Building Kegerator tonight.. last minute hardware store ??

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elproducto

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Will be building my kegerator out of an old full-size fridge.

I was looking at home, and I have a 1-1/8" Hole Saw. I know 1" is recommended, but is there any reason that wouldn't work? Would like to avoid more $$$ if possible.

What sized hose clamps should I buy for the gas/liquid disconnects?
 
If you go oversize on the hole you will have to do some sealing around the shank to get things air tight. If you happen to have a step bit, you can use it instead of the hole saw. For the clamps, a clamp capable of handling 9/16 OD should be fine, assuming you are using 5/16" or 1/4" air line.
 
Awesome, thanks.

I live 25min. from the store, so I don't want to have to make any last minute trips.

Sounds like I should just get a 1" hole saw and be done with it.
 
Any reason a 1.125" drill bit won't work for drilling a 1" hole? Seriously? If you use it you'll have slop around the shank and that will be a PITA to deal with then you'll have to deal with sealing it and it not looking fugly. It's $5 for god's sake. You willing to make your kegerator look like junk to save $5?
 
either that or call around your neighbors or at work, knowing that it is going toward having beer on tap is a surefire way to get people willing to loan out their tools.
 
Any reason a 1.125" drill bit won't work for drilling a 1" hole? Seriously? If you use it you'll have slop around the shank and that will be a PITA to deal with then you'll have to deal with sealing it and it not looking fugly. It's $5 for god's sake. You willing to make your kegerator look like junk to save $5?


Man... I was just asking as I've never done this before.
 
Sorry, didn't mean to be harsh. It's just funny sometimes that people will spend hundred's of dollars on something, then be willing to junk it up to save $5-$10. :mug:

Haha.. no prob. I'm not very handy, so it really means nothing to me. Also, I'm using a 25 year old, beatup fridge for my first kegerator (Plans to do a keezer in the future), so I don't really care about looks. If there wasn't much of a difference, I would have just used what I had.. but I'll take everyone's advice and go with what works.

It's funny.. I have no problem with the brewing end of things.. but kegging seems so overwhelming to me! :mug:
 
I would actually do 7/8. Do you happen to have a 7/8 bit?
 
It can be a lot to take in at first. There's lots of little pieces like shanks, faucets, and the tail pieces and orings kits and all that. But once you have it all, kegging is so simple.
 
Yeah, I'm curious too - any specific reason to use a hole that's oversized for the shank? I'm going to be assembling mine soon, and I was thinking maybe a 15/16" hole just so I could squeeze in some silicone caulk around each shank... Overkill?
 
What a comedy of errors that was! First of all, I was cleaning the cornys that I have, and the guy that sold them to me, had put the posts on the wrong side in/out. Gas disconnect got stuck on what I thought was the in post.. but was the out. That was fun to get off.

The hold saw I bought, was for wood/plastic I guess, and I broke it trying to drill through. Ended up finishing with a spade bit, and worked fine.

The line clamps that were sent were some crazy "ear clamp", that I was unable to operate. I'm going to buy some regular clamps today.

Turns out my fridge will only hold one corny and a 10lb co2 tank. Guess I'm moving it outside.

Tried force carbing.. and have nothing but foam. I'm going back to the drawing board.
 
How'd you force carb? When did you start? Even force carving takes time. Also, what is your beer line length?
 
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