All I can add is that in the design of Data Centers, we always call out for the vapor barrier on the cold side of the wall. This prevents any condensation from forming in the insulation of the walls. Which leads to mold growth.
Brewpastor's Coldroom Build
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I don't get that. Warm air holds moisture until it gets cold, then it doesn't anymore. If the plastic is nearest to the interior cold wall, the warm air gets through the insulation and then hit the cold plastic. So, I'd rather stop the moisture before it gets into the insulation.
ClaudiusB
Well-Known Member
Very simple
A vapor barrier is designed to keep moisture in your home from getting inside your walls. Every time you install batt or roll insulation the a vapor barrier (paper side) faces to the inside of the room not the outside (cold side).
If you install insulation without vapor barrier a 4mil plastic sheet is stapled over the entire framed wall before the dry wall is installed.
I used to watch This Old House.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB.
Bobby,
According to This Document you are correct, it should be on the warm side of the wall. I guess I should ask more questions at work regarding the placement of the vapor barrier. Now I'm not sure why we detail it to be on the cold side.
According to This Document you are correct, it should be on the warm side of the wall. I guess I should ask more questions at work regarding the placement of the vapor barrier. Now I'm not sure why we detail it to be on the cold side.
Very simple
A vapor barrier is designed to keep moisture in your home from getting inside your walls. Every time you install batt or roll insulation the a vapor barrier (paper side) faces to the inside of the room not the outside (cold side).
If you install insulation without vapor barrier a 4mil plastic sheet is stapled over the entire framed wall before the dry wall is installed.
I used to watch This Old House.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB.
I guess it depends on location too. For instance, in Florida, the "cold" side of the wall would always be the interior so the barrier should be facing out.
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ClaudiusB
Well-Known Member
Maybe cold and hot side should not be used.
Living space?
El Paso is a lot hotter than Florida and the vapor barrier in our homes is on the inside (living space).
We don't install plastic, only staple on the paper faced rolls.
I think it's time for the home builders to reply
Have a great day,
ClaudiusB
Maybe it's better to call it the side of the wall most likely to have hot moist air.
Joe Camel
Well-Known Member
Plastic is cheap, +1 for both sides
Both sides would create a trap for moisture. Have you ever seen a double insulated window with moisture in it? Try getting that out.
You would have to assume that except for some exceptions the interior of the cold room would be the cold side. Otherwise it's the warm room.
You would have to assume that except for some exceptions the interior of the cold room would be the cold side. Otherwise it's the warm room.
yearlylesson
Active Member
Wow, very impressive, looking forward to seeing the finished project.
magnj
Well-Known Member
Cool project, you could run a dehumidifier if all else fails no?
That's what an AC does anyway. However, there's not much moisture in NM right?
BrewBeemer
Well-Known Member
But it's a dry heat.
dantodd
Well-Known Member
This is next to the bedroom?
More likely closer to whatever room my wife is in.... har har.. get it.. hot air. ehh
OP
OP
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
NM is very dry and so this probably is nothing to get worked up about.
I have installed the floor, run the wiring, and started installing the insulation. I also hung the door. I need to figure out how I want to control the AC unit. I know lots of people use the Ranco units to control, but I am interested in the CoolBot unit> Store It Cold - Home of the CoolBot!
Anybody have any experience or knowledge with these units?
I have installed the floor, run the wiring, and started installing the insulation. I also hung the door. I need to figure out how I want to control the AC unit. I know lots of people use the Ranco units to control, but I am interested in the CoolBot unit> Store It Cold - Home of the CoolBot!
Anybody have any experience or knowledge with these units?
The cool thing about the cool bot is the frost sensor. It seems to be the key benefit over a regular controller but I would probably try a Ranco before paying the $230 premium for the coolbot.
leboeuf
Well-Known Member
oh damn! If I lived anywhere near there that would be mine!
leboeuf
Well-Known Member
I only posted it because it's probably about 5 minutes from brewpastor.... If only I had the space! Maybe BP can use the door and cooler?
OP
OP
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
OH, that is sweet! But too late for me!
