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Can you bottle from a carboy?

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hockeystud47

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I have my wort in my primary which is bucket with a spigot, now after a few weeks I will take a gravity test and when its ready, should I put in my carboy and bottle form there? Or should I go to carboy, clean out bucket, then back to bucket for bottling? Help, thanks!
 
Why make it so hard on yourself?

The problem with bottling from a primary or secondary instead of using a bottling bucket, is that since you have patiently gone and let your beer settle and clear, in order to mix the priming solution and beer effectively, you would have to stir it in the carboy which would a) kick up all that nice sediment you have patiently let fall, b) possibly oxydize the beer.

It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Why don't you just go to the hardware store and make a bottling bucket? You can find everything you need, including a spigot there.

With my bottling bucket and my dip tube, I leave no more than about 3 ounces behind, which means I can get about 52 to 54 bottles per 5 gallon batch.

Go to a hardware store and get a translucent or white bucket...but look for one where the 5 gallon mark falls way below the top of the bucket. Usually it will say 5 gallons at 3rd band from the top. (oh get the lid too....I totally regret not getting it when I did.)

Then get a spigot and make a dedicated bottling bucket. It really defeats the purpose of both a long primary/no secondary or a secondary if you have to stir up all the nice sediment you patiently waited to settle just so you can have consistent carbonation.

Mine is the translucent Leaktite brand 5 gallon container with the gallon and liter markings from Homedepot.

61GTWpzk9ML._SL500_AA280_.gif


Here's a pic of mine from my bottling thread.

bottling_wand.jpg


One of my dip tubes and what gets left behind.

dip2.jpg


You'll find a ton of good info here to make bottling easier.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/revvys-tips-bottler-first-time-otherwise-94812/
 
You can - you'll want to use a siphon and be careful doing it. Shuffling back and forth between the carboy and bucket is also doable if you feel more comfortable but, by adding the step you do run the risk of introducing infection.
 
A carboy is a bottle. Just cap it. :drunk:

But seriously, transfer just once to get off the yeast cake so you can mix your corn sugar into the wort to bottle with or mix your corn sugar with some wort in a jar and put a little in each bottle. Then, set your siphon hose or raking cane above the yeast cake in your primary and go for it.

Hey Revvy, in that second pic, is that one of those bottle filler canes attached to the spigot via a hose? That seems like a good idea. I've been opening and closing the spigot.
 
in your primary and go for it.

Hey Revvy, in that second pic, is that one of those bottle filler canes attached to the spigot via a hose? That seems like a good idea. I've been opening and closing the spigot.

Yup, you've been gone awhile, I've become stickified for my bottling tips, among them that.

It's just like a 1 inch piece to connect the two, and then let the spring bottle filler do the work. Saves a lot of time.
 
Hmm well I really spent the last of my money on this kit, so I don't know if I will be able to buy another bucket with a spigot, which cost a good bit. I know I could drill my own spigot hole in a bucket but It just seems like it would be easier just switching to the carboy then bottling from there,- but when I am racking from the primary bucket to the bottling carboy(now my bottling bucket), do I want to add the sugar when I am doing it? Because I know we are supposed to leave the yeast cake behind and other sediments, but you are also suppposed to mix in the priming sugar when switching to bottle. Thanks again!
 
Well I'd just siphon from the carboy to a clean bucket and bottle from the bucket
 
Hmm well I really spent the last of my money on this kit, so I don't know if I will be able to buy another bucket with a spigot, which cost a good bit. I know I could drill my own spigot hole in a bucket but It just seems like it would be easier just switching to the carboy then bottling from there,- but when I am racking from the primary bucket to the bottling carboy(now my bottling bucket), do I want to add the sugar when I am doing it? Because I know we are supposed to leave the yeast cake behind and other sediments, but you are also suppposed to mix in the priming sugar when switching to bottle. Thanks again!

Bucket from home depot 2.99 Or maybe even free if you can find one that held frosting or something in the baking deparment of a grocery store.
Spigot from home depot 2.00 or camping department @ any big box store.

That's too much for you?

If you've never bottled before and you decide for your first attempt to try doing it with maintaining a siphon, you might understand why it's EASIER to do it from a bucket. Coming through a spigot, you're not also having to maintain a siphon the whole time.
 
