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Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

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So correct me if my understanding is wrong. The ADC numbers are digitial numbers that convert the resistance readings from the temperature probe, which change with temperature. From the freezing point to the boiling point, the resistance changes in a relatively flat line (only slightly curved) but outside that range it curves more dramatically. So the algorithm matches each ADC number with an assumed temperature.

The factory calibration assumes a certain ADC number matches the freezing point and another matches the boiling point. The intervening ADC numbers are assigned a temperature reading based on that line (or slight curve).

In reality, those resistances may not be quite right for whatever reason, so a 2-point calibration has to be done.

At the freezing point, the ADC number that happens to be reading at that temperature gets assigned to 32 (when considering the Imperial measurement).

When one now goes to the boiling point and assigns the ADC number registered at that temperature to 212 (assumed at sea level), we now have two points of the range defined. All the intervening points are assigned temperature values according to the interpolation of the straight line or slight curve between those two points.

Thus, theoretically, if this understanding is correct, there should be no need for a second calibration at all.

But this is not the case. In practice, the result of the first calibration can still result in incorrect temperature readings. In practice, a second calibration does improve that significantly.

From my own experience, the ADC number at the boiling point is about 3920, and the ADC number at freezing point is about 630.

So where is my understanding not correct?
thats odd, mine are the opposite. i did a calibration at 200F and the adc was like 700ish. the adc goes up while the temp drops.

when i turned it on today, i got an alert that it was -25F !!!! the house is set for 68F, but okay.....
then as i got it hot i noticed that it kept turning on and off, but still wasnt boiling. thats because it was showing 218F when my thermometer was at like 164f.

so maybe starting with mash temp calibration points wasnt a great idea. dunno. in any case, i'm spreading them out all along the range. so now i've got calibrations at 93F, 138F, 170F, and 200F. waiting for some water to chill then i'll add in 55F and finally i'll put in 32F, although likely tomorrow morning after i leave water out overnite.
 
thats odd, mine are the opposite. i did a calibration at 200F and the adc was like 700ish. the adc goes up while the temp drops.

when i turned it on today, i got an alert that it was -25F !!!! the house is set for 68F, but okay.....
then as i got it hot i noticed that it kept turning on and off, but still wasnt boiling. thats because it was showing 218F when my thermometer was at like 164f.

so maybe starting with mash temp calibration points wasnt a great idea. dunno. in any case, i'm spreading them out all along the range. so now i've got calibrations at 93F, 138F, 170F, and 200F. waiting for some water to chill then i'll add in 55F and finally i'll put in 32F, although likely tomorrow morning after i leave water out overnite.
My apologies, you are right - it is the reverse. At boiling temperatures, the ADC is about 630, while at freezing it is about 3920. I must have sampled too much of my latest lager :)


After my third calibration, it didn't change much from the second calibration. I'm out about a degree F at 150 F (in the rgeneral ange of my mashing temperature). I can live with that, but still wonder why Brewzilla's temperatures does not come close to the accuracy of cheap $20 kitchen temperature probes! I don't even need to calibrate those at all, as they are often within a half degree at all temperatures in the range, to begin with.

I do plan to use an Inkbird meat thermometer probe with a 5 foot metal cable inserted in the mash to monitor the exact mash temperature. It is an inexpensive $25 alternative to the very expensive RAPT probe that they hope to come out with in the future. I really don't think it's at all necessary if you have one of these less expensive probes. They work great, are quite accurate, and give you the very same level of control.

Why continue to support RAPT when they don't support you? Also, why bother with the RAPT probe if the Brewzilla temperature is not correct to begin with? Adjusting between a relatively accurate but expensive probe, and an inaccurate Brewzilla probe makes little sense. If one end is inaccurate, the end result will necessarily be inaccurate.

Stick with a very inexpensive, accurate Inkbird probe, and you will achieve much better results.

