Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[jimlin]

here are a couple shots of the parts loosely put together. note the white plastic and black rubber washer from the original spigot setup. the only thing missing in these pics is the O ring that will go between the fender washer and the outer wall of the cooler. thinking I will screw everything together, teflon tape, etc. and dump in some hot water to see if I get any leaks. If I get a leak I may need to search for a large (3/4") stainless or brass fender washer for the inside.

 

[jimlin]

here's the shot with the rubber washer (original from the cooler) on the correct side. Using the cooler's existing plastic "washer" (seeing that I don't have a fender washer that fits yet) between rubber washer and the brass fitting. Going to tighten this thing up later this weekend and test for leaks. If it leaks I'll need to find a SS or brass fender washer big enough to fit over the 1/2 nipple.

 

[kevin123]

Thanks FlyGuy!

I have read this entire thread on and off for the past 3 days but I knew from the start I wanted to do this and get into all grain.

I picked up all the fittings for around $27 bucks and am using some Amazon credit I had left to get the Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler shipped to me overnight for around $4 total.

So tomorrow for a little more than $30 from my pocket I should have one of these bad boys ready to go.

I am using all the parts recommended in the original post with the exception of an additional barb with a plug at the end for the stainless braid. I didn't have any problems finding all the parts...all fittings from Lowe's (awesome having the part numbers!), the stainless fender washer from a local bolt shop for 50 cents, the lhbs had all stainless worm clamps for 1.50 ea and I picked up a couple o-rings for free at the local o-ring store!

Woo-Hoo! If all goes well I will be brewing my first all-grainer on Friday! Thanks again!

 

[Jsmith82]

What would be the best way to clean this converted mash tun? I used hot soapy water thus far and it seemed like it was working fine.. I haven't done an all ag in about a month and we're gearing up to brew tomorrow night, I opened my cooler and WHOOMF! Big sour smell to the face!

It looks clean, I scrubbed it out the last time we used it, I sanitized afterwards... Is there an additional step I'm missing here? Any recommendations on what I could soak in this overnight to help remove that sour smell?

 

[Guidry]

Ok, I've gone thru all 100+ pages on my phone and need a verdict. Besides zip ties, what are some other specific methods that have been used successfully to secure the SS mesh to the "tube" or pipe. I've seen reference to marine grade SS clamps. Would a place like West Marine have these? Any idea about automotive type clamps?

 

[barrooze]

What would be the best way to clean this converted mash tun? I used hot soapy water thus far and it seemed like it was working fine.. I haven't done an all ag in about a month and we're gearing up to brew tomorrow night, I opened my cooler and WHOOMF! Big sour smell to the face!

It looks clean, I scrubbed it out the last time we used it, I sanitized afterwards... Is there an additional step I'm missing here? Any recommendations on what I could soak in this overnight to help remove that sour smell?

I would try baking soda. Also, I just use dish detergent to clean my cooler after a brew session. I've noticed musty smells sometimes from my tun, but I keep it in the garage where it can easily reach over 120F. If it stinks before a brew session, I just wash it again and put a baking soda solution in there the night before and thoroughly rinse it out prior to mashing. Always has worked for me.

 

[barrooze]

Ok, I've gone thru all 100+ pages on my phone and need a verdict. Besides zip ties, what are some other specific methods that have been used successfully to secure the SS mesh to the "tube" or pipe. I've seen reference to marine grade SS clamps. Would a place like West Marine have these? Any idea about automotive type clamps?

Worm clamps work very well. Here's whatvthey are called at WM: BREEZE BOOSTER
300-Series Stainless Steel Hose Clamps

 

[Guidry]

BINGO!! Got'em! This is finally working out. Pics coming soon!

 

[bigbeergeek]

What would be the best way to clean this converted mash tun? I used hot soapy water thus far and it seemed like it was working fine.. I haven't done an all ag in about a month and we're gearing up to brew tomorrow night, I opened my cooler and WHOOMF! Big sour smell to the face!

It looks clean, I scrubbed it out the last time we used it, I sanitized afterwards... Is there an additional step I'm missing here? Any recommendations on what I could soak in this overnight to help remove that sour smell?

I used bleach/water, took the smell out right away. The trick to never letting this happen again: let the mash tun air dry overnight, open, upside-down. You have to store it bone dry or else the nasties will return.

