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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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hey everyone,

I followed all the instructions and get all the parts. The one item I am missing is the seal from the spout on the cooler. I will have to drill my own hole and am worried about water getting into the innards of the cooler and messing the insulation up.

Will the stainless steel washer be OK by itself to seal water into the cooler? Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 
Fastenal Rules!!!!

I just got back from the store it is like meca of cool stuff...

I picked up a 10 pack of 5/8 Stainless flat washers, for $8.40!!!

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1171026

showImage.ex


Home page http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

The place is awsome...I could have spent hours looking at everything...I made do by snagging a catalogue instead...the sucker is nearly 4" thick.
 
Do you mean to use silicone caulk to seal the washer onto the side of the cooler, or to seal the nipple into the drilled hole in the cooler?

All of the above. You want to keep liquid in the cooler and if it leaks, keep it of the cooler walls.

Personally, I'd goop up the hole, push the nipple through, put a bead around the nipple on the inner and outer walls, put on the washers and tighten it all up until silicone squishes out the gaps.
 
All of the above. You want to keep liquid in the cooler and if it leaks, keep it of the cooler walls.

Personally, I'd goop up the hole, push the nipple through, put a bead around the nipple on the inner and outer walls, put on the washers and tighten it all up until silicone squishes out the gaps.

Thanks for the tip! This was more or less what I was thinking of doing.
 
So I have read this entire thread and haven't found a satisfactory answer for this:

Has anyone who has used the zinc-plated OR neoprene washers had any off flavors in their beer as a result?

I only took the parts list to the store with me without reading the rest of the thread, so I ended up with a zinc-plated washer for the inside, and now after reading the thread I have two neoprene washers I am ready to install on the inside. Before I dis- and re-assemble this thing (which is not leaking AT ALL by the way), should I be realistically concerned about problems from the neoprene or zinc in the first place?


EDIT: I just replaced the interior zinc-plated washers with the neoprene as well as a neoprene on the exterior closest to the cooler. Looking at the zinc-plated washer, there is already some minor discoloration and staining from my first cool water test that I conducted right after I finished building the MLT. I would say that with the added grains, hot water, etc. the zinc-plated washers are pretty much assured to corrode when used in a mash. I am testing with the neoprene washers right now. I have tasted the water coming out of the cooler after the hot-water test and I really cannot detect any flavors of rubber or waterhose which is what I would expect having handled them, so while they may impart some off flavors, it isn't concentrated enough for my pallet anyways. They don't look as tidy on the inside, because after you tighten the neoprene washers down without a metal washer in front of it, they kind of curve, but there is 0 leakage thus far, so the seal around the little cooler seal where the neoprene is between the original cooler seal and the female adapter inside seems to be very good. I do think that an improvement on the original design is having the neoprene washer on the exterior butting up against the cooler wall. The minor downside seems to be that the rubber allows the spigot to move a little more, but even jiggling it around doesn't prompt leaks at this point. I would say the 5/8 neoprene plus two zinc-plated on the exterior would be a good alternative to all SS.
 
zinc will react very much so with acid. When it reacts it will give off a zinc salt + hydrogen. I could see the zinc salt possible giving off bad flavors. If your mash is around a PH of 5, that is in the acidic part of the PH chart. So I would say yes.....zinc plating would probably be a good thing to steer clear of.
 
I've used a 5 gallon square cooler with a SS braid setup for several brews without any problems. However, I upgraded to a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler just like the one here, and transferred my valve and SS braid. Everything transferred over just fine, no leaks, but my first brew with this and I got a stuck mash. :mad: And not like a slow trickle...just nothing coming out at all!

I blew into the hose to see if it was clogged with anything, but it was clear. I also tried sucking but it seemed to be airtight. My SS braid has high temp silicone tubing with notches cut into it. I'm thinking that maybe the tubing after a few uses has fatigues and is collapsing under the wieght of the mash. Any ideas about this and how to fix it? I've been thinking of going for a false bottom, or fabbing up a small PVC manifold.
 
Sorry to hear about the stuck mash, just chalk it up as one more good reason to drink more beer!! I've got a 10 gallon beverage cooler and use a false bottom, after 50+ batches I still haven't had a stuck mash. Get with Jaybird and see if he still has any left.
 
So was in the process of making my MLT according to these directions. great idea btw. But after reading about all of the leak problems, and hard times finding 10 gal round coolers or SS washers, i got an idea.
dsc00039we9.jpg


Instead of trying to make a new seal and risk a leak, i tried to use the original. It was a perfect fit with the ball valve! Would of never guessed. So wrapped the spigot with teflon tape, and tested it. absolutely no leaks. For the braid i just wedged it in the inside of the original seal, and it too fit almost perfectly.

dsc00040zv6.jpg


AG here i come!
 