OP
OP
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
Well, I went and checked out the walk-in. It is pretty rough and shorter then advertised. It is cool none-the-less. It is a Perlick cooler and would be pretty cool to have. My wife (she is great) told me to get it if I wanted. But I think what I am doing will be better, especially now that I know how much I can spend on the project!
Thus far I have spent:
wood for framing - free
2 sheets of plywood for floor - $19 each
insulation - $90
solid core door - $10 (Habitat Restore)
door hardware - free
8000 BTU AC unit - $199
wiring, switches, outlets and boxes - $32
I had the nails, screws and tools already.
I still need a temperature controller, drywall (Although my father-in-law has two 4x12 sheets for me), linoleum for the floor, lights and interior wall covering.
Thus far I have spent:
wood for framing - free
2 sheets of plywood for floor - $19 each
insulation - $90
solid core door - $10 (Habitat Restore)
door hardware - free
8000 BTU AC unit - $199
wiring, switches, outlets and boxes - $32
I had the nails, screws and tools already.
I still need a temperature controller, drywall (Although my father-in-law has two 4x12 sheets for me), linoleum for the floor, lights and interior wall covering.
leboeuf
Well-Known Member
Yeah its always nice to buy something premade, but it's even better to make exactly what you want.
Looks like you are on track for your budget! Think I spent $120 on my reach-in, if I'd had the space for the walk-in I think $600 would have been a good target.
Do you think you'll go for the coolbot? I don't know if there's enough humidity here to justify the need for the "anti-coil freeze up" features.
Looks like you are on track for your budget! Think I spent $120 on my reach-in, if I'd had the space for the walk-in I think $600 would have been a good target.
Do you think you'll go for the coolbot? I don't know if there's enough humidity here to justify the need for the "anti-coil freeze up" features.
OP
OP
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
I am learning towards the coolbot. The think I like is how it works. I doesn't mess with the AC unit, but rather uses a small heating element attached to the AC thermostat to "fool" the AC unit into keeping running.
You are right about the frost thing. I don't think we would need one around here.
Actually, That would be really easy to copy, Maybe a fish tank heater or something like that, controlled by a Ranco. You put the heater in direct contact with the AC's element and have the Ranco turn the heater on and off based on the temperature you want the Room to be.
OK - I need some ideas of what I could use as a heating element to be controlled by a Ranco. If it is small and running on 110 it would be best.
You are right about the frost thing. I don't think we would need one around here.
Actually, That would be really easy to copy, Maybe a fish tank heater or something like that, controlled by a Ranco. You put the heater in direct contact with the AC's element and have the Ranco turn the heater on and off based on the temperature you want the Room to be.
OK - I need some ideas of what I could use as a heating element to be controlled by a Ranco. If it is small and running on 110 it would be best.
leboeuf
Well-Known Member
It would be fairly easy to replicate. I bet they're just using a robust thermistor in "reverse". A thermistor has a somewhat linear temperature response to its voltage input. Honestly though there isn't much of a difference between tricking the built in thermostat and just replacing the thermostat with a ranco/etc. I've read up on the coolbot and really the only novel thing about it is the anti-freeze features.
Couevas
Well-Known Member
You could run over to your neighborhood pet store and pick up the smallest reptile heating pad they have. Should be about 10-15 bucks and is designed to work in the air (aquarium heaters are designed to work in water and will burn out quickly when exposed)
-C
OP
OP
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket chemistry
What I like about the heater idea and not messing with the AC's wiring is it does not effect the warranty of the AC unit. It has a 5 year warranty and from what I hear I will be luck to get it to last that long.
I like the reptile heater idea.
I like the reptile heater idea.
dantodd
Well-Known Member
I would probably use a small peltier or the above mentioned reptile heater but put it in some sort of insulated box so you aren't fighting too hard against the heat generated, the reptile heaters put out a little more heat than I'd personally like. You might also consider only running the heater when you are running the A/C, it might take a few minutes to come up to temp and kick the A/C on but it won't be constantly heating your room.
Heat tape like they use to keep pipes from freezing might also work. I think there is a way to shorten a run too. Maybe someone with more experience can chime in on that.
