Can someone explain hydrometer to me?

[Will_the-new-brewer]

I am lost on most of these, but I do know I see a number that is somewhat familiar--1.0XX (depending on the recipe). If I am looking at this right, I might have a hydrometer reading of 1.052. I have no idea what the the other two readings are--maybe an ABV%?

Edit: This was taken just before pitching yeast (9 days ago).

 

[myndflyte]

Yeah it looks like 1.050 or 1.052. I believe the other number in picture 2 is Plato. Don't pay attention to the ABV one. The only number you really need to pay attention to is the 1.0XX number before and after fermentation. Use online calculators to calculate ABV once you have those 2 numbers.

 

[Will_the-new-brewer]

Awesome, thanks!

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I am lost on most of these, but I do know I see a number that is somewhat familiar--1.0XX (depending on the recipe). If I am looking at this right, I might have a hydrometer reading of 1.052. I have no idea what the the other two readings are--maybe an ABV%?

Edit: This was taken just before pitching yeast (9 days ago).

As a tip - spin it to get rid of the bubbles so you can see the level properly.

 

[LostHopper]

Hydrometers are calibrated for a certain temperature so be sure it's at that temp when taking the reading. I learned that after taking a reading of wort that was still too warm.

 

[homebrewer_99]

Hydrometers are calibrated for a certain temperature so be sure it's at that temp when taking the reading. I learned that after taking a reading of wort that was still too warm.

To add to the comment above: When you do your calibration per the instructions that came with your hydrometer what you're looking for is if there is any difference in what it is supposed to be versus what it is.

All you future readings need to be adjusted up or down per the results.

For instance, if the instructions tell you the hydrometer is calibrated at 60F to read 1.000 and you get 1.002 then it's off by +0.002. That means all future readings need to be lowered by .002.

 

[ncbrewer]

You can also read the hydrometer at room temperature and use a temperature correction chart. This might be a lot easier to do than heat or cool the sample, and it won't be evaporating in the mean time.

 

[Will_the-new-brewer]

All, I appreciate the help on this one! Tonight is first gravity check, post fermentation.

 

[bruce_the_loon]

Don't worry too much about getting the sample to the 20 degree C calibration temp.

 

[bruce_the_loon]

Dang, hit post too soon. http://www.brewersfriend.com/hydrometer-temp/ is a site where you can correct the readings as long as you measure the temp of the sample at the time you take the hydrometer reading.

 

[Will_the-new-brewer]

Why does the hydrometer reading change so quickly? I went from 1.011 to 1.013 in 4 minutes with the hydrometer just sitting in there. Is that normal?

 

[johnstod]

Why does the hydrometer reading change so quickly? I went from 1.011 to 1.013 in 4 minutes with the hydrometer just sitting in there. Is that normal?

That will be the temp changing

 

[Will_the-new-brewer]

That is pretty cool. As long as I know the temp at time of reading (when I first took it), and adjust to calibration, then all is good I presume.

 

[beermanpete]

That will be the temp changing

Or CO2 bubbles attaching to the hydrometer. Finished beer needs to be degassed to get reliable readings.

 

[johnstod]

Or CO2 bubbles attaching to the hydrometer. Finished beer needs to be degassed to get reliable readings.

That's a good point, I generally pour my samples move the fv back to its spot and sort anything else out I need to do while it settles, this way I know I'm getting a true reading.

 

[balrog]

+1 bubbles. Fermenting beer will haz CO2 dissolved. Warming the sample will release leeetle teeny tiny hydrometer floating bubbles. Spin that sucker after it's been sitting even a minute to check.

 

[ncbrewer]

Or CO2 bubbles attaching to the hydrometer. Finished beer needs to be degassed to get reliable readings.

For FG readings I pour the beer from one glass to another 20 times to degas it - then dip the foam off the top. I've checked and sometimes found small differences after degasing.

 

[ESBrewer]

I think from left to right, potential alcohol by volume(forget about this, it is purely hypothetical and nobody uses it in discussions), Plato degrees gravity (used commonly in brewing industry), gravity relative to pure water(this is what homebrewers seem to be using mostly). The gravity is (roughly, not exactly!) 4x Plato value. 10 °P means that the extract content of the wort is 10g per 100g of wort. You should pay attention to the value on right, but Platos can be handy at times. For example, you may find the exact Plato value for a beer that you are cloning so it will be quick and easy to compare, or you want to know the amount of extract in the wort, that is simply the same amount as Platos but in grams/100g.

 

[homebrewer_99]

+1 bubbles. Fermenting beer will haz CO2 dissolved. Warming the sample will release leeetle teeny tiny hydrometer floating bubbles. Spin that sucker after it's been sitting even a minute to check.

My granddaughter doesn't like carbonated soda. My daughter blows the CO2 out of solution by blowing air trough a straw into the soda...think: blowing bubbles into your milk or Root Beer float.