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Since you seem to be well informed on the subject, allow me to post a question. I have been following the bill with a bit of interest, but I think they wrote me out of it. I have been driving, for about 2-3 years, SWMBO's grandfathers pickup. Long story short, he bought a new Dodge Ram in 1989, drove it for about 3 years, then it was parked in the driveway for about 16. It received a bit of attention over that time, but for the most part was left alone. About 4 years ago he developed bad dementia and has been living in assisted living. I have had the truck insured in my name since beginning to drive it, but it is still registered and titled in his name.

Would it be possible for SWMBO's mom (who is responsible for his trust, which the truck is a part of) to CARS this truck in for me, then sell me the ensuing new car? Mostly I'd just hate to just send this great old truck to the scrapyard and only get $400 for it when I could get $2500 - $4500.


Probably not. They were very strict about my name on the insurance/registration continous for at least one year and having the exact same name on this title. They don't want people moving cars around (selling a junker for $1000, so that someone could get the CARS deal with $4500, for example). However, there is a phone number for consumers to call, so check the CARS website and find out! It would be so worth it if you could do it!
 
Yooper congrats... I also took advantage of this deal... Am going to pick up my New 09' VW Jetta TDI tomorrow... I'll post a couple pics when I get it.

Jason
 
Am going to pick up my New 09' VW Jetta TDI tomorrow... I'll post a couple pics when I get it.

Jason

Very nice!!

i'm looking into this as well. I'm going to be replacing my 98 Dakota in next year or 2 anyways, and might as well do it no. I'm kind of holding out thought to see if Ford and/or GM follow suit with Chrysler on the matching deal.

In case you're not aware. Chrysler is currently matching what ever rebate you get. Possible to $9000 off your new car. I don't know all the rules on that though. But I'd prefer to buy a Ford.
 
Very nice!!

i'm looking into this as well. I'm going to be replacing my 98 Dakota in next year or 2 anyways, and might as well do it no. I'm kind of holding out thought to see if Ford and/or GM follow suit with Chrysler on the matching deal.

In case you're not aware. Chrysler is currently matching what ever rebate you get. Possible to $9000 off your new car. I don't know all the rules on that though. But I'd prefer to buy a Ford.

I think Ford is offering some great deals- so hurry in before the CARS program runs out of money!

I would have loved to get a VW- I really like them. In my case, I first wanted another Corolla, but the Hyundai seems much better made and it was about $3000 cheaper.
 
A mechanic friend of mine tells me that the VW's are extremely well built and reliable cars but, repairs are usually double, if not triple, that of any other "domestic" vehicle.

A lesson I have learned recently. When shopping cars, find out how much it'll cost to replace a frikkin key. Our Volvo requires a second mortgage to replace a key. Wish I had known that years ago before I bought the car.
 
I think Ford is offering some great deals- so hurry in before the CARS program runs out of money!

I would have loved to get a VW- I really like them. In my case, I first wanted another Corolla, but the Hyundai seems much better made and it was about $3000 cheaper.

When is the deal over? is it a timed event or until X amount of money is used...?
 
Yea I've heard that the general rule of thumb on most German cars is they cost a bunch to fix... But it has a 5 year powertrain warranty on it and 3 year full coverage warranty as well. And honestly this car only needs to last me 5 years anyway so I'm not too worried about it.

What I liked about this car is that it has a great feel driving it, of course the MPG is ridiculously high as well. The interior is second to none as far as the leatherette seating surfaces are concerned, Plus I could get a sedan with a 6 spd in it... very important to me.

Other amenities: (I don't necessarily care for them but what ever)

Power Sunroof
17" Alloy wheels
6 Disc CD Changer (In-dash)
6 Months of free Satellite radio
16 cuft trunk (Its freaking huge... could easily put about 5 full size golf bags in there.
Climate control, heated seats, outside temp gauge with mpg computing display.

Its a pretty nice car for sure...
 
When is the deal over? is it a timed event or until X amount of money is used...?

X amount of dollars have been allocated. I hear rumors that the money may run out by about August 1, unless congress allocates more.

Many dealers are backed up with these deals, so it's hard to say how much money is left.
 
Well hell.

Well, just because a car dealer said it, doesn't mean it's true!

Seriously, we were well prepared for this, picking out the car in June. The government just gave the dealers the rules on Friday, so it's new. People are definitely going to take advantage, if they can.

I know that there is a CARS website- check it out and see if your vehicle qualifies and then head out to a dealer just to see what's available.
 
Neither of my vehicles qualify, the mpg on both is too high. Plus, I've only had the clunker (it really does clunk) since November last. Seems I never qualify for these deals.:mad:
 
Neither of my vehicles qualify, the mpg on both is too high. Plus, I've only had the clunker (it really does clunk) since November last. Seems I never qualify for these deals.:mad:

Really, I'm suprised at how many really do qualify. The rules are pretty strict (must have owned for at least one year, insured the entire time, MPG under 19, etc). We just happened to have the Suburban all these years. We talked about getting rid of it when the price of gas went way up, but we knew it was only worth about $500 because it had new tires! We figured no one would buy it, so we just kept it.

