Brewrig FINALLY started.

[Layne]

Ordered my new kettle,elements,some fittings, and compiling a list of other stuff as we speak.
Boerderij_Kabouter is building my control panel for me, and my lovely wife is paying for it for our anniversary
Full electric, 220v, BCS controlled.
We should be brewing on this before Christmas! I cant wait.

 

[Layne]

More Pics soon.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Put your MLT on the bottom and the HLT on top....then you only need one pump....

 

[Layne]

Put your MLT on the bottom and the HLT on top....then you only need one pump....

But then I couldn't stir my mash.

 

[jfkriege]

You would have to redesign the cart, but I do like the MLT on the bottom. It makes sense for minimizing work in pumping. If you put the MLT low, then you could also run a 2 tank system without modification. You would have the best of both worlds (Brutus 10 and 20).

Joshua

 

[Layne]

Just back from a long business trip.
20g Blichmann BK is in.
Elements are in.
Final stand plans go to my fab shop buddy this weekend.
Boerderij Kabouter is making lots of progress on my electronics.
Gettin closer by the day!

 

[Layne]

I really like the idea of putting wood to contrast the stainless.
I think it would look better as an insert like this, but easier to build, and more improtant,easier to clean up if the wood just sat on top of the stainless.
Do you think the insert version is enough better looking to warrant the extra work and cleaning?

 

[Layne]

50A 240 outlet is wired in!.

 

[sco999]

I have also been kicking around the idea of having my HLT on the bottom shelf of a similar cart. I am concerned with pump performance since the pump will be at the same level as the bottom of the HLT. Does anybody have any experience with having a pump at the same level or only slightly lower then a vessel?

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Yes, it works just fine, and you will be able to reach higher flow levels because of reduced head pressure.

 

[flountown]

I have also been kicking around the idea of having my HLT on the bottom shelf of a similar cart. I am concerned with pump performance since the pump will be at the same level as the bottom of the HLT. Does anybody have any experience with having a pump at the same level or only slightly lower then a vessel?

As long as the pump is below the water level you should be fine I would imagine.

 

[Layne]

I posted this in the All Grain section, but decided I should put it here.

Trying to map out my new brewrig plumbing and thought process.
I presently boil in my 15g blichmann kettle,chill, let settle, then siphon 'from the top down' to get the clearest beer into the fermenters. I ferment in cornys, so I want as much clear beer and as little trub/break as possible to maximise finished beer into serving keg./
So far, this has worked pretty good. nearly 5 gals most of the time.

I am building a brewrig, and will be more automated, and maybe some hard plumbing.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to recirq/qhirlpool/ect, so I don't have to siphon to the fermenter.
I will be boiling in a 20g blichmann kettle, chilling with a CFC, and fermenting in cornys.

Maybe turn the diptube sideways instead of straight down in the kettle to avoid the settled 'stuff'?
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Layne-

I have been using large filter bags (fine) lately and have been extremely happy with the results. I put the filter in the mouth of the corney with the bag hanging inside the keg. Then I drain the full volume including trub into the keg and slowly bring the filter bag out. The filter catches all the trub and hop debris and I have been left with clear beer in the fermenter. You may need to modify this technique a bit to get a full 5g into the fermenter (the trub takes up some space, watch the overflow ) but I think something similar may be a good way to go.

 

[Catt22]

I'm looking for suggestions on how to recirq/qhirlpool/ect, so I don't have to siphon to the fermenter.
I will be boiling in a 20g blichmann kettle, chilling with a CFC, and fermenting in cornys.

Maybe turn the diptube sideways instead of straight down in the kettle to avoid the settled 'stuff'?
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

IMO, the location of the dip tube makes very little difference. The suction at the dip tube inlet is generally not strong enough to pick up debris that's more than about 1/2" away. That small amount of debris is not worth worrying about. There will always be some stuff settling out in the fermenter, whether it's a corny or other type. I would just plan on racking the beer to a second keg once the fermentation is complete. This would leave any minor residual debris/spent yeast behind.

 

[wildwest450]

Since I have to use an outside chiller because of the element, I got a hop stopper. A little expensive, but great for pellet hops. It slides right into a Blichmann pot and looks like it was made for it. If you used that in conjuction with a paint strainer bag, I can't see anything getting into the fermenter.

Of course you can't whirlpool with that setup, but i'm not a whirlpool advocate.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I agree, the Blichmann HopBlocker performs as advertised and would be a good solution if you have room for it.

Whirlpool in the kettle with hot wort. Allow to settle (10-15m), then drain through the HB, into your CFC. Then use the filter bag as a last measure and you will have crystal wort.

The only thing with the HB is you need to do the final runnoff VERY slow. So you really need to restrict the flow out of the pump down to something like 1 quart/minute for the last gallon or two in the kettle.

 

[wildwest450]

I agree, the Blichmann HopBlocker performs as advertised and would be a good solution if you have room for it.

I actually have the hop stopper not the hop blocker. I read nothing but bad reviews on the Blichmann product, so I went with a proven product.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Oh. I haven't used the screen one. I have been too skeptical of it to pull the trigger...

I was impressed with the HB.

 

[wildwest450]

Oh. I haven't used the screen one. I have been too skeptical of it to pull the trigger...

I was impressed with the HB.

It works well. I was going to get the hop blocker, I just read to much negative on it. Oh well, sounds like they both will do the job.

 

[Layne]

I have the blichmann hop blocker. Have not even tried it.
Guess I'll give it a try. Beings I already own it. I bough one, and immediately heard all the backlash about them, and at the time, I was using a chiller in the kettle, and both did not fit. Now that I have the CFC, I did not even think to did it out and try it. DUH

 

[Layne]

A nice box of Stainless Steel came in today.
My Triclover RIMS Tube from Brewers Hardware.

 

[KingKegII]

Wow, that's some sexy beer porn! Hope you have everything put together in time to brew some Christmas ale.

 

[Hawgbranch]

But then I couldn't stir my mash.

Ice Cream makers make nifty Mash Stirrers.
I dare you....

 

[Ohio-Ed]

A nice box of Stainless Steel came in today.
My Triclover RIMS Tube from Brewers Hardware.

I used mine for the first time yesterday.

I built on from 2" SS nipples & Tee's but was not real excited about how difficult it is to take apart to inspect. I was a bit concerned about the smaller diameter of the Brewers Hardware tube. I was concerned as to whether the BCS-460 would react fast enough to avoid burning the wort if the flow stopped.

The Brewers Hardware version worked flawlessly. I intentionally stopped the wort flow to test the volume/reaction time... No problem what so ever. I really like the fact that you can orient the input/outputs in any direction you need. I love how easily it comes apart for inspection/cleaning.

Ed

 

[Layne]

Makin' progress again.
Went by the fab shop this morning. The stainless is all welded.
Yeeeee Haaaaaa!

[/IMG]

 

[wildwest450]

Looks good!



____

 

[Layne]

This is a render of the final design.

 

[Layne]

Gettin closer!

 

[stevehaun]

Beautiful!

 

[rosier9]

awesome