Brewpastor's Coldroom Build

[Tripod]

Looks like you're off to a great start BP! I can't wait to see how this one progresses!

-Tripod

 

[Brewpastor]

OK, two more images. The wiring is 99% done, and the insulation is in - vapor barrier towards the inside!

[/IMG]

 

[jcdillin]

Looking great, I love those hinges you have on the door!

 

[P-Lay]

Do you plan on insulating the door?

 

[Jester369]

Damn it all - I copied your keezer, and now you go and do this! Now I gotta build myself a coldroom!

Looking great!

 

[HVBrewtality]

lookin' good! so jealous.

 

[Runyanka]

Do you plan on insulating the door?

+1 to insulating the door. Just a fair warning, if its a hollow door, DO NOT use the spray in expanding foam. I did this on a door to make it more sound proof in our old house, and that foam will expand and split the door within a day. If there is anyway to take the face off the door, I would and install some insulation that way, glue and clamp back together.

 

[Ice9]

Thus far I have spent:

wood for framing - free
2 sheets of plywood for floor - $19 each
insulation - $90
solid core door - $10 (Habitat Restore)
door hardware - free
8000 BTU AC unit - $199
wiring, switches, outlets and boxes - $32.

He's using a solid core door.

Project's coming along nicely!!!

 

[Brewpastor]

Thanks everyone!

I am planning to insulate the interior of the door when I cover the interior walls.

Jester, get busy!

 

[android]

looks sweet BP... thanks for the update.

 

[Brewpastor]

Got the ac unit in today! Wife bought me a Coolbot - issue settled!

 

[Layne]

Yea wife! Nice touch

 

[Brewpastor]

Here is an install picture:

[/IMG]

 

[Brewpastor]

OK, more advice desired.

I plan on using sheet rock on the exterior, and am thinking of just doing the same inside. Thoughts?

plywood, foam board, composite...

 

[Bobby_M]

Plastic. You can practically hose the place out.

http://www.farmtek.com/farm/supplie...erial-ft1_polymax_wall_4;pg106835_108388.html

 

[ohiobrewtus]

Plastic. You can practically hose the place out.

Agreed. I'd stay away from sheet rock at those temps.

 

[IrregularPulse]

I'd use the pebble looking plastic stuff you see in showers. Like Bobby said. Hose it out.

 

[the_bird]

Plastic?

Remember, peeps, this is BrewPastor.

Stainless steel...

 

[leboeuf]

You could probably get away with taped up plastic contractor's sheet, hehe. I think those fiberglass pebble sheets mentioned are about ~$30 per 4x8 sheet. It would at least look pro without the cost of SS

Congrats on the coolbot! Although you did end all of our geek dreams lol.

 

[Bobby_M]

You could go with 1/4" HDF for strength, then use contact cement for 1/16" white melamine. Anything you can wipe down with an oxyclean slurry sounds good.

Trust me, I was tempted to suggest 1/8" stainless diamond plate.

 

[the_bird]

I agree, though, to a big "no" on the drywall, not for this application.

How do you feel about tile?

 

[Bobby_M]

You could make it looks like a cellar.

http://www.fauxpanels.com/carlton-stone/styles-ledgestone.php?color=47


1/4" dry erase 4 x 8 sheets:
http://mywhiteboards.com/unmeldryerbo.html

 

[the_bird]

If those plastic sheets that I walk by at Depot are ~ $30 a pop, I'd just go that route and not worry about it. You're not going to need THAT many sheets, it's a pretty small space, might as well do it right and not have to think twice about condensation.

 

[Cape Brewing]

For the vapor barrier... I used 6MM plastic sheets and wrapped it on the outside of my studs (so outside of the insulation) but then inside the outside plywood... so... it goes plywood, vapor barrier, studs, extruded foam insulation (4 inch thick sheets) and then the inside of the cooler... and I've never had a problem with mold EXCEPT for a 2 foot by three foot section that I never bothered to insulate when I first built it. Because it wasn't insulated,t eh cold sucked the moisture right outta the room through the wood and the outside of my walk-in got a little mold on it. Once I finally tossed the insulation up, I haven't had a problem since. Nor have I had any problems anywhere else on the cooler.

I'm sure NM is really dry... but it won't take much. You would be surprised.

 

[Cape Brewing]

... oh... and yeah, I would def avoid sheet rock.

and what was all the talk about a heater??? I got lazy and stopped reading... are you nervous about your coils freezing up?? It sounds like the coolbot will prevent that anyway but I've only had a few instances of my coils freezing (about three) over the two years or so my walk-in has been up and running and it was my own fault... I would leave the damn door open like a schmuck while running BLC through my lines or something so it would warm up and suck all sorts of moisture in...

For normal course of bidniz... I have the compressor on my window AC unit (which is vented into the house) wired to a simple thermostat and then the fan on the unit runs 24/7 (and has been for about two years now).

If the walk-in warms up, the compressor kicks on... and then if the coils get any frost (and that would only be if I had the door open again or something) the frost melts instantly when the compressor shuts off and the fans runs with the 38 degree air from the cooler.

Works great.

 

[Brewpastor]

So is there a problem with sheet rock on the exterior?

Is HDF the same thing they make peg board out of?

My construction - so far - is 2x6 frame with insulation between, craft paper vapor barrier on the interior. I have not put any vapor barrier on the exterior. The floor is from floor up, concrete slab, 2x6 frame with insulation fill, craft paper vapor barrier, 6 mil plastic, 3/4" chip board/plywood (whatever it is they call that stuff).

 

[the_bird]

Shouldn't be any problem with rock on the exterior, you don't have the conditions on the outside for condensation to form. If the insulation is working, the cold air should never get through the insulation to meet at the outside of the wall. Even if any did, the air's so dry that any moisture would evaporate almost immediately anyway.

 

[Brewpastor]

I can always go with green board (as in sheet rock not brew board)!

 

[dantodd]

You definitely should have had a vapor barrier between your studs and the cement floor. Since you are in NM you might be OK but ground moisture is a problem and unless you have a very good vapor barrier under your cement the cold will make condensation more likely from any moisture you do have in the cement. The air inside the cooler is dehumidified by the A/C unit so it is unlikely to mold.

According to weatherunderground.com the dew point in Albuquerque is 41 degrees. (Sorry, Corrales wasn't in the system) This means that if you have outside air against one of the walls or the floor as it makes its way through the insulation and wood before it hits the vapor barrier it will start to condense at 41 degrees. This is why you want the vapor barrier on the outside of the walls, so you don't have the moister air contacting the wood and insulation where it can mold. You should be perfectly fine on the interior walls as they will be facing air that is already dehumidified.

If you have a good vapor barrier you shouldn't need green board on the outside as it shouldn't get cold enough on the far side to cause condensation. on the inside I do like the flexible plastic sheets or stainless. Seal the edges well. This makes for a much easier to clean surface. If you use the plastic or thin metal and you have studs inside right now you can add 1/2" foam insulation panels as a backer and increase your R-value further.

 

[samc]

OSB was/is on sale @ HD. About 6.50 per 4'x8' sheet and it's used as exterior sheathing so the cold inside should not be a problem.