It seems to fit fine. Plus there are 2 filters, the bottom screen on the malt pipe and the false bottom... not sure how it goes through it.
Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk
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DuncB
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Does the bottom plate deform when loaded I wonder. Can you load it with dry grain and look underneath?
I'll see if I can look at a brewzilla malt pipe is brew shop today for knowledge sake.
I'll see if I can look at a brewzilla malt pipe is brew shop today for knowledge sake.
Possible but my last test ws with 2 litre of rice hulls which should be pretty light ...
Barão
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Oops....I found someone else who is having the same problem as me
Three people makes this is quorum I think?
Had similar problems myself. I now put a bag inside the malt pipe which cures the problem. Feels
like I'm compensating for a problem that shouldn't exist but it means I can get on with making beer rather than solving an engineering puzzle, no disrespect intended to those who are trying to find the cause.
like I'm compensating for a problem that shouldn't exist but it means I can get on with making beer rather than solving an engineering puzzle, no disrespect intended to those who are trying to find the cause.
Good to know that the bag "fixed" it, I have one in order as I also want to make beer and not just solve problems. But it bugs me that what I bought is not working as it should be and I want to try to figure out what is the problem in parallel.
I didn't have terrible clogging, but I did have to blow through the recirc arm a few times. I removed the T to the spigot (required a new piece of 1/2" silicone tubing) and it's been bullet proof since.
edit: I think all my clogs were from cold extract starch sludge.So perhaps not applicable to the current discussion.
edit: I think all my clogs were from cold extract starch sludge.So perhaps not applicable to the current discussion.
What did you replace it with?
Could give us more details please. My understanding would be that without the "T" you have the reccirculation arm connected directly to the pump as per the green line in my picture? And that you loose access to the spigot as per the red line?
I would be curious to try but when I was doing my test wiht just the rice hulls it seems that the elbow to the pump was the problem ...
I haven't had any clogging problems, but love to problem solve. I use the unit straight-up stock, and have made 7 batches so far. Here's some pictures and measurements. Maybe with some compares we can find something that's different. I have the G4 35L US-120V system.
Mash Process
1. Heat water to strike temp with basket sitting in unit.
2. Raise basket to mid-way foot level, which keeps the bottom of my malt pipe just out of the water. I mash at 1.25 qt/lb, so on a recent batch that was 4.76 gallons for 13.25 lbs of grain (profile has 0.66 gal of mash tun deadspace).
3. Dump all my crushed grains in the basket.
4. Lower basket into the strike water, then with a long spoon, stir it all up quite well. Slowly, making sure I don't have any clumps/dough balls hiding out anywhere. I've never actually timed this step, but I'd estimate about 5 minutes.
5. Put the upper mash screen on.
6. Lay the recirc hose on top so it makes an 'L' shape with the hose end laying on top.
7. Turn on the pump 100% duty cycle, but recirc arm ball valve closed (lever at 9 o'clock position).
8. Open recirc arm ball valve enough to get all the air bubbles out of the line (about 7 o'clock position) briefly, then close it down until I get a steady enough stream. This is obviously highly subjective, but I aim for about a "pencil diameter". Not pencil lead, but the whole pencil. I guess it roughly necks down slightly in diameter from what it would be if it was full flow. I don't want it too fast to starve the bottom of the pipe, and I don't want it too slow where I can get a stuck mash (based on experience from my 2V brewing system). This has the lever at about 8 o'clock position.
9. I run lots of step mashes. Maybe 50% of the time I'm doing 100F, 122F, 145F, 168F. Other times it will be a 148F or 156F, followed by a 168F. I use rice hulls only if I'm doing something with > 8 oz of wheat or rye. And typically I use 4 oz of rice hulls if I have maybe up to 10% of my grist with those, otherwise about 8 oz if I'm doing something "wheaty" with like 50% of those grains.
Hardware
10. As mentioned, I'm running the 120V 35L unit.
11. Stock plumbing underneath, with the T on the output of the pump, going either to the spigot or recirc arm (but I only every use spigot when cleaning/draining).
12. As mentioned, I use the top mash screen.
13. I use the full length recirc hose, and it's long enough to bend down 90-degrees and sit on the top mash screen with a length of about 4-5".
14. I have the HED (and have used this since I got the G4).
15. Pictures below, but generally a nice fit of the pump filter screen/HED that has a bit of a gap at the outer circumference when installed, but is tight when pulling it up out of the brew unit. Using feeler gauges, with the screen biased all the way to one side, I was able to measure 0.057" gap.
16. Pictures below, but an even better fit for the bottom screen on the malt pipe. Biased to one side, I measured 0.016" gap with feeler gauges.
Mash Process
1. Heat water to strike temp with basket sitting in unit.
2. Raise basket to mid-way foot level, which keeps the bottom of my malt pipe just out of the water. I mash at 1.25 qt/lb, so on a recent batch that was 4.76 gallons for 13.25 lbs of grain (profile has 0.66 gal of mash tun deadspace).
