Briess synergy select "maltgems"Pilsner malt

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Dland

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I just got 50#s of this, reading the fine print, says lots of good sounding stuff, but also says part of hulls removed.

One of the things I was wondering is how reduced hull volume will affect mash permeability and sparging characteristics. I already use rye malt in some brews, so I have rice hulls on hand.

Anyone here brew with this stuff? I'll be trying it soon, and will post results. If anyone has already used this, would be good to hear how it worked out for you. Thanks.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/briess-maltgems-pilsen-malt-50-lb-sack.html
 
I just picked up 20# as well. I didn't really have a specific use in mind when I ordered it, just a general notion to use it as a base for a light Continental lager. It piqued my interest, and I like to experiment. How are you planning to utilize it? The crush looks a bit finer than the gap setting of my mill though that could be due to lack of husks. I'll probably use 70% as much as my normal grain bill since the yield is supposed to be 30% higher.

Brooo Brother
 
Wait - this Breiss grain is pre-crushed from the malt house?

Cheers! 🤨

Yeah, they crush and then separate the majority of the husks from the grist. So you get proportionately more sweet wort per pound of grain, and supposedly no reduction in laundering ability. I mash in a Braumeister and usually don't sparge since there is constant recirculation (high efficiency in a full volume mash). "Fountaining" can be an issue with this setup since recirc is bottom up, so hopefully the grain bed won't be too compact and I'll still get good flow and extraction.

Brooo Brother
 
I did not realize it was milled, might not have bought it, but it did qualify for free shipping, even though a full 50#s. It was going into regular stock rotation, but I guess I'll use first,, even though it just arrived. We will see how it does in 3 vessel rig w fly sparge this weekend.

I use pilsner as base malt, 50% of grist usually, in lagers, blonde ales, cream ales, etc. Might try first batch at 100% just to get to know it, that will use 20# right there.
 
I've never heard of this and there are no reviews on the site. Is this a brand new product? The price seems good, and it seems like you need to use fewer pounds of this compared to regular base malt - so you get more for your money. I'm assuming you'd need to do some trial and error to see how it differs from their regular base malt though?

If a few people make good beer from it, then I may need to buy a sack. The description makes it sound good for my Blonde Ale.
 
I have bought a few 50# bags of this already and it has never been crushed unless maltgems is some other option I have never seen.
 
I did not realize it was milled, might not have bought it, but it did qualify for free shipping, even though a full 50#s. It was going into regular stock rotation, but I guess I'll use first,, even though it just arrived. We will see how it does in 3 vessel rig w fly sparge this weekend.

I use pilsner as base malt, 50% of grist usually, in lagers, blonde ales, cream ales, etc. Might try first batch at 100% just to get to know it, that will use 20# right there.

Yeah, blond ale with a base of this grain would probably make a great beer. Also a cream ale. I've recently 'kicked' kegs of pils and Coor's Light clone and am in need of a lawnmower beer. Maybe Yooper's or Biermuncher's recipe would be good as well.
 
I have bought a few 50# bags of this already and it has never been crushed unless maltgems is some other option I have never seen.

The Breiss website describes MaltGems as "custom milled in small batches", "crafted by removing the majority of husk, fine grit and flour from our milled Synergy Select Pilsen Malt".

Are you sure it was MaltGems (tm) and not one of the Breiss premium malts?
 
According to the Morebeer site it is not milled. But on the Briess website they say it is milled and you should not mill it again. I didn't realize this either when I ordered, just needed some base malt and jumped on free shipping for 50 pound sacks at this price and grabbed 4 of them. Hope I like it :bigmug:
 
According to the Morebeer site it is not milled. But on the Briess website they say it is milled and you should not mill it again. I didn't realize this either when I ordered, just needed some base malt and jumped on free shipping for 50 pound sacks at this price and grabbed 4 of them. Hope I like it :bigmug:

When I ordered (2 weeks ago) the only online vendor I found was Northern Brewer. I haven't been ordering from them lately but went ahead and rolled the dice. My "go to" for mail order is usually More Beer but I didn't see it there. If I'd seen 50# sacks with free shipping I'd have jumped on it.