Most frosting buckets are 3 gallon so but 4.99 ain't bad
 
well then I also have to go buy a drill, which I don't have, to drill a whole to put the spigot in, thats more money and effort.

So my plan is in a few weeks, when the gravity level reads the same for the 3 days in a row, I will let it rest and clear up for a few more days. Then use the spigot to transfer it to my carboy, clean my bucket out, then siphon it from the carboy back to my clean bucket, which I will use as the bottling bucket. Does this sound ok?

Other option: use the spigot to get the beer in my carboy, then bottle from the carboy?
What do you think>
 
well then I also have to go buy a drill, which I don't have, to drill a whole to put the spigot in, thats more money and effort.

You got a knife or a pair of scissors? And a marker?

1) Remove the back nut and washer.
2) Hold back end of spigot up to the wall of the bucket at about the height where you want it.
3) Trace around the area that is touching the bucket.
4) Cut out hole that you drew, you might want to heat a nail with a bic lighter and put it through the plastic to make a starter hole.

It sounds like you're really set in your ways, you don't want to hear any suggestions of something that might work BETTER than what you intend. Something that will save you time and effort over multiple batches of beer, not just this one.

We're trying to help, but obviously you don't care for help, you just want to do it your way. Best of luck to you, maybe you'll have an easy time doing it your way, maybe you won't get frustrated trying to maintain a siphon when filling over 50 bottles straight from the carboy. Maybe you won't kick up a ton of trub doing it. Maybe you won't oxidyze or infect your beer moving it multiple times. I hope so, but if you do, then MAYBE you'll understand why I suggested you spend a couple of bucks to do it the easiest way to begin with.

There's a reason WHY folks have been using dedicated bottling buckets for decades.....

*shrug*
 
hockeystud47, The more often you transfer your beer, the more you risk exposing it to too much oxygen (and other things). I'd just bottle from your primary. Whatever sediment gets into your bottles will fall to the bottom. Next time use the carboy as the primary and the other bucket as the bottling bucket. You could also ask someone to borrow a drill, or ask them to drill the hole in the bucket for you. Then pay them back in beer. There might even be some folks who live near you in BKLYN (on HBT) who might be willing to help.
 
If you use the spigot to transfer to your carboy you will need to attach a length of tubing to get to the bottom of the carboy. If you just let it pour in it will oxidize your beer.

Transferring twice is really upping the risk of infection and oxidation.

I would wait a little longer and get the bottling bucket!

Less than $20.

If you bottle from the carboy, add the priming sugar to the bottom then rack the beer. Do not try to measure out a little into each bottle. You would never get the proper amount into each one of them.
 
well then I also have to go buy a drill, which I don't have, to drill a whole to put the spigot in, thats more money and effort.

So my plan is in a few weeks, when the gravity level reads the same for the 3 days in a row, I will let it rest and clear up for a few more days. Then use the spigot to transfer it to my carboy, clean my bucket out, then siphon it from the carboy back to my clean bucket, which I will use as the bottling bucket. Does this sound ok?

Other option: use the spigot to get the beer in my carboy, then bottle from the carboy?
What do you think>

It sounds like you are at the beginning of your fermentation and not ready for bottling yet. Right? If so just do it old school and transfer to the carboy when your SG is stable or close to it if adding fruit and let it sit for a couple weeks.
 
Is it ok for me to brew my first batch in an aluminum pot? Don't really have the money for a SS pot.
 
I have heard that aluminum isnt good to brew in. You can get enamel too besides SS. I found mine at a hardware store for 40 bucks 20 qt granitewear - that was way big enough.
 
Mix up priming solution.

Place in carboy.

Carefully rack beer into carboy, onto priming solution.

Siphon into bottles.

Get bottling bucket as soon as funds permit.

Have a homebrew.
 
Ok, deep breath, if your primary has a spigot, rack over to the Carboy and clean out the bucket, sanitize, rack back with priming sugar and bottle. If your Carboy is 6.5 gallon, then for now on use that as your primary and keep the bucket for bottling, if it's not 6.5 gallon Carboy go drop $15 for another bucket, no spigot necessary if used as a primary
 
Is there a reason no one has mentioned those priming tablets? Seems to completely eliminate the need for a bottling bucket.

