Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

[Zamial]

1st off thanks for the great DIY. Mine is done and it seems to not leak. I followed the instructions and parts in the OP and it was all pretty straight forward.

I may end up swapping out the nipple for 1 that is the next size smaller in length. While it does not leak the "looseness" of the ball valve does have me concerned. I understand that it does not need to be crushed on but it seems loose and scary...lol. We will see as it is "testing" now.

:rockin:

UPDATE: It is indeed leaking, very slow and very minor (under pressure from the heat inside). Unfortunately I have the hardware as tight as it will go. I have decided that I will try the 1 1/4 brass nipple vs the 1 1/2 as per the OP.

If the hardware store does not have 1 1/4 then I will be headed over to get 2-3 more washers to aid in the seal. I will report back!

 

[DrawTap88]

UPDATE: It is indeed leaking, very slow and very minor (under pressure from the heat inside). Unfortunately I have the hardware as tight as it will go. I have decided that I will try the 1 1/4 brass nipple vs the 1 1/2 as per the OP.

If the hardware store does not have 1 1/4 then I will be headed over to get 2-3 more washers to aid in the seal. I will report back!

Placing an O-ring on the inside of the tun between the wall of the cooler and the SS washer could be a cheaper fix.

 

[Zamial]

Placing an O-ring on the inside of the tun between the wall of the cooler and the SS washer could be a cheaper fix.

Thanks for that suggestion. I am using the white rubber ring that was with the cooler originally with a ss washer on the inside.(rubber ring against the cooler wall) On the outside I have a neoprene washer, that I had to cut down just a bit but fits perfectly, w/ 3 ss washers.

My contention is if I have to disassemble and reassemble anyway (even to put on an o-ring) I may as well try a slightly smaller nipple. I believe the nipple will "snug up" the fittings so they do not spin quite so easily vs. the o ring that will probably not have this effect.

I will report back! :rockin:

 

[DrawTap88]

My whole set up spins, but doesn't leak.

Now, it doesn't spin freely. It takes a little bit of effort to get it to turn, but it still turns. It doesn't rotate or spin when I open the valve to collect my runnings.

Also, over tightening the fitings could cause them to break, so a little spinage isn't a bad thing.

 

[jvh261]

add another to the flyguy 10-gal igloo conversion club. Just finished my new MLT a bit ago. Filled it up. No leaks yet.

Only prob I have is that the nut on the top of the ball valve keeps coming loose. Hopefully its just a bad nut that I can easily replace and not an issue with the valve itself. I'd really hate to take this thing apart right after I got it together.

Anyway...thanks to all of the contributors in this epic thread. Can't wait to brew with this thing.

 

[Zamial]

Well the original OP DIY was good but I had better success with the 1 1/4 nipple. (I used: 3/8 x 3/8 hex nipple) I have a decent fit, the ball valve will turn but not easily, and no leaks.

I also picked up the 1/2 x 3/8 inch barbs vs. the 3/8 x 3/8. Just as an FYI to anyone interested I do highly suggest the 1/2 x 3/8 barbs as you will get slightly faster flow and it will be more uniform with all 1/2 tubing should you ever build a keggle. These also fit MUCH better in the SS braid IMO.

Thanks, Fly Guy for an excellent DIY!

Update 2: brew day tested and this thing is a BEAST!!!. 1st AG batch and it was smoother than silk.

 

[jrmorrill]

I just picked up all the parts for this thing! I accidentally picked up a polymer braid hose but I caught it before I cut it up. Once I return this thing and get a real steel braid I'm ready to roll!

 

[Baum604]

Just finished this setup yesterday, thanks Flyguy. Went to Fastenal and they had the SS washers. I bought 5/8" washers but had to file out the center just a little bit, but went well. I did make a change however, instead of using a steel braid, I made a false bottom.

 

[DustBow]

Quick question for those using 3/8 fittings and the cooler's original gasket/seal:

Does the gasket have to sit on the flat part of the nipple for the best possible seal? Or is it ok for it to sit on the threads a bit?