Brooo Brother
 
I can confirm the 50# bag I just got from morebeer is milled. It looks to be a somewaht fine crush, but not powdery.
 
I have bought a few 50# bags of this already and it has never been crushed unless maltgems is some other option I have never seen.

MaltGems is a new thing...they take Synergy pils, crush, and then filter out a lot of the husk and smaller bits. I'm afraid of stocking it because it HAS to come pre-crushed and I don't like any grain on the shelf with that short of a useable window.
 
I've never heard of this and there are no reviews on the site. Is this a brand new product? The price seems good, and it seems like you need to use fewer pounds of this compared to regular base malt - so you get more for your money. I'm assuming you'd need to do some trial and error to see how it differs from their regular base malt though?

If a few people make good beer from it, then I may need to buy a sack. The description makes it sound good for my Blonde Ale.

I didn't see a specific % point but I would say it's probably 10% if not more concentrated by weight due to the loss of husk material. I definitely want to try some at some point but I'm reticent to stock pre-milled grain. Husk or not oxygen is still getting in there
 
Screen Shot 2020-08-04 at 5.10.01 PM.png


What you see on the right is what you get when you buy this
 
Yup, that is what it looks like.

Anyone know specifics as to storeability of pre ground malt vs un ground? Have never bought pre milled before, wondering how fast I should try to use. I guess it might be LIFO, in accounting terms, stock rotation wise..
 
I buy base malt by the bag, but regularly use a just few different malts - Golden Promise, Weyermann Pilsner, and Breiss Two-Row Pale. Occasionally I'll pick up something different to try out - eg: bought some Valley Malt floor malted two row recently. I would not want to have to manage pre-milled grain in my workflow because one has to believe the degradation is greatly accelerated vs unmilled malt.

And to what end that couldn't be equaled with a bit more "fresh" base malt? Seems to me removing flour will actually lower yield at some modest (if any) improvement of lauterability (totally depends on their crush), but even that is likely nullified by the husk reduction.

Nope. I don't get it...

Cheers!
 
Here is Briess' website promoting the product:
https://maltgems.brewingwithbriess....dJCpSOct4JRhQw-tafW-22-e9SrhXf3hoC11MQAvD_BwE
This powerpoint is pretty interesting:
https://maltgems.brewingwithbriess....ng-the-Heart-of-the-Malt-for-Clean-Flavor.pdf
Interesting theories on reason to reduce husk (color, polyphenols) and flour (acrospire content).

Lautering performance looks pretty appealing for traditional lauter/sparge techniques at commercial craft scale (3-10 BBL described). No data presented on whether this would be helpful in BIAB at homebrew scale but the crush seems larger than most BIABers on HBT recommend. I'm a traditional 3 vessel brewer and am pretty excited about the potential of reduced grain water absorption and increased density (I'm almost always brewing pretty close to the limit of my mash tun).

As for the downside of storing crushed grain I guess I will be the one to find out. The 4 sacks on their way to me should last about 5-6 months over 6-7 batches. Will just have to see how that impacts the beer. My guess is un opened sacks of grain have a decent shelf life so my plan is to leave them un opened until needed and then transfer what I don't use into gamma lid sealed storage containers.
 
I'm going to order a sack on Friday. I store my base malt in buckets with air tight gamma lids so I won't worry too much about the effect of oxygen on flavor. I BIAB, recently having switched to a coarser crush and did not experience any loss in efficiency. If necessary I can run this stuff through the mill if I see any issues because I suspect that Briess advises against crushing a second time to avoid stuck sparge, etc. in a conventional lautering system.
 
If im understanding the presentation correctly, this is a malt geared towards brewers who want to either reduce their water usage, since less husk will be absorbing water, or brewers looking to brew higher gravity beers and or increase the amount of beer they can brew on their system. Am I missing anything?
 
If im understanding the presentation correctly, this is a malt geared towards brewers who want to either reduce their water usage, since less husk will be absorbing water, or brewers looking to brew higher gravity beers and or increase the amount of beer they can brew on their system. Am I missing anything?

It's supposed to present as a lighter flavor profile with less astringency and less husk flavor
 
If im understanding the presentation correctly, this is a malt geared towards brewers who want to either reduce their water usage, since less husk will be absorbing water, or brewers looking to brew higher gravity beers and or increase the amount of beer they can brew on their system. Am I missing anything?

It's not about saving water because water is precious. It's about brewhouse efficiency since less water should be retained in the grain bed and all the water retained in the grain bed contains sugars that didn't make it to the kettle.

It is also about getting a different flavor profile from the malt since you are not mashing with the husks or acrospires. They are claiming a "unique clean flavor" attributing i guess to not including husk, rootlets and acrospires into the mash...I'm hoping it is not them working really hard to turn a negative into a positive--perhaps those components contribute a flavor character we expect in a well made beer. Like a touch of sulfur in some lagers.
 
Yup, that is what it looks like.

Anyone know specifics as to storeability of pre ground malt vs un ground? Have never bought pre milled before, wondering how fast I should try to use. I guess it might be LIFO, in accounting terms, stock rotation wise..

That's a concern of course. When I make a bulk purchase I separate the grain into smaller units and then vacuum seal them (like a 50# bag separated into 5 x 10# vacuum bags). The potential problem with the MaltGems is that not only are the grains milled at the vendor, but they're milled at the malthouse. Might be a couple of months (or more) between milling and mashing. I brewed today but not with the MaltGems. I'll prolly brew with them in the next few days however. Thinkin' it'll be a blond ale.

Brooo Brother
 
That's a concern of course. When I make a bulk purchase I separate the grain into smaller units and then vacuum seal them (like a 50# bag separated into 5 x 10# vacuum bags). The potential problem with the MaltGems is that not only are the grains milled at the vendor, but they're milled at the malthouse. Might be a couple of months (or more) between milling and mashing. I brewed today but not with the MaltGems. I'll prolly brew with them in the next few days however. Thinkin' it'll be a blond ale.

Brooo Brother
Vacuum bagging in smaller quantities is a great idea, thanks.
 
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I'm going to order a sack on Friday. I store my base malt in buckets with air tight gamma lids so I won't worry too much about the effect of oxygen on flavor. I BIAB, recently having switched to a coarser crush and did not experience any loss in efficiency. If necessary I can run this stuff through the mill if I see any issues because I suspect that Briess advises against crushing a second time to avoid stuck sparge, etc. in a conventional lautering system.

I'm wondering if the unopened factory sealed bags are better or worse container than the homer buckets with gamma seals. These new grain sacks I'm seeing lately seem pretty well made.
 
It's not about saving water because water is precious. It's about brewhouse efficiency since less water should be retained in the grain bed and all the water retained in the grain bed contains sugars that didn't make it to the kettle.

It is also about getting a different flavor profile from the malt since you are not mashing with the husks or acrospires. They are claiming a "unique clean flavor" attributing i guess to not including husk, rootlets and acrospires into the mash...I'm hoping it is not them working really hard to turn a negative into a positive--perhaps those components contribute a flavor character we expect in a well made beer. Like a touch of sulfur in some lagers.
gotcha, and agree with you on the last point.
This seems like a product that would be more attractive to a commercial brewery trying to maximize efficiency. On a homebrew scale, Im not sure I see the draw.
 
It's supposed to present as a lighter flavor profile with less astringency and less husk flavor
this is what would spark my interest. Although I cant imagine a lighter flavor that the standard Briess Pils malt. It is the lighter colored and flavored pils I have ever brewed with.
 
