Brewie

[Hamboner]

Hello everyone!
Is there any way to downgrade the firmware from version 7 to version 6 on the B20?

I'm curious what the reason for wanting to downgrade. I think you lose the 'morecontrol' dev mode but should still be able to use the old dev mode (i think somewhere in this thread someone posted the steps to get into dev mode if you aren't upgraded to the newer software).

That said, I would think it's basically the same as upgrading. You'll need to find the corresponding 'old' sd card image and get it on an sd card. Once that is installed in the machine and booted, you should be able to do the steps on an earlier page to 'downgrade' the firmware on the microcontroller (using the files on the sd card) to match the sd card image version. The newer microcontroller firmware may be backwards compatible with the sd card image so the second half may not even be necessary if you can verify everything works a expected. Please report back your experience.

I'm now on brew 25 or 30 on my original b20 and 15ish on the second one that i fixed from eBay. So far so good.

One thing to note (may be related to my configuration) is that my second B20 had an issue where it would boot fine and after about 30 second just hard freeze. I found that the machine generates log files on the sd card. It had been left on for long periods of time during which the logs filled up the sd card which seemed to cause it to lock up shortly after boot. Interestingly enough, while locked up i could still SSH into the machine and was able to see the SD card was maxed out. After deleting several gigs of old log files it was back to new.

A second thing I've noticed only on my ebay machine (that was manually updated) is that during cleaning and occasionally during a brew, it will fill with water as it should, then say it has no water source. After i hit ok it continues like nothing ever happened (didn't continue filling or anything). More of an annoyance than anything else but wondering if anyone else has experienced this or solved this issue.

 

[c06u]

HP / Agilent 01743-90905 1743A Oscilloscope Operating + Service Manual

I'm curious what the reason for wanting to downgrade. I think you lose the 'morecontrol' dev mode but should still be able to use the old dev mode (i think somewhere in this thread someone posted the steps to get into dev mode if you aren't upgraded to the newer software).

That said, I would think it's basically the same as upgrading. You'll need to find the corresponding 'old' sd card image and get it on an sd card. Once that is installed in the machine and booted, you should be able to do the steps on an earlier page to 'downgrade' the firmware on the microcontroller (using the files on the sd card) to match the sd card image version. The newer microcontroller firmware may be backwards compatible with the sd card image so the second half may not even be necessary if you can verify everything works a expected. Please report back your experience.

I'm now on brew 25 or 30 on my original b20 and 15ish on the second one that i fixed from eBay. So far so good.

One thing to note (may be related to my configuration) is that my second B20 had an issue where it would boot fine and after about 30 second just hard freeze. I found that the machine generates log files on the sd card. It had been left on for long periods of time during which the logs filled up the sd card which seemed to cause it to lock up shortly after boot. Interestingly enough, while locked up i could still SSH into the machine and was able to see the SD card was maxed out. After deleting several gigs of old log files it was back to new.

A second thing I've noticed only on my ebay machine (that was manually updated) is that during cleaning and occasionally during a brew, it will fill with water as it should, then say it has no water source. After i hit ok it continues like nothing ever happened (didn't continue filling or anything). More of an annoyance than anything else but wondering if anyone else has experienced this or solved this issue.

On the water showing no water source occasionally, I found the screen clogged, it was do to my filter case had debris in it (it was new mfg caused) another caution on water is if you have high pressure, it will cause leaks during filling, I installed an r/v water pressure regulator on my filter...as for software/firmware I don't screw with any of that on any device I own period whaether it be camera/TV/toaster you name it, if it works LEAVE IT ALONE my B20 has about 40 brews on it now with no problems, I have two spare units that were basically new and only had manufacturing metal chips in boil pumps so the original buyer never got past the fill cycle, easy fix

 

[olhaus1]

Here is the heart behind the B20. The system on a chip/board setup that is.

A13-SOM-256

I wonder if you picked up the 512 variant if it would run any better?

