Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[Trippel-A]

is a Fender washer mandatory, or would a flat washer work?

All I need is that O ring (which HD carries but were sold out of) and I'm good to go.

I just finished mine, and had first tried to get these parts, unsuccessfully, at Home Depot.

The problem is that you need a washer with a 5/8" hole, and a maximum outside diameter of not much more than 1", or it won't fit on the inside of the cooler (the spout hole is close to the bottom). And it has to be pretty rigid and thick just to do its job of holding the washer down tight. I don't know if "fender washer" specifically means something with that small outside to inside diameter ratio and still fairly thick... but if it does, then you need a fender washer.

Other people with access to shop tools have started with a flat washer and have drilled the central hole larger.

Others have mentioned bargainfittings.com, which has the washers and your o-rings. And these parts are a lot easier to find on bargainfittings.com than on McMaster Carr's website. That's what I'd do if your local option doesn't pan out.

 

[Damoxemus]

Thanks Grem,

I'm sure they'll fit in, just want to make sure they'll fit into the cooler after. I think the Fender washer would be to big so I'm just going to grab 4 SS 5/8 washers from a marine supply shop.

That said, I will take the stuff to make sure.

 

[newbies13]

The trick for me is that those washers are hard to find solo, but if you look in the same isle for a multi pack you should find it easily. It comes with washers and nuts and possibly something else, I don't recall. But you get about 4 washers in the multi pack and was the only place I could find them in home depot.

 

[fosaisu]

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

 

[fosaisu]

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

To at least partially answer my own question, I've now been to two different (Denver area) Home Depos and all the 10 gallon coolers I looked at have a slightly uneven bottom. Maybe just a mfr defect in the most recent lot to make it to my area, but maybe that's just the deal with these coolers. Not a huge deal for sure so I guess I'll just live with it.

 

[Trippel-A]

Do the Home Depot Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers generally stand flat, or do they tend to rock a little bit? The one I just picked up does, and I'm trying to decide if I should return it or just live with it

I bought two orange 10 gallon Rubbermaid coolers from a different source. Both rock slightly when empty. But not when full, so functionally it doesn't matter at all.

 

[Damoxemus]

So, I went and got all the stuff needed to build this but the 3/8 brass nipple doesn't fit. It seems too small. The original spigot and seal are about 3/4 inch. Here's a pic below for comparison.


I'm hoping to find a 3/4" female coupling that can just put the nipple into and then buy another one for the other side. I thought of getting a 3/4" nipple as well, but I don't think I could find SS washers big enough to fit on there as 5/8 was the biggest I could find.


Suggestions?

 

[grem135]

3/8 is for the hose. 5/8 for the threads.
If I'm understanding you right.

 

[Damoxemus]

well, the brass nippple is what goes through the cooler and connects the outside to the inside.

If you click this video (it's at the specific time needed), you'll see he has to wiggle that nipple and barely gets it through.

With my Cooler there's about 1/8 to 1/4" of room, so it's not tight at all. Def not air tight.

My brass nipple on the right in that picture is much too small to fit securely into that seal on the left (top).

 

[dyqik]

I had to switch to 1/2" fittings, which fit well in my 5 gallon HD orange cooler. The kit I bought comes in 3/8" and 1/2" versions for different round coolers (HD Orange coolers are 1/2", Igloo are 3/8" I think).

 

[Trippel-A]

My brass nipple on the right in that picture is much too small to fit securely into that seal on the left (top).

You've definitely got the wrong nipple. And, by extension, your valves, couplings, etc will be wrong, too. Sorry.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

Swapped my entire brass setup with this

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=47&product_id=85

Best money i spent, honestly i wish i had just found this when i was putting mine together in the first place.

Basically the same price after buying so many $3-4 fittings at Homedepot/Lowes.

 

[Damoxemus]

You've definitely got the wrong nipple. And, by extension, your valves, couplings, etc will be wrong, too. Sorry.

Ya, apparently all the newer Igloos have a larger spigot opening (7/8"), according to this thread:


https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/problems-converting-cooler-mash-tun-360896/


Going to try the gaskets as recommended there.

 

[DurtyChemist]

Do these still cost ~$90 to build?

 

[msa8967]

Do these still cost ~$90 to build?

Depends on where you buy your stuff. I bought my 48 quart cooler off of Craig's list for $10 and the remaining hardware from Menards under $30. However, this is using a stainless steel braid from a water supply line hose. I have sewn some braid covers from voile cloth to help with filter the wort from the grain. I secure the open end with a zip tie and I have never had a stuck mash with this system.

 

[DurtyChemist]

Depends on where you buy your stuff. I bought my 48 quart cooler off of Craig's list for $10 and the remaining hardware from Menards under $30. However, this is using a stainless steel braid from a water supply line hose. I have sewn some braid covers from voile cloth to help with filter the wort from the grain. I secure the open end with a zip tie and I have never had a stuck mash with this system.

1.25 qt/lb? Have you tyied a 25 pound grain bill?

 

[Wingnutt73]

Wow nice job.

 

[Tutsbrew]

I didn't read all 260 plus posts so forgive me if this was already addressed. If so, please re-direct me accordingly.