I'm wondering if the unopened factory sealed bags are better or worse container than the homer buckets with gamma seals. These new grain sacks I'm seeing lately seem pretty well made.
That's a really good question. Coincidentally, my neighbor who is a doctor of chemistry was over one day drinking beers in the garage when I started pinning up my empty grain sacks on the wall; he grabbed one and started busting out details about the bag construction, material thickness, stitching, etc. I think he used to work for a company that manufactures that type of packaging when he was in college. He called out a big difference in quality/specification between the different brands. IIRC, he liked Bestmalz and Avangard (Cargill) sacks over Castle and Dingemann's. When I get my sack of maltgems, I'll ask him what he thinks of the bag. I would expect that pre-crushed grains come in premium level packaging in order to extend the shelf life.
 
Even if the bags are thicker material there is still air incursion where they are stitched shut because it's just thread.

Weyermann probably has the best protection due to their inner liner; the bags that Briess uses for their smoked malts is pretty damn thick but I have no idea what these come in.
 
OK, first report, in case anyone is ordering grain this morning, just mashed in w 100% of this new malt.

The crush is finer than I would mill it, probably about right for BIAB brewers actually. It is too fine for the false bottom in my mash tun..which is regular type with the holes. Since I do not have any brew bags, or whatever they call them, I improvised by breaking handle off a kitchen strainer and putting it over the hole in bottom of tun (iverted keggle type). Seems to be working so far, hope it stays in place, or this is going to be fun.

It is true that it absorbs less water. I usually mash in with about 6.75 gallons for 20#s, but I only put in 6, and could have used less, probably.

Anyway, more updates when after the wort is in fermentor.
 
Aside from the storage and transport time issues, seems interesting and worth a test batch. Gotta finish the sack of two row I just ordered tho so gonna be a while. Looking forward to updates.
 
Brew day went well, other than the crush being too fine for false bottom, everything worked as it should. Found out that a cheap 5 inch stainless kitchen sieve works OK for false bottom, no issues with stuck mash or grist in pump, if anything percolation was better than average.

Color is what one would expect for a good pils malt, extraction a little better than average. I got about 1.060 starting gravity out of 20#s for approx 10+ gallons of wort. That is on the normal to high side of efficiency for my rig. Wort tastes good, no reason to believe it will not beer really good beer.

I don't see why this won't keep fairly well in sealed bags. It is shipped in a sack that is two heavy layers of paper, and one of plastic. I guess it might not store as well as un milled malt over long term, but am not too worried about it.
 
Brew day went well, other than the crush being too fine for false bottom, everything worked as it should. Found out that a cheap 5 inch stainless kitchen sieve works OK for false bottom, no issues with stuck mash or grist in pump, if anything percolation was better than average.

Color is what one would expect for a good pils malt, extraction a little better than average. I got about 1.060 starting gravity out of 20#s for approx 10+ gallons of wort. That is on the normal to high side of efficiency for my rig. Wort tastes good, no reason to believe it will not beer really good beer.

I don't see why this won't keep fairly well in sealed bags. It is shipped in a sack that is two heavy layers of paper, and one of plastic. I guess it might not store as well as un milled malt over long term, but am not too worried about it.

Thanks for the update. I'll be brewing with MaltGems tomorrow, starting out simple and basic: a Blonde Ale using 89% base grain with the remainder split equally with carapils and 20L crystal. The rest of the bill is 28 IBUs of Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy and a pitch of Imperial 09 Pub yeast. My mash setup is a Braumeister continuous circulation and temperature control. I replaced the top and bottom screens (false "bottoms") with Swiss voile material like what I used when I did BIAB mashing. It traps EVERYTHING and never seems to clog, so I'm not anticipating any issues with the crush size. My plan is to brew a normal (for me) process and then see how much more efficiency I get with the husk-free grist. Target O.G is 1.042, so it'll be interesting to see if/how much higher the measured O.G. comes out. This experimental Blonde may end up an APA instead.
 
...a Blonde Ale using 89% base grain with the remainder split equally with carapils and 20L crystal. The rest of the bill is 28 IBUs of Citra, Mosaic and Galaxy and a pitch of Imperial 09 Pub yeast.
I really like the way you wrote this recipe, a bit long for a haiku but poetic nonetheless. I'm going to try this myself when I get my hands on some malt gems.
 