I purchased a Brewie+ over a year ago because the ad stated "they had fixed all the issues with the original Brewie ", hooked it up in a small pantry like area that was between my kitchen and living room (yeah, I know) brewed 5-5G batches of my own recipes before packaging it back up for a renovation that included a dedicated brewery off my new laundry room. Today I took it back out of the box again and set it up to get ready to brew this weekend. Much to my dismay the unit would not boot; it stayed on the Brewie screen and stopped. I tried several different times having to unplug it and restart it to no avail so I asked Dr. Google for help. He brought me here. I was disheartened to find that the manufacturer has disappeared and that there were sooooo many issues with something that quite honestly, for the price, should be BULLETPROOF! Anyhow on to the issue of not booting...after reading most of these posts I was convinced I would have to replace the SD card and reload the 3.1 OS however, McGyuver posted the link for the Olimex board so I went t here and found the manual for the board and being a reader of techie $hit I found the board has a default SLEEP MODE! So to make this post short and to the point (whoops, sorry) to get your Brewie B20+ TO COMPLETE THE BOOT CYCLE HOLD THE POWER BUTTON ON UNTIL THE ENTIRE BOOT SEQUENCE IS COMPLETE!, I am now happy to report MY B20+ is operational but, I might be afraid to shut it down HA! Thanx to all who post in this forum for the help. (Especially you McGyuver)

 

[Nate R]

I purchased a Brewie+ over a year ago because the ad stated "they had fixed all the issues with the original Brewie ", hooked it up in a small pantry like area that was between my kitchen and living room (yeah, I know) brewed 5-5G batches of my own recipes before packaging it back up for a renovation that included a dedicated brewery off my new laundry room. Today I took it back out of the box again and set it up to get ready to brew this weekend. Much to my dismay the unit would not boot; it stayed on the Brewie screen and stopped. I tried several different times having to unplug it and restart it to no avail so I asked Dr. Google for help. He brought me here. I was disheartened to find that the manufacturer has disappeared and that there were sooooo many issues with something that quite honestly, for the price, should be BULLETPROOF! Anyhow on to the issue of not booting...after reading most of these posts I was convinced I would have to replace the SD card and reload the 3.1 OS however, McGyuver posted the link for the Olimex board so I went t here and found the manual for the board and being a reader of techie $hit I found the board has a default SLEEP MODE! So to make this post short and to the point (whoops, sorry) to get your Brewie B20+ TO COMPLETE THE BOOT CYCLE HOLD THE POWER BUTTON ON UNTIL THE ENTIRE BOOT SEQUENCE IS COMPLETE!, I am now happy to report MY B20+ is operational but, I might be afraid to shut it down HA! Thanx to all who post in this forum for the help. (Especially you McGyuver)

Dude..... great post!! Thanks. I wonder how many times people here have changed boards when this would have solved it??

 

[Ajes]

For those who aren't on facebook, someone has made a custom firmware, and are in the process of putting up a server that will handle the update.
Check here:
https://rebrewie.org/

 

[Bryce Brewer]

For those who aren't on facebook, someone has made a custom firmware, and are in the process of putting up a server that will handle the update.
Check here:
https://rebrewie.org/

That’s awesome, excited to see what it offers! I think this next brew I’m going to do all manual and do a full volume biab with bags split into both tanks to ensure a good conversion and move water between tanks. it would be nice if this new version let me control that more easily and schedule different events without having to babysit. Mainly being able to automatically fire either element if there is water in the tanks in order to maintain a temperature in both tanks. I would love to talk to whoever is working on this to see if this is a possibility.

I have been considering trying to do something like this on my own as I could see being able to do partigyle batches (or two completely different beers) on the Brewie as a pretty simple process after converting to 220V and run both batches simultaneously. Basically doing a full volume biab and then drain “first runnings” to a bucket while adding water for a sparge and quick remash to get the second runnings and increase efficiency. Transfer wort when complete to the boil tank, squeeze the bag, remove the bags, and dump in already collected first runnings into the mash tank.

