Camco 1500 watt ULWD Elements

[Lilrascal]

I may be wrong, but this is what I am using in my set up. It is listed as a stainless element.

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/sp10868gl.aspx

 

[jpoder]

I may be wrong, but this is what I am using in my set up. It is listed as a stainless element.

Hmm...from the Rheem website, it says that the element is made from Stainless Steel and coated with an "outer sheath of Incology® 800" from the looks on the Camco one I have (and reading other threads) mine is copper with the same Incology coating.

Looks like there is already a thread on this topic: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/best-heating-element-material-coating-292217/

 

[tre9er]

I've used the "short" camco 1500W elements that aren't actually ULWD for a while now. Still have one in my BK along with a 1650W ULWD (for real). Never had any detectable scorching flavors or anything else. I use a brush on them but don't go crazy. Haven't taken the coating off or anything like that. Aint broke, don't fix.

 

[tre9er]

WhooHooo! Direct fire EMLT with NO scorching . . .
and a grist of 50% malted wheat and 50% flaked maize.

My first fizzy yellow beer. :cross:

How hard are these elements to bend? I don't want to break one, but I'd like to change how mine is angled in the BK. I can't get my IC all the way submerged because the angle of the keg where the element is mounted has the element pointing upward at probably a 20* angle. If I can bend it more level I might get more of my IC in and thus faster cooling.

 

[AnOldUR]

How hard are these elements to bend? I don't want to break one . . .

The picture is a 1650W Emerson that's copper. I went slow and easy, fearing it might kink or break something internal, but it seemed to move where I wanted it to pretty easy. Works fine and should spread the heat out a bit more. Not so sure about a stainless element.

 

[tre9er]

The picture is a 1650W Emerson that's copper. I went slow and easy, fearing it might kink or break something internal, but it seemed to move where I wanted it to pretty easy. Works fine and should spread the heat out a bit more. Not so sure about a stainless element.

I think mine is the same emerson. I think I even linked to it earlier in this thread?? I may give it a try. At least they're cheap. I'll do it AFTER my next round of brews though!

 

[cockybitz]

What about using a 6000W element on a 120V circuit. That should give you only 1500W of working power. Has anyone else done such?

 

[thargrav]

A lot of people do this - it's a smart way to turn a high watt density element into a medium watt density element.

 

[sethhobrin]

I am still searching for a 12" long ULWD 240V 1500Watt/2000watt element for my rims tube.

Lots of choices for 120v but not so much for 240v.

I have a 240v circuit.

 

[thargrav]

You can run a 6000 Watt 480V water heating element at 240V for 1500 watts, but they aren't cheap.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/323871/Rheem-Ruud_SP10870QL_Electric_Element

 

[thargrav]

Unless you go to FleaBay:

http://compare.ebay.com/like/310392360980?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

 

[stlbeer]

I am still searching for a 12" long ULWD 240V 1500Watt/2000watt element for my rims tube.

Lots of choices for 120v but not so much for 240v.

I have a 240v circuit.

Boston Heating Company
Product Name / Part No./ Quantity/ Item Price/ Total Price/
Rheem SP10869GL 208/240V 1500/2000W Stainless Steel Element/ 6309/ $22.40/ $22.40/

Shipping was about $14 to STL from Boston.

 

[cockybitz]

You could also run 2- 240V elements or 3- 120V elements in series.