Can someone tell me why i cant connect my kegs? Photos inside

[HopHead10]

Kegconnection is sending me standard ball lock keg replacements. Hoping this will fix the issue

 

[corkybstewart]

Doesn't sound like he has given up yet. One of the most confusing things to do is connecting keg QDs. Once you figure it out it's simple. But until you do, can be a PITA

That's one of the reasons I like my pinlock kegs better. There's no possibility of confusion and you can connect them in the dark.

 

[cwi]

That's one of the reasons I like my pinlock kegs better. There's no possibility of confusion and you can connect them in the dark.

But, in the dark, can you find the special socket to remove the posts?

Pin or ball post, they both work. The relief valve on most pins, that is a different matter.

 

[beerman0001]

Just checking in.. So you still cannot get the qds on and you have ruined you regulator?? You might need to stick with bottling.

 

[mattd2]

Kegconnection is sending me standard ball lock keg replacements. Hoping this will fix the issue

I hope you did somehow get a "bad" keg and this will fix your issue. But I don't know how you would though, kegs are pretty standard things.
When the keg you had trouble with arrived was there still pressure in it?

 

[corkybstewart]

But, in the dark, can you find the special socket to remove the posts?

Pin or ball post, they both work. The relief valve on most pins, that is a different matter.

Yep, it's in the middle drawer on the left in the beer room. I have a bunch of both types of kegs, and they do both work very well, but for ease of connecting the gas and beer lines pin lock are so much better than ball locks

 

[cwi]

Yep, it's usually in the middle drawer on the left in the beer room.

Fixed that for you. You know tools love to walk off and hide.

What are guys doing to vent the pin locks that don't have a retrofitted lid with a ring pull valve? That is the biggest issue with pin locks. The OP's is this way, and most are one time use. The aluminum retrofit ring pull valves are junk. At least they started making stainless retrofit posts. They were pushing aluminum versions of those until recently.

 

[HopHead10]

I hope you did somehow get a "bad" keg and this will fix your issue. But I don't know how you would though, kegs are pretty standard things.
When the keg you had trouble with arrived was there still pressure in it?

Yeah there was pressure in the kegs when I received them. I really don't know what the hell the problem is. Why can't the QD just connect to the keg without leaking

 

[mattd2]

Yeah there was pressure in the kegs when I received them. I really don't know what the hell the problem is. Why can't the QD just connect to the keg without leaking

Like someone said before, either you have wrecked the QD by forcing it on the wrong post, the incorrect way; or your keg O-rings are too old and need replacing/lubing.

Check out some (or all) of the links on the kegging sticky at the top of this forum group (or click here)

 

[JuanMoore]

Kegconnection is sending me standard ball lock keg replacements. Hoping this will fix the issue

Yeah there was pressure in the kegs when I received them. I really don't know what the hell the problem is. Why can't the QD just connect to the keg without leaking

If the kegs held pressure when you got them, they aren't the problem, and new kegs aren't going to help any. Once again, your QD's and/or the post o-rings are very likely mangled from forcing them on the wrong posts, forcing them without the collar disengaged, etc. With the bruises on your hand, I'd be more surprised if they didn't have some damage. Do you have any other QD's you can try? Have you looked at the post o-rings and at the o-rings inside the QD's to see if they've been chewed up, torn, damaged, etc. as was suggested?

I really hope you start taking some of the advice you're getting here so that you can be pouring yourself a beer soon.

What are guys doing to vent the pin locks that don't have a retrofitted lid with a ring pull valve? That is the biggest issue with pin locks. The OP's is this way, and most are one time use. The aluminum retrofit ring pull valves are junk. At least they started making stainless retrofit posts. They were pushing aluminum versions of those until recently.

I don't have any pin-locks, but know others who do. Any blunt object on the gas poppet will vent the keg easily. My friend uses the eraser end of a pencil to avoid scratching the top of the poppet and post. They also sell a special tool for this, which IMO is a waste of money. To purge the keg you end up needing to take the gas QD off and back on a few times, but it's not that much of a hassle. The downside to those lids IMO is the inability to do a counterpressure transfer without adding additional plumbing.

 

[jaynik]

I've noticed that you've been able to pick up keg lube and presumably get the tank filled with CO2, perhaps at a local brew shop. Even if you didn't get the setup from them, I'd imagine that any shop would help you walk through what you've got if you take it there. You might have to buy some ingredients or something to make it worth your time, but I'd think they'd help.

This is too weird to "e-fix".

