I’d love if someone could review my drawing for a BIAB panel I’d like to build. It’s modeled after the electric brew supply drawing but adjusted to account for a 3 wire 240v inlet and a separate 120v inlet. Let me know what y’all think!View attachment 23D325B2-6694-41F1-8A0D-30639EFA1AE3.jpeg
Brewing Panel Question
- Thread starter Kyle7372
- Start date
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I'd be willing to review it but you need more labels. I wouldn't want to assume what devices are meant to do what.
Ya I guess that would help!! I’ll label more.
RufusBrewer
Well-Known Member
If it were my panel, I would put 240 V lamp to reflect that the status of the Element On/Off switch. ON position = the element is capable of being energized.
The way you have it, lamp across the element, the PID might have the element off, but a second later the PID turns the element on. If you see a dark lamp, the status is some what ambiguous. I.e. why is the lamp dark? PID = off or Switch = off. Different status.
With the lamp on when ever the element is capable of being powered, you can avoid errors like dry firing.
The way you have it, lamp across the element, the PID might have the element off, but a second later the PID turns the element on. If you see a dark lamp, the status is some what ambiguous. I.e. why is the lamp dark? PID = off or Switch = off. Different status.
With the lamp on when ever the element is capable of being powered, you can avoid errors like dry firing.
The lamp in parallel with the element is for letting you know that the SSR is actually switching (not just being told to switch by the PID), and that the SSR has not latched in the "On" mode (common failure mode) even tho the PID is trying to switch it off.
This is the proper design concept. You really want both lamps, since they tell you different things.
Brew on
The big question I had on this design change is having the separate 240v HHG source and the separate 120v HNG source, will it work? I can install a 30 amp GFCI for the 240v circuit if needed but not sure if it will work since I don’t have the N. I’m basically trying to recreate the SS brew tech single vessel panel with one pump
Yes you can have separate 240V and 120V power inputs to the control panel. Just make sure everything is kept separate, except ground.
The 240V GFCI does not need a neutral to operate. Just make sure the "Test" button trips the breaker when pressed. You definitely want GFCI protection on the hots that go to your kettle.
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