• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I followed original specs on a new 10 gallon Rubbermaid. I just came home with 6 washers for spacers on the outside and there is still a 1/4 gap to the valve when I put it on. I'll need 3 or 4 more washers to get a seal. That is ridiculous. Any suggestions for an alternative?
 
I followed original specs on a new 10 gallon Rubbermaid. I just came home with 6 washers for spacers on the outside and there is still a 1/4 gap to the valve when I put it on. I'll need 3 or 4 more washers to get a seal. That is ridiculous. Any suggestions for an alternative?

A thicker washer, or washers..I use 3-4 SS ones and end with a think one. Yeah, cause otherwise the valve wont shut right... Any thick 5/8" washer will do...
 
I followed original specs on a new 10 gallon Rubbermaid. I just came home with 6 washers for spacers on the outside and there is still a 1/4 gap to the valve when I put it on. I'll need 3 or 4 more washers to get a seal. That is ridiculous. Any suggestions for an alternative?

I just had the same problem but i gave in and just ended up using about 8 or 9 washers. Looks a little strange but it ended up working out in the end!
 
The answer to thi is probably something I've read over in the last 200 pages but I am converting a 10 gal gatorade cooler, made by Rubbermaid. Everytime I set it up and fill to test it I get a small leak coming from the bottom side. I am following the original design and specs. Have tried more and less washers. Almost seems like there is not a good seal from the inside. If anyone could shed a little light it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 
Had this same problem, I overloaded the nipple with teflon tape and tightened it down as much as I could, no longer had a leak.
 
I think a percentage of the rubber grommets that come with the cooler are not suitable for what we are using them for. You may want to try to find some kind of an alternate gasket, or do what some have done and entombed the inside with food grade silicone.
 
Just built this from the original build list tonight. Need to find a better seal washer or play with over/under tightening to get rid of a tiny leak behind the outer washers, but not expecting a problem. Watts part numbers were fantastic help. My local Home Depot had 3 ten gallon rubbermaid coolers in stock for about $45 (but had to wait for the staff to get them off the top shelf of the garden department outside shelves - found them online, but staff didn't know they carried them. Go figure.

Many thanks for the original post again, and all intermediate discussions - great info. Finally got me to go all grain.
 
I am looking to build a MLT like this but have been reading that only having a central draining point, which just running the braided hose would create, will cause the grain in the middle to become overly rinsed while sparging etc that may release tannins. Which would then leave an off taste. Anyone have any experience with this?

I am having an argument with my buddy as to whether to go with the braided hose or build a manifold out of copper tubing.
 
FuBaR1218 said:
I am looking to build a MLT like this but have been reading that only having a central draining point, which just running the braided hose would create, will cause the grain in the middle to become overly rinsed while sparging etc that may release tannins. Which would then leave an off taste. Anyone have any experience with this?

I am having an argument with my buddy as to whether to go with the braided hose or build a manifold out of copper tubing.

If you batch sparge then there is absolutely no reason to build a manifold. It won't hurt, but also won't help. It just adds time to your build. The thought of cutting all those little slits is painful.

The sweet wort drains evenly from the bottom. And, with a bit of tipping, I am able to get almost all my sparge water back out.

If you are fly sparging then the concern over channeling is more valid, but I know many people use the braid with outstanding results. I don't fly sparge so I can't offer any tips.
 
I am looking to build a MLT like this but have been reading that only having a central draining point, which just running the braided hose would create, will cause the grain in the middle to become overly rinsed while sparging etc that may release tannins. Which would then leave an off taste. Anyone have any experience with this?

I am having an argument with my buddy as to whether to go with the braided hose or build a manifold out of copper tubing.

I batch sparge now, but will fly sparge in the future, so I wanted to build a manifold from the get-go. Plus, it's very easy to take apart and clean.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ch...lt-conversion-23008/index177.html#post3382250
 
I visited a different Home Depot and found the right washers. I still needed 5 of them! But it is built and seems leak free. The HD I bought all the rest of the parts from did not have any 5/8 washers, so I went to True Value. They had some great thick "5/8" washers that did not fit over the nipple and that's how I ended up with the other thinner one that needed so many.

Anyway, thanks to the OP and all contributors.
 