 

[kevin123]

Just put mine together...no leaks yet! It took about 30 minutes...I did have a hard time taking the tubing out of the ss braid. I pushed and pushed with some needle nose pliers to no avail. Ended up soaking it in a bowl of boiling water for about 3 minutes...I was able to pull it off quite easily (while pushing against the pliers to keep the braid compressed.) If I didn't have the trouble with the braid this thing would have been together in 5-10 minutes tops. Thanks again and I can't wait to do my first all grain batch tomorrow!

 

[Jsmith82]

I would try baking soda. Also, I just use dish detergent to clean my cooler after a brew session. I've noticed musty smells sometimes from my tun, but I keep it in the garage where it can easily reach over 120F. If it stinks before a brew session, I just wash it again and put a baking soda solution in there the night before and thoroughly rinse it out prior to mashing. Always has worked for me.

I scrubbed it out again last night, rinsed, then dumped in some baking soda and filled it about half way up with hot water, ran a bit through the spout, then put the lid on and went to bed.

Got up this morning, dumped the water out and stuck my head in for a big whiff, smelled fine, faintly sweet like malt haha.. Got it sitting lid off upside down on a towel propped up an inch in my kitchen drying out today, looks like all is good for tonight.

Thanks for the advice guys, appreciate it!

 

[barrooze]

Excellent! Have a great brew!

 

[bwomp313]

Sorry I didn't read through the thread and this has probably been answered, but if I'm using a false bottom, are all the parts the same? (with the exception of the braid of course).

 

[bottlebomber]

Sorry I didn't read through the thread and this has probably been answered, but if I'm using a false bottom, are all the parts the same? (with the exception of the braid of course).

Im waiting to see the answer too, I have my cooler on order, and I've settled on a false bottom rather than messing with the braid based on people feedback about the braid not lasting

 

[PartTimeJedi]

So I just made this today. Had some issues with leaking even though I followed the directions to the T. Ended up adding like 4 O-rings to the outside in between the washers and cooler and removing the washer on the inside and adding an O-ring in between the cooler seal and the barb adapter and it seemed to solve the problem.

Only thing is I am scared to use it in case for some reason its not leaking due to some fluke. I'm afraid it will start leaking as soon as I start mashing. Would it be a good idea to get some of that silicone caulking to caulk up the area around the outside where the seal is?

 

[smagee]

Mine had leaking issues too, so I slathered it with the silicone caulk both inside and out. I see no reason why you shouldn't, simply for peace of mind.

 

[jimlin]

any particular type of caulk?? I just tested mine, and sure nuff got a leak. Granted, I tried using the existing rubber gasket that was in the cooler (the cooler is ancient) with it between the SS fender washer and the inner wall. Probably should have used a newer washer. When I pull it apart, I suppose I should use some caulk too, just to be safe.

removed the inside brass bard from the nipple. The rubber gasket from the cooler appears to be still in good shape. I applied GE Silicone II bioseal (100% silicone, not for surfaces exceeding 400° F) to the nipple, innder and outer walls of the cooler, the gasket, and tightened. Wait and see.

 

[bwomp313]

What kind of caulk do you use? Is there like a heat resistant, food save caulk? And also, if I'm going to use a false bottom, do I get all the same parts listed minus the braid?

 

[jimlin]

Yeah, I guess I jumped the gun before researching food grade options. Letting mine cure now, but curious if I need to dismantle again and remove any of the GE silicone I can.

Do a search for "food grade silicone". I quickly saw one that was high temp (500°) so I'm guessing there are probably more options

http://www.etundra.com/Red_High_Tem..._product&cvsfa=2832&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3336353037

But if you go to that link and click on "Learn More" downloading the info sheet, there's still a lot of questionable things listed, so perhaps someone in the know can chime in here

 

[jimlin]

I dismantled everything, removed the remnants of the yellow teflon tape (oops, gas line tape?) and scraped/cleaned off as much of the silicone as I could. Looked like I got it all.

Used the white (red container) teflon tape, wrapped it around the threads 3 times (didn't use much the first time). Also, I found the white plastic piece that covered the original rubber gasket in the cooler. So now the inside has the gasket agains the cooler wall, the plastic cover over the gasket (protecting it from over tightening against the rubber with the SS washer), and then the SS washer. Also used the proper brass nipple (I had originally used a shorter one, and only one fender washer on the outside), and added two more fender washers to the outside to fit. Re-assembled and presto... no leaks!!

Hopefully brewing my first AG batch this weekend!