It turns out that was a good move on our part!
 
I've had my clunker for way too long but the *NEW* published MPG rating is 21. The magic MPG number is 18. :(

Otherwise, my trade in value is just under $1000.
 
Ha.

I have a 2003 GMC, Sierra 2500HD, 6.0L, V-8, Reg cab, long bed, Automatic, with a trailering rear end (I forget the ratio). New, it got 17 combined. Going downhill with a tailwind.

IT DOESN'T QUALIFY. What a joke!
 
I think the reason yours does not qualify is because it is not old enough... i think 2001 is the cut date... Also you have a 2500 which might qualify as a "Work Truck" if so it will not qualify.
 
Still wondering what kind of tricks the dealers are using. Select models? MSRP pricing only? Sorry that model not available?
I know they are not giving cars away and would only be motivated by what they are going to be putting in their pockets.
IMHO car dealers are the most devious legal thiefs in the world.
AP
 
Still wondering what kind of tricks the dealers are using. Select models? MSRP pricing only? Sorry that model not available?
I know they are not giving cars away and would only be motivated by what they are going to be putting in their pockets.
IMHO car dealers are the most devious legal thiefs in the world.
AP

It isn't a dealer promotion so there really is nothing the dealers can pull. This is done by the gubment
 
I looked into this idea, but this pretty much kills it:



What to bring to the Dealer to qualify:

* 1 Year Proof of Insurance. If your insurance card does not cover the entire year preceding the trade in, you will need other proof of insurance. Contact your insurance company to get evidence of 1 year worth of insurance. The form must include, at a minimum, the insurance company, policy number, VIN, start and end date of insurance (showing at least 1 year).
* Proof of Registration going back at least 1 year.
* “Clear” title. This means the title must be free of any liens or other encumbrances. If you have liens, you need to get these cleared before going to the dealer. This may include evidence on the face of the title showing no lien; that the title has been cleared (signed and stamped accordingly), or with an attached lien release from the lien holder.
* The vehicle manufacturer date found on the driver’s door or door jamb is less than 25 years old when you trade it in.

If you do not have any of the above items in your possession, you may do the following:

* Call your insurance company and have them provide evidence of 1 year’s worth of insurance on the trade-in vehicle. Make sure it includes the minimum requirements noted above.
* Contact your DMV for copies of prior registration certificates to show proof of ownership of the trade-in vehicle for at least the past year. The name on the registration must be the same as the name on the title and the same as the purchaser of the new vehicle.
* Clear your title by paying-off any loans outstanding and receive either a newly issued title from the DMV that is free of all liens and other encumbrances, or have the lien release document from the lien holder (signed and stamped accordingly), or your title signed and stamped accordingly (showing it is clear)

Once you are at the dealer you will be asked to certify to the following under penalty of law. The above documents will provide proof to the dealer to assist in this certification process.

* The trade-in is in drivable condition.
* You are the registered owner, and have been for the least the last year.
* The trade-in has been continuously insured for the last year.
* The trade-in is titled in your name and has been for the last year.
* You have not previously participated in the CARS program.



I still have a lien on the POS, and it's not like I can just whip $2500 out of my ass to pay it off. Some 'deal'. hmph.

If they goal is to get "clunkers" off the road then why must it be running? If your vehicle is broken and your plan was to get it fixed then you actually do have to get it fixed BEFORE retiring it if you decide to go with this deal? More waste of time and money. I guess their way of proving you actually use the vehicle. What is the plan for all these clunkers, scrap or cars for the homeless? :D

Honestly, even though I understand there are many reasons why they could be doing this to me it just seemed like the government taking more of my money and giving it to someone else when I can least afford.

Yes, I don't qualify but even if I did I would still feel the same.
 
I have wondered this too. Where are the "clunkers" going?

Salvage parts? Back on the road used? Cuba? Scrap Metal? Or artificial reef?
 
Almost wish I could do this with my old car.. its 26 years old and gets 29MPG tho, so I don't qualify. I love my old Mercedes 240D but it would be nice to get a car with modern comforts.
 
If they goal is to get "clunkers" off the road then why must it be running? If your vehicle is broken and your plan was to get it fixed then you actually do have to get it fixed BEFORE retiring it if you decide to go with this deal? More waste of time and money. I guess their way of proving you actually use the vehicle. What is the plan for all these clunkers, scrap or cars for the homeless? :D

Those points are covered on the website. The original point of C4C was to help reduce emissions. The economic benefit (if any) is a secondary issue. A clunker that isn't running produces zero emissions. :) Per the program rules, all clunkers turned in must be scrapped. That's why you can't get trade-in money on a C4C car.
 

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