3. Dump all my crushed grains in the basket.
4. Lower basket into the strike water, then with a long spoon, stir it all up quite well. Slowly, making sure I don't have any clumps/dough balls hiding out anywhere. I've never actually timed this step, but I'd estimate about 5 minutes.
5. Put the upper mash screen on.
6. Lay the recirc hose on top so it makes an 'L' shape with the hose end laying on top.
7. Turn on the pump 100% duty cycle, but recirc arm ball valve closed (lever at 9 o'clock position).
8. Open recirc arm ball valve enough to get all the air bubbles out of the line (about 7 o'clock position) briefly, then close it down until I get a steady enough stream. This is obviously highly subjective, but I aim for about a "pencil diameter". Not pencil lead, but the whole pencil. I guess it roughly necks down slightly in diameter from what it would be if it was full flow. I don't want it too fast to starve the bottom of the pipe, and I don't want it too slow where I can get a stuck mash (based on experience from my 2V brewing system). This has the lever at about 8 o'clock position.
9. I run lots of step mashes. Maybe 50% of the time I'm doing 100F, 122F, 145F, 168F. Other times it will be a 148F or 156F, followed by a 168F. I use rice hulls only if I'm doing something with > 8 oz of wheat or rye. And typically I use 4 oz of rice hulls if I have maybe up to 10% of my grist with those, otherwise about 8 oz if I'm doing something "wheaty" with like 50% of those grains.
Hardware
10. As mentioned, I'm running the 120V 35L unit.
11. Stock plumbing underneath, with the T on the output of the pump, going either to the spigot or recirc arm (but I only every use spigot when cleaning/draining).
12. As mentioned, I use the top mash screen.
13. I use the full length recirc hose, and it's long enough to bend down 90-degrees and sit on the top mash screen with a length of about 4-5".
14. I have the HED (and have used this since I got the G4).
15. Pictures below, but generally a nice fit of the pump filter screen/HED that has a bit of a gap at the outer circumference when installed, but is tight when pulling it up out of the brew unit. Using feeler gauges, with the screen biased all the way to one side, I was able to measure 0.057" gap.
16. Pictures below, but an even better fit for the bottom screen on the malt pipe. Biased to one side, I measured 0.016" gap with feeler gauges.
Attachments
Yes, exactly as you sketched. The factory tubing didn't quite reach, so I cut a new piece. I kept the pump positioned as you have it to keep the tube to the riser as straight as possible.
edit: do you stir your mash? I've heard the malt pipe bottom can lift during vigorous stirring.
Your method is spot on to my method also. I have never had any clogs.
agentbud
Well-Known Member
Ditto.
Hm, I guess it's possible the malt pipe bottom screen lifted up a bit when I lowered it into the unit, so I suppose doing this would help prevent that by using the weight of the grain to keep the screen in place. Might try that on the next brew.
I even hold a mash paddle to the bottom as I drop the malt pipe to keep it steady.
The flexible part? It's silicone tubing, likely ~3/8" ID? (Someone else may have a precise size.)
That's strange. A blockage on the output side of the pump is possible but I would have thought that if you were going to actually get a blockage the input side would be far more likely.
Is there any chance you moved the pump inlet silicone elbow or changed the position of this at the same time? It's quite easy to get a kink in the pump inlet elbow and I wonder if maybe those people getting blockages are actually because of this.
One thing I have not tried is removing all screens then intentionally block the pump by adding grain directly into the boiler while continuously recirculating. Possibly we can work out where the most likely blockage point is by doing this and then get a bit more insight this way. I will do some tests like this when I get back to the office in a couple weeks.
Yes my blockage seems to be on the input side as per my previous pics.
Mine seems to be on the input side, as well. Looks the same as @renaud00's picture of the silcone tubing on either side of the pump being clogged, and extends all the way up to the center drain port in the unit itself.
It's possible there's a small kink. I rerouted the plumbing per the suggestion in the BrewZilla guide that was supposed to bypass the recirc arm in case of a clog, but the clog is happening further upstream so it's kind of moot.
Thought I would share this. I didn’t think it mattered which way the bottom plate of the malt pipe was inserted, but there’s a thread on the BrewFather discord where someone asked the same question and added the attached photo for visual reference. Some folks said it didn’t matter but one person commented that it actually DOES matter and that option 2, with the bottom plate’s indentation pointing UP, that is the correct way because the weight of the grain will push the plate down and out (closing the gap) instead of forcing it to almost “fold in” on itself, increasing the gap.
No idea if this is true or not (maybe @KegLand can comment) but something to try.
No idea if this is true or not (maybe @KegLand can comment) but something to try.
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DuncB
Well-Known Member
I did have the bottom plate raise on my robobrew when I lifted the malt pipe once to "mix" the deadspace water.
Grain consequently came out and caused chaos.
