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Chapman ThermoBarrel Reviews

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In reality.. we don't need pumps, or sparge arms, or herms coils, or fancy controllers to brew beer.. but a lot of us do it, so I don't really understand the argument against modifying these vessels....
I'm not at all against modifying these. What I don't agree with in general is modifying the core components of the unit without at least using it once for a real mash to see how it really performs. For the vast majority of users, the reduced coupling won't cause any problems--whether a pump is used or not.
 
I'm not at all against modifying these. What I don't agree with in general is modifying the core components of the unit without at least using it once for a real mash to see how it really performs. For the vast majority of users, the reduced coupling won't cause any problems--whether a pump is used or not.

I don't even see a problem with that. If you buy something like this.. knowing that you want a certain size of ports, or anything else.. why should you have to try it first before just making it your own and customizing it to your specifications?

You are right about the vast majority of users.. and I'm betting the vast majority won't modify them... But, I'm excited to see what other modifications come out for these barrels..
 
I don't even see a problem with that. If you buy something like this.. knowing that you want a certain size of ports, or anything else.. why should you have to try it first before just making it your own and customizing it to your specifications?
It's not matter of what people have to do...it's just a matter of what's practical. You know: if it ain't broke, don't fix it. How do you know if it's broke if you don't try it out first?
KevinP's explanation makes sense given his unique system, but as I said before, it would be unfortunate if people just started modding these needlessly because of a couple posts on a forum. Do it if you want, but it's probably not needed.
 
Fair enough.. Lol i'm all about modding and tinkering though. It's an inevitable part of almost anything I buy :)
 
I used my 15 gallon thermobarrel for the first time last weekend and was very happy with the overall performance. Temp dropped 1 degree over the 1hr mash. Wort ran clear after recirculating for a few mins. And I've had no problem getting suction from the pickup tube like others have mentioned. What more can I ask for?
 
Now that we've sent out all the Kickstarter rewards and extra parts I'm curious about people's experiences with the dip tube seal.

I haven't received much feedback about the seal on the dip tube after we sent out recommendations and an o-ring to use optionally if the other suggestions didn't work out. Has everyone been able to create an airtight seal with their dip tubes?
 
Getting a full drain has had its quirks, but for me it hasn't been due to failure to create an airtight seal. I've noticed that once I open the valve to drain I have to choke off the end of the silicone tubing and wait for it to fill before I let it drain out. Otherwise the flow rate is too slow, and the tubing does not fill enough to create the siphon.

Once the siphon is created it works flawlessly. I've never run into this issue with my other equipment that has dip tubes, but maybe the dip tubes are bigger on those. Regardless, not really an issue once you figure it out.
 
After not having time to brew for two months, I've finally been able to brew a couple more batches using my ThermoBarrel.

Temp loss was insignificant over a one hour mash.

On the second batch, which was the same recipe as the first one + 12 ounces of roasted grains. M+L efficiency was 72.8%, which is lower than expected.

The grist in the third batch consisted of 100% Rahr 2-row (19 lbs). For some reason, I had much less loss in this batch than I did in the first two. After meeting my pre-boil volume target, I collected another 3 quarts of wort. M+L efficiency was 72.3% (not counting the extra runoff).

As shown in the image below, 19 pounds of grain with a water:grain ratio of 1.35 exceeded the upper limit of the unit if you want to use the recirculation port.

2015-11-01-140718-66391.jpg
 
After not having time to brew for two months, I've finally been able to brew a couple more batches using my ThermoBarrel.

Temp loss was insignificant over a one hour mash.

On the second batch, which was the same recipe as the first one + 12 ounces of roasted grains. M+L efficiency was 72.8%, which is lower than expected.

The grist in the third batch consisted of 100% Rahr 2-row (19 lbs). For some reason, I had much less loss in this batch than I did in the first two. After meeting my pre-boil volume target, I collected another 3 quarts of wort. M+L efficiency was 72.3% (not counting the extra runoff).

As shown in the image below, 19 pounds of grain with a water:grain ratio of 1.35 exceeded the upper limit of the unit if you want to use the recirculation port.

2015-11-01-140718-66391.jpg

Thanks for sharing this. Very interesting. My first two batches with the Thermobarrel clocked in at 80 and 83% respectively. Batches 3 and 4 then both dropped to 73%, which I just assumed was user error, but it seems you had the same results?

