johnoswald
Well-Known Member
aint it the truthsomekramers said:I hate spending $8 a six pack, and it is harder to get good beer in a rural area.
the no boil is the simplest (but I boiled them just to make sure they and the utensils were complete aseptic).somekramers said:As for the can kit idea...I was able to find Muntons no boil kits...is that what you mean? Or would any kit work (assuming I went with something easy, like extract brewing)? Definately want simple to start...
I started with their Stout - still have the can label in my brew book!
You can then make a "True Brew" type kit. A little more to do and with OK instructions. After a few of these you'll know if this is what you want to continue with.
skip the spigot and use your cane and siphon tube to bottlesomekramers said:Bottling pail...I ... Basically, would I just need to get a bottling spigot and drill a hole to install it?
truth is the 2 handle capper is in the starter kit because it's cheaper. People learne to make do and not scale up. But, I know of no one who has gone to a 2 hander from a bench style. I personally don't like buying something and then setting it on the shelf. Sure it costs more but it won't be obsolete until you start kegging or invest in a lot of European beer (or the empty bottles).somekramers said:Why in particular a bench style capper? Most of the equipment kits seem to come with the two hander...is that something that would probably end up getting upgraded pretty quickly if I bought an equipment kit?
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Hydrometers are real cheap but also cheaply made - they don't last - CRACK!
A bottle brush? - you don't need it. A high strength bleach solution can soak off any residue easily over night (even the hop/yeast residue in the top of the carboy - just invert it carefully). If you rinse your bottles upon emptying, there is nothing to feed stray yeasts, ants and bugs. And, any bleach solutions can be re-used in the washer on a load of cloth diapers! (Experience knows)