Just started listening to the "Basic Brewing" podcast, specifically the episodes on basic equipment and also their experimental 6-pack IPA where these tabs were mentioned and used.
 
wherestheyeast said:
Is there a reason no one has mentioned those priming tablets? Seems to completely eliminate the need for a bottling bucket.

Just started listening to the "Basic Brewing" podcast, specifically the episodes on basic equipment and also their experimental 6-pack IPA where these tabs were mentioned and used.

Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't and sometimes they take absolutely forever, there are many threads here about them, some swear by them, many don't.
 
wherestheyeast said:
Is there a reason no one has mentioned those priming tablets? Seems to completely eliminate the need for a bottling bucket.

Just started listening to the "Basic Brewing" podcast, specifically the episodes on basic equipment and also their experimental 6-pack IPA where these tabs were mentioned and used.

I don't like them because the bottles don't always carb the same, you don't have as fine of control over the volumes of c02 you want, and it takes longer to drop one in each bottle than to do it all at once. Just personal preference though.
 
Transferring twice is really upping the risk of infection and oxidation.

I see this again and again, but it seems to me that the actual odds of an infection are quite low. Sure two transfers give more opportunities, but is it really such a great opportunity that we should be worried about it?

Particularly when you're transferring back to the original container, it's going to be less (and I'd guess far less) than doubling the odds of infection on a single transfer. It doesn't seem to me like this would be a serious concern.
 
zeg, I'd say, oxidation is more likely than infection. Is it an impossibility (like me winning powerball)? No. Why take the chance if you don't have to?
hockeystud47, Aluminum is okay to use as a brew pot. With a new pot, just make sure you boil water in it (as close to the top as you can get it) for about 30 minutes or so. This will form a dark grey layer of oxidation inside the pot. Let us know what you did and how it turned out. Pete
 
If your choices are to rack twice in order to use a bucket or to rack to the carboy and bottle from it, I'd bottle from the carboy with a siphon and racking tube.

Alternatively you could rack to a new bucket without a spigot and bottle from it using a siphon and racking tube.
 
All this racking back and forth will cause you to oxidize your beer. Period. You will be exposing it to oxygen no matter how careful you are. Unless you purge the carboy with CO2. So it will become a race, will the beer carb/condition and get drunk prior to it tasting like soggy wet cardboard? However going to the carbon and then back to a clean bucket is the same risk of oxidation as you would experience going to a secondary. Therefore that's my pick. You will have a much easier time bottling from the spigot than trying to maintain a siphon. Just be very clean and make sure you splash as little as possible. I like Revvy's idea best, but given your other choices, I again say clean the bucket and bottle from it.
 
I bottled from a siphon until this year. A spigot is easier, but the siphon works just fine.
 
I bottled from carboy when both of my primary/bottling buckets were in use. Not a big deal.
 
zeg, I'd say, oxidation is more likely than infection. Is it an impossibility (like me winning powerball)? No. Why take the chance if you don't have to?

Maybe so, but I'm a tad skeptical of the importance of that effect as well, particularly for a relatively quick-fermenting ale that doesn't require a lot of aging. The reason is that among mead makers (and wine makers I believe), multiple rackings are quite common (and aging times are longer as well). I understand that they're different products, but it just seems a bit like under-justified paranoia. Are people actually experiencing failed batches that can be traced to the small additional oxidation from an extra racking?

The OP is sort of in an annoying situation where he's got to do something that one would rather not, so if we accept that buying an additional bucket is not an option, you have to make a choice among (1) bottling from primary with tabs or carefully measured sugar syrup, leading to extra sediment and possible carbonation problems; (2) racking to the carboy and bottling with a siphon, leading to possible problems and headaches with the siphon; or (3) racking/cleaning/re-racking and bottling through the spigot, with the slight chances of infection/harmful oxidation.

I don't have much experience yet, but spurred by Papazian's laid back attitude and the fact that plenty of inexperienced people here make good beer all the time, it doesn't seem to me like any of those options is all that more likely than the others to ruin the batch. The best option would seem to depend on what the brewer personally considers the least effort or most acceptable flaw.
 
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