Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[mr_cad]

Thanks for this thread guys. I just built my MLT using an IGLOO cooler that I got from my dad for FREE. He works for Coca-Cola and had 3 Powerade Igloo coolers in the shop so I asked him for one. I had a little trouble getting the valve snug but I added an extra washer and sinched it tight. Ended up with 8 washers total. 5 outside and 3 inside. I also added an additional O-ring so the thickness equaled the cooler thickness. Im not even an all-grain brewer yet but I had the stuff on hand so why not build. If you build it...AG will come.

 

[bwitt]

I just finished building this project and am doing a hot water leak test now. So far no leaks.

I used oetiker clamps instead of the screw clamps to connect the braid to the valve and brass plug. So we will see how they hold up.

I had a heck of a time finding ss washers. I wound up ordering a box of 100 and only used 5 so I have extras if anyone needs some.

 

[FEARDIZ]

ok I read the whole 37 pages so far..
What's the difference between the round coolers and the square or rectangle coolers? the rectangle coolers I see for about $15 for 10 gal, and the round ones if you can find them are in the $40-50 range..

As I try to understand the AG process.. I've done a few PM's so far.. couldn't you just put a fine SS screen over the existing cooler spout and forget about all this work with the spout and washers etc? What we are really doing is just keeping the water hot with the grains in the cooler, then the liquid needs to drain with keeping the grains out of the liquid.

Can someone explain in laymans terms how to rinse or sparge the grains with this setup..

thanks

 

[FlyGuy]

This basic setup will also work with rectangular coolers just fine. The round Rubbermaid coolers are nice because they hold heat really well, their geometry is ideal, and if you want to switch to a fly sparge setup, all you have to do is pop in an off-the-shelf false bottom and sparge arm and away you go. The rectangular ones can be used as well, but you will have to use a manifold or custom-designed false bottom. But the rectangular coolers can be considerably cheaper, too.

You also don't need to put in a ball valve rig. It is not required, but very nice to have for a batch sparging setup (although perhaps more necessary if you move to fly sparging). See Denny Conn's website for a really cheap solution that requires minimal hardware.

If you want to learn more about the mashing/sparging process, there is a TON of information in the All Grain forum. The setup described in this article is for batch sparging, which is the most straightforward technique. All you do is mash your grains, then drain the sweet wort out of the mash tun. Add some more water, stir it up, then drain (repeat as necessary). Nothing could be simpler.

 

[blacklab]

As I try to understand the AG process.. I've done a few PM's so far.. couldn't you just put a fine SS screen over the existing cooler spout and forget about all this work with the spout and washers etc? What we are really doing is just keeping the water hot with the grains in the cooler, then the liquid needs to drain with keeping the grains out of the liquid.

Yes, you could just put a screen in over the factory spout and mash away. Two problems; 1) you will be sitting there holding that little white button on the factory spout for long periods of time. This would work OK for batch, but for fly sparging this absolutely not work as you would not be able to match the flow rates. 2) not sure you could get a hose over the factory spout to run to the boil kettle.

Installing the better spout and braid will make the whole process more enjoyable and efficient.

 

[ShortSnoutBrewing]

1) you will be sitting there holding that little white button on the factory spout for long periods of time. This would work OK for batch, but for fly sparging this absolutely not work as you would not be able to match the flow rates.

Don't forget, you're draining HOT liquid. That factory spigot is going to get mighty hot! Not that I know from experience or anything.

 

[blacklab]

Don't forget, you're draining HOT liquid. That factory spigot is going to get mighty hot! Not that I know from experience or anything.

Word. that's number three. Your liquid will be 150 degrees. I bet that little white button gets nice and hot as well.

 

[FEARDIZ]

I was thinking it was a twist type lever and not a button.. Guess most coolers have the button now.. so you could rig something to hold the button in to pour your wort

I'll look again at the batch / fly sparge, and see if it makes sence

 

[FEARDIZ]

so.. from John Palmer
"Batch Sparging is a U.S. homebrewing practice where the full volume of sparge water is mixed into the mash. The grain bed is allowed to settle, and then the wort is drained off. The re-circulation step in this process takes place in the first minutes of the sparge. You can use more than one batch of water if you need to. This method differs from the English method in that the mash is not held for any significant time at the saccharification temperature before draining."

so for this cooler MLT, and batch sparge.. let me know if this sounds right,
so put grains in cooler
put 1.5-2 qt per lbs of grain of 170 deg. water into cooler with grains
keeping the mix at ~160 for 60 minutes
after 60 min. add 1.5x water used before at 170 deg.
wait for grain bed to settle.. I guess so it's not floating around ??
start draining the water into the kettle , you can put some back in the MLT if it's seems a little 'dirty'

 

[FlyGuy]

so.. from John Palmer
"Batch Sparging is a U.S. homebrewing practice where the full volume of sparge water is mixed into the mash. The grain bed is allowed to settle, and then the wort is drained off. The re-circulation step in this process takes place in the first minutes of the sparge. You can use more than one batch of water if you need to. This method differs from the English method in that the mash is not held for any significant time at the saccharification temperature before draining."

so for this cooler MLT, and batch sparge.. let me know if this sounds right,
so put grains in cooler
put 1.5-2 qt per lbs of grain of 170 deg. water into cooler with grains
keeping the mix at ~160 for 60 minutes
after 60 min. add 1.5x water used before at 170 deg.
wait for grain bed to settle.. I guess so it's not floating around ??
start draining the water into the kettle , you can put some back in the MLT if it's seems a little 'dirty'

That is the basic procedure, although some of the finer points (grain/water ratio, mash temperature) could be tweaked. I suggest that if you are looking for advice on mashing and sparging, you move your question to the All Grain forum, rather than sticking it here in this mash tun construction thread.