I was able to find everything for this build at my local HD last week. I utilized two of the "Build-A-Bolt" packs in 5/8" to get the SS washers. There are 4 in each pack. I ended up using 1 on the inside and 6 on the outside in order for it to be a snug enough fit to eliminate excessive play. Leak free after both cold and hot water checks. I'm excited to use it tomorrow! :rockin:
 
Built one of these and used it yesterday with a false bottom. Thanks for the instructions! The one thing i noticed though was the entire fixture can be easily rotated. Does everyone else's feel solid?
 
Nobodies does ;)

I went to HD today and purchased and built a 5g mash tun, so psyched! I didn't purchase enough 5/8" ID washers, so I had to drill out a wooden spacer (about 1/4" thick) in the garage to get enough tension. Quicker than a return trip to HD to purchase more washers for spacers. The assembly still rotates, as tested by my 5 year old. But it holds water with no leaks. I used the parts list provided by OP. Thank you! Hardest work was finding all the parts at HD.

That and the Seattle T-birds blanked Everett tonight! Great day.
:ban:

Can't wait for my fermenters to clear so I can put the tun to use!
:mug:
 
I am looking to build a MLT like this but have been reading that only having a central draining point, which just running the braided hose would create, will cause the grain in the middle to become overly rinsed while sparging etc that may release tannins. Which would then leave an off taste. Anyone have any experience with this?

I am having an argument with my buddy as to whether to go with the braided hose or build a manifold out of copper tubing.

FuBaR1218,
I used a longer braided hose and coiled it on my 5 gallon version. I wrapped some heavy copper wire around a screwdriver and inserted it into the braid to help it keep the coil shape and help prevent it from collapsing.

And for those of you living near a Menards and looking for stainless steel fender washers, they have them for ~$2 for a 6-pack.
-mark-




manafold.jpg
tun.jpg
 
has anyone ever noticed that when you look up anything like the washers online you get suggestions for everything else you need to make the MLT?
 
Hey guys,

You'll have to forgive me for not reading through all 213 pages, I only read through 26 and couldn't find an answer.

Is there any reason to not just use a large mesh bag (or make an even bigger one) inside the cooler, and forget about the whole braided hose thing? You could just raise the bag a bit when you drain and it should drain way quicker than through a braided supply! Cleanup would be a breeze afterwards, too.

If I'm totally off track here I apologize, I've never brewed before but this is certainly how I will doing my first batch this weekend.
 
Hey guys,

You'll have to forgive me for not reading through all 213 pages, I only read through 26 and couldn't find an answer.

Is there any reason to not just use a large mesh bag (or make an even bigger one) inside the cooler, and forget about the whole braided hose thing? You could just raise the bag a bit when you drain and it should drain way quicker than through a braided supply! Cleanup would be a breeze afterwards, too.

If I'm totally off track here I apologize, I've never brewed before but this is certainly how I will doing my first batch this weekend.

You should check out BIAB (brew in a bag) systems. And we don't use a bag in this system cause you wouldn't get a uniform grain bed for sparging.

Enjoy your first brew:rockin:
 
You should check out BIAB (brew in a bag) systems. And we don't use a bag in this system cause you wouldn't get a uniform grain bed for sparging.

Enjoy your first brew:rockin:

Ok, what if your bag was less of a bag, and more of a big sheet that you could lay flat on the bottom ? You could still have a uniform grain bed when you sparge, but when you are ready to drain you can just pull it all up! Am I making sense?
 
madamimadam said:
Hey guys,

You'll have to forgive me for not reading through all 213 pages, I only read through 26 and couldn't find an answer.

Is there any reason to not just use a large mesh bag (or make an even bigger one) inside the cooler, and forget about the whole braided hose thing? You could just raise the bag a bit when you drain and it should drain way quicker than through a braided supply! Cleanup would be a breeze afterwards, too.

If I'm totally off track here I apologize, I've never brewed before but this is certainly how I will doing my first batch this weekend.

It wouldn't drain any quicker IMO, my rig drains super quick. Too quick actually. And as far as cleanup, your idea sound dirtier. You'd have to dump out that grain bag and get all the grain out of the mesh, and then end up having to clean the mash tun anyway
 
Back
Top