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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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Does anyone have a link for instructions that are this detailed ( part lists and step instructions) for a coppers manifold as described in " how to brew" instead of a braid, I don't feel like reading all these pages to try to find out
 
hoops_hops said:
Does anyone have a link for instructions that are this detailed ( part lists and step instructions) for a coppers manifold as described in " how to brew" instead of a braid, I don't feel like reading all these pages to try to find out

Go to a HW store or Home Depot and talk to someone who seems like they have a clue. Tell them you want to make a copper manifold. In general plumbing they use manifolds, too, they just don't cut holes or slits in the pipe.

Its just pipe, couplers, and a threaded piece to go on the bulkhead. There are hundreds of pictures, threads,etc here. Sometimes you just gotta jump in with both feet.
 
tre9er said:
Go to a HW store or Home Depot and talk to someone who seems like they have a clue. Tell them you want to make a copper manifold. In general plumbing they use manifolds, too, they just don't cut holes or slits in the pipe.

Its just pipe, couplers, and a threaded piece to go on the bulkhead. There are hundreds of pictures, threads,etc here. Sometimes you just gotta jump in with both feet.

You could even take your cooler with you and explain that the manifold needs to be edge-to-edge and also have center sections, all connected.
 
Buying everything from home depot would have this run 125 dollars for me.

I guess thats still cheaper than any of the sites you can get em from.
 
I just built another one for about $50. My local Lowe's had the 10 gal Rubbermaid on clearance for $28. The braid and hardware ran about $20. I built my first one for a lot less. I found a 10 Igloo cooler at a garage sale that had a crack in it. I got if for a buck and fiberglassed the crack and added the hardware.

If you are patient and look for deals you can do this really cheaply.
 
Wow Idk why my home depot has everything so expensive. All I did was use the list on the original post and looked up the prices online. I did find a 10 gallon cooler at home depot for 44 which cut the cost by 20. But thats still 100 dollars :/
 
I built my 10 gal with the braid hose and apparently I was too vigorous with the mash paddle. I crushed my hose and my mash kept getting stuck. I dumped it into my old 5 gal to finish it off. I replaced it today with another hose do I could brew today but I guess I'm going to pick up a false bottom. Anyone using the jaybird for a 10 gal?

image-2654789193.jpg
 
socalbrewer1796 said:
Has anyone ran into a problem when installing this set up to a Coleman five gal. It has a weird shape for spigot and washer don't seat well

Yes, does your valve screw out leaving an insert through the cooler wall? Mine did. I left that piece installed and sanded the inside of it smooth until a pipe would fit snugly through it.
 
I bought the 10 gallon Igloo cooler, instead of the Rubbermaid.

Do they both use the same parts listed here, or will I need different parts?
 
grimstuff said:
Mine warped on the first batch right after I poured the strike water in (~170 F). There were creaks and cracking sounds coming from the cooler, so I assume the inner liner was expanding and just started popping out with no where else to go. Now its a permanent feature of the cooler. But like i said, no problems whatsoever. If it lasts a few years, I'd say that's pretty good for a $40 investment. I can just pop out the valve and braid and start with a new cooler when the time comes.

I'm glad to hear and see that I'm not the only one with a warped cool. Mine just happened today on my second mash with this set up. I hope I can get a few uses out of it before buying a new one. :)
 
Irish13 said:
I'm glad to hear and see that I'm not the only one with a warped cool. Mine just happened today on my second mash with this set up. I hope I can get a few uses out of it before buying a new one. :)

Mine has been warped over a year and the one before that was longer. The only reason I had to make a second one is because I bumped my valve pretty hard a created a 3 inch crack on the inside.. :mug:

Edit: my second one was from the thrift store.. $5..
 
Same here, both my 5Gallon and 10 Gallon MT's have warped on the inside. It pretty much happened the first time I ever used them and they've been that way since. They still work fine though. As long as the false bottom continues to be able to fit into it.
 
I just built another one for about $50. My local Lowe's had the 10 gal Rubbermaid on clearance for $28. The braid and hardware ran about $20. I built my first one for a lot less. I found a 10 Igloo cooler at a garage sale that had a crack in it. I got if for a buck and fiberglassed the crack and added the hardware.