Then just run two separate boils with the first one having automatic hop additions and the second be manual through a hop spider. I would need to open back up the Brewie again or look at the valve diagram again to know for sure but I’m thinking one or two strategically placed valves would allow me to choose to close the valve(s) and essentially separate the mash and boil tanks to where you could circulate and not have the two worts mix.

I have done all of the wiring mods and added fans to both tanks so I’m not concerned about heat dissipation too much but obviously that will essentially double the heat in the Brewie. I’m not opposed to hacking the back of the Brewie either to allow for heat to come out of the back to help cool.

Sorry about the tangent there, I have just always thought an open source or improved control of pumps and heating elements would go a long way. I have a PLC/HMI and enough knowledge to do something like this if the motherboard or something ever failed but this would be a nice option if it is flexible

 

[Bryce Brewer]

Found the Facebook post and I realize now that what I’m describing won’t be possible since they aren’t modifying the OS code. Might eventually think about doing this myself although I won’t be able to overwrite the OS, I would need to use a separate controller since I don’t have a background in that. Would be a fun project but would probably just make more sense to go to a “traditional” system and build a control panel for a 2 vessel BIAB system.

 

[Tim H]

I feel like this is a stupid question.....but I am going to ask it anyway.

Is the fan mod as straight forward as
Buy fan (https://www.amazon.com/MakerFocus-Printer-40X40X10mm-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B07CH6YC32/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=makerfocus+4pcs+3d+printer+fan+12v,+40mm&qid=1610567610&sr=8-3)
-Open up bottom
-Disconnect a bunch of stuff
-Position fan so 1/2 of it overlaps the metal cut out from the mounting bracket
-Cut foil so air will flow through said hole
-Run wires to the power supply

I thought it was a little more complicated than that....... What about a fan for the mash side, or are people just doing 1 for boil?


Anything else I should know??

 

[jordo_99]

I've done two fan mods and I think you've covered the majority of it.

I've heard of several people just splicing the fan with one of the existing fans (or directly to the PSU) but I connected mine to the MCU board into a spare JST plug just like all the other components.

I'm almost positive the MCU board has three FAN ports and I connected to the open one:
https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LehMVTii...tGkoUdiwCKgBGAs/s1600/IMG_20190906_151935.jpg

Other things I did:

I mounted the fan with only one screw, directly under a valve.

The sheet metal that all the pumps and valves are mounted to has the screw mounting brackets punched out and bent up...one of those holes is right over the wiring so I just that hole a little larger.

I used one of the existing threaded holes for a valve screw and drilled out the screw hole larger...then used a regular fan screw to hold a valve from the top and fan from the bottom -- this ended up with the valve, sheetmetal and fan being sandwiched together in that order...not sure if that will make sense; it's hard to describe

 

[Nate R]

Hello All...
I thought it might be a good idea to re-post the Brewie Forum for anyone who wants or needs files, photos, guides, etc...
This place has EVERYTHING you need, imo.
BrewieForum .net

http://www.brewieforum.net

 

[Tim H]

I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?

 

[Nate R]

I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678

What do you mean by "gunk"?
My understanding is the gunk is burned insulation.
By yes i also knew the later B+ unit did come with better wiring.
IMO... if you are already in there, just do it all. To me physically getting to that area was the hardest part. I say do it all and be done with it.

 

[Tim H]

What do you mean by "gunk"?
My understanding is the gunk is burned insulation.
By yes i also knew the later B+ unit did come with better wiring.
IMO... if you are already in there, just do it all. To me physically getting to that area was the hardest part. I say do it all and be done with it.

Nate,

From what I understand, the burned part was the adhesive. It seems like the adhesive corroded the connections and caused problems.

it appears that my connections are in very good shape. If you replace the wire, do you add new adhesive???

won’t the new adhesive just melt again??

 

[Nate R]

My original Brewie B20 (not the plus) had the wires actually start to melt- too much current and heat.
The plastic parts went first, but there was black 'gunk' in various areas.