Sorry to hear about the stuck mash, just chalk it up as one more good reason to drink more beer!! I've got a 10 gallon beverage cooler and use a false bottom, after 50+ batches I still haven't had a stuck mash. Get with Jaybird and see if he still has any left.

Thanks for the tip! He does indeed have some more, so I'll be getting one of those false bottoms for sure. I have a couple of questions for you also:

1. What did you use for a pickup tube? Any pics?
2. Since his false bottoms aren't domed, did you have to add any spacers to raise it off the bottom? If so, what did you use?

Thanks again!
 
Thanks for the tip! He does indeed have some more, so I'll be getting one of those false bottoms for sure. I have a couple of questions for you also:

1. What did you use for a pickup tube? Any pics?
2. Since his false bottoms aren't domed, did you have to add any spacers to raise it off the bottom? If so, what did you use?

Thanks again!

The ones that Jay makes aren't domed, I would just use some S/S bolts and nuts to make some legs for it to hold the false bottom up about an inch or two off the bottom of the cooler. The setup im using right now is the 10gal A/G cooler setup from morebeer.com. I got it about a year ago before I even knew about this site and looking back I wish I did. I'm in the process of piecing together a brutus ten and I'm going to use the false bottom that I got from Jaybird. I'd definetley get one before he runs out. As for the pickup tube on a flat false bottom, look back through the thread and you'll see a couple different setups that use rigid pipe, copper or S/S would both work fine.

*Edit* The thread I was referring too is the one in the classified section where he is selling the false bottoms.
 
Ok,
so a quick question here for all of you who have built and used one of these rubbermaid cooler MLT's...

I just got my 10 gallon cooler, and have not had a chance to use it yet, and I am trying to wrap my head around batch sizes.

Assuming that I am doing a "normal" 4% - 5% alcohol beer, what is the largest batch size that a 10 gallon MLT will accommodate? I know that I should be able to run a few calculations and figure this out, but for some reason my head is just not wrapping around the concept well, and I figure, you all have used the things, I will just ask what batch sizes you are making.
 
Ok,
so a quick question here for all of you who have built and used one of these rubbermaid cooler MLT's...

I just got my 10 gallon cooler, and have not had a chance to use it yet, and I am trying to wrap my head around batch sizes.

Assuming that I am doing a "normal" 4% - 5% alcohol beer, what is the largest batch size that a 10 gallon MLT will accommodate? I know that I should be able to run a few calculations and figure this out, but for some reason my head is just not wrapping around the concept well, and I figure, you all have used the things, I will just ask what batch sizes you are making.

I used a 5 gallon cooler before this and I was able to get up to a 1.055 starting gravity with this much volume for a 5.5 gallon batch. This works out to about 5-6% ABV depending on terminal gravity readings (my Pale Ales came out at 5.6%). Now, my efficiency was only 70%, so if you could get better efficiency then you would be able to brew a "bigger" beer. So if I take this same formula and apply it to my new 10 gallon setup, then I should be able to make a 10 gallon batch of beer with the same ABV. I wouldn't count on doing much more than 10 gallons, although if you were able to get great efficiency and aim for a 4-4.5% ABV you might be able to get a 15 gallon batch out of one mash.
 
Thanks, that is the kind of info I am looking for. I usually do beers in the 4% - 5% range, and I am in the process of converting a couple of kegs to go with my new rubbermaid cooler, so based upon what you said, I should have no problem at all doing 10 - 12 gallon batches once all my new gear is ready to go.
 
Thanks, that is the kind of info I am looking for. I usually do beers in the 4% - 5% range, and I am in the process of converting a couple of kegs to go with my new rubbermaid cooler, so based upon what you said, I should have no problem at all doing 10 - 12 gallon batches once all my new gear is ready to go.

I've been on the prowl for a keg myself...so I can make a keggle and do 10 gallon batches. With my 5 gallon batches, I normally collect 7-7.5 gallons but my last runnings are typically 1.03x or so. I think there are still some sugars in there, which means I could probably do another round of sparging and extract a bit more wort for the boil. I wonder myself if I could possibly get enough wort to do a 15 gallon batch. Or how about this: Take the first 7.5 gallons and make an IPA out of that, then take the next 7.5 gallons and make a blonde, or pale ale? Damn, now I'm getting all excited about brewing and I still have 7 hours of work left :D.
 
As to myself, I am shooting for about 12 gallon batches, the keggle being able to hold a max of 15.5 gallons. With some foam control, I would thing that 12 gallons should be no problem. As to fermenting a batch that size, I currently have about a dozen carboys, pretty much evenly split between 5 gallon and 6-6.5 gallon. My thought is to split a 12 gallon batch between three of them. Not only will this greatly increase my capacity, versus my current 5 gallon batches, but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing. Now I just have to finish building all the toys so that I can get started.
 
As to myself, I am shooting for about 12 gallon batches, the keggle being able to hold a max of 15.5 gallons. With some foam control, I would thing that 12 gallons should be no problem. As to fermenting a batch that size, I currently have about a dozen carboys, pretty much evenly split between 5 gallon and 6-6.5 gallon. My thought is to split a 12 gallon batch between three of them. Not only will this greatly increase my capacity, versus my current 5 gallon batches, but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing. Now I just have to finish building all the toys so that I can get started.

Just thought I'd add my two cents here....... When you split your wort between a few different carboys to ferment, why not try using different strains of yeast in each one. Even though the grain bill was the same for all of them you'll be suprised as to the different flavors you'll get from the finished beers. I was just reading an article on this where a homebrew club broke up their wort into several different one gallon jugs and used a different yeast for each one. The outcome was several great tasting beers with just a simple change in yeast. I havent done this my self yet but plan to do it soon.
 
That is a good idea.

I am looking to try to make an all-grain setup myself. Right now I have a turkey fryer and 2 5 gallon carboys and a 6.5 gallon carboy. I also have a 5 gallon fermenting bucket but I don't want to use that unless I have to. What equipment would guys recommend I get to change the setup to an all-grain setup. I am looking for the most cost effective way.
 
That is a good idea.

I am looking to try to make an all-grain setup myself. Right now I have a turkey fryer and 2 5 gallon carboys and a 6.5 gallon carboy. I also have a 5 gallon fermenting bucket but I don't want to use that unless I have to. What equipment would guys recommend I get to change the setup to an all-grain setup. I am looking for the most cost effective way.

If your trying to go AG on the cheap why not just get some kind of insulation and wrap your plastic bucket and use it as your MLT. Pretty much the same principle as a 5gal beverage cooler. Just add a false bottom or some kind of screen/manifold to strain out the grain when you recirculate/sparge. As long as your kettle is big enough for full boils thats all you should really need. Well that and another bucket of some type for your HLT. Ive seen some AG kits around the web that sell a bucket wrap for just that purpose.
 
Just thought I'd add my two cents here....... When you split your wort between a few different carboys to ferment, why not try using different strains of yeast in each one. Even though the grain bill was the same for all of them you'll be suprised as to the different flavors you'll get from the finished beers. I was just reading an article on this where a homebrew club broke up their wort into several different one gallon jugs and used a different yeast for each one. The outcome was several great tasting beers with just a simple change in yeast. I havent done this my self yet but plan to do it soon.

Now why didn't I think of that :drunk:

but it will also give me the ability to do a lot of experimenting. Different yeasts on the same recipe, same yeast but at different temperatures, that type of thing.
 
LMFAO!!!! HAHA I'm a retard, sorry. I had the day off today and think I may have "tasted" one to many of my brews. Oh well, I'll chalk that one up as my first "post whoring" expeirence......unless of course this counts as one too. Oh well I think I'll drink to that!
 
LMFAO!!!! HAHA I'm a retard, sorry. I had the day off today and think I may have "tasted" one to many of my brews. Oh well, I'll chalk that one up as my first "post whoring" expeirence......unless of course this counts as one too. Oh well I think I'll drink to that!

Silly post-whore :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I think I read the same article, and was thinking that would be awesome to do. I want to take something that I brew all the time, and see how small changes to the overall equation impact the final product.
 
I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.
 
I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.

Oddly enough my last post didn't post so I'll try again.


Check out this guys series of vids on youtube. Here is the 1st vid of 8. Watch them all a few times. He does a good job explaining the AG process.

 
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I can get a 10 gallon cooler from my girlfriends dad so I was thinking of converting that.

I guess I am just confused on how many things I need for AG. I know I need something to put the crushed grains in and let them sit in there. Then I need to sparge then grain, is this right? Then I transfer the wort to my kettle. Am I right here? I have only done 2 extract brews but I would much rather just jump right in to AG brewing so any help would be great.

Try reading this, it should shed some light on the basics of going all grain.http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/index.html
 

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