wanted to sell me one enough to go get it. Unfortunately, they appear to be the only place in 100 miles that I can find with them. So I went online and ordered it for pick up at the store. Seems someone will have to get it unpacked now anyway. The coolers were $48 at Home Depot, which is a solid $20 less than I can find them anywhere else. I spent a fair amount of time bopping around to find everything else I needed, but hopefully, after the cooler, I've got it all. I've got substitute stainless washers as I couldn't find the thicker fender washers even at Fastenal. They did have a pack of stainless washers there that are thinner and figured I'd just use more as needed. My braided hose looks much thicker than the one in the photos and I'm hoping it 'deflates' a bit after all the hardware is off so that I can get a good seal with my internal fittings. All said and done, I'm at about $100 into this so far though I'll have some extra o-rings and washers. Hope it works. It looks like a very similar product can be purchased complete (plus shipping) for around $130 from Northern Brewer. I'm seeing other folks saying the 3/8" fittings are the wrong size now too, I hope that isn't the case.

IMG_2156.jpg
 
I found the washers, fittings and spigots easiest to order from Amazon.

Your braided hose size will be fine. You will be cutting the ends off to remove the plastic liner tube and clamping with the worm clamps.

Been a while since I built mine but I believe the 3/8" refers to the fitting inner diameter (ID).
 
I bought the parts for this a couple of years ago and have yet to build it...lol. I guess I just haven't found a good reason to do any batch sparging yet. My local brew shop sells a false bottom made specifically for these Rubbermaid coolers so I went with that option rather than the braided hose. Maybe one day when the kids are grown and I'm retired I'll get around to building mine...
 
OK, the cooler search is getting silly. I'm going to buy a rectangle one and go from there. Drill my own hole if needed.
 
Why aren't you going with the 10gal Home Depot cooler?

Well, I ordered it online yesterday, for store stock. A day later they are still processing something I was supposed to be able to pick up in 2 hours and now I'm aggravated by it. They either don't have one and didn't let me know or they can't close off one of those aisles like they always do and grab one off the top shelves (where I saw the 5 gallon ones). I literally can't find a stand up 10 gallon cooler anywhere else remotely nearby. I've checked Target, Walmart, Bass Pro Shops, Dick's Sporting Goods, and Lowe's.
 
I'm anxious to get a mash tun put together, so using the parts described in the initial post, plus some assorted extra gaskets, I've opted to buy one of these Coleman Xtreme 50 quart coolers ($30 at Wal-mart). They boast of up to 5 days insulating power and the design is moderately compact and mobile with wheels and collapsible handle. The existing plug drains out the backside on an angle between the wheels. This is actually a pretty good design except I do not believe it sits high enough to accommodate for the valve and nozzle that will be attached. It would extend beyond the level of the wheels. With that in mind, my plan is simply to drill a 3/8" whole in the side instead at the base, allowing enough bottom clearance for my hardware. This way I won't lose the functionality of the wheels or worry about having to store the thing on it's side.

Editing to note that the internal diameter of my fittings are 3/8" so the clearance I'll need for the pass through piece will be 5/8" I believe.

Wish me luck.

884bac5b-e4de-455a-9640-416b31b31fb7_1.eb6b4a0ca6c3b49b7f8ca02785cfe09a.jpeg


dac95010-fcfa-4b22-9c8b-4088c31d9aff_1.1cda7cdecd695ca1986806ee387d6a04.jpeg
 
OK, the cooler search is getting silly. I'm going to buy a rectangle one and go from there. Drill my own hole if needed.


Here's a simple DIY Mash Tun from a square cooler.

Do use the food grade silicon sealer,

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UuIKHC57ROQ[/ame]
 
I've said it before, but I guess I'll say it again. If I were to do it over, I would have just gone with a rectangular cooler ala Denny. If you don't fly sparge, there is no need for a round cooler and the Denny's system is cheap, simple and effective.

http://www.dennybrew.com/
 
Thanks for the extra tips. I see there are simpler solutions but I started putting mine together last night with the parts I already had (confirmed lead free fittings). Unfortunately, the pass through piece of pipe (1.5" long) is not long enough for this style cooler so I need to make hopefully one last hardware stop for a longer piece. I drilled a 1/2" hole through the front base of the cooler which will make it easier to tip if needed to get out extra wort. The 3/8" fitting fits snug with some wiggling in so I don't anticipate having too much play in it once I tighten it all up.

16406925_10209850414674970_7317355772872297396_n.jpg


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Home brewing is much like tying flies. You could just buy the stuff........but why not make it harder than it is.
 
Got a Home Depot literally in my back yard and I need to build something soon. Thank you for the step by step instructions.
 
The Coleman 52 Extreme cooler is on sale at Walmart for under 23 bucks.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Coleman-52-Quart-Extreme-Cooler-Blue/21721549

Pull some tubing through the bulkhead , attach a braid and have a wonderful batch sparger or full volume mash tun for about 35 dollars.
All you really need IMHO, and 5 - 10 gallon batch capable.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=125108

I made my mash tun from a ten gallon cooler, a $2 water cooler spigot, and a voile bag. I made my own bag, but I heard there is a guy on HBT who will custom make one for you! :)
 

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