Carb stone
- Thread starter KBradt83
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Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Link? I may need one of these to try to rid a Pilsner of excess DMS.
MakeDankBeer
Well-Known Member
The reviews for the cheap ones on amazon are pretty bad. Sealing issues
Looks neat... But the instructions indicate it could take ~24-36 hours for full carbonation and then you swap the lid for the normal one. Thats still pretty quick carbonation if you don't mind fiddling with it during the 2 psi per hour ramp up.
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Seems exce$$ive for something that can be built for a couple dollars and attached to the carb post on the underside of the keg top.
Two worm clamps, 3-ish feet of tubing or less, and a carb stone. Why wouldn’t this work?
Two worm clamps, 3-ish feet of tubing or less, and a carb stone. Why wouldn’t this work?
I have the one below which look similar to others but there could be minor differences (stone size). But they increased the price as I paid like $40 back in January. To me well worth the price. I follow exactly the process described by Nicegirl (key info there) at end below and last three brews I had them perfectly carbonated in 20-22hrs. The first one I did took 20hrs more because I miscalculated the beer temperature which is very important to get the pressure needed correctly. I wouldn't do it any other way.
https://www.homebrewing.org/Carbonation-Lid-for-Keg_p_7578.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/forced-carbonation-using-a-carbonation-stone.469875/
https://www.homebrewing.org/Carbonation-Lid-for-Keg_p_7578.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/forced-carbonation-using-a-carbonation-stone.469875/
Not sure of your source but the morebeer link says this:
How to use this product:
Beer must be stored cold 34–40°F
1. Preboil the stone for 2–3 minutes before using. This assures you that your stone is sterile and any residual oils have been boiled off.
2. Sanitize the whole keg lid before submersing into your keg filled with beer.
3. Set your PSI on your regulator to 3–4psi and attach your gas in fitting to the body connect on the lid. Leave keg at this pressure for 1 hour.
4. Raise your pressure 2PSI per hour until you reach 10–12psi. Leave it at 10–12psi for 24 hours. Pour a pint and test the carbonation. If you think your beer needs more CO2 leave for another 4–6 hours and have another pint.
5. Remove carbonation lid after carbonation level is satisfactory. Return original keg lid for long term storage.
Thank you! I figured out where I read 1 hour...it was a Quickcarb unit. I'll probably be buying the carb stone unit. Seems like a cheap way to save a week carbing!
This is the step that may disappoint your initial results. If yo get the stone read the link I posted above to know why. In my case with my stone I start at 7psi.
Yet another piece of gear that I want but can probably do without. As nice as it would be to have my beer carbonated sooner on occasion, I've grown accustomed to waiting ~8-10 days. And my pipeline generally allows for the wait since I usually have a keg I need to float before I can serve the one that's carbonating. Not to mention, I'm probably too lazy to monitor and ramp up pressure and swap the lid after the fact...
But I admit its a little enticing....
But I admit its a little enticing....
I like what you are thinking. Is there any difference between attaching to the gas dip tube or the modified lid?
The stone is $10, $2 for hose, $2 for clamps, $4 for a replacement gas dip tube (if needed).
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
This is what I’m wondering, as it seems like the cheapest simple solution. Theoretically, you could leave it in there the entire duration of serving/storage too, right?
Perhaps the hesitation is that it’s hard for some to reach their hand in the keg opening and push the tubing onto the post? Isn’t that what SWMBO’s are for, though? Or perhaps the posts are a different diameter than the carb stone MFL/barb requiring the use of step-down adapter tubing pieces?
The stone barb I found was 1/4" and the plastic replacement gas dip tube was 1/4". It should all fit, theoretically, if you have to replace the tube. Any thoughts on using the stone for serving?
Any ideas on how to rig this up for a Sanke keg?
If you attached the stone to the gas inlet and left it there, wouldn't that potentially cause foaming inside of the keg when pouring? Not sure what problems might come up with that... May be no different than serving from a bright tank though.
It'd be a ***** if the gas stone tube blew itself off the dip tube...
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Good point! For this to work, the carb stone would have to be a bit shorter than the dip tube to prevent the dip tube from sucking up the bubbles.
Also not sure it flow rate would be affected either because of the restriction from the carb stone keeping CO2 from entering as freely as it would otherwise...
What would make one state "the carbonation is better than set and forget"?
Unless one never actually allowed the beer to reach equilibrium...
Cheers!
Unless one never actually allowed the beer to reach equilibrium...
Cheers!
Beyond the reduced timing, I supposed it's a matter of opinion. I bottled a hopped cider last night and felt I didn't get the over-fizz I normally get from the slow method. Clearly there are many other variables involved but I tried to keep everything else the same. I also thought the effervesce was nicer with the stone.
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Just for the sake of updating, I created the contraption with an air stone attached to some tubing attached to the underside co2 post. This worked pretty well at scrubbing the slight DMS character from my cream ale. However, I installed it and left it on, both in the name of science and because I wanted to save co2 rather than purge and refill the keg again. Turns out, it ended up somehow making the beer seem flat after a week or so. It wasn’t actually flat, it just doesn’t retain head as well and the carbonation is more creamy than having carbonic bite. And this is despite keeping the same serving pressure in the keg. Strange, but perhaps desirable in some styles. Good to know!
By that, do you mean you've just set your regulator to the usual pressure? In that case you'll actually have a lower pressure in the keg because of the losses incurred when going through the stone, so after a while your beer will inevitably end up with less carbonation than expected. Just try raising the pressure incrementally by 1-2 PSI until you have satisfactory carbonation.
Deadserious
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I’ve got one, it’s badass, I set the PSI about 3 over what I want it at. Purge the head space a couple times through out the day and within 24-32 hours it’s done.
Amadeo38
Well-Known Member
Ah, I did not know this. Not really feasible for the three kegs in my big fridge since they all run off a single tank/reg via a manifold. The two other beers would be overcarbed, but I could put the air stone keg on my separate tank and regulator. Thanks for the info!