I notice the pump outflow has a T to the tap or the recirculation. This is a big plumbing difference from the robobrew, brewzilla of earlier models. That junction will cause disturbed flow and eddies. This could mean a few grains or hulls will cause a cascade and blockage.
The device can easily be pumped empty from the recirculation tube as done on other models.
If I had one of these I'd just straight line from pump to recirculation and see how that went.
Grain consequently came out and caused chaos.
I notice the pump outflow has a T to the tap or the recirculation. This is a big plumbing difference from the robobrew, brewzilla of earlier models. That junction will cause disturbed flow and eddies. This could mean a few grains or hulls will cause a cascade and blockage.
The device can easily be pumped empty from the recirculation tube as done on other models.
If I had one of these I'd just straight line from pump to recirculation and see how that went.
The 3D shape is likely just a "break" to limit folding/deflection. (A flat plane is much easier to bend than a stamped piece with some 3D contours.)
But I do always use the insert bulge-up for the reasons you described. It does seem to invert, though, so I suspect any load shedding benefit is limited.
3/8" ID was too small, had to go up to 1/2", which BTW isn't as snug as the original tube but I'm sure will work fine.
DuncB
Well-Known Member
That eighth of an inch will make a huge difference to the flow, just as the narrow T piece will continue to act as a bottleneck and facilitator of disrupted flow.
A Y connection and bigger tubing could make a huge difference to these issues.
A Y connection and bigger tubing could make a huge difference to these issues.
Barão
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Brewzila35 ger 4... how not to clog the pump... the wort level doesn't rise? ...I use a ratio of 1 kg grain/4 liters of water...I stir the grain layer well...I turn on the recirculation...I place the upper plate...After 30 minutes the level rises and the pump clogs
One process step that has maybe shown differences in this thread is how you add your grains. Myself, and at least one other have not had grain clogs and report the following process:
- Basket in while heating strike water.
- Lift empty basket and rest on the stops.
- Add grain.
- Lower into strike water.
One difference that popped out between cloggers and non-cloggers, was the basket was lowered into water empty. This may have been unseating bottom screen.
- Basket in while heating strike water.
- Lift empty basket and rest on the stops.
- Add grain.
- Lower into strike water.
One difference that popped out between cloggers and non-cloggers, was the basket was lowered into water empty. This may have been unseating bottom screen.
If I crush to the level I like, I have to constrict recirc with the ball valve to about 50% flow to avoid bed compaction and pump starving/overflow through the malt pipe handle holes. If you want to rocket the water through, you could crush more coarsely or add rice hulls.
Barão
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OK...Mix the grains after lowering the basket in the water ?
Yeah, there will likely be dough balls (dry clumps). Just be careful not to do a big upward scooping action from the bottom, or really hard circles, as there are some reports of vigorous stirring lifting the malt pipe bottom plate. Personally I use a mash paddle and make small circles.
Lodo brewing process suggests underletting your grains (or filling your grains with water from below) is a good practice anyway for minimizing oxygen introduction when you mix grains and strike water. In this case, you get that effect, even if you're not a lodo believer. Fill your basket with grain while it sits out of the mash water. Lower the whole thing in (slowly I suppose), and then stir until it's all mixed well. And like said above, not so vigorous that you unseat the mash screen at bottom of malt pipe.
Some other systems might not have this sensitivity, because the bottom screen is welded to the malt pipe. The benefit of it being a loose piece reveals itself when it comes time to clean...
Some other systems might not have this sensitivity, because the bottom screen is welded to the malt pipe. The benefit of it being a loose piece reveals itself when it comes time to clean...
Barão
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thanks
If you're recirculating to the point of overflow, I wonder if you are recirculating too fast, and then starving the bottom of the mash. Maybe the pump is running dry (which can cause pump mechanical problems).
Try slowing down the pump flow by turning the blue lever on the recirc pipe to about a 45-degree angle, or maybe more toward horizontal. To slow recirc flow.
Also, with previous stuck mash, have you taken pump out and cleaned inside pump head for any residual grains, etc.? Maybe something still there making it sensitive.
Try slowing down the pump flow by turning the blue lever on the recirc pipe to about a 45-degree angle, or maybe more toward horizontal. To slow recirc flow.
Also, with previous stuck mash, have you taken pump out and cleaned inside pump head for any residual grains, etc.? Maybe something still there making it sensitive.
Is the wort rising during the actual mash or during the boil? I have the 220v unit and set the heating element to 60% once I get to boil otherwise it was boiling over.
Barão
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I recirculate very slowly....lever position 7 o'clock...the level rises...the pump stops...I lift the basket...it takes a LONG time to drain...sticky wort
I haven't opened the pump yet
Barão
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Wort grows during mashing
It sounds like your grain crush is too fine. Did you previously mash in a bag? Non-bag methods need more in-tact barley husks. You could add rice hulls if you can't control crush.
Barão
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ratio 4:1 grain water...total water...never used rice husk...not even a bag
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