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Brutus Ten ????

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HarvInSTL said:
Care to elaborate?

I ordered two 4" thermowells yesterday (wednesday) and they shipped today (thursday) and will be here on monday.

If you got exactly what you wanted on time with no problems, be thankful and walk away cautiously. Trust me, the owner of that place is a horrid b!tch that would rather beat you over the head with the parts you're trying to order than to answer any reasonable questions you might try to ask on the phone.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=37406
 
Bobby_M said:
If you got exactly what you wanted on time with no problems, be thankful and walk away cautiously. Trust me, the owner of that place is a horrid b!tch that would rather beat you over the head with the parts you're trying to order than to answer any reasonable questions you might try to ask on the phone.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=37406

Sorry to hear that you and others had problems. Most places offer either low prices or great customer service. Very rarely can you find a place that offers both.

Two 4" thermowells for $18 was a price that no other online store could come close to, and I guess count me one of the lucky ones because they shipped the order the next day and I had them when they said I would.
 
I've been toying with the idea of using a plate chiller as a HERMS exchanger as I have written elsewhere. I spoke to John Blichmann, and he thought it would work, but require extra cleaning and void the warranty. I'm going to experiment with it anyway. I still plan to complete my Brutus with controls on the MLT and HLT, but am tinkering with some HERMS concepts for the rig too. While I was brewing my EF clone today, I thought of an idea that would be kind of cool if the plate chiller idea doesn't pan out. I thought about building a convoluted coil and a Jamil type whirlpool tube into one of the lids. Same elbows and QD's as Lonnie Mac. This self contained exchanger/whirlpooler could be used as a HERMS coil with a built in agitator for temperature consistency around the coil. Additionally, it could be transferred to the boil kettle for whirlpooling and cold break creation, prior to draining through the plate chiller. Of course the plate chiller is not necessary at this point, but I have one. My question is at what temperature does the "cold break" occur? All of this only works with two pumps of course, which is an integral part of the Brutus design. I'm not bailing out on DFM, but just considering some options as I enjoy my brew day.

Probably won't do any of it. :) But maybe.
 
Finalizing enclosure location. I am wondering how hot the panel arm gets during HLT burner fire. I am considering welding box on side of frame at angle instead of on the arm, but am concerned with heat issue. Basically need to know how hot the top frame gets in the front right corner.

Thanks
KD
 
I would second this request for information. I must be about 1-2 weeks behind korndog on construction/assembly of my single tier 'Brutus' design. Debating whether or not i need to put a heat shield between the frame and the control box.

I am using a NEMA 14 enclosure. It is watertight, but i couldn't find a heat rating.

By the way, if anyone is using mild/black steel instead of stainless and is looking to paint their stand. I found this site with decent prices on high temp paint as well as a variety of colors. For those of you that cant walk into a Home Depot or Lowes, that is.. http://www.northlineexpress.com/category/high-temp-paint.asp
 
I ordered these for my burners. Do I have to use a low pressure regulator or can I use a standard 20-30psi regulator?

We have pressure tested my gas beam to 125PSI which should be more than enough.

NoClueBrewMaster said:
it would be pretty sweet if someone scanned the brutus article from BYO and posted it...

That might break at least one copyright law.

It is $7 shipped and will most likely be by far the cheapest investment when building a Brutus or Brutus clone.
 
agreed... I was thinking about the laws while typing it. However with the inherent nature of the internet, personal property as well as intellectual property rights have flown right out the window...
 
NoClueBrewMaster said:
it would be pretty sweet if someone scanned the brutus article from BYO and posted it...
Lonnie will give it to you if you ask nicely. PM him. His SN is Lonnie Mac or you can email him from the alenuts.com website.
 
HarvInSTL said:
That might break at least one copyright law.

It is $7 shipped and will most likely be by far the cheapest investment when building a Brutus or Brutus clone.

Lonnie Mac sent me his document and I also purchased the BYO back issue for $5 per Lonnie's request. Two for one..and I helped support BYO also. Seemed like the right thing to do.
 
MNBugeater said:
I would second this request for information. I must be about 1-2 weeks behind korndog on construction/assembly of my single tier 'Brutus' design. Debating whether or not i need to put a heat shield between the frame and the control box.

I am using a NEMA 14 enclosure. It is watertight, but i couldn't find a heat rating.

By the way, if anyone is using mild/black steel instead of stainless and is looking to paint their stand. I found this site with decent prices on high temp paint as well as a variety of colors. For those of you that cant walk into a Home Depot or Lowes, that is.. http://www.northlineexpress.com/category/high-temp-paint.asp

BTW, if anyone is lookinng for a stainless steel enclosure, this ebay vendor has lots of good stuff and will negotiate. Here is a nice looking box that can be picked up cheap for SS.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HOFFMAN-12X8-ST...yZ111612QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
 
MNBugeater said:
Lonnie Mac sent me his document and I also purchased the BYO back issue for $5 per Lonnie's request. Two for one..and I helped support BYO also. Seemed like the right thing to do.