328ft Bluetooth Meat Thermometer with 2 External Probes, Inkbird 3 in 1 Instant Read Meat Thermometer IHT-2PB, Rechargable Digital Food Thermometer for Kitchen, Cooking, Smoker, BBQ, Candy, Oven : Amazon.ca: Home
 
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well the obvious answer is so that you can use the stupid and oversold Rapt portal.

im going to do the 32f calibration tomorrow morning with some water left outside. at that point i'll have 6 points from 32f to 200F. if i'm within 1degree thats good enough for me too.

so now that that's settled- How's about we figure out how to turn these stupid emails into phone alerts??!!?!? we need it to be relatively instantaneous, and be an actual phone alert/notification like for texts, phone calls, timers/alarms, etc.
 
well the obvious answer is so that you can use the stupid and oversold Rapt portal.

im going to do the 32f calibration tomorrow morning with some water left outside. at that point i'll have 6 points from 32f to 200F. if i'm within 1degree thats good enough for me too.

so now that that's settled- How's about we figure out how to turn these stupid emails into phone alerts??!!?!? we need it to be relatively instantaneous, and be an actual phone alert/notification like for texts, phone calls, timers/alarms, etc.
I could care less about an email notice as I'm not one to use a smart phone, nor do I want to monitor a tablet every minute. I prefer to stay near the Brewzilla. I do understand from a video, that there is a short, quiet beep on the Brewzilla. I understand that is easy to miss as it is not loud and is not repeated. I have never heard it yet.
 
I could care less about an email notice as I'm not one to use a smart phone, nor do I want to monitor a tablet every minute. I do understand from a video, that there is a short, quiet beep on the Brewzilla. I understand that is easy to miss as it is not loud. I have never heard it yet.
i think you're missing the point....

the idea is to NOT HAVE TO monitor a phone or tablet. it just sits there in your pocket being ignored until all the sudden it goes DING loudly and you hear it.

reminds me of this new thing the kids have these days, its called a Text Message....
 
i think you're missing the point....

the idea is to NOT HAVE TO monitor a phone or tablet. it just sits there in your pocket being ignored until all the sudden it goes DING loudly and you hear it.

reminds me of this new thing the kids have these days, its called a Text Message....
I'm not missing the point at all. I really don't care to be reminded by email. I would much prefer to hear the Brewzilla itself notify me, as I'm more of an old-time hands-on type of brewer.
 
I would much prefer to hear the Brewzilla
this seems to tell us you want a SOUND ALERT from brewzilla, yes?

im saying i ALSO want a sound alert from the brewzilla. the difference is that i want brewzilla to send it to my phone instead using its crappy little tiny speaker.

i'll say it again, the email arrangement is stupid and useless. nobody "wants" the emails. we're on the same page there.
 
AHA.

ok, think i have a solution here.

apparently most phone carriers have email-to-text support on their systems. my ghetto ass provider is metro pcs, so the email is [email protected]. sure enough, test email i forwarded came as a text less than 30 seconds after i sent it.


EDIT- got a response from kegland. was told to get the app for my phone. i was a bit surprised. i looked at the instructions online, the august22 version that is top of search results, and there was nothing i could find in there about a mobile app. it kept referencing the "portal" which is the app.rapt.io web link. i found that a bit odd that they didnt even mention there was a phone app. its literally the same portal as the web, so there's no extra functionality that i can see so far. and from what i'm seeing on my phone (iphone SE, ios 16) there is no actual "rapt" app. maybe this deserves its own thread.....

i ran the only profile i have set up which is "clean" and it just runs for 10 mins at 150f. i got weird messages and there were some obvious errors but at the end of 10 minutes, i actually got notication on my phone via text. this was via my email-to-text relay solution above, it was NOT a native phone alarm/sound/notification.
 
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Regarding the second round of calibration, you simply add freezing ice water, then check it with an accurate probe thermometer. Then add that value into Calibration Point 1 once again as you did the first time. This changes the slope of the line each time you do it, and so it gets closer. The calibration points are retained each time, so you don't want to erase them at all, as they're used for the next calibration. It is an iterative process where the slope becomes closer to the ideal each time you do another calibration.
how are you sure the "extra" calibration points are retained? i ask because i noticed this morning that when i did my final calibration at 39F that the most recent low point that i had tested/recorded at 90F was showing on the screen, but then it disappeared once i accepted the new calibration point i did at 39f.
 
how are you sure the "extra" calibration points are retained? i ask because i noticed this morning that when i did my final calibration at 39F that the most recent low point that i had tested/recorded at 90F was showing on the screen, but then it disappeared once i accepted the new calibration point i did at 39f.
Logically, it has to retain it. After the first round of calibrations, the feezing temperature was significantly different than it was before. When I entered a new value, the difference became even less. When you put a new value in, then it changes, but before that it shows the previous entry.
 
this seems to tell us you want a SOUND ALERT from brewzilla, yes?

im saying i ALSO want a sound alert from the brewzilla. the difference is that i want brewzilla to send it to my phone instead using its crappy little tiny speaker.

i'll say it again, the email arrangement is stupid and useless. nobody "wants" the emails. we're on the same page there.
Yes, I would much prefer an audible sound alert. It would be nice if it was sent out by the Brewzilla as well as a tablet or phone.