If you are patient and look for deals you can do this really cheaply.

I should start looking to see if they have these on sale near me. I found a used one on Craigslist for about that clearance price. Guess I'd rather get new if I can find for a similar price.
 
I bought the 10 gallon Igloo cooler, instead of the Rubbermaid.

Do they both use the same parts listed here, or will I need different parts?

I use a 10g Igloo. Parts listed worked fine for me but I had to add a few washer to the front for the handle to clear.
 
Just made my MLT yesterday. Followed the original instructions to the t. No leaks. Pictures were a big help. Thank!
 
Not sure if anyone still checks this thread but here goes.

Does anyone know if a flat washer can replace the 5/8 SS fender washer?
 
I'm not sure if a standard flat washer will except the brass or stainless nipple through it while still being large enough to "plug" the opening up.
 
I'm not sure if I posted this in here before but I bought the weld-less bulkhead and 3 piece valve from brewhardware.com to make mine and didn't need any washers or use the original rubber washer. Works like a charm
 
Hi all,

I am trying to create MLT from 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. I cannot completely fasten the female brass adapter (Watts A-298) to the 3/8'' MIP brass nipple (Watts A-786)

I have a gap between these two. It looks similar to the FlyGuy's picture:

7346-6_Assemble_Inner_r.jpg


But on one of the last pictures he does not seem to have this gap anymore when he added external parts

7346-10_Braid_in_Cooler_r.jpg


How to screw this so I do not have that gap between A-298 and SS washer?
I assume that I do not just pull the whole thing outside because the flat part of Watts A-786 will be out of the cooler and I would be unable to secure it in place.

Thanks.
 
sarajevskopivo said:
Hi all,

I am trying to create MLT from 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. I cannot completely fasten the female brass adapter (Watts A-298) to the 3/8'' MIP brass nipple (Watts A-786)

I have a gap between these two. It looks similar to the FlyGuy's picture:

But on one of the last pictures he does not seem to have this gap anymore when he added external parts

How to screw this so I do not have that gap between A-298 and SS washer?
I assume that I do not just pull the whole thing outside because the flat part of Watts A-786 will be out of the cooler and I would be unable to secure it in place.

Thanks.

You will probably have to use multiple ss washers to make up the gap. If memory serves me I used something like 3-4 washers and it seals perfectly.
 
sarajevskopivo said:
So I have to use 3-4 SS washers inside and 3-4 outside? Thanks a lot.

I only used them on the outside. one on the inside if I remember correctly I would take a look but it is outside in my garage.
 
I just did this using 3 SS washers outside plus 1 ss inside. Leaks a few drops a minute or so but I think my cooler has a thinner wall so I will need to get more washers to make up for the lost thickness.

Mine is a blue Lowe's igloo cooler.
 
So if there is only one washer inside, do you move the washer all the way?
I am asking this because I was not able to screw Watts-298 all the way to the washer. There is a gap (you can see it on the first picture in my first post) between Watts-298 and washer where you can see the teflon tape.
I do not know how you were able to screw it all the way to the washer.
 
I don't know what you mean by 'move the washer all the way'.

Basically you need enough washers so that you can screw it tight, it doesn't really matter too much whether they're inside or outside as long as you can screw the inside barb on so that you have some good force against the cooler wall.. Maybe the brass nipple you got is a little long for your cooler so you need a lot of washers. It's kind of hard to tell what's going on though without actual pictures... it'd also help if you call them 'nipple' and 'hose barb' instead of 'Watts 298'.
 
With my build, the initial washers that I bought didn't fit over the unthreaded part of the nipple. This caused the nipple to move forward and backward. I had to buy different washers that fit over they unthreaded portion of the nipple (slightly larger inside diameter). Both washers were sold as the same size, but the inside diameters varied. This allowed me to tighten everything properly with no leaks.

I don't completely understand your issue, but I thought this might help.
 
barbu.jpg


I marked on the picture where the teflon tape is still visible. The washer cannot go any further. It reached the flat middle. And I cannot screw the nipple further either. All the people seem to have just one washer on the pictures. So I am confused as to why it is not working for me and what I need to do.
 
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