Brew day went well, other than the crush being too fine for false bottom, everything worked as it should. Found out that a cheap 5 inch stainless kitchen sieve works OK for false bottom, no issues with stuck mash or grist in pump, if anything percolation was better than average.

Color is what one would expect for a good pils malt, extraction a little better than average. I got about 1.060 starting gravity out of 20#s for approx 10+ gallons of wort. That is on the normal to high side of efficiency for my rig. Wort tastes good, no reason to believe it will not beer really good beer.

I don't see why this won't keep fairly well in sealed bags. It is shipped in a sack that is two heavy layers of paper, and one of plastic. I guess it might not store as well as un milled malt over long term, but am not too worried about it.
Thanks for the update I was worried about the packaging as all I can see right now is the outer most paper sack. Glad to hear there is more to it I’ll stick with my plan to open one sack at a time, brew, and put remains in gamma seal lidded buckets. My rig uses NorCal false bottom and a wilser bag with continous recirc. This grain sounds perfect for me excited to try it out.
 
I'll be brewing with MaltGems tomorrow, starting out simple and basic: a Blonde Ale using 89% base grain with the remainder split equally with carapils and 20L crystal.

Quoting and updating myself: yesterday's brew session didn't go as smoothly as I had hoped. Like a Charles Dickens novel, "It was the best of times, it was the worst of times."

The "best": the spreadsheet I built to accurately track and predict wort volumes through every stage from mash-in to boil to final volume into the fermenter worked beyond my wildest expectations, accurately predicting to the nearest tenth of a liter and converting it to gallons, so I've finally got that phase dialed in to my equipment profile. Before I'd only had a rough estimate and never really knew what volume was in the fermenter since I pump from the kettle into a sealed stainless steel conical (no sight glass, pressure vessel). My predicted O.G was 1.043, Actual was 1.042. Predicted volume was 7.31 gallons, Actual was 7.3 gallons. The biggest surprise was where the losses were occurring, as well as where they were not.

The "Worst:"
the mash was a physical and logistical nightmare. About half way through the Beta amylase step I started hearing a splashing noise underneath the mash cap. Bad sign. The way my Braumeister works is a malt pipe (open cylinder) is placed into the kettle with screens on the bottom and on the top with the grist inside the malt pipe. The screens keep the grain contained. The strike water is added (under letted) into the kettle. Water flows into the grain bed through the bottom screen and into the surrounding area between the outside of the malt pipe and the interior wall of the kettle. The electric heating elements are located at the bottom of the kettle, outside of the bottom of the malt pipe. An internal pump draws heated water from around the heating elements and then introduces it to the void underneath the bottom screen of the malt pipe. So circulating wort flows up through the grain bed and out through the top screen to cascade down to the heating elements to be pumped through the grain once again at the programmed temperature.

It's an extremely efficient mash process with numbers regularly in the high 88% range, even without sparging. Over the years I've figured the best gap setting for my grain mill is 1.6 mm, fine enough to achieve these numbers without causing stuck flow. It looks like the MaltGems is significantly smaller than this. My concern with this grain was keeping it contained and not passing through the screens. I focused on the wrong thing. The grain bed had gotten compacted to such an extent that it had blocked the flow through the screens. The wort was being forced between the seal at the top of the malt pipe and the top screen causing extreme fountaining and horizontal geysers. Tiny grain bits were everywhere inside and outside the malt pipe. I quickly suspended the mash to assess the damage. It soon became apparent that the only course of action was to drain the kettle, get the grains out of the malt pipe, clean everything, and start over where the mash had been suspended.

