I am in the transition phase of going from extract brews to all grain, and probably the BIAB method. Right now I only do 5 gallon batches, but I hope to do 10 in the future on occasion. If I got a 20 gallon kettle now when only doing 5 gallon batches, are there any negatives to having such a large kettle, other than not fitting on the stovetop or being a little harder to work with in general?
Can a pot be too big?
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TANSTAAFB
Well-Known Member
10 gallon batches fit just fine in my 15 gallon keggle. 20 may be a bit big for the usual 5 gallon and occasional 10 gallon batch.
You'll have a bigger boiloff with a wider pot. That's not really a major problem though, as you can always just top off water.
If you have a wide pot with a low amount of liquid, your chiller may not be fully submersed. Again, probably not a huge deal.
If you install a thermometer or sightglass bulkhead in the side of a large pot and don't fill it far enough, they won't register. Nothing deal breaking.
I wish I'd bought a 20 gallon BK when I started. I started with partial boil 5 gallon batchs in a pair of 5 gallon kettles, then went the keggle route, and now that I'm looking forward to eventually replacing everything with a 1 bbl build.
If you have a wide pot with a low amount of liquid, your chiller may not be fully submersed. Again, probably not a huge deal.
If you install a thermometer or sightglass bulkhead in the side of a large pot and don't fill it far enough, they won't register. Nothing deal breaking.
I wish I'd bought a 20 gallon BK when I started. I started with partial boil 5 gallon batchs in a pair of 5 gallon kettles, then went the keggle route, and now that I'm looking forward to eventually replacing everything with a 1 bbl build.
A 20 gallon pot is very large, and will be inconvenient for 5 gallon batches. For mostly 5 gallon batches, and an "occasional" 10 gallon batch, I think you would be better served with a 15 gallon kettle.
Or keep your eyes open in the used / inexpensive market and get a 10 and a 20.
Or keep your eyes open in the used / inexpensive market and get a 10 and a 20.
Holding heat during the mash will be more difficult the more oversized the kettle is...just sayin.
A 20 gallon kettle with only 8 lbs of grain would be tricky, but doable I guess.
A 20 gallon kettle with only 8 lbs of grain would be tricky, but doable I guess.
You have three issues going at once here, a change from extract to all grain, a change from 5 gallon batches to 10, and a change from a small pot to a large one. Lets separate them.
You have been doing extract so you must have a pot. What size is it? 5 gallons is common so lets think about that for now. You can do a 2 1/2 gallon batch BIAB in a 5 gallon pot with only adding a paint strainer bag. Pretty inexpensive in equipment and in grains since you only need half as much. Do a batch or 2 that way so you know the how of all grain. If you really mess it up, it's only 2 1/2 gallons.
Once you have done the small batches, think about the 10 gallon size. How often do you want 10 gallons of the same beer? I hardly brew even 5 gallon batches anymore because I like variety in my beers and with BIAB I can whip one out in less than 4 hours. If I really like that kind of beer, I can brew it again or I can do a 5 gallon batch in my 7.5 gallon turkey fryer pot and it still takes me about 4 hours.
If you really want 10 gallon batches, you'll want at least a 15 gallon pot. Check out the price difference between 15 and 20 gallon pots. Do you really need that 20 gallon?
You have been doing extract so you must have a pot. What size is it? 5 gallons is common so lets think about that for now. You can do a 2 1/2 gallon batch BIAB in a 5 gallon pot with only adding a paint strainer bag. Pretty inexpensive in equipment and in grains since you only need half as much. Do a batch or 2 that way so you know the how of all grain. If you really mess it up, it's only 2 1/2 gallons.
Once you have done the small batches, think about the 10 gallon size. How often do you want 10 gallons of the same beer? I hardly brew even 5 gallon batches anymore because I like variety in my beers and with BIAB I can whip one out in less than 4 hours. If I really like that kind of beer, I can brew it again or I can do a 5 gallon batch in my 7.5 gallon turkey fryer pot and it still takes me about 4 hours.
If you really want 10 gallon batches, you'll want at least a 15 gallon pot. Check out the price difference between 15 and 20 gallon pots. Do you really need that 20 gallon?
Didn't think about that aspect of it. That's something I'd definitely prefer not to have to deal with.
Right now I have an 8 gallon pot that I will use for my 5 gallon full boils, which will be tight. I was just thinking that a 15 gallon pot would be cutting it a little close if starting with 12-13 gallons for the full boil (as far as boilovers are concerned). Also, with BIAB, if I wanted to avoid some type of sparging, it would be tight to fit all the grain in a 15 gallon pot if it is an IPA or larger beer. I just want to avoid buying something and then 2-3 years later, having to upgrade. I just got my 8 gallon last year and spent $105 so I didn't want to go spend $250-300 and then be feeling I needed to upgrade again sooner than expected.