I'm afraid if I keep the gasket totally on the flat part of the nipple that not enough of the nipple will come thru to the outside of the cooler. Then I won't be able to close the ball valve all the way because the handle will be too close & hit the side of the cooler.
I'm using a 1.5" nipple which is what most people seem to have success with so maybe the gasket placement on the nipple isn't that important.
I just want to get it right the first time so I don't have to assemble and disassemble a bunch of times.

thanks
--Dusty

 

[DrawTap88]

Pretty sure that mine is sitting on the threads a little bit, which caused it to leak. I remedied that by inserting an O-ring between the washer and the inside of the cooler.

I also didn't have a whole lot of threads left to get the nipple on after adding the O-ring, but it's also not leaking and holding temp. well. My handle hits the side of the cooler when closed, but with 3 washers on the outside it is able to close. Hope that helps.

 

[DustBow]

So you put an o-ring in between the inside washer and the cooler gasket? Or between the gasket and the cooler wall? Or you scrapped the cooler gasket in favor of a bigger o-ring?

 

[DrawTap88]

So you put an o-ring in between the inside washer and the cooler gasket? Or between the gasket and the cooler wall? Or you scrapped the cooler gasket in favor of a bigger o-ring?

I still have the cooler's original gasket holding everything in place, but I added an oversized O-ring to go between the washer and cooler wall, right around where the original gasket is in place.

 

[Bricetrine]

I'm so glad I found this thread. This is my next project. Thanks!

 

[DustBow]

Finally got mine put together last night - held a couple gallons overnight w/ no leaks.
My brew buddies and I decided to "bling" it up a bit and went with all SS parts and a bazooka tube type of mash screen. Still did the whole thing for under $100.

First AG batch will be attempted this weekend!

(Anyone insulate the cooler lid? I was thinking about putting a couple holes in the very top of the cover and spraying some of that foam insulation in there. Might be overkill right now but I thought it might work out well for outside/garage winter batches - I figured the lid is probably the weak spot in term of insulation.)

 

[DrawTap88]

Haven't thought of that. Mine holds the temp well enough without it being insulated. My buddy just cut a hole right in the middle of his to stick a sparge arm in, and his held well, even with the hole.

On another note, I'm also curious as to whether or not just putting a piece of insulation on top of the grain bed (after filling with water) to hold the heat in the mash and not the dead space above the mash.

 

[johnnybrew]

...off-the-shelf components from your local hardware store work just as well, and cost far less....

FlyGuy! Your post made my life so easy - THANK YOU! I just converted a 10 gal Rubbermaid drink cooler! Had 10 gals of water in there for a few hours now and NO LEAKS! I am waiting for my false bottom to arrive and then I am all set. THANK YOU FOR THE POST!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Bdogg]

Well, after months of pondering, I finally splurged and bought the damn 10 gallon cooler. It was $110 - I could not find one in Edmonton from anywhere except parts distributors and paying to ship one here would have been even more expensive.

I am excited though. I am currently using a 40qt rectangular coleman cooler and I have trouble maintaining mash temperature AND the grain bed is very shallow- all in all, it's rudimentary and it's time for an upgrade. A good project for a day like today.

Thanks for the detailed info. Time to get to work

 

[boogyman]

(Anyone insulate the cooler lid? I was thinking about putting a couple holes in the very top of the cover and spraying some of that foam insulation in there. Might be overkill right now but I thought it might work out well for outside/garage winter batches - I figured the lid is probably the weak spot in term of insulation.)

I thought about doing that, but mine holds temp just fine without it so I never bothered.

 

[johnnybrew]

Well, after months of pondering, I finally splurged and bought the damn 10 gallon cooler. It was $110 - I could not find one in Edmonton from anywhere except parts distributors and paying to ship one here would have been even more expensive.

Not intending to throw salt on the financial wound, but if you can return your cooler, US Plastic has one that is pretty reasonable. They shipped one to me for $20, for a total price of about $65. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30855&catid=760&clickid=searchresults

 

[Zamial]

I thought about doing that, but mine holds temp just fine without it so I never bothered.

and should it ever be a problem a towel is a super cheap and super easy fix.

 

[BrownBomber]

I built mine and have ran one batch through it, works great. I used a 1/2 inch tee so I could collect from two sides incase one got clogged.