 

[rich32501]

I bought a ball lock keg at my lhbs that looked great and held pressure. I couldn't snap on the tap and it made me nuts until I saw the out post poppit was too long and had no room to compress.

 

[HopHead10]

If the kegs held pressure when you got them, they aren't the problem, and new kegs aren't going to help any. Once again, your QD's and/or the post o-rings are very likely mangled from forcing them on the wrong posts, forcing them without the collar disengaged, etc. With the bruises on your hand, I'd be more surprised if they didn't have some damage. Do you have any other QD's you can try? Have you looked at the post o-rings and at the o-rings inside the QD's to see if they've been chewed up, torn, damaged, etc. as was suggested?

I really hope you start taking some of the advice you're getting here so that you can be pouring yourself a beer soon.

I don't have any pin-locks, but know others who do. Any blunt object on the gas poppet will vent the keg easily. My friend uses the eraser end of a pencil to avoid scratching the top of the poppet and post. They also sell a special tool for this, which IMO is a waste of money. To purge the keg you end up needing to take the gas QD off and back on a few times, but it's not that much of a hassle. The downside to those lids IMO is the inability to do a counterpressure transfer without adding additional plumbing.

I replaced the o- rings weeks back. I have an extra QD I'll replace 1 today and give it a shot w keg lube.

 

[HopHead10]

Here is a better pic... New QD, still same problem. Note the bubble location

 

[day_trippr]

Replace the post O-ring, hit it with keg lube, and try again...

Cheers!

 

[HopHead10]

Replace the post O-ring, hit it with keg lube, and try again...

Cheers!

Just did this... No luck, still leaking from the QD and under it between QD and peg.

Banging my head against the wall

 

[mattd2]

View attachment 39814



Here is a better pic... New QD, still same problem. Note the bubble location

Ignore me for not reading your post correctly

I'll leave this since some others seems to not have heard it.
Easy way to remember - Black = Beer, Grey = Gas

 

[passedpawn]

Ummmmm... that's not a beer out QD!
Easy way to remember - Black = Beer, Grey = Gas

Hey, that's great! Thanks!

 

[HopHead10]

Ummmmm... that's not a beer out QD!
Easy way to remember - Black = Beer, Grey = Gas

I'm aware of that. What are you implying

 

[Dan]

Please take your whole keg set up sans the frige to a brew shop or brew club in your area. It really should not be this hard for you to set things up. Possibly there is something fouled with your equipment. There have been close to a hundred posts trying to help you.

Please friend, take the gear to somebody who know's what they are doing and can see the gear. I think most people here just want to sincerely help you but it's a little hard to help from the net. If you were anywhere within 50 miles I'd be happy to drive over and lend you a hand with this problem. I'm no genious but will say, somethings are very eluding until you figure them out.

 

[jaynik]

So, does that mean there is no possibility of asking a local shop to help troubleshoot?

 

[Dan]

Hbt!

 

[HopHead10]

Ummmmm... that's not a beer out QD!
Easy way to remember - Black = Beer, Grey = Gas

I'm aware of that. What are you implying

 

[Dan]

Sorry OP but chill out. I don't think he is implying anything against you. 99.9% of the people here, are here to help fellow homebrewers.

 

[HopHead10]

Yeah, only homebrew store is 27 miles away. Hopefully I can get them to drive down here. I'll ask.

 

[Dan]

Yeah, only homebrew store is 27 miles away. Hopefully I can get them to drive down here. I'll ask.

I doubt they will drive down (if they do then you have a great LHBS) it's not really practical for them, but you could take your gear there and I'm sure they would help you.

 

[mattd2]

I'm aware of that. What are you implying

Sorry, read your post wrong. Was thinking you were still having issues with the beer QD. Have change my post

 

[JuanMoore]

I bought a ball lock keg at my lhbs that looked great and held pressure. I couldn't snap on the tap and it made me nuts until I saw the out post poppit was too long and had no room to compress.

Good point. The wrong poppets for the posts could cause some issues. HopHead10, can you take the QD off, and press on the poppet with something? It should push down into the post ~1/8" or so.

 

[day_trippr]

There's gotta be some HBT'er in ChicagoLand that could help this poor fellow out. Believe me, I have enough empathy that if I was within an hour drive I'd have been there already...

Cheers!

 

[OntarioBeerKegs]

These were converted coke kegs by the look of the original picture. What the original picture looks like is too much tension on the poppet. Remove the posts and inspect I am guessing you have universal poppets and it will be a conical spring
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If my hunch is right and it is a spring cut a coil off the bottom and re-install.