Doing this tomorrow.
3 gallons
Replacing the cara-pils with white wheat malt.
Adding more Vienna and less two row.
All Willamette hops. Same addition schedule for same ibu's.
All the Best,
D. White
Brewed this up yesterday.
~3.5 gallons
2.75# 2 row
1.0 # Vienna
12 oz. White wheat malt
4 oz. Crystal 10
Willamette, 0.5 oz @ 60, 0.25 oz. @ 30, 1.25 oz. @ flameout.
S.G. 1.042. Third consecutive BIAB with 85% plus efficiency.
Pitched S-04 slurry from last blonde ale.
Couldn't get Cara-pils so substituted the wheat.
All the Best,
D. White
Brewed this up yesterday.
~3.5 gallons
2.75# 2 row
1.0 # Vienna
12 oz. White wheat malt
4 oz. Crystal 10
Willamette, 0.5 oz @ 60, 0.25 oz. @ 30, 1.25 oz. @ flameout.
S.G. 1.042. Third consecutive BIAB with 85% plus efficiency.
Pitched S-04 slurry from last blonde ale.
Couldn't get Cara-pils so substituted the wheat.
All the Best,
D. White
148F on the mash is where you wanted to be. Looks like you got there.
Extra liter of water should have you about 1.040, where you need to be too.
It will lighten with fermentation and will be lighter is a glass. Got a pic of how dark it is? Swaen makes a variety of different malts. What type exactly did you use?
All the Best,
D. White
Well, I used the substitution chart (attached) I found online as a guide to get the malt, and just now I noticed I screwed up.
I used:
- Swaen©Ale as Pale Malt (6-9 EBC vs 2.0 SRM) -- > Not bad
- GoldSwaen©Light as Carapils (10-20 EBC vs 2.0 SRM) -- > Almost ten times darker!
- GoldSwaen©Munich Dark as Crystal Malt (130-160 EBC vs 10 SRM) -- > Ten times darker!
- Swaen©Vienna as Vienna Malt (9-12 EBC vs 3.5 SRM) -- > Good enough I guess.
Let's see what kind of beer I get, I hope taste is not ruined.
Is there any difference between the malts apart from the color? (I guess not everything is about color, that's why I didn't choose only based on that).
I'm gonna pitch later today (I chilled the wort overnight), so I'll edit the post with a picture.
Thanks again!
J.
View attachment 666490 I am new to brewing, and I selected this as my first brew. The Mrs likes lighter crisp blondes, so I thought this would be a good one for her to critique. Amazing the powers of smell and taste that my wife possesses, but I fall short.
Primary fermentation was about a week of CO2 off gassing. I closed the SsB Unitank blow off valve at about day five to hold in some of the natural carbonation. It has been in the unitank for about four weeks now.
After three weeks I crash cooled (lowest I could get with SsB 1/5 hp glycol chiller was about 36.6°F) for several days, and then started force carbonating through the carb stone. Following the SsB unitank instructions, and a carbonation chart, I brought regulator pressure up to 20 psi. The unitank pressure came up pretty quickly to nearly 15 psi (the PRV limit), so I brought regulator back down to 11 PSI. Let it sit overnight.
The next day, we tasted it. Not all that foamy, but the wife said there was a metallic aroma and aftertaste. I sensed something there, but I could not put my finger on it.
Then came a lot of reading/research on this forum and elsewhere on the Internet about metallic aftertastes which led me to the possibility of carbonic acid. I bled off the unitank pressure to 5 psi, waited a day, and we tried it again. Same taste. Then I poured some and placed it in the fridge to de-gas. Odor gone, and aftertaste at least 95% gone if not completely.
Very excited that my first brew turned out “Ok”, and very possibly “Good”. I’m not going to make a claim of “Great”, but my initial goal was better than just “Ok”, and hoping for “Good”. So now I can say that I have actually brewed beer.
Cheers!
Greg
Congratulations. I'm sure you've already got something new in the fermenter. No? Why not?
Subscribed, this is my next beer!
At this point it will be what it is. Might be a happy accident.
Keep us posted.