 

[Bdogg]

Not intending to throw salt on the financial wound, but if you can return your cooler, US Plastic has one that is pretty reasonable. They shipped one to me for $20, for a total price of about $65. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=30855&catid=760&clickid=searchresults

Haha well it's too late for that, I've made a mess of the thing. $40 isn't going to break the bank anyway so I'm not too concerned.

Instead of using all the washers and fittings I took apart the nozzle and fed a 5/16" hose through it. I did this by soaking the tube in hot-ish water and cutting in lengthwise about 6" and overlapping it so it would fit in the hole. Once I got the initial part through I just pulled really hard and it fed through. It's been sitting on the counter full of hot water for an hour and nothing has leaked. Even though the cross section of the tube is slightly reduced through the spout, it flows very quickly.

In short, all that was required for me was the cooler itself and about 4' of 5/16" OD vinyl tubing (Non toxic of course).

 

[Olddog]

Anybody ever try this instead of the braid? It's a bit pricier than I would like but it looks like it would solve some of the issues with the braid.

PS~ Apologies if this has been asked already, I have only read part of this thread so far.

 

[johnnybrew]

Anybody ever try this instead of the braid? It's a bit pricier than I would like but it looks like it would solve some of the issues with the braid.

PS~ Apologies if this has been asked already, I have only read part of this thread so far.

I used a false bottom instead. IMHO, a better setup in the long run.

 

[DustBow]

Anybody ever try this instead of the braid? It's a bit pricier than I would like but it looks like it would solve some of the issues with the braid.

PS~ Apologies if this has been asked already, I have only read part of this thread so far.

I installed one, I have only used it once so far but no complaints or issues during that first batch.
The connection is a 1/2" so you either have to use 1/2" fittings or a reducer - I just used a reducer on the inside to connect the tube to the nipple.

 

[DrawTap88]

Anybody ever try this instead of the braid? It's a bit pricier than I would like but it looks like it would solve some of the issues with the braid.

PS~ Apologies if this has been asked already, I have only read part of this thread so far.

Were those the ones that were collapsing under the weight of the grain and had to have a piece of wire wound around the inside? (Asking since I don't remember.)

It will take a little more effort, but why not make a false bottom out of the copper tubing? That way you can also fly sparge.

 

[johnnybrew]

Were those the ones that were collapsing under the weight of the grain and had to have a piece of wire wound around the inside? (Asking since I don't remember.)

It will take a little more effort, but why not make a false bottom out of the copper tubing? That way you can also fly sparge.

Agreed - but I would just get the stainless false bottom from a vendor like MoreBeer. For another $40 you will have an MLT that will work great for both batch and fly sparging. This type of setup should be the only MLT you will ever need - I truly expect this rig to last me a lifetime.

 

[Zamial]

Anybody ever try this instead of the braid? It's a bit pricier than I would like but it looks like it would solve some of the issues with the braid.

PS~ Apologies if this has been asked already, I have only read part of this thread so far.

What is wrong with the braid? I use the braid and it works WONDERFULLY (even with 26 lbs of wet grain on it!) The only thing I would change, as I stated not far back ago, is that I would seriously use barbs for 1/2 inch tubing and maybe the 3/8 x 3/8 hex nipple instead of the original nipple.

I am sure the false bottom would work as well but I really do not see the benefit to over-engineer or complicate this DIY. It is cheap easy and it works!

In either way Good Luck!

 

[johnnybrew]

What is wrong with the braid? I use the braid and it works WONDERFULLY (even with 26 lbs of wet grain on it!) The only thing I would change as I stated not far back ago is that I would seriously use barbs for 1/2 inch tubing and maybe the 3/8 x 3/8 hex nipple instead of the original nipple.

I am sure the false bottom would work as well but I really do not see the benefit to over-engineer or complicate this DIY. It is cheap easy and it works!

In either way Good Luck!

Ya know, if I have learned anything about brewing, it is that there is no gold standard for doing many things. Building the MLT is one of them; sparging is another; using/not using a secondary is yet again another; how to take temps of your ferm vessel is another; and the list goes on. There are many ways to skin el gato and I am a firm believer that if it works for you (if it ain't broke), then stick with it (don't fix it).

Cheers and RDWHAHB.

 

[jimbus]

I'm sure its in here in the 117 pages somewhere, but I'm assuming you could also use these fittings to convert a rectangle coleman cooler? or is there a better/different method for that