Also, "can I mash it" shows that 19 pounds of grain @ 1.35 ratio should only take up 7.93 gallons of space. Strange that it filled yours nearly to the top. Have you actually measured it to see if it's truly 10 gallons?
 
Funny, I was just reading this thread thinking the same thing! I've got a huge styrofoam shipping box that I put my brew kettle in to keep mash temps and it usually drops 1.5-2 degrees over a 60 minute mash. I'm not complaining, I love my simple simple system, but damn these things are pretty!
 
I don't see why you'd BIAB in this. You can't apply direct heat to it so you'd either have to install a heating element or just drain it and transfer to a boil kettle, which defeats the purpose of the BIAB.
 
I agree that these aren't really suited for BIAB. Personally, I modified mine to add a Blichman auto sparge to the top and created a kettle mash system like the Brew Easy. works great for that.
 
I agree that these aren't really suited for BIAB. Personally, I modified mine to add a Blichman auto sparge to the top and created a kettle mash system like the Brew Easy. works great for that.

Hey, that sounds pretty neat! Would you mind posting some pics and/or more details on your build?
 
Hey, that sounds pretty neat! Would you mind posting some pics and/or more details on your build?

I'll try to remember to take a few pictures when I get a chance but there isn't much to it. The only mod to the thermobarrel is to open up the top port to attach a 1/2" coupler for the autosparge.

You can get all of the details of how it works (and how to use it) by downloading the Breweasy manual off of the Blichmann website. The only difference with what I built is that my thermobarrel doesn't sit directly on the kettle and also I don't have a temperature controller.
 
I'll try to remember to take a few pictures when I get a chance but there isn't much to it. The only mod to the thermobarrel is to open up the top port to attach a 1/2" coupler for the autosparge.

You can get all of the details of how it works (and how to use it) by downloading the Breweasy manual off of the Blichmann website. The only difference with what I built is that my thermobarrel doesn't sit directly on the kettle and also I don't have a temperature controller.

Thanks, yeah, I downloaded the manual and took a look, but I guess where I got hung up was the no temperature controller. So you just adjust the flame (assuming you use a gas burner) and try to manually keep things at your desired mash temp?

A photo of how you connected the autosparge would be great if it's not too much hassle.
 
Thanks, yeah, I downloaded the manual and took a look, but I guess where I got hung up was the no temperature controller. So you just adjust the flame (assuming you use a gas burner) and try to manually keep things at your desired mash temp?

A photo of how you connected the autosparge would be great if it's not too much hassle.

The pictures Val214 pretty much show how my autosparge is connected. The only difference with my system is that there's no cooler and the pump is connected to re-route the kettle drain back to the top of the thermobarrel.

The lack of a temperature controller definitely makes it more work to get the temps dialed in and I can't really walk away while mashing. That said, it's a pretty time efficient system because it's effectively no-sparge.
 
The pictures Val214 pretty much show how my autosparge is connected. The only difference with my system is that there's no cooler and the pump is connected to re-route the kettle drain back to the top of the thermobarrel.

The lack of a temperature controller definitely makes it more work to get the temps dialed in and I can't really walk away while mashing. That said, it's a pretty time efficient system because it's effectively no-sparge.

Thanks! Now I'm intrigued, what sort of efficiency do you usually get with that sort of system?
 
Thanks! Now I'm intrigued, what sort of efficiency do you usually get with that sort of system?

I normally get in the low 70's but I think it definitely varies just as much as with traditional systems. Supposedly the biggest factor is water treatment (residual alkalinity in particular) because of the much larger volume of water in contact with the mash.

In full disclosure, I haven't used this system in about six months and have since gone to a fully electric BIAC system from Brewha. It's a similar full-mash type recirculating system but involves less heavy lifting which, due to back problems, was severely limiting my brewing.
 
Now that some people have been using these for a while, do any 15 gallon users have any updates? I am pretty close to buying a 15 gallon. Has anyone made any volume etchings?
 
I was just wondering how people were still liking their mash tuns after a few years? I like the design of the mash tun but unsure whether to get this or SS brewtech infussion.

Is there not any volume etchings? From what I've read I haven't been clear on that, but it looks like maybe not.

Also not sure what to think about the fact that its 201 stainless and not 304 stainless. Anybody having any issues because of it?
 

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