You might be fine... my $0.02 is just replace what you can while you have it open.
The B+ is easier to take apart than the B20, but why not clean it all up at once?

Also- i did not do the fan mod... i simply aim one of the larger fans i bought into the boil side. Not perfect, but it moves the air around.
There is way less room in the B20 for the fans.

 

[Nate R]

Hello fellow Brewie users...

So... i have an issue with my original B20 unit.
During my brew today, after the heated strike water was pumped into the mash tun, it took a long time before it wanted the 2nd water intake. Then all the mash water ended up back in the boil kettle.

Same when cleaning, same when i did a test brew.

I also turned it off, unplugged it, between each trial.

I assume a valve is not working- does anyone know if this is common? I will head over to brewie forum next, but before i take this thing apart i was hoping someone may have some thoughts.

Many thanks all!

 

[jordo_99]

Hello fellow Brewie users...

So... i have an issue with my original B20 unit.
During my brew today, after the heated strike water was pumped into the mash tun, it took a long time before it wanted the 2nd water intake. Then all the mash water ended up back in the boil kettle.

Same when cleaning, same when i did a test brew.

I also turned it off, unplugged it, between each trial.

I assume a valve is not working- does anyone know if this is common? I will head over to brewie forum next, but before i take this thing apart i was hoping someone may have some thoughts.

Many thanks all!

I haven't had a valve fail but if it did (and isn't simply unplugged)...it's likely one of two things:

1. The servo motor died (which is cheap and easy to source on amazon)
2. The plastic housing/arm broke and the servo can longer pinch the tubing closed (this could be 3d printed but I can't assist there...my best guess is that you'd need to just need to replace it entirely)

 

[Nate R]

I haven't had a valve fail but if it did (and isn't simply unplugged)...it's likely one of two things:

1. The servo motor died (which is cheap and easy to source on amazon)
2. The plastic housing/arm broke and the servo can longer pinch the tubing closed (this could be 3d printed but I can't assist there...my best guess is that you'd need to just need to replace it entirely)

I think since every other function appears to work (i.e. a short clean cycle and a full drain cycle both do what they should do normally) maybe the servo is bad?
Any links or suggestions on the amazon replacement? If i am going to take this thing apart again, i want to have the part first.

Thanks.

 

[jordo_99]

This is what I saved in my Amazon wish list back when I looked up the part (MG996R):
https://www.amazon.com/MG996R-Torque-Digital-Helicopter-IFANCY-TECH/dp/B01GN07I5U
I'm not sure if you'll want four or not but I recall the prices for 1-2 being almost as high

 

[Nate R]

Awesome- thank you!
I should not be so lazy- i am sure the parts are on the forum. Thank you.

I am kinda at the point of... do i repair this thing again... or just look for a new all in one? Grainfather probably for the 110v.
I would hate to spend more time opening this thing up again only to have it fail again.

Thanks for the part link!!

 

[TwistedGray]

Awesome- thank you!
I should not be so lazy- i am sure the parts are on the forum. Thank you.

I am kinda at the point of... do i repair this thing again... or just look for a new all in one? Grainfather probably for the 110v.
I would hate to spend more time opening this thing up again only to have it fail again.

Thanks for the part link!!

Look into the Mash and Boil, if it's not too small. You poor Brewie guys.

 

[Nate R]

Look into the Mash and Boil, if it's not too small. You poor Brewie guys.

Ha ha ha... it was a fun ride. I got mine super cheap... i feel bad for the original backers. At least i knew the risks before i bought. But.. that dead horse bas been beaten, resurected, beaten to death again, over and over here....

Mash and boil huh? How about anvil? I only do 5 gallons, and really want to stay 110V. I want programability for step mash... actually, i am very spoiled from my Brewie. I want all the ease and repeatability of the Brewie lol.

Thanks.


Edit: browsing my favorite on-line store i found this comparison chart. I do not think morebeer will care if i share here.