Thank goodness I never got rid of all the old brew buckets that have been collecting dust and taking up space for the last several years. Clean, sanitize, rinse, repeat. Literally. Obviously my best laid plans for LoDO were out the window. So I cleaned up all the old gear, got the wort into two plastic buckets and the grains into another. Then I had to clean the Braumeister, malt pipe, screens, etc. I also had to disassemble and clean the pump and the plumbing between the kettle wall and the bottom screen which had gotten crammed full with grist. I feel lucky that I didn't burn up the pump. All this work is tedious enough on a good day, let alone twice along with all the old plastic stuff. Finally after scrubbing and sanitizing and reassembling everything it was time to get the grains back into the malt pipe. Fortunately I had a partial bag of rice hulls on hand to help loosen up the grist a bit, so I chucked in about 4 hands-full where I would have normally put in one or two at most. It partially filled the void left by the 1~1.5 pounds of grain that I wasn't able to salvage. Then I poured the wort into the repacked grain bed, thinking that the bed would filter the massive amount of grain that was still in the wort and trap it in the malt pipe. That actually worked very nicely, so now with the top filter screen in place and mostly grain-free wort in the kettle, I took a deep breath and restarted the mash.

After a few minutes of recirculation I began to get some return of the fountaining, but greatly reduced from before. There was some minor splashing which is bad for LoDO, but was within acceptable limits otherwise, so apparently the rice hulls were doing their job. For the most part the grains were staying inside the malt pipe and not getting blown out into the space between the malt pipe and the heating element/pump inlet. This whole fiasco cost me a two-hour extension to my brew day and a stiff back this morning.

Now the followup: After the boil was complete I chilled and whirlpooled as per normal. After settling and before transferring to the fermenter I sneaked a peek at the wort. I usually transfer "blind" to limit O2 exposure, but since that ship had already sailed I raised the lid and found 7+ gallons of the clearest wort I have ever produced. Normally I would transfer directly into the fermenter, chill down to pitching temperature, and perform a mini-trub dump of the kettle tailings that got pumped over. After three hours of chilling and settling in the fermenter, the sight glass was still clear. Usually I'll get a liter or two of murky gunk/hops/grain bits. This time, Nada. So I pitched a 1 liter starter of krausening Imperial A09 "Pub" yeast (shameless plug for JayBird's 3" Sight Glass Yeast Brink), hit it with 90 seconds of O2 through the carb stone, set the temperature to 67F, and pulled the tap on a cold pint of my Red Ale, affectionately known as "Irish Foreplay." This morning, after extracting my sore back from bed, I was rewarded with the sight of bubbles actively escaping from the blow-off line into a Mason jar of StarSan solution. "I made BEER!!"

TL;DR

So, the jury's still out, and will be for the next few weeks, to see how this will all turn out. The lack of adherence to LoDO techniques will shorten the shelf life along with other subtle degradations, but it's a Blonde Ale and it's still summertime and it's a simple beer and it'll go fast. So there's that. I hit all my brew day targets with high accuracy, though given the nature of the husk-free grain the O.G. should have been significantly higher when using "standard" guidelines for predicting "normal" malts. I hit every one of my pH marks from mash-in to post boil, so there shouldn't be any additional astringency due to the extended mashing and handling exposure. The color is very pale which is to be expected from a 90% 1.8L pilsner malt with only 10% additional grist of carapils and 20L crystal malt. Despite the pain and aggravation of yesterday's brew session, I have high hopes and expectations for this beer, and by extension this malt. In the future I'll definitely limit it to 50% or less of the grain bill and add copious amounts of rice hulls until I can get a handle on the crush size and how best to use it in my equipment.

Cheers!
 
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Sorry to hear you had so much trouble.

I had clear wort too. I found percolation good during fly sparge and vorlauf, though I would have had pump clogging problems if I had tried to use my normal false bottom.

No mash cap or hot side Lodo here, just old fashion 3 vessel fly sparge, though I do underlet the strike water, because it is easier. During sparge I keep at least a gallon on top of grist until the the end, this might help grain bed stay loose.

Your rig sounds complicated to me, but sounds like you have it dialed in, the fine crush just not a good fit.

Anyway, I ordered another 50#, since it is so inexpensive and I was impressed with flavor, and I already broke the handle off the kitchen strainer.

My other options for false bottom were a big china cap I have w some old resturaunt gear, or window screen wired on the false bottom. Glad I spotted the strainer before I went with one of those, though they may have worked OK too.
 
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