 

[FEARDIZ]

ok I can live with that.. I really wanted to know if that is the procedure your all doing with the coolers.. I'll move my details to the other thread

thanks

 

[Mike C]

Sorry to come to this late,but I used the OP as a guide in building mine and I thought I should give credit where it's due. So, thanks a lot! Here are the links to pics:

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41/testbenchdude/IMG_0275.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41/testbenchdude/IMG_0276.jpg

I haven't used it yet; I need to convert a keg to kettle before I try my first AG.

Cheers~

 

[BuffaloSabresBrewer]

A bump because Im going to pick up parts for my conversion tomorrow.

 

[chemystree]

awesome tutorial! works perfectly and i'm making a second one today for my dad who recently caught brewing fever!

 

[BeerCanuck]

That mash tun rocks...just put one together

well done FlyGuy

Cheers
BeerCanuck

 

[Revvy]

I did it over the weekend on a 5 gallon for Partial Mashes. It truly rocks!!!

 

[sigmund]

Might as well add my tip of the hat and mug to FlyGuy for getting the ball rolling with this thread. I put mine together a few weeks ago and used it for my first AG last week. I made my manifold from copper rather than braid, but the end result was still great.

 

[mynamestanner]

Just picked up all the parts at Lowes. Having a list of all the part numbers really rocks. Total bill was just over $20.

Oh for the washers, I just had some 5/8 stainless fender washers stamped out. Working nights in a sheet metal shop = good.

Should have pics of the MLT all built sometime this weekend!

 

[Mike C]

Quick question:

When I drilled out the holes in my copper manifold, I was left with all sort of jaggies and sharp edges. I want to file them down, but I'm concerned that I'll be making a lot of extra copper surface available to corrosion (due to the inevitable scoring that filing will introduce).

What's the best way of "cleaning" up all the sharp edges and splinters of copper left over from drilling?

Thanks~

 

[truajb]

Just curious if anyone else has noticed or was worried about HEAT loss through the Ball Valve and Piping on their mash tuns. I got paranoid about this so I got a piece of piping insulation covered it. I don't think I've read or seen anyone do this, so I thought I'd throw this idea out there.....

 

[drunkatuw]

I wouldn't be too concerned about losing heat in the ball valve. You'll lose a lot more heat in the tubing used to transfer from the MLT to boil kettle. Unless you plan to insulate that tubing as well.

 

[rabidgerbil]

WHOOHOOO...
So I built my 5 gallon version of the MLT a few months back, and have not had time to use it yet. I was hoping to break it in this last week, but found that my brew kettle had a crack in the bottom, so that put a quick end to my brew day. Since I have to get a new brew kettle, I have been looking for local legal sources for used kegs, and looking to do a keg to kettle conversion. That being said, I was not liking the thought of my 5 gallon MLT anymore, but, when I built it, no one in town had 10 gallon coolers that I could find.

My WHOOHOO is because I found a couple of 10 gallon ones in stock at the local Home Depot over the weekend. I will swap the bulkheads between my current five, and the new ten, and put the five gallon one to use some other way. Maybe it will be my sangria dispenser at my 4th of July party.

 

[BrewinRob]

Was just at my local Home Depot and they must have about 10 of them (Milpitas, CA). I already picked 2 up from there at the $39.97 price.

 

[IlliniSox4Life]

I have a question, that I am sure has been answered a million times, but I haven't really been able to find the answer, and I'm just all mixed up in the head, so sorry in advance:

What factors should go into cooler selection? Can you get "too big" of a cooler? I have an unused 17 gallon rectangular cooler. Is this too large? I plan on primarily brewing 5 gallon batches. Are circular better than rectangular?

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

Was just at my local Home Depot and they must have about 10 of them (Milpitas, CA). I already picked 2 up from there at the $39.97 price.

Rob, were they the Rubbermaid brand or something else? I'm looking at getting one of these too, but I can't find the product on their website.

 

[BrewinRob]

They are Rubbermaid, but with a little HomeDepot logo on it. They are the "Victory" style, just like the first picture in this thread. I don't think that they have them on their site. If you want to order them on the web, might try Ace. They have 'em for around $50 each with free shipping to your local Ace.

 

[Mike C]

Quick question:

When I drilled out the holes in my copper manifold, I was left with all sort of jaggies and sharp edges. I want to file them down, but I'm concerned that I'll be making a lot of extra copper surface available to corrosion (due to the inevitable scoring that filing will introduce).