 

[bottlebomber]

Success. Thanks FlyGuy. Im not a real DoItYourselfer, not because im not handy or don't want to, but because I frankly don't have TIME to do a lot of these projects. I took this one mainly because the stainless braid seems to be a lot better of a filter than a false bottom that can get grain around and underneath it. This one was a breeze.

With all the Watts part numbers nicely included, it took me about 10 minutes in Home Depot to find what I needed. It cost about 82 dollars for everything (things are more expensive that when this thread was started).
It took me maybe 10 minutes to put it together. Doesn't leak a drop. It is a little annoying having so much play on the valve, I think its coming mostly from the Rubbermaid gasket. I think if you could find a wider thinner gasket that could be clamped flush against the inside wall of the cooler you could make it tight.
Im excited to start using this. BIAB was sucking bad for me.

 

[MongoloidMormon]

I followed these instructions to a T and had no luck getting everything tight. I had to go back to home depot and get 3 additional washers in order to put any pressure on the stock gasket. I'm still not sure what the additional black o-ring does. Also, my handle spins round, but so far it seems to be tightly sealed. Has anyone else needed additional washers with the standard Home Depot cooler?

 

[bottlebomber]

I followed these instructions to a T and had no luck getting everything tight. I had to go back to home depot and get 3 additional washers in order to put any pressure on the stock gasket. I'm still not sure what the additional black o-ring does. Also, my handle spins round, but so far it seems to be tightly sealed. Has anyone else needed additional washers with the standard Home Depot cooler?

If you read back, it seems a lot of people have needed additional washers. I didn't, if fact I used 1 less. Maybe people are grabbing different length nipples. I think the stock gasket is the weak link in this build. Its just not designed to have a lot of pressure on it. If I could find a thick, flat rubber spacer I think everything could be tightened properly. I couldn't determine what the black o ring was for either, all the sealing is coming from the inside of the cooler. I ended up using a cheap 5/8 garden hose gasket on the outside instead of the black gasket, which is probably why I used one less washer...

 

[Aschecte]

Just did this build and I'm gonna jump on the band waggon....... way loose I'm figuring it's the nipple length I would add more washers but the 5/8 ss washers fit over the thread of the nipple but wont slide over the flat part ( I guess I could also sand it down to accept the washer ). That and it definatly needs some better gasketing I can feel already that stock washer is not gonna make it for the long run. What was everyone elses solution shorter nipple ? more gasket material?

 

[Aschecte]

Just did this build and I'm gonna jump on the band waggon....... way loose I'm figuring it's the nipple length I would add more washers but the 5/8 ss washers fit over the thread of the nipple but wont slide over the flat part ( I guess I could also sand it down to accept the washer ). That and it definatly needs some better gasketing I can feel already that stock washer is not gonna make it for the long run. What was everyone elses solution shorter nipple ? more gasket material?

ok I just fixed it 100% heres the deal if you use a home depot rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler don't use the3/8 x 11/2 nipple use a 3/8 x close nipple and 1 ss washer inside with the original gasket then on the outside use the 5/8 o-ring and only 2 ss washers. follow all other directions this now works absolutely awesome been holding temp and volume not even a slight dribble !!!

 

[stbnj]

I just used my mash tun again after replacing the fake ss braid from Home Depot with a real stainless steel braid and wow what a difference. Definitely make sure you get the right one the first time.

 

[bottlebomber]

I just used my mash tun again after replacing the fake ss braid from Home Depot with a real stainless steel braid and wow what a difference. Definitely make sure you get the right one the first time.

Do you mean you grabbed the fake poly stuff the first time? I grabbed one of those, because they were displayed much more prominently than the real ones, but luckily noticed that it wasn't SS and grabbed the real one

 

[Cubslover]

Would a 24" piece of braid from a 5/8" water heater supply line do the trick here?

 

[bottlebomber]

Would a 24" piece of braid from a 5/8" water heater supply line do the trick here?

That's exactly what is needed. It calls for at least a 12, I did a 20. A 24 would just do a half curl in the bottom and give you more drain. Just remember to weight the end down good with something you can hose clamp in. Anything would work

 

[Cosper123]

Yeah I can't get a tight seal on it either. And the o-ring on the outside seems like very poor placement. If you're preventing a leak there then it's getting into the innards of the chest where that foam crap is. That can't be good for you. I'm thinking preventing it from seaping from the inside would be better.