In fact, the ideal place would be the RAPT application itself - the alarm should come from there rather than having an email sent. I'm much more likely to keep an eye on the RAPT app durign a brew than my emails.
 
Unfortunately, the boiler area is not accessible for direct measuring, so one has to check the liquid in the malt pipe.
I may be misreading your post?

Why would you try to calibrate a sensor without measuring the temperature at the sensor? That's a recipe for inaccuracy and frustration.

Throw a little water in the bottom and calibrate/test.
 
I may be misreading your post?

Why would you try to calibrate a sensor without measuring the temperature at the sensor? That's a recipe for inaccuracy and frustration.

Throw a little water in the bottom and calibrate/test.
How would you suggest getting a probe in there? It's all closed off!
 
Maybe we're looking at different hardware? The temperature probe for the 35L gen 4 is at the bottom of the kettle in plain sight.
OK, I see where my understanding was wrong. From Kegland's videos, I initially had the understanding that the probe is actually inside the chamber where the heating element is located, in fact quite near the element (i.e. below the bottom plate of the kettle). This is an inaccessible area, so I wasn't sure how one could measure the temperature of the water near the probe. I thought that the heating element and probe were surrounded by the liquid in a small chamber, before it drained down into the pump.

If the probe is indeed in the bottom of the kettle itself, which I just checked and it is, then yes I can see that it would be preferable to measure the temperature close to this probe. However since the water in the kettle is being recirculated vigorously, (and no screens, mash pipe or mash are being used), there likely won't be a significant difference in temperature. With the mash pipe, the mash itself and two screens, then yes, there would be circulation issues and the temperature in the upper area would likely be significantly different than the temperature near the bottom, and just above the heating element(s).

The next time I do a calibration, to ensure accuracy, I will take your advice, take out the bottom screen, add enough water to cover the probe, and not so much that the probe can't reach it, and measure the temperature immediately next to it.
 
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For everyone's reference, here is the bottom of the brewzilla:
20221218_141821.jpg

The temp probe is the little nub there.

Also to clarify for the people skimming this, there isn't a chamber the wort touches below this, the drain pipe in the middle goes straight into the pump inlet. The heating elements are potted into the underside of the kettle bottom shown in the pic. Think of it like a pot sitting on an old school electric stove element.

The best way to calibrate something like this is at 0c and 100c. for 0, make a slurry of mostly ice, with just enough water to fill the gaps. No recirc or pump, just need enough to cover that probe and let it all sit for a couple minutes so the bottom can equalize. It should be wet slushy consistency, not a couple cubes floating.

For 100c, put enough distilled water in there to cover the probe by an inch or so? Then get it up to a light boil. Again, no pump. Double check boiling point vs your altitude.
 
Logically, it has to retain it. After the first round of calibrations, the feezing temperature was significantly different than it was before. When I entered a new value, the difference became even less. When you put a new value in, then it changes, but before that it shows the previous entry.
My logic says its not retained. Doesnt need to be. we start with OEM calibration. has two set points. produces an OEM slope as you describe.

you swap your first calibration points for the OEM. produces a new slope. more accurate.

your second calibration points produced second new slope. even more accurate because this new slope uses the second calibrations points which were measured against the 1st slope. but doesnt need the OEM.

case in point- my OEM was off by 7F, which i think was similar to yours. after i did the mash temp calibrations i had a new slope. it was good at mash temps, but wildly,wildly off at boiling and in room temp water. considering the OEM boiling temp calibration temp should only have been off by 7, it seems to me that it was no longer being used by system as i had now jumped it to be at least over 50F off at boiling, and 80F vs room temp. to me, that sure seems like what is retained is the current points/slope. but not any prior slopes/points.

but once i did 200 and 39f, i'm down to probably no more than 2F variance. doesnt seem logical to go from variance of 7F, to over 80F, and then down to 2F.

so i dont believe it retains more than one set. but i'm also admit this is just my take on it, not saying this is a fact. unless someone gets into the firmware or kegland answers the question i guess we'll never be 100% sure.

the good thing is that it seems like its a moot point. you're about 1 degree variance, and i'm down to maybe 2 or less. so whether its retaining all the points or just the most recent, it seems like its all just an annoying but mostly fixable problem if you can calibrate close to the 212 and 32F ends of the range.

but as to why kegland keeps saying its not an issue, that still seems up for debate. i emailed them about the problem too. so you're no longer the sole complainer in their eyes i hope.
 