What's the best way of "cleaning" up all the sharp edges and splinters of copper left over from drilling?

Thanks~

Anybody? Am I concerned about nothing?

 

[Mustangj]

Maybe some sandpaper.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Anybody? Am I concerned about nothing?

I would try using a 3M scotchbrite pad or progressively finer grads of sand paper.

 

[Lukus]

I got my 10 gal. cooler at Sportsmans warehouse $39.95 over the weekend.

 

[Cugel]

hey everyone,

I followed all the instructions and get all the parts. The one item I am missing is the seal from the spout on the cooler. I will have to drill my own hole and am worried about water getting into the innards of the cooler and messing the insulation up.

Will the stainless steel washer be OK by itself to seal water into the cooler? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

 

[Philip1993]

Will the stainless steel washer be OK by itself to seal water into the cooler? Any suggestions?

No, create a gasket with some silicone.

 

[Cugel]

No, create a gasket with some silicone.

Thanks for the quick reply!

Do you mean to use silicone caulk to seal the washer onto the side of the cooler, or to seal the nipple into the drilled hole in the cooler?

Thanks again.

 

[Revvy]

Fastenal Rules!!!!

I just got back from the store it is like meca of cool stuff...

I picked up a 10 pack of 5/8 Stainless flat washers, for $8.40!!!

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=1171026

Home page http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex

The place is awsome...I could have spent hours looking at everything...I made do by snagging a catalogue instead...the sucker is nearly 4" thick.

 

[Philip1993]

Do you mean to use silicone caulk to seal the washer onto the side of the cooler, or to seal the nipple into the drilled hole in the cooler?

All of the above. You want to keep liquid in the cooler and if it leaks, keep it of the cooler walls.

Personally, I'd goop up the hole, push the nipple through, put a bead around the nipple on the inner and outer walls, put on the washers and tighten it all up until silicone squishes out the gaps.

 

[Cugel]

All of the above. You want to keep liquid in the cooler and if it leaks, keep it of the cooler walls.

Personally, I'd goop up the hole, push the nipple through, put a bead around the nipple on the inner and outer walls, put on the washers and tighten it all up until silicone squishes out the gaps.

Thanks for the tip! This was more or less what I was thinking of doing.

 

[dragonlor20]

So I have read this entire thread and haven't found a satisfactory answer for this:

Has anyone who has used the zinc-plated OR neoprene washers had any off flavors in their beer as a result?

I only took the parts list to the store with me without reading the rest of the thread, so I ended up with a zinc-plated washer for the inside, and now after reading the thread I have two neoprene washers I am ready to install on the inside. Before I dis- and re-assemble this thing (which is not leaking AT ALL by the way), should I be realistically concerned about problems from the neoprene or zinc in the first place?


EDIT: I just replaced the interior zinc-plated washers with the neoprene as well as a neoprene on the exterior closest to the cooler. Looking at the zinc-plated washer, there is already some minor discoloration and staining from my first cool water test that I conducted right after I finished building the MLT. I would say that with the added grains, hot water, etc. the zinc-plated washers are pretty much assured to corrode when used in a mash. I am testing with the neoprene washers right now. I have tasted the water coming out of the cooler after the hot-water test and I really cannot detect any flavors of rubber or waterhose which is what I would expect having handled them, so while they may impart some off flavors, it isn't concentrated enough for my pallet anyways. They don't look as tidy on the inside, because after you tighten the neoprene washers down without a metal washer in front of it, they kind of curve, but there is 0 leakage thus far, so the seal around the little cooler seal where the neoprene is between the original cooler seal and the female adapter inside seems to be very good. I do think that an improvement on the original design is having the neoprene washer on the exterior butting up against the cooler wall. The minor downside seems to be that the rubber allows the spigot to move a little more, but even jiggling it around doesn't prompt leaks at this point. I would say the 5/8 neoprene plus two zinc-plated on the exterior would be a good alternative to all SS.

 

[RodfatherX]

zinc will react very much so with acid. When it reacts it will give off a zinc salt + hydrogen. I could see the zinc salt possible giving off bad flavors. If your mash is around a PH of 5, that is in the acidic part of the PH chart. So I would say yes.....zinc plating would probably be a good thing to steer clear of.

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

I've used a 5 gallon square cooler with a SS braid setup for several brews without any problems. However, I upgraded to a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler just like the one here, and transferred my valve and SS braid. Everything transferred over just fine, no leaks, but my first brew with this and I got a stuck mash. And not like a slow trickle...just nothing coming out at all!

I blew into the hose to see if it was clogged with anything, but it was clear. I also tried sucking but it seemed to be airtight. My SS braid has high temp silicone tubing with notches cut into it. I'm thinking that maybe the tubing after a few uses has fatigues and is collapsing under the wieght of the mash. Any ideas about this and how to fix it? I've been thinking of going for a false bottom, or fabbing up a small PVC manifold.

 

[Displaced MassHole]

Sorry to hear about the stuck mash, just chalk it up as one more good reason to drink more beer!! I've got a 10 gallon beverage cooler and use a false bottom, after 50+ batches I still haven't had a stuck mash. Get with Jaybird and see if he still has any left.