I sub to BYO and Lonnie had no issue sending me his copy as well. Now if I could find his paypal address I'd send him some money!

When you are building a system that could cost $2000+, $7 doesn't seem like a lot.
 
I have no issue paying for them. 7 bucks is not much to me. If (and when hopefully) I decide to build a beast like this, I would much rather pay for the rights to the plans than hack it. I was more so curious about if it had been posted at some point so I could see what you guys are building. Pictures of the build have been helpful, however a blue print of things going together is much better for me ( I work in Engineering)

I'll have to send him a PM at some point...
 
Hello Brutus builders.
I am deciding on where to put my enclosure with the control panel. Does anyone have any words of wisdom on this. I am particularly interested in the temperatures near the HLT. I think I am going to mount the box on the right side of the unit, bolted to the frame. I was wondering how much heat people are experiencing near this corner of the unit. Thanks for your help.

KD

Edit: Does anyone know if Nomex heat shield tape would help here?
 
Are Lonnie's original plans more in-depth than the BYO article??? I have the mag, but was wondering how it compared to the original.

BTW, my brother and I started our build this week - got the stand done....doing Big Brother Brutus....
All vessels are 1 barrel (31 gal.) kegs!
I never had even seen one....but thankfully a family member kinda collects stainless steel stuff like some people collect stamps! and has been for years and years.
He also has stainless 55 gal drums, that are the same diameter, so I will have the capability to upgrade to that size in the future if necessary. Seems like the 1 barrel system outta be enough to keep us in beer for now, though....

Will post pics when I get a chance.
:ban:
 
sleepystevenson said:
Are Lonnie's original plans more in-depth than the BYO article??? I have the mag, but was wondering how it compared to the original.

:ban:

Yes, they are a bit more detailed. More pictures and diagrams with dimensions. It's worth finding if you are going to use all of Lonnie Mac's design features.

KD
 
Mirilis said:
If i can get a deal on 1.5 in square tubing will it work just fine even with the gas manifold? Or is the 2 in way better?


IMHO 2" is overkill....especially the 1/8" thickness I used, but it sure looks great. 1.5" will work just fine
 
i got a decent price on 1.5 inch, 14 gauge for 1.75 a foot.. so now im steel ready and workin.. if i get the stand started before my wedding ill try and post some build pictures.

I need to read BYO again but did it go into detail on the arm for the control panel? Do i save a piece for that or use like an angle iron? I want to use a box for my panel cause im clumsy and would rip the wires out the back. But im still a ways away from that... i have to find a good deal on valves and love controllers first.
 
Mirilis said:
I need to read BYO again but did it go into detail on the arm for the control panel? Do i save a piece for that or use like an angle iron? I want to use a box for my panel cause im clumsy and would rip the wires out the back. But im still a ways away from that... i have to find a good deal on valves and love controllers first.

The article has detail on the arm. It shows a diagram with the angle and dimensions.
It's cut from frame material. I am using a box as well, and and am exploring other options for location and positioning.
 
korndog said:
The article has detail on the arm. It shows a diagram with the angle and dimensions.
It's cut from frame material. I am using a box as well, and and am exploring other options for location and positioning.

When you decide on yours can you take some build pics of your location, it may help me decide mine when i get to it.
 
Mirilis said:
When you decide on yours can you take some build pics of your location, it may help me decide mine when i get to it.

Sure thing. I'm trying to balance functionality with aesthetics, and it's proving to be a bit of a challenge. I'll post them soon.
 
For any of you guys that might be using Lonnie's plans to wire up the Love controls, be aware that the Manufacturer changed the connections around so his wiring diagram doesn't work on 2008 units.

Linc
 
Mirilis said:
I need to read BYO again but did it go into detail on the arm for the control panel? Do i save a piece for that or use like an angle iron? I want to use a box for my panel cause im clumsy and would rip the wires out the back. But im still a ways away from that... i have to find a good deal on valves and love controllers first.

I'm with you on the box versus panel. Alot of people went with boxes. I picked up a NEMA rated control box on eBay for <$20 as have many people, just watch for them. Its a whole lot cheaper than a piece of stainless and safer to have all your wires enclosed also.

As far as the valves and controllers... I'm not sure anyone has found the LOVE controllers any cheaper than from Cole Parmer other than scoring some on eBay or used. The valve conversation is a lengthy one and somewhat debated as to what valves really SHOULD be used for this application. One thing is for sure, unless you are building your stand entirely stainless, which by the sounds of your $1.75/ft steel it isn't, then you don't need stainless valves. I would go with brass. ASCO makes them and there are several threads with all the part numbers. I went with STC, which i found to be cheaper. I got them new for around $36/per. Final note on the gas issue, again a debated one, consider a pilot safety valve if you are going to have standing pilots. The extra valves needed to create an automatic shutoff are $15-$20 on eBay and to me the $40 was a worthwhile safety precaution. Some say that if unless you are going to walk away from your stand for long periods, then they really arent needed cause youll know if your pilot goes out, but for me, the little extra was worth the safety. And I can't see the pilot light when i have 15 gallon kettles covering them up.

I am mid build also and am starting to take pics along the way. I'll get them posted here soon. Hope to finish my control box this weekend.

MNBugeater
 
MNBugeater said:
I'm with you on the box versus panel. Alot of people went with boxes. I picked up a NEMA rated control box on eBay for <$20 as have many people, just watch for them. Its a whole lot cheaper than a piece of stainless and safer to have all your wires enclosed also.
MNBugeater

I found some good deals on stainless boxes on eBay if you are building SS unit. Agree that pilot safety is a cheap security measure. Here is a nifty little box I am using to house my spark ignition modules. Waterproof cord grip fitting on right from Mcmaster for spark wire. Need to drill left side. Did I mention that I hate drilling into stainless steel? Let me say it.

I HATE DRILLING INTO STAINLESS STEEL!

IMG_0124.jpg
 
korndog said:
I found some good deals on stainless boxes on eBay if you are building SS unit. Agree that pilot safety is a cheap security measure. Here is a nifty little box I am using to house my spark ignition modules. Waterproof cord grip fitting on right from Mcmaster for spark wire. Need to drill left side. Did I mention that I hate drilling into stainless steel? Let me say it.

I HATE DRILLING INTO STAINLESS STEEL!

Linky please, I need a couple :mug:
Do you have the McMaster number too?
 
For those folks trying to drill stainless steel, pay the money to purchase cobalt bits otherwise you will burn up the carbon steel bits after a couple holes. If you are using hole saws fill the inside of hole saw with a sponge and soak sponge in water, this will feed water to the cutting edge and keep saw teeth from burning up.
 
SuperiorBrew said:
Linky please, I need a couple :mug:
Do you have the McMaster number too?

Strange. I can't find any listings from toomanyamps on ebay right now. I would check later for that seller. that's the guy I bought the 12X4 1/2 and the 12X8 from. 12X4 1/2 fits two spark modules, and the 12X8 is perfect for panel. Mcmaster Carr cord grips are on pages 811, 812, 813. Lot's of varieties including SS at 47 bucks a copy! I went for nylon, including flex ends for the Love probes coming out of the box. Cool item.
 
I am about ready to pull the wires through the frame and have little experience with fish tapes. Can someone give me some advise as to what sized tape to use and tips for making the bends through the holes at the bends? I tried using a borrowed 1/4" tape but had no luck so far.

Thanks
KD
 
so im not very electro friendly and ive read and re-read the electric part of the article... but does anyone have a picture showing the guts of their box? im a ways away from this point as i just got my steel a few days ago.. but i gotta think about something else as i wait for my handy beer drinkin friends to help with cutting and welding.
 
I had an idea for the returns to the vessels and thought I would share it with you.
I am going to use corrugated water heater flex for my return tubes in the lids. You can get them stainless or copper and adjust height and direction easily. This should work for whirlpool line and mash return manold, which can rest directly on top of the mash and be adjusted for height. Here are picture of flex and my mash return manifold.

falconstainlessimage.jpg


return_manifold.jpg
 
I think i may have found a couple cheap asco valves.. only a few hours left on ebay auction but i want to make sure that they will work fine.. they are model

Item: Lot of 2 ASCO 8210G93. 110vac coil

Will these work just fine?
 
Mirilis said:
I think i may have found a couple cheap asco valves.. only a few hours left on ebay auction but i want to make sure that they will work fine.. they are model

Item: Lot of 2 ASCO 8210G93. 110vac coil

Will these work just fine?

Those are 3/8" and they are not rated for fuel gas. They will likely work since most guys are using general purpose valves, but if you want to get valves specifically for fuel gas, you need to go to the 8210g074 or 75. That's what I know, but some other guys can chime in on the general purpose valves.

KD
 
I am still looking for 1 more Asco 8210G075 if anyone knows of a good source. The cheapest I found one was $154 :(
 
After reading a ton of posts and getting lots of good info I am about done with my new rig.

All that is really left is caping the tubing ends. I question if I will ever get around to it since I have brewed 4 batches on it and it is working great as is.

rig.JPG

tip.JPG

chiller.JPG

pumps.JPG
 

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