Yes, I would much prefer an audible sound alert. It would be nice if it was sent out by the Brewzilla as well as a tablet or phone.

In fact, the ideal place would be the RAPT application itself - the alarm should come from there rather than having an email sent. I'm much more likely to keep an eye on the RAPT app durign a brew than my emails.
YES. exactly what i thought i was getting based on their marketing of the new model. but i think the issue is that the rapt portal isnt an app. i think because its web based, its only option is email. so it doesnt have permissions to get into your phone's OS, which i assume is needed for it to be able to push out "notifications" or sounds.

it cant interact directly with your phone in its current web-based format (if my understanding of mobile os stuff is correct). in any case, as i posted above, i figured out a way to get those rapt emails to come to my phone as texts. its free, at least for most phone carriers in the US. i'd guess canadians probably have same feature. that coupled with a email forward rule in my gmail account and i've got what are effectively "instant" notices as a text message. the test email i sent today was like 15 seconds to become a text. so good enough for me.

i also emailed kegland about it, told them to add a "email address for alerts" property to the rapt profile setup so folks could use the email-to-SMS functions from our carriers. who knows if they ever actually do it. but it seems like it should be super easy, and it costs them nothing (1hr to design, test, and implement?) so i dont see why they wouldnt run with it.....

EDIT: kegland if you do take up the suggestion, no problems from me. i freely give the idea. but if you;re feeling generous how about you send me one of these babies.....
kl08747_-_ss_counter_flow_chiller_1-2_bsp.png

(havent seen them in US, but current conversion rate says they're only about $130 US. Coolossus - Passivated Stainless Steel Counter Flow Chiller Heat Exchanger )
 
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Made another brew with the Gen4 this weekend. Pretty smooth... one thing I did was actually use the top screen for the malt pipe, post sparge.

I came from BIAB where I used to hoist and then squeeze the bag. In a similar fashion, after you've lifted the malt pipe and sparged, you can put the screen on and I pushed down with my mash paddle to get every last drip out.

The used grain is easier to deal with when it's as dry as possible too.
 
Made another brew with the Gen4 this weekend. Pretty smooth... one thing I did was actually use the top screen for the malt pipe, post sparge.

I came from BIAB where I used to hoist and then squeeze the bag. In a similar fashion, after you've lifted the malt pipe and sparged, you can put the screen on and I pushed down with my mash paddle to get every last drip out.

The used grain is easier to deal with when it's as dry as possible too.
Me too. Brewed my second batch on the gen4 last night and did the exact same thing. Added the top plate after the basket was lifted and draining. This helped 2 ways, 1) kept pressure on the grains so that it helped drain faster and more complete and 2) helped disperse the sparge water that I was pouring on top of it
 
I wonder if that's the intended use? There's not much mention of it anywhere, nobody doing brews online seems to use it for anything.
 
I see all this mention of top plate. You want to know something knee slapping hilarious? I've been using the top plate (the plate with feet) on the bottom this whole time. I mean I didn't know and had no clue that was supposed to be the top plate. Live and learn. Anywho the new brew bag is here but the ferment fridge is being used to hold our Christmas feast stuffs so won't be brewing until next week some time.
 
I see all this mention of top plate. You want to know something knee slapping hilarious? I've been using the top plate (the plate with feet) on the bottom this whole time. I mean I didn't know and had no clue that was supposed to be the top plate. Live and learn. Anywho the new brew bag is here but the ferment fridge is being used to hold our Christmas feast stuffs so won't be brewing until next week some time.
You have it right, unless I am misunderstanding. The plate with the 3 feet is the bottom plate and should go at the bottom of the boiler (tight fit). The top plate is the one that looks like the malt pipe screen but has 2 small metal tabs and a small hole in the middle of the screen for a temp probe.
 
not sure what you were trying to say, but as it turns out this is available in the US. i had no idea. but for quite a bit more than what the Australian dollar equivalent is per their site. (regular price) which i guess makes sense, these suckers are typically pretty heavy, take up a decent volume in a box. not to mention not cheap to mail on the last-mile part of the delivery either. morebeer out of stock, but northerbrewer says 144 "with code". so maybe you can get for ~$150 if its in stock anywhere and using what i assume is a xmas sale code.
 