All the Best,
D. White
After reading through your substitutions and notes on color differences something to note is that EBC and Lovibond or srm numbers are not the same. For example A 50 ebc crystal malt is close to a 20L crystal.Well, I finished it a couple weeks ago and it indeed went "different" than expected. It has definitely a bigger Stout flavour than anything else. BMC drinkers didn't like it much, and I can't blame them.
Where I live, Covid-19 is screwing things up a bit, so I thought maybe it's a perfect time to brew beer!
Could you guys help me figure out what malts should I use from the The Swaen to get a beer close to this recipe?
Their catalogue can be found here
Apparently I will have plenty of time to brew...
So is it only the colour of the malt what matters? Should I just match EBC's of the grain bill with whatever malt I find on The Swaen?After reading through your substitutions and notes on color differences something to note is that EBC and Lovibond or srm numbers are not the same. For example A 50 ebc crystal malt is close to a 20L crystal.
Hi. Yes, 66°-68°F is a good temp for Notty. You've heard correctly, it can be a beast and rather vigorous, so make sure you leave yourself some headspace (or have a blow off tube handy!) Good luck on this brew.Well looks like I may be taking stab 2 at this over the weekend. I tried previously with us-05 but got phenols (ended up being a poopyE bucket fermenter aka infections). I'm going to try this as posted. My question is I see it says you fermented Nottingham at 68F. Is that what you would recommend for this brew? I've never used Nottingham before but I've heard that yeast is a beast lol
I fermented mine at 66. Got back and my wife said she could hear it blowing bubbles fast from the tube the second day.Well looks like I may be taking stab 2 at this over the weekend. I tried previously with us-05 but got phenols (ended up being a poopyE bucket fermenter aka infections). I'm going to try this as posted. My question is I see it says you fermented Nottingham at 68F. Is that what you would recommend for this brew? I've never used Nottingham before but I've heard that yeast is a beast lol
Hi. Yes, 66°-68°F is a good temp for Notty. You've heard correctly, it can be a beast and rather vigorous, so make sure you leave yourself some headspace (or have a blow off tube handy!) Good luck on this brew.
Ed
Hi Jeff,
That is absolutely the very best way to approach this brew. Once you see what the original recipe should taste like, then it's perfectly normal to venture off into your own tweaks. It seems your efficiency is good, so you'll wind up with a slightly stronger brew. I've brewed this recipe many (at least six) times, two as originally posted my Biermuncher, and the others tweaked to accommodate what I had available, or just for giggles to try something new. In every case, the beer came out wonderful. A little different maybe, but always easy to drink. Good luck on your brew. Please let us know how it turns out.
Ed
Hi J.,
Seems to me your mash was too thick and you didn't get the conversion as you planned. Assuming you have a good crush on your grain, my recommendation next time is use the Brew In A Bag (BIAB) approach in your 5L pot (ideally, you should get a 10L pot and use the full amount you intend to boil.) If you are stuck with a 5L pot, mash using as much water as you can in the pot with the grain & bag, pull the bag and squeeze it like it owes you money, then slowly sparge over the spent grains into the pot until you reach your max limit. That should improve your efficiency. Good luck on your next brew.
Ed
Thanks again! I'll make good use of this 2.4% ABV batch anyway
Thanks for the reply Ed! Actually it's the mashing that I changed. I thought having less infusion water and more sparge water would increase the efficiency, but apparently it's not the case. I will stick to a 1.5:1 wtq ratio and will use whatever left water I have to sparge till I top up the 5L. This method was working fine with me before.
With the lockdown and everything going on right now I can't acquire new equipment, but I was curious about the BIAB before. I'll maybe give it a try if I find a 10L pot that fits in my stove.
Thanks again! I'll make good use of this 2.4% ABV batch anyway
Just pitched Nottingham. It's my first time using this yeast so I'm letting it ride between 64f and 66f to keep any potential esters down. I'm hoping this is a VERY quick turnaround brew If not no biggie! Either way it will be beer right? lol
Well Nottingham is definitely a beast! It was fermenting within 6 hours of rehydration!
Enter your email address to join: