Gregredic
Well-Known Member
P-J, In regard to the spa panal 50amp GFCI. Could I possible find a 50amp GFCI that I could put in my controller box that would do the same thing? I was just thinking it would be nice to keep weight and bulk down.
Cheap basic setup
- Thread starter cork44
- Start date
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You certainly can do that. A few things to keep in mind: The GFCI that you buy must match the mains breaker panel that you have. The wiring to your brewery outlet must match the amps of the breaker protecting it. The GFCI breaker for your mains panel could cost you way more than the spa panel. (Brace yourself!)
Now: If your intent is to install a GFCI inside your controller box, 2 things to keep in mind: I've not come across a DIN rail mount GFCI breaker. A standard GFCI breaker would require a huge investment of your time trying to fit the components in your controller box. Also, when the GFCI is tripped in that situation, there is still raw power being delivered to your controller. not something I'd want to second guess in a emergency.
Other than that? Yes, you can do it. (But not for me.)
HTH.
FermentedScientist
Member
Thanks for this P-J! It makes going electric easier!
KruegerBock
Well-Known Member
Have you decided what you are using for your kettle?
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
Wasn't thinking.
That is exactly the intent. A small leakage current (0.06A) to ground trips the breaker. It has the same effect as pressing the test button.
Has anyone built this yet? I'm a rookie and would love to see how someone laid it out in the project box before diving in and trying this myself. What a great thread - thanks, P-J.
I was debating buying a plug-n-play control from high gravity brewing, but for a much lower cost this has better functionality and you get the satisfaction of building it yourself. (I'm no electrician, but I have a master electrician father-in-law to make sure I don't fry myself).
I was debating buying a plug-n-play control from high gravity brewing, but for a much lower cost this has better functionality and you get the satisfaction of building it yourself. (I'm no electrician, but I have a master electrician father-in-law to make sure I don't fry myself).
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
So I am FINALLY building this rig (just minus the timer, timer power indicator, and the timer power switch). I was running the lines that go to ports 9 and 10 on the PID and my 10 gauge wire doesn't come close to fitting these connections. I check to see if 12 gauge would work, and it will not. Since these particular lines aren't what is powering the SSR, would I have any problems using 14 or 18 gauge computer power cord wires?
The PID draws very little amperage. I've used 16 gauge stranded for the power and alarm functions with no issues.
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
tommyk - From my understanding of the wiring diagram, neither wire will be hot going to the element if the switch is in the off position.
Exactly.!
Yes, but if you flip the switch to turn the element on, it will be getting hit with 110v until the PID turns the SSR on to get the second hot wire on (which would then be 220v).
So it seems like even if PID is saying to "not run the element", the element will still be running at half current. Is it really always supposed to be running even if the temperature is correct and the PID is shut off?
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
P-J, I have been wiring this system up now for a few days and I am now reaching completion. Am I to understand that the E-Stop switch works by tripping the GFCI? I was sort of amazed at how small the wire on teh 1k ohm 1 watt resistor was when I installed it last night.
You really need to think about it a lot more. If the SSR is not carrying current there is no path for current to flow. Imagine a switch instead of the SSR. If that switch is turned off there is no path for the current to flow.
It is just like having a table lamp plugged into an outlet. When you turn the lamp switch off the light goes out (no path for current to flow).
Consider it.
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
I think tommyk was asking about "line 1" coming into the element switch and that it isn't going through the controller.
That is exactly how it works. The current carried to trip the GFCI is 0.06A.
Ok.... And when the there is no path for current to flow because the SSR in not conducting? There is no path for current to flow.
Gregredic
Well-Known Member
Problem resolved.
JeffBham
Member
P-J,
You rock! I stole your idea and electrified my HLT (sans the timer). Thank you so much for the drawings, parts list, technical questions etc. etc. By electrifying the HLT it has cut my active brew day down to 4 hours (and I think that I can cut it even further as I get more efficient). Again, a huge THANK YOU!!!!!
You rock! I stole your idea and electrified my HLT (sans the timer). Thank you so much for the drawings, parts list, technical questions etc. etc. By electrifying the HLT it has cut my active brew day down to 4 hours (and I think that I can cut it even further as I get more efficient). Again, a huge THANK YOU!!!!!
JeffBham
Member
As mentioned previously, I electrified my HLT and it is still working great! The only problem is that I now would like to go all electric so that I can move everything inside (toting the BK outside to the burner kinda sucks). That being the case, should I:
1.Wire a selector switch between the spa panel and the control panel? or
2. Run a second "circuit" off of the existing breaker in the spa panel (bad idea I'm pretty sure)? or
3. Buy another GFCI breaker for the extra spot in the spa panel? or
4. Other...?
I think 1 is the answer but does a selector switch mess up the GFCI? and Is there any way to power both PIDs at the same time? and How would you accomplish tying in the selector switch?
1.Wire a selector switch between the spa panel and the control panel? or
2. Run a second "circuit" off of the existing breaker in the spa panel (bad idea I'm pretty sure)? or
3. Buy another GFCI breaker for the extra spot in the spa panel? or
4. Other...?
I think 1 is the answer but does a selector switch mess up the GFCI? and Is there any way to power both PIDs at the same time? and How would you accomplish tying in the selector switch?