I purchased a round 10 gallon Home Depot cooler today, just like shown in the OP and various other locations showing the same cooler for this type of build.

...Am I the first one to get a cooler with the spigot hole off center (low) in the exterior circular spigot indentation thus not allowing 5/8 SS fender washers to sit properly? I measured it, the space between the male-male adapter (that the ball valve screws onto) when it is level (perpendicular to cooler walls) is 1/4". The bottom of the 5/8 SS fender washer extends another 1/8" or so past the indented area...

If I were to place a straight-on photo of it you'd see the circular indentation area of the orange outer wall for the spigot. Then you'd notice the hole for the spigot low (off center) by over 1/8" from the center of the indentation.

I'm going to try various ways to shave off the eighth inch plus or so of the three washers, the dremel was a joke in that regard.

Anyone else find such a dilemma?

 

[Tutsbrew]

I just finished mine, and had first tried to get these parts, unsuccessfully, at Home Depot.

The problem is that you need a washer with a 5/8" hole, and a maximum outside diameter of not much more than 1", or it won't fit on the inside of the cooler (the spout hole is close to the bottom). And it has to be pretty rigid and thick just to do its job of holding the washer down tight. I don't know if "fender washer" specifically means something with that small outside to inside diameter ratio and still fairly thick... but if it does, then you need a fender washer.

Other people with access to shop tools have started with a flat washer and have drilled the central hole larger.

Others have mentioned bargainfittings.com, which has the washers and your o-rings. And these parts are a lot easier to find on bargainfittings.com than on McMaster Carr's website. That's what I'd do if your local option doesn't pan out.

...Wish I'da read this post before spending $ at Home Depot...

 

[DurtyChemist]

...Wish I'da read this post before spending $ at Home Depot...

Should have read some of the other pages.

 

[Tutsbrew]

Should have read some of the other pages.

Yup, more than the ones I did...

 

[Trippel-A]

...Wish I'da read this post before spending $ at Home Depot...

I don't know. Your problem sounds a little worse. I had more than 1/4" between the bottom of the spigot hole and the bottom of the cooler. That is a bummer. Were you able to shave off part of the washer?

 

[DurtyChemist]

Yup, more than the ones I did...

This is why I've decided to buy one but I totally understand building it. Sucks you missed out but it appears that a few more washers works.

 

[GrizzAndFish]

You know the old "measure twice, cut once" adage? I should've listened to that. I got a 48 qt "Dr Pepper" branded Igloo cooler at a yard sale (which is pretty sweet) and went straight to HD without checking the size of the spigot/hole on my cooler. I bought all 3/8" brass, the hole appears to be 1/2". I guess I get to test their return policy tomorrow.

 

[Trippel-A]

You know the old "measure twice, cut once" adage? I should've listened to that. I got a 48 qt "Dr Pepper" branded Igloo cooler at a yard sale (which is pretty sweet) and went straight to HD without checking the size of the spigot/hole on my cooler. I bought all 3/8" brass, the hole appears to be 1/2". I guess I get to test their return policy tomorrow.

I first bought most of the parts, including the coolers, at HD before I did the math and realized that with a promotion that Northern Brewer was running, I was better off buying it all through them. Returned everything to HD the same day. No problem.

 

[bredle]

I followed the OP directions, and had no problems. I haven't brewed AG yet, but my first shipment of grains is on it's way and I have a no leak/inexpensive tun.

Thanks for the great directions!

 

[NTXBrauer]

Nice job, looks identical to mine, and everyone here who followed the simple instructions. (A huge shout out to FlyGuy!! Thanks again for your detailed post, that is still benefiting brewers 6 1/2 years later.)

If you have not done so already, you should fill your MT (at least 1/2 full) with mash temp water, seal it up and let it sit for an hour or so. This is the best way to determine if you have any leaks. If you do, you can add an additional washer to the outside which should firm up the seal. (Just as a precautionary step.) In reading through the posts on this thread, it appears that a few found a leak when mashing their first AG, which just leads to something additional to clean up after brewing. Good luck on your first AG batch.

 

[FuzzeWuzze]

I followed the OP directions, and had no problems. I haven't brewed AG yet, but my first shipment of grains is on it's way and I have a no leak/inexpensive tun.

Thanks for the great directions!

I dont know how full you filled it to leak test it, but i suggest filling it to the brim with water.

I found when i put mine together that it didnt leak until i hit about the 6 gallon mark, then the weight of the water caused it to leak a bit out behind the washers.

I'd hate for you to fill it up with grains and then realize it leaks when totally full.

 

[Bobby_M]

I'll go even further. The first thing you should do when adding a DIY bulkhead to a cooler is drill a 1/8" weep hole in the bottom outside skin, right under the drain area. I've seen a LOT of coolers come here that were like 5 pounds too heavy when empty because the interior walls were half full of the most rancid liquid you've ever smelled. This is especially true for people that end up with gaskets or orings on the outside of the cooler.

The weep hole doesn't stop leaks but rather they show you the leak upon first use rather than after 10 brews.

 

[AnOldUR]