Anheuser-Busch responds
I am writing this letter in response to Fred Eckhardtâs column in the March issue of All About Beer. In the column, Mr. Eckhardt makes several direct references to Anheuser- Buschâs brewing practices and to our position on contract brewing which are inaccurate, and I would like to provide clarification for your readers. Furthermore, while we agree with Mr. Eckhardtâs right to state his opinions, we take exception when anyone spreads false information or fails to check facts when writing about Budweiser or any of our beers. The fact is we use a traditional process when brewing Budweiser, and we go to great lengths to ensure the quality and consistency of all of our beers.
We never have claimed that beechwood aging takes place in beechwood barrels -- our beer is aged in stainless steel vessels (which are not glass-lined.) Beechwood aging is a traditional European brewing process in which chips of beechwood are layered in the bottom of the lagering tank before the tank is filled with beer, and before the beer is kraeusened.
The Budweiser lagering process involves cooling and transferring nearly end-fermented beer to a closed lagering tank in which clean beechwood chips have been layered on the bottom. A special kraeusen brew, that is actively fermenting, is added immediately. The addition of 15 percent kraeusen allows a secondary fermentation to take place, which creates natural carbonation.
It is crucial that kraeusen is added immediately after Budweiser is put in a lager tank. This marks the beginning of the aging period. Our beers, like traditional German lagers, are aged substantially longer than the column suggests. For example, Budweiser is aged, or lagered, with beechwood chips for approximately 3 weeks, a longer period than used by many brewers.
Many old-world brewers used beechwood chips instead of other types of wood because beechwood is low in phenolics and resins that otherwise would impart woody flavor to the beer. These chips are boiled in water and baking soda-and not soda ash-before use. Having a latticework of beechwood chips on the bottom of our lager tanks allows our lager yeast to settle over the wood instead of creating layers at the bottom of the vessel. This in turn allows a greater amount of yeast contact with aging beer, which ensures complete fermentation, natural carbonation and flavor maturation.
It is inaccurate to equate beechwood aging with fining. Fining refers to a process of adding a substance (such as isinglass) to the beer as it is aging or being stored. As the fining agent settles to the bottom of the vessel, its natural charge attracts yeast cells and particulate matter, thus enhancing clarification of the beer. At Anheuser-Busch, we do not use fining agents. Our lengthy lagering process allows plenty of time for the beer to clarify, with yeast settling naturally onto the beechwood at the bottom of the vessel.
Regarding the "Dateline NBC" story, Mr. Eckhardt quite simply missed the point. We donât take issue with contract brewing-we just think beer drinkers have the right to know who really brews their beer. We, along with many other traditional brewers and beer enthusiasts, object to those who mislead consumers by marketing their beers as "craft brewed," when in fact their beers are made in large breweries.
At Anheuser-Busch, we are very proud of our traditional brewing techniques and the quality ingredients used in brewing Budweiser, and all of our beers. Our dedicated team of brewmasters is involved in every step of the brewing process, from grains to finished beer, and like any brewer we object when our brewing techniques are misrepresented.
We enjoy talking about our beers and our brewing process, and if any of your readers would like to learn more about how Budweiser is brewed or about our beechwood aging process, we invite them to visit any of our 12 U.S. breweries, which are located in St. Louis; Newark, New Jersey; Los Angeles; Houston; Columbus, Ohio; Jacksonville, Florida; Merrimack, New Hampshire; Williamsburg, Virginia; Fairfield, California; Baldwinsville, New York; Fort Collins, Colorado; and Cartersville, Georgia.
We also invite readers to visit one of our three Budweiser Mobile Beer Schools that now are touring the country, or to log in to
www.hopnotes.com -- one of our internet sites -- where I would be happy to answer any additional questions personally through our "Ask the Brewmaster" section.
Thank you for the opportunity to set the record straight.
Sincerely,
Mitch Steele
Brewmaster, Anheuser-Busch, Inc.
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