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RufusBrewer

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If it were my panel, I would put 240 V lamp to reflect that the status of the Element On/Off switch. ON position = the element is capable of being energized.

The way you have it, lamp across the element, the PID might have the element off, but a second later the PID turns the element on. If you see a dark lamp, the status is some what ambiguous. I.e. why is the lamp dark? PID = off or Switch = off. Different status.

With the lamp on when ever the element is capable of being powered, you can avoid errors like dry firing.
 
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Kyle7372

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Thanks for the feedback. I think I can make that and illuminated switch that will be on when the switch is on.
 

doug293cz

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If it were my panel, I would put 240 V lamp to reflect that the status of the Element On/Off switch. ON position = the element is capable of being energized.

The way you have it, lamp across the element, the PID might have the element off, but a second later the PID turns the element on. If you see a dark lamp, the status is some what ambiguous. I.e. why is the lamp dark? PID = off or Switch = off. Different status.

With the lamp on when ever the element is capable of being powered, you can avoid errors like dry firing.
The lamp in parallel with the element is for letting you know that the SSR is actually switching (not just being told to switch by the PID), and that the SSR has not latched in the "On" mode (common failure mode) even tho the PID is trying to switch it off.
Thanks for the feedback. I think I can make that and illuminated switch that will be on when the switch is on.
This is the proper design concept. You really want both lamps, since they tell you different things.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Kyle7372

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The big question I had on this design change is having the separate 240v HHG source and the separate 120v HNG source, will it work? I can install a 30 amp GFCI for the 240v circuit if needed but not sure if it will work since I don’t have the N. I’m basically trying to recreate the SS brew tech single vessel panel with one pump
 

doug293cz

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The big question I had on this design change is having the separate 240v HHG source and the separate 120v HNG source, will it work? I can install a 30 amp GFCI for the 240v circuit if needed but not sure if it will work since I don’t have the N. I’m basically trying to recreate the SS brew tech single vessel panel with one pump
Yes you can have separate 240V and 120V power inputs to the control panel. Just make sure everything is kept separate, except ground.

The 240V GFCI does not need a neutral to operate. Just make sure the "Test" button trips the breaker when pressed. You definitely want GFCI protection on the hots that go to your kettle.
 
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Kyle7372

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I think I just realized that per the drawing, my PID will not receive 120v unless the Emergency button is pushed in...
 
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