My logic says its not retained. Doesnt need to be. we start with OEM calibration. has two set points. produces an OEM slope as you describe.

you swap your first calibration points for the OEM. produces a new slope. more accurate.

your second calibration points produced second new slope. even more accurate because this new slope uses the second calibrations points which were measured against the 1st slope. but doesnt need the OEM.

case in point- my OEM was off by 7F, which i think was similar to yours. after i did the mash temp calibrations i had a new slope. it was good at mash temps, but wildly,wildly off at boiling and in room temp water. considering the OEM boiling temp calibration temp should only have been off by 7, it seems to me that it was no longer being used by system as i had now jumped it to be at least over 50F off at boiling, and 80F vs room temp. to me, that sure seems like what is retained is the current points/slope. but not any prior slopes/points.

but once i did 200 and 39f, i'm down to probably no more than 2F variance. doesnt seem logical to go from variance of 7F, to over 80F, and then down to 2F.

so i dont believe it retains more than one set. but i'm also admit this is just my take on it, not saying this is a fact. unless someone gets into the firmware or kegland answers the question i guess we'll never be 100% sure.

the good thing is that it seems like its a moot point. you're about 1 degree variance, and i'm down to maybe 2 or less. so whether its retaining all the points or just the most recent, it seems like its all just an annoying but mostly fixable problem if you can calibrate close to the 212 and 32F ends of the range.

but as to why kegland keeps saying its not an issue, that still seems up for debate. i emailed them about the problem too. so you're no longer the sole complainer in their eyes i hope.
I think we're saying the same thing. I didn't mean it retains each and every entry, but just the last two points. Each time it seems to improve the slope.
I brewed today, and I could live with the 2 degree difference. It was so much more satisfying than trying to remember a 7 degree difference.

Thanks for emailing Kegland! Let me know what they say. Hope they don't tell you that you are the only person who has reported this problem!
 
So I brewed with the Brewzilla today and ran into a couple of new issues. During the mash, everything went as hoped. I used the PID and it kept the increases within reason.

But when I was finished mashing, I set the target to 169 F (mashout). It didn't take too long to get there, but while the Brewzilla was telling me the temperature was 169 F, the temperature of the mash was actually still down to about 154 F! (The mash temperature had only increased a by a couple of degrees). This was while the pump was recirculating. I then decided to stir the mash during the recirculation. After 5 minutes, the Brewzilla still said 169 F and the actual temperature of the mash was still at 154 F! It was NOT going up in temperature, at least not noticeably. (I had kept a separate meat probe thermometer in the mash duurign the entire mash).

Has anyone else experienced something similar? Is there an explanation? It just doesn't make any sense!

The other issue is that a LOT of grain went through the two filters and through the pump. In the end, the pump was clogged with grain, preventing flow. The two screens do not seem fine enough to prevent a lot of grain from going through.
 
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The other issue is that a LOT of grain went through the two filters and through the pump. In the end, the pump was clogged with grain, preventing flow. The two screens do not seem fine enough to prevent a lot of grain from going through.
I did not experience this on my second brew. Learning from my first brew, I had increased my crush a little and added rice hulls and and had zero problems with mash circulation and drainage. The bottom screen caught a lot of grain debris but it never clogged and I had no issues with the pump.
 
I did not experience this on my second brew. Learning from my first brew, I had increased my crush a little and added rice hulls and and had zero problems with mash circulation and drainage. The bottom screen caught a lot of grain debris but it never clogged and I had no issues with the pump.

I also did both of these things and had no issues. I may try to drop the grain crush a little again next time and see what happens.
 
Firstly I will say we are new to this forum. As we are based in Australia we have not kept track of forums outside of Australia but with that said it’s probably a good idea for us to jump on and clear up some questions here.

Is RAPT and KegLand the same company?
The RAPT controller is managed by the KegLand team so it’s one and the same. It’s just got it’s own brand. The only reason that the RAPT control devices are under a different brand is because KegLand also have requests from other industries to supply the temp control and RAPT connected devices to other industries that are not beer or brewing related. For all intensive purposes the RAPT and KegLand are all run as the same business.