 

[TwistedGray]

Mash and boil huh? How about anvil? I only do 5 gallons, and really want to stay 110V. I want programability for step mash... actually, i am very spoiled from my Brewie. I want all the ease and repeatability of the Brewie lol.

There are a few reasons that I liked the M&B over other ones and a lot of it boiled down to cost. I've also had mine for a few years now before there were a lot of other options. It runs of 110V, has programmable temp settings, can ferment in it, can distill if you want, and it's not expensive. They do have "fancier" models with build-in chillers and pumps. I have the basic model without the frills, and I've been brewing in it for three years I think...no issues.

I mostly do 3-5 gallons myself, for reference. I've brewed, fermented, and bottled from the M&B. It's a good all-in-one : )

 

[JeffersonCoastal]

I just obtained a used BREWIE. Looking at the instructions & video it says you must use a BREWIE mash bag. Those I cannot find! Anyone who still brews with a BREWIE, what is the preferred alternative?

 

[Nate R]

I just obtained a used BREWIE. Looking at the instructions & video it says you must use a BREWIE mash bag. Those I cannot find! Anyone who still brews with a BREWIE, what is the preferred alternative?

You can get an ArborFab stainless basket (about $160?) Or you can use any brew-in-a-bag bag as long it seals.
Did your unit come with a false bottom??

Note- you will get better efficiciency with two bags in the Brewie.

 

[JeffersonCoastal]

@Nate R Thanks for your response! I'm not new to brewing but am new to Brewie and/or BIAB. When you say "any" brew bag, do you remember what size is needed? And by sealing, just so that the grain doesn't spill out right?

 

[Nate R]

@Nate R Thanks for your response! I'm not new to brewing but am new to Brewie and/or BIAB. When you say "any" brew bag, do you remember what size is needed? And by sealing, just so that the grain doesn't spill out right?

I will PM you- i have exrra bags.

I will measure the bag when i get home.

But yes the Brewie bag is a zipper bag, which keeps the grain inside. Most BIAB bags i see are loose on top.

I asked about the false bottom because the Brewie will scorch immediatly if anything hits the bottom.

 

[JasperB]

Found the Facebook post and I realize now that what I’m describing won’t be possible since they aren’t modifying the OS code.

Besides the built from scratch B20+ firmware, shortly after i posted the teaser video on fb we managed to make some improvements to the software/UI as well. Developer Mode (renamed as Brewmaster Mode) will be easily accessible via a button on the home screen and allows you to set a target temperature for both heaters simultaneously.

We think our current build is stable and expect to be able to release the software soon™, if you (or anyone else) would like to test ReBrewie and provide some feedback, pm me on Facebook or Telegram(@JasperB).

 

[thebirdman]

I finally decided to resurrect the brewie and thought a thorough inspection + fan mod would be a good place to start.

my B+ was one of the later models produced with “upgraded” wires (at least that’s what Brewie told me) so I don’t know if this warrants me re-doing the current wiring....

I removed the burned gunk on all the connections and have this-

no discoloration on the actual connection points, and the heat shrink seems to be in tact.... (I will be adding a fan to keep things cool)

thoughts?
Can I just button it back up and brew?
Do I need to cover the connection points with anything?View attachment 714677View attachment 714678

Well after 97 brews, mine decided not to heat the BT today....LOl wires are fried...... I was hoping to shoot a happy pic of 100 successful brews with no issues, but crap happens... unfortunately no connectors on hand, so will have to repair this week....
As for the "Gunk" Dielectric grease helps protect the terminals, you don't need much
As a retailer that has been stuck with them, have 3 more new units 1 B20 2 B20+ one returned B20 lightly used. so parts for life

 

[thebirdman]

Girl is back up and running less 1 bottom fan..... lid shifted and fell pulling off the fan connectors, found one on the main board, cannot see where the second connects ?
anyone?
tkx

 

[JasperB]

lid shifted and fell pulling off the fan connectors, found one on the main board, cannot see where the second connects ?
anyone?
tkx

B20+? It should be connected to the red pcb 'above' the HV board, the connector is marked as "VENT"