Can a Cooler mash tun with scratches contribute to an infection

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as long as we're posting dick pics....here's mine, my cooler is 20 years old, being used once a week....but no bubbles or leaks....

dirtymashtun.jpg
 
i just gotta ask, why do you guys with the slot ports, always post pics of it upside down?

edit: and damn, i can't even keep my coffee pot as clean as you guy's mash tuns!!!
Whether you picture them up or down, you always get a guy (or girl) asking why not show it the other way. ;)
But seriously, we like to show off our handy work.

That picture of my tun was before it had seen any mash yet, or even water. It's quite differently looking now, trust me, it probably looks way worse than your coffee pot. ;)
 
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i just gotta ask, why do you guys with the slot ports, always post pics of it upside down?
Whether you picture them up or down, you always get a guy asking why not show it the other way. ;)
But seriously, we like to show off our handy work.
LOL!!! Like Island lizard said - we like to show off -
but I did it that way to show the pattern of the slots. I've seen people who drill holes, (remembering how tedius it was doing the slots, that had to be brutal) or other patterns, but this is how I did it, and it works out well for me.
 
When buying a new cooler, make sure the drain is flat with the bottom or better yet, recessed into the bottom, or the deadspace might kill you (well, your mash efficiency that is, but when brewing it comes down to almost the same).

Some modern coolers look good, but the drain is 3 inches up from the bottom.

See I need something like this. My round cooler with the false bottom leaves like 1-2 gal under the false bottom and I just know that’s always been killing my mash efficiency. I like the round but their drains/spouts are always 2” above the bottom of the cooler.
 
I built something like that for my MLT (48-qt cooler) whenever it was, and it's still running like a champ. I got a length of copper tubing, a handful of connecters, and a tube cutter.
I used my Dremel with a cutoff disk to cut the slots, and a quick sanding just to get the rough edges off.
It's upside down from usual - the slots face down for use. I haven't yet had an issue with parts falling off in use.
View attachment 693037

Would u mind pm’ing me the dimensions and size of the copper tubing and what u used to make the spigot connection. I think rather than buy a new round cooler I’d like to move to something like this to hopefully help my mash efficiency. Do u find u get good extraction using a manifold like this.
 
See I need something like this. My round cooler with the false bottom leaves like 1-2 gal under the false bottom and I just know that’s always been killing my mash efficiency. I like the round but their drains/spouts are always 2” above the bottom of the cooler.
As long as there's a diptube connected to the drain and reaching the bottom underneath the false bottom, it should siphon out the deadspace. That is, as long as the siphon doesn't get broken, which is often a problem in mash tuns.

Are you recirculating the mash? Fly sparging? Hence the false bottom and ample deadspace.

I envisioned the lack of stirring space in round coolers to be a real problem. So I opted for a rectangular cooler. They're very easy to stir (more space) and most come with bottom level or recessed drains. A slight tilt at the end gets the last few ounces out. The only possible drawback is shallow grain depth in 5-6 gallon, low to medium gravity batches. But with some care, clear wort can be lautered.

I usually mash at a water to grain ratio of 1.5 qt/lb. After completely draining, I do 2 batch sparges (good stirring) with full drains. About half the brewing water is used for sparging in a 1.060 batch. Mash efficiency is 80-85%.

Step mashes and cereal mashes get done in the brew kettle, then transferred to the cooler mash tun for lautering and sparging. I prefer that over trying to heat the grist in the tun. There's so much heat loss while the lid is off, it becomes like the gopher game.
 
As long as there's a diptube connected to the drain and reaching the bottom underneath the false bottom, it should siphon out the deadspace. That is, as long as the siphon doesn't get broken, which is often a problem in mash tuns.

Are you recirculating the mash? Fly sparging? Hence the false bottom and ample deadspace.

I envisioned the lack of stirring space in round coolers to be a real problem. So I opted for a rectangular cooler. They're very easy to stir (more space) and most come with bottom level or recessed drains. A slight tilt at the end gets the last few ounces out. The only possible drawback is shallow grain depth in 5-6 gallon, low to medium gravity batches. But with some care, clear wort can be lautered.

I usually mash at a water to grain ratio of 1.5 qt/lb. After completely draining, I do 2 batch sparges (good stirring) with full drains. About half the brewing water is used for sparging in a 1.060 batch. Mash efficiency is 80-85%.

Step mashes and cereal mashes get done in the brew kettle, then transferred to the cooler mash tun for lautering and sparging. I prefer that over trying to heat the grist in the tun. There's so much heat loss while the lid is off, it becomes like the gopher game.

I do not currently have a dip tube which if I go to a round again I need to get. However I thought about upping the cooler size just to accommodate larger grain bills for high gravity stouts so I don’t have to add dme to the boil to reach my desired og. The cpvc manifold looks pretty easy to put together, it’s cheap and I like the idea of being able to access all the wort.

Do u find the slits in the manifold filter well? I still have bits of grain that sneak through the false bottom but a couple vorloufs and the wort runs clear so I know nothings foolproof.
 
As long as there's a diptube connected to the drain and reaching the bottom underneath the false bottom, it should siphon out the deadspace. That is, as long as the siphon doesn't get broken, which is often a problem in mash tuns.

Are you recirculating the mash? Fly sparging? Hence the false bottom and ample deadspace.

I envisioned the lack of stirring space in round coolers to be a real problem. So I opted for a rectangular cooler. They're very easy to stir (more space) and most come with bottom level or recessed drains. A slight tilt at the end gets the last few ounces out. The only possible drawback is shallow grain depth in 5-6 gallon, low to medium gravity batches. But with some care, clear wort can be lautered.

I usually mash at a water to grain ratio of 1.5 qt/lb. After completely draining, I do 2 batch sparges (good stirring) with full drains. About half the brewing water is used for sparging in a 1.060 batch. Mash efficiency is 80-85%.

Step mashes and cereal mashes get done in the brew kettle, then transferred to the cooler mash tun for lautering and sparging. I prefer that over trying to heat the grist in the tun. There's so much heat loss while the lid is off, it becomes like the gopher game.

This is what I’m dealing with and it’s been this way for years until I realized the wort was actually breaching the wall of the cooler and leaking out under the spigot.
 

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Do u find the slits in the manifold filter well? I still have bits of grain that sneak through the false bottom but a couple vorloufs and the wort runs clear so I know nothings foolproof.
I outlined my Vorlauf and Lautering process in #32.

I'm quite sure the first vorlauf has grain bits due to the stirring while mashing in (I underlet the grist).
And again, from stirring during the batch sparge.
But once the grain bed has settled the runnings are clear. You do have to return the Vorlauf slowly and carefully not to disturb the grain bed too much, it's fairly shallow, unlike in your round tun. Hence pouring onto the perforated aluminum foil mash cover. I have a few empty, amazingly thick, heavy duty plastic sacks that contained dog food (Blue Buffalo). They may be mylar. I may cut one up and try to use as a mash cover next.

I really don't think a few grain bits that make it to the kettle are gonna harm your wort/beer.

My mash tun is sitting on a low 12" bench. I vorlauf and lauter into a "half size," 3.5 gallon bucket. I carefully transfer the collected runnings into my kettle, which sits on an induction burner on the countertop. So there's one series of lifts involved, about 2-3 gallons a time.
 
Would u mind pm’ing me the dimensions and size of the copper tubing and what u used to make the spigot connection. I think rather than buy a new round cooler I’d like to move to something like this to hopefully help my mash efficiency. Do u find u get good extraction using a manifold like this.
I used a 48-qt cooler I got at Home Depot. The spigot I ordered from one of the HB supply shops online - I don't remember which one, but it was an easy enough install. The hardest part was getting the stock one out.
The tubing is 5/8" outside diameter, I think I got a 6 or 8-foot length. I didn't make to any specific dimensions, I more or less eyeballed it to fit. Along with the corner pieces, 4 corners, a T shape and 2 45-degree t's. I think I brought the spigot in to make sure it fit snugly.
spigot.jpeg
 
See I need something like this. My round cooler with the false bottom leaves like 1-2 gal under the false bottom and I just know that’s always been killing my mash efficiency. I like the round but their drains/spouts are always 2” above the bottom of the cooler.



wouldn't splitting your batch sparges into more, work to reduce how much sugar is lost in the 'dead space'? i fly sparge, so i don't think i lose much in the dead space.....
 
wouldn't splitting your batch sparges into more, work to reduce how much sugar is lost in the 'dead space'? i fly sparge, so i don't think i lose much in the dead space.....

well I think a big prob was that I was maybe using to much water and leaving slot of sugars behind under the false bottom so I finally retrofitted a braid to the manifold inlet and that’ll lay on the bottom of the mlt to now hopefully grab all the rest of the wort I was never getting before.
 
using to much water and leaving slot of sugars behind under the false bottom

that was what i was trying to say, batch sparging you drain completely right? so if instead of only doing 2 drainings, you did 4 or something....the average loss in the dead space would be less wouldn't it?
 
that was what i was trying to say, batch sparging you drain completely right? so if instead of only doing 2 drainings, you did 4 or something....the average loss in the dead space would be less wouldn't it?

yes I drain until basically the wort stops flowing however here is still wort left underneath the inlet. I only drain twice once after the initial mash in collect 3.5-4 gal then again after my single sparge to get the rest of my volume.
 
if you have say 1.070 wort in the dead space after the first drain....then have 1.040 or some crap....i'm not that good at math with my 4th grade education,

but if you did more rinse with less water it'd be an avg...


(1.070+1.040+1.020+1.008)/4=ahh, hell, less loss...... :mug: (and if it's just the dead space causing your losses, you wouldn't even need to cover the grain bed...if you're worried about to much volume in the BK)

edit: damn, i woke up to 22 alerts this morning! what was this thread about again? :D


edit #2: leaky rubbermaid, now i remember a bit more.... ;) i can hear the crowd chanting P.U. already, :drunk:
 
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