- The Limitation of Single Point Temperature Probes in Breweries
For all breweries especially RIMS design breweries (all single vessel breweries are RIMS) it is important to have a temp probe near the element at the bottom of the brewery. This is explained in this video we did some time ago here. Although this is an old video it’s still very relevant to the discussion as it describes the limitation of having a single temperature probe:


Once you have watched this video you can start to appreciate that simply having a single temperature probe at the bottom of the brewery is a limitation. KegLand has known of this limitation for a long time which is why we were so keen for the BZ Gen 4 to also have Bluetooth. Bluetooth has made it much easier for us to bring out multiple different Bluetooth sensors such as additional temperature probes that allow us to take not only a reading down the base near the elements but also put a probe in the top and take the temperature reading of the core mash temp where we really want to control the temp. This process and Bluetooth probe is described in this video here:


To my understanding we are the only single vessel in the world that has this type of solution. We are also making ongoing software updates to the BZ to further improve the functionality of this Bluetooth probe as well as come up with many other accessories too. I should not that BZ Gen 4 can |”bond” with up to 8 Bluetooth sensors which I think will be more useful in the future when we come out with more hardware for things like distillation etc.

I should also say we are also considering making a change to the probe placement. At the moment the temp probe in the base is at the outer edge but we are looking to move this 50% between the outer edge and the drain hole. We have found this does give a better “average” temperature of the base. With that said the probe itself is very accurate once you do the calibration process and it’s not that the probe is inaccurate but more so important that you understand how the temperature differential works between the top, bottom, and core mash. You will always have different temperatures in different parts of the brewery and there is simply no perfect single position to put a probe. To get the best resolution of what is going on we need more probes in general.



- The PID Settings
In my opinion PID can be useful but I genuinely think the additional Bluetooth probe and heat exchanger dish is far more useful than PID and if you get the bluetooth probe and head exchange dish you really do not need PID. Also every time you change the batch size, mash volume or water volume you need to tune the PID. We could have made a much more simple PID but the reality is if we make it too simple it doesn’t work that well so we felt that it’s best to include a PID function that can be tuned and you have access to the “P” “I” and “D” coefficient. More on this is also described in the video above.



- RAPT Documentation Deficiency

Yes I would agree that at the moment we do not have a lot of the RAPT stuff well documented. We do not have many printed manuals and PDFs as the platform is changing quite a bit. For instance on the BrewZilla Gen 4 this is not even 12 months old and we are up to firmware build 6 and we are continuing to add more features. Similarly on the Rapt.io portal/website we are doing ongoing upgrades. In fact we just did a new upgrade today that allows for more complex profile management. Due to the speed of the upgrades and various changes taking place it’s difficult to keep PDFs and manuals up to date but with that said we have an active RAPT users group that you can join which is here:

RAPT Users Group | Facebook

This group will enable you to keep up to date with the lates releases. I should also say we have a Gitlab site that will allow you to log any bugs or put in feature requests here:
Log in or sign up to view


We are continually working through this list and many of the feature requests that customers are posting here are getting processed fairly quickly. One thing I would ask you guys to do is read the current feature requests first before posting a new one just so we do not have multiple requests of the same nature. Alternatively if you see a current request you can “upvote” the request and this will place the request at a higher priority to get resolved faster.



- Alerts and New Profile Management

At the moment we have an alert system via email but if you download the phone app you also get alerts to your mobile phone. You must install the phone app and allow the app to give you push notifications. I should also say we have a new phone app that we are working on in the future that will also allow for easier and faster registration of the devices and connecting to WIFI. We are also working on a new profile management system that gives you more control over alerts too. Hopefully in the next couple of months we have the next major update released which will allow you to put different alert types into different points in the profile. For instance you can have an alert for reaching a certain step, or certain temperature or certain time elapses or one where the temp has been held for a certain number of minutes etc. The new profile system will allow you to turn off alerts to your phone and also turn on/off the audible sound on the actual brewery itself. This new profile management system will also allow more control for different RAPT devices to talk to each other. For instance on the new profile system we will also be able to set a temperature on the RAPT Temp Controller based on a fermentation velocity that is received from the Pill RAPT Hydrometer. So this new profile system will essentially allow for more interconnectivity between totally different RAPT devices so new levels of automation are easier to configure and this has always been one of our long term goals.





Most of all thanks for all your support. We do spend a lot of time reading comments from our customers and we are continuing to develop and improve all the gear that we make. Many of the ideas and new products that we develop come from discussions like this so we really have to thank you guys for this. We are absolutely committed to making brewing easier and helping you guys brew better beer(and other beverages) more easily. We will try to be more active on this forum moving forward.

 

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