As to how often I would do 10 gallon batches, it wouldn't be very often. Maybe for a family get together, to donate to an Oktoberfest or other church festival, or if I wanted to split a large batch with people to avoid the time it takes to do two separate 5 gallon batches.
Reading the comments here, I think I'll probably just go with a 15 gallon, although I won't necessarily purchase in the near future. I'll probably do a few 5 gallon batches in my current pot and see how that works out with cutting it close and then determine if 15 gallons is big enough. I could probably just scale the recipe back to 8 or 9 gallons instead of a full 10 if I think I'll have any space issues.
I have a 10 gallon pot for 5 gallon no sparge biab. I also have a 17.5 gallon pot and a 22.5 gallon pot. At first I was using the 17 for 10 gallon no sparge but it was really close when mashing with 1.060+ beers. I have since switched to using the 22 for the 10 gallon batches and do not need to be careful and it also allows me to make some bigger beers no sparge.
Check out eBay for Jarhill stainless steel pots. There is usually a set that will include the 17 and 22 for a little over 100 bucks. Totally worth it.
Check out eBay for Jarhill stainless steel pots. There is usually a set that will include the 17 and 22 for a little over 100 bucks. Totally worth it.
TANSTAAFB
Well-Known Member
Just looked those up...that is an incredible price! Can you give a brief review of the quality? I searched and searched and felt really happy with my decision to buy a 40qt off Amazon for $100. I'm eagerly awaiting its arrival but when I'm ready to upgrade size this is really affordable. I just can't imagine they are really high quality with that price but I'd love to have first hand info that says I'm wrong!
My concerns with those pots would be the thickness on the bottom. I don't think they are 3-ply. The sidewall thickness at 1mm seems to be about the same as a MegaPot or similar heavy duty kettle.
Another concern would be the durability of the handles. They look to be riveted, but will they last as long as the more expensive pots?
Another concern would be the durability of the handles. They look to be riveted, but will they last as long as the more expensive pots?
TANSTAAFB
Well-Known Member
If I am getting four 1mm stainless pots ranging from 8 to 20 gallons and they are even remotely close to pots that cost 10x's as much I'd be happy! I am sure they aren't 3-ply but if they are decent enough this is a cheap way to upgrade a brewery. The fact is I can't afford a Blichman or a MegaPot or I'd own a couple!
dogslapbrewery
Well-Known Member
I had a 7.5 gallon kettle and it always left me with 4.5 gallons between hot break and boil off so I upgraded and ended up with the 20 which now I'll never have to worry about boils ever again! Also had upgrade my immersion chiller to 70 feet and I might invest into a chugger when I start 10 gallons.
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While the jar hill pots aren't super high quality, they are stainless and I have brewed about 10 batches on them with no problems. They are the same thickness as my 10 gallon from Williams brewing.
The handles are not stainless and I left one outside after a brew day and it rained. The handles got some minor surface rust on them, but it has not caused a problem. I started a thread about these pots when I bought them and also posted a picture of the handles.
They are definitely good enough for what I need them to do and I expect them to last many years. I just couldn't get myself to spend 300 on a kettle!
The handles are not stainless and I left one outside after a brew day and it rained. The handles got some minor surface rust on them, but it has not caused a problem. I started a thread about these pots when I bought them and also posted a picture of the handles.
They are definitely good enough for what I need them to do and I expect them to last many years. I just couldn't get myself to spend 300 on a kettle!
TANSTAAFB
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info D_Nyholm, just what I wanted to know! These are definitely on my radar now. I just ordered a clad bottom 40qt but I might buy this set in the future and sell the smaller ones to a brewing buddy to cut the cost in half.
I bought an 18 gallon and a 24 gallon from roundeyesupply. Similar to the jarhill pots I'd imagine. They are polished 1mm stainless and seem very nice! The handles are spot welded, but appear plenty strong for handling an empty pot as recommended by Blichmann!
For 60 and 65 bucks shipped to my door an incredible value. I have no need for a triclad bottom, neither does Blichmann...just sayin!
Wow that's a good deal on those pots glad I seen this post--I been using a 7.5 Gal. pot & pretty happy with it but have been wanting something bigger and couldn't decide between 10 or 15 gallon--think I'd be happy with the two smallest ones
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