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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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Where is everyone getting the 10 gallon round coolers now? Does HD still sell them? I searched their website and nothing showed up.
 
Where is everyone getting the 10 gallon round coolers now? Does HD still sell them? I searched their website and nothing showed up.

Yes indeed! I got mine at Home Depot. But I didn't see them online either. The 5 gal ones were $18 and the 10 gal were $34.

Walmart might have them too, but I'v never checked.
 
If i get the all the fittings from barginfittings.com does anyone know what parts I need for the 10 gallon HD cooler? I picked up the cooler at lunch. Does the kit come with enough washers to bring the spicket out far enough to turn?
 
Yes indeed! I got mine at Home Depot. But I didn't see them online either. The 5 gal ones were $18 and the 10 gal were $34.

Walmart might have them too, but I'v never checked.

My HD only had the 5 gallon version. Ace Hardware had the Rubbermaid 10 gallon version for $49 and the Igloo (yellow) 10 gallon version for $59. I went with Rubbermaid. :D
 
My HD only had the 5 gallon version. Ace Hardware had the Rubbermaid 10 gallon version for $49 and the Igloo (yellow) 10 gallon version for $59. I went with Rubbermaid. :D

Mines a Rubbermaid, but has a nasty ole' Home Depot print on the side. $59! Wow.... but I think when I bought mine they were on sale.
 
My local HD in Encinitas had them in the Outdoor Garden area. Had about 3 or 4 of them at the time.
 
I noticed both sizes at my local HD in the front on the way out the doors. I have two of these 10-gal Coleman Beverage Coolers. Round may be better, but these work great and are very thick. They also have markings inside for both gallons and liters.
DSC_2198.jpg
 
Finally got mine straightened out. The 1.5in nipple was too big for the cooler so I went down to the 785, which is labeled "close." I took that to mean it's the smallest nipple they can make and still have the threads on each side. Then I tested and had a leak so I took the inside washer and bent it with a hammer to better fit the shape of the cooler. No leaks!

Mash%20Tun%202010-10-02%20003.JPG
Mash%20Tun%202010-10-02%20004.JPG
 
I just bought a box of 5/8" SS fender washers (had to buy wholesale). If anybody needs one, just send me a message and I am more than happy to send you one via snail mail.
 
I am trying to put one of these together and am having fits finding the appropriate vinyl tubing and o-ring.
Can't seem to find a heat resistant o-ring. Folks at HD/Lowe's think that a standard o-ring is meant to withstand temps up to ~130F.
Is the standard vinyl tubing in the plumbing isle (listed not for ice makers) the "food grade" tubing that has been referred to here?
The specs state that this tubing is rated for temps up to 175F.
TIA for any input.
 
I am trying to put one of these together and am having fits finding the appropriate vinyl tubing and o-ring.
Can't seem to find a heat resistant o-ring. Folks at HD/Lowe's think that a standard o-ring is meant to withstand temps up to ~130F.
Is the standard vinyl tubing in the plumbing isle (listed not for ice makers) the "food grade" tubing that has been referred to here?
The specs state that this tubing is rated for temps up to 175F.
TIA for any input.

You don't need vinyl tubing. That was an old design that caused a lot of problems for some people and I no longer recommend using it.

Regarding the o-ring, any o-ring that can be used on a hot water faucet will do. The ones I bought said high-temp rated on them, but I suspect that most of the o-rings in the plumbing section can be used (just ask if it is 'hot water' safe, and if it is, you are golden).

Cheers! :mug:
 
Thanks for the info, FlyGuy, and thanks for coming up with this design and providing so much support to those of us trying to put together an AG rig.

I saw something about this type of setup having problems if used with an immersion chiller as the cold break will clog the braided line, has anyone had a problem with that?
 
Thanks for the info, FlyGuy, and thanks for coming up with this design and providing so much support to those of us trying to put together an AG rig.

I saw something about this type of setup having problems if used with an immersion chiller as the cold break will clog the braided line, has anyone had a problem with that?

You're getting your steps mixed up. Your immersion chiller shouldn't be put into the mash. I could see the cold break clogging up a plate chiller, if that's what you meant.
 
I'm trying to do this with a ten gallon Igloo and its not quite working. the nipple fits just so so theres no room for a rubber gasket, and since the nipple has the smooth center area with no threading I cant tighten up from both ends for a clean seal. I bought some DAT silicone sealant and will hopefully get it to work with that.

Another option could be to buy a lot of flat washers for the outside of the cooler to force a tight fit.
 
another qustion is-- how important is it that the nut I am using inside be stainless? Im pretty sure it is but not 100%. I figured i'd do a few batches and look for any color change or corrosion/rusting etc.
 
Cripes, 126 pages! Well, I am going to start going through this but could I ask a simple question, which I'm sure must have been addressed somewhere in here, is there any concerns using such a narrow and deep cooler rather than a more traditional rectangular shaped one? Just seems the grain bed would be quite thick and hard to mix as compared with a regular rectangular cooler.

I've never done all grain yet but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I give it a shot. I'm leaning toward doing a partial mash first.

Thanks
 
I'm trying to do this with a ten gallon Igloo and its not quite working. the nipple fits just so so theres no room for a rubber gasket, and since the nipple has the smooth center area with no threading I cant tighten up from both ends for a clean seal. I bought some DAT silicone sealant and will hopefully get it to work with that.

Another option could be to buy a lot of flat washers for the outside of the cooler to force a tight fit.

Yep, just buy lots of flat washers for the outside and crank er' tight! :fro:
 
another qustion is-- how important is it that the nut I am using inside be stainless? Im pretty sure it is but not 100%. I figured i'd do a few batches and look for any color change or corrosion/rusting etc.

If you chose to not use a SS nut or washer on the inside, make sure that it is lead free. For the obvioius reason that lead is poisionous to humans, it is also poisionous to yeast.
 
Cripes, 126 pages! Well, I am going to start going through this but could I ask a simple question, which I'm sure must have been addressed somewhere in here, is there any concerns using such a narrow and deep cooler rather than a more traditional rectangular shaped one? Just seems the grain bed would be quite thick and hard to mix as compared with a regular rectangular cooler.

I've never done all grain yet but I'm trying to get as much info as possible before I give it a shot. I'm leaning toward doing a partial mash first.

Thanks

Either cooler works. It all depends on what is available to you. Lots of brewers use the rectangular cooler with no ill effects. Just about the only draw back that I can see for using the rectangular cooler is needing more material to make a manifold once you upgrade, and you will, from the braided hose to a slotted manifold.
 
Not sure if this has been mentioned already but I used a silicone baby bottle nipple for the "o-ring" on the inside of a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler. Simply cut off the nipple part about a 1/4" or so above the flange part. The remaining portion of the nipple fits perfectly into the hole from the inside while the flange fits perfectly against the inside wall of the cooler behind the SS nut. My wife recommended it while I had the cooler sitting on the living room floor trying to figure out how to get the stupid o-ring that came with the kit to work. Sometimes non-beer drinkers have great ideas :)
 
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