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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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So anyone know an easy way to figure out if a washer is stainless or zinc. I accidentally got my 4 stainless and 3 zinc thrown together and they are all mixed up.
 
So anyone know an easy way to figure out if a washer is stainless or zinc. I accidentally got my 4 stainless and 3 zinc thrown together and they are all mixed up.
Found a solution, used a magnet :)
 
Is a braided stainless steel faucet connector the same as what everyone is using?
This may seem dumb but I don't see how liquid is going to get inside this thing...
048643062054.jpg
 
Is a braided stainless steel faucet connector the same as what everyone is using?
This may seem dumb but I don't see how liquid is going to get inside this thing...
048643062054.jpg

Have you been back & read the conversion instructions? You don't put the faucet (or washer, etc.) adapter directly in the cooler. The idea is to just use the SS braid on the outside of the line as a filter for your grain bed. Cut off the ends, and treat it like a Chinese finger puzzle getting it off the rubber line, then follow directions per the beginning of this thread. My son & I just did a batch of big ESB yesterday, using this very conversion....worked like a charm. 73% efficiency, made a 1.060 SG.
 
That's great! - very similar to mine, but mine leaks a bit when I turn open or close the ball valve. I'll add a few washers to tighten the seal. Thanks
 
Finished up a 5 gallon version last night. I used WAY more than 3 washers on the outside, about 6-7, AND 2 on the inside. Maybe my washers were thinner? Got them from McMaster in a 50 pack, so if anyone needs any, I might sell you some :) All the other parts were exactly what was used in the original post, thanks to the OP for all the part numbers!

Did a temp test and lost 2 degrees in an hour with just hot water (117F -> 115F), so I'm happy. Also left it full overnight, came back and the water was still warm!. No leaks to be seen, so everything should be good to go this weekend for it's maiden brew :D
 
Hello AnOldUR,

I have a question if you don't mind.

You posted a photo last July, of a false bottom inside a rectangular cooler.

You used something other than PVC tubing to connect the false bottom to the drain. What is it? Did you use the barbed fitting that came with the false bottom?

I am looking to build a round 15 gal MLT. I think PVC tubing will crushed by heavy grain bed.

Thank you,

Art
 
Have you been back & read the conversion instructions? You don't put the faucet (or washer, etc.) adapter directly in the cooler. The idea is to just use the SS braid on the outside of the line as a filter for your grain bed. Cut off the ends, and treat it like a Chinese finger puzzle getting it off the rubber line, then follow directions per the beginning of this thread. My son & I just did a batch of big ESB yesterday, using this very conversion....worked like a charm. 73% efficiency, made a 1.060 SG.


Whoops, should read directions a little closer next time, thanks for clearing that up for me Rico
 
To obtain the SS washers I bought the "Build a Bolt" from HD and used the lock washer instead of more flat washers. It was tough to get one but filled the gap nicely. No leaks.
 
I am looking to build a round 15 gal MLT. I think PVC tubing will crushed by heavy grain bed.

How much grain are you mashing that you can crush PVC piping? It should have the PSI max stamped on the tube. What goes for PSI max on the inside can be safely assumed to be close to what it can stand from the outside. I expected it'd be in the range of 200-300 PSI. So unless you are mashing a few thousand pounds of grain, PVC pipe will hold up just fine.
 
I just put my braid in and it seems really easy to crush, should it be pretty sturdy or is it going to be enough to hold the weight of the grain? I could always slot some tubing, anything wrong with using the piece that came with the hose?
 
How much grain are you mashing that you can crush PVC piping? It should have the PSI max stamped on the tube. What goes for PSI max on the inside can be safely assumed to be close to what it can stand from the outside. I expected it'd be in the range of 200-300 PSI. So unless you are mashing a few thousand pounds of grain, PVC pipe will hold up just fine.

G1, I was assuming that this set up used flex tube. Guess I was wrong. Of course, PVC pipe wont crush under a homebrewer's grain bed.

The reason for asking the question is to find a flexible connection from the false bottom to the drain. In a round MLT, rigid pipe would make it difficult to remove the false bottom for cleaning. Also, the SS false bottom available form a few of the HB vendors has a barbed fitting.

Clear PVC flex tube would crush under a heavy grain bed. Thus my dilemma.. I'm looking for an alternative.
 
I think food grade vinyl tubing made to handle some heat would do just fine. You can probably find it at McMaster-Carr.
 
One should be able to be extrapolated to the other reasonably. Since you're only talking in the range of ~100 lbs of weight in cooler AND since the tube should have liquid in it, a decently high durameter should be hard enough to maintain its shape. You could always order some of a few different types and see which one works best under a few tests.
 
One should be able to be extrapolated to the other reasonably. Since you're only talking in the range of ~100 lbs of weight in cooler AND since the tube should have liquid in it, a decently high durameter should be hard enough to maintain its shape. You could always order some of a few different types and see which one works best under a few tests.

The spec remains the same within a given tube style as well as between styles that use the same material. It is a raw material spec, not a finished product spec. Granted, a material with a harder composition will tend to be more rigid. However, a tube that is reinforced with steel will have the same duro spec as one that is not.

As you say, looks like the best way to find out is to get my hands on some tubing. It shouldn't be too hard to find a distributor in LA.
 
Where are you guys finding the food grade vinyl tubing?
It is the last piece missing!
 
So it's been an impossible feat for me to find SS 5/8" fender washer, considering I'd rather not only have the option of buying bulk online.

A fastener store in town carries SS 5/8" USS washers. They are 1.5" wide... should that be big enough to maintain a watertight seal on the inside?
 
Here you go. Your LHBS should have some as well.

McMaster-Carr

Holy Smokes that's a s^@% load of tubing!
Thanks arturo

Finished mine today, less the tubing. I'm just using the braided line with clamps till my tubing comes in.
Maiden voyage tomorrow. Thanks for the OP FlyGuy

Reno - I bought my SS washer at Home Depot. I had to buy a little package called Create A Bolt, it comes with 4 washers +lock washers and nuts. It was almost four bucks but better than running around...

Spludge
 
Here's a pic of the ball lock. It's in the description but you can see the gap between the SS flat/fender washers where i used the lock washer (not visible). The ball lock will spin on the axis and has a slight 'wobble' to it but I have no leaks whatsoever.

P1010341.JPG
 
My 10gal cooler MLT is working fine. No leaks. However, I would like to install the Brewmometer below to keep from removing the lid.
Anyone here with experience doing this?
Thanks.....
brewmometer-face.jpg
 
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