thebirdman
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TY, I seen that port empty but did not want to fry anything not knowing if it was correct
ty again
randy
ty again
randy
I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.
my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....
I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-
no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)
thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
HI, my Brewie B20+ Is no longer heating the boiling tank, It shows it is heating but the temperature stays at 16C the inlet water temperature. Do you have an idea if it is wiring or heating element? Any schematics on how to access that part of the machine? I opened it machine and all that I could access seemed to be fine, but the heating elements are further inside.I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.
my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....
I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-
no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)
thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678
It is most likely caused by a failed thermal cutoff switch. This happens quite often. Repair manuals can be found at brewieforum.net.Do you have an idea if it is wiring or heating element?
It is most likely caused by a failed thermal cutoff switch. This happens quite often. Repair manuals can be found at .
I would suggest either replacing it with a higher rated thermostat, or (at your own risk, it's a last resort fail safe) bypass the whole switch.
Also, your tubing could use some cleaning, cycling some pbw and oxi overnight at 60° (use developer mode, or brewmaster mode if you're using ReBrewie) will often make the tubing crystal clear again.
Try Brewie Community Forum - Login , please note the parts listed are for 120v units.Hello Jasper, Thank you for your suggestions. Can you give me a reference or link to the thermostat and for the high temperature wiring and connections?
Try Brewie Community Forum - Login , please note the parts listed are for 120v units.
If it's a 230v unit you may be able to safely re-use the existing wiring (as the higher voltage also means lower amperage). If you would like to replace the thermostat switch you'll also need a different thermostat switch, rated for 230v/240v@10amps (the 240v heater is rated at 8 amps)
If you're going to repair the Brewie i would recommend to replace the thermostat and improve the wiring/connections for the other heater as well.
If its a 120v unit and you're willing to install a 240v outlet, it's also possible to convert the Brewie to 240v by only replacing the heaters and thermostats. As far as i know all other components in 120v models (low voltage power supply, wiring and solid state relays) should already be rated for 240v, be sure to check this before proceeding.
I'm proud to announce that ReBrewie (Improved software and firmware for your Brewie) has been officially released.
The website is now live at ReBrewie - Improved software and firmware for your Brewie