Brewhemoth conicals?

[kenlock]

Some where on this forum (I thought it was in this thread but can't find the post) someone reported using a pump in the 1/4 to 1/2 hp range (I think) with great results. I think they used smaller tubing to make up for the lack of hp on a brewershardware.com spray ball.

I wish I could find it because it is tax refund time!

I think this is the one you are looking for: link

 

[thatjonguy]

I think that is the one. That looks like a 1/6 hp pump on the label. I know there is another thread out there as well about this. He was using .5 inch tubing and switched to .75 inch and it completely changed his set up (for the better).

 

[Jukas]

I use a 1 HP pump and a spray ball from brewers hardware and it takes all of the crud off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/900W-1-HP-S...921?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5f0218a1

I didn't see a PSI rating anywhere on that pump.. would it have enough umph to push this?

http://www.brewershardware.com/CIP10TC10TC40.html

 

[cfrazier77]

I didn't see a PSI rating anywhere on that pump.. would it have enough umph to push this?

http://www.brewershardware.com/CIP10TC10TC40.html

That is the exact pump that I use and I use the same spray ball. You can hear it spin. You should be good with it.

 

[-MG-]

Maybe someone can help me out on a question.

What is the value proposition for the brewhemoth?

It seems when you start talking about tri-clamp/chiller its $774 (not sure what shipping is to Iowa). When you start talking about fittings, depending on what you are trying to accomplish, you are talking maybe another $150-$250 more? So we are talking about a $1k conical.

I like the idea that I can pressure ferment since I do that with my sanke's now. That isn't a deal breaker, but its nice to have that. It seems like you can setup relatively easily a CIP system and I like that too because I hate cleaning Sanke's.

While not the exact same size, you can buy a 14.5 gallon stout with all the fittings without cooling for what looks like close to $500. I'm sure this has be debated, maybe someone can point me to that discussion.

 

[diatonic]

...

(not sure what shipping is to Iowa).

...

The Brewhemoths are all listed with free shipping.

EDIT: Also, the Brewhemoths are made in the USA and the Stout Tanks are made in China if you care.

 

[-MG-]

The Brewhemoths are all listed with free shipping.

EDIT: Also, the Brewhemoths are made in the USA and the Stout Tanks are made in China if you care.

That's worth something to me. I'm still on the fence on plastic, but also am thinking long term since I have noticed as my brewery has expanded I am buying upgrades of similar items I have and could have maybe got them in the beginning.

Are there specials run for these ever? Or is demand high enough they don't have to?

 

[Jukas]

Maybe someone can help me out on a question.

What is the value proposition for the brewhemoth?

It seems when you start talking about tri-clamp/chiller its $774 (not sure what shipping is to Iowa). When you start talking about fittings, depending on what you are trying to accomplish, you are talking maybe another $150-$250 more? So we are talking about a $1k conical.

I like the idea that I can pressure ferment since I do that with my sanke's now. That isn't a deal breaker, but its nice to have that. It seems like you can setup relatively easily a CIP system and I like that too because I hate cleaning Sanke's.

While not the exact same size, you can buy a 14.5 gallon stout with all the fittings without cooling for what looks like close to $500. I'm sure this has be debated, maybe someone can point me to that discussion.

I shopped all major conical vendors and ended up ordering a brewhemoth. The stout was a close second though it was going to be about $700 shipped for the customized version I wanted.

What pushed me towards the brewhemoth in order was

1) Made in the USA
2) pressurizable beyond the 3-5psi of most other conicals.
3) variable batch size from 5gal up to 18 (or some have even said 20gal)
4) 20 day build time compared up to 3 months for a special order stout

 

[cfrazier77]

Being upfront, I am a happy brewhemoth owner.

In addition to the above reasons,
1) Made in the USA
2) pressure fermenting, you can do it in a sanke but what other conical can you do it in, yeast and trub dumping.
3) variable batch size from 5gal up to 20gal, comparing a 14 gal stout is not apples to apples.
4) 20 day build time compared up to 3 months for a special order stout

5) internal chilling. I priced a stout with an internal stainless steel coil. It changed the the price a lot. I did not want to spend all this money and then buy a up right freezer for temp controlling. Factor in the freezer and cost go up again. Lastly, I did not want to put it somewhere I could not see. It is a completely non brewing reason, but I like to see it fermenting away, I polished mine, when I go into the basement for something.

 

[CharlosCarlies]

I'm sure this has been mentioned before, but on the subject of pressurizing the brewhemoth, would this work?

Right now I'm taking off the blow-off right towards the end of active fermentation, adding the pressurizer, then once it's ready to crash cool I've been adding a few PSI to compensate for the vacuum created by cooling. My question:

Since the beer will shortly be at serving temps, could I crank the pressurizer to 10-12 PSI and let the beer carb up as it's cold-conditioning?

 

[diatonic]

Since the beer will shortly be at serving temps, could I crank the pressurizer to 10-12 PSI and let the beer carb up as it's cold-conditioning?

I don't see why not. They offer a spunding valve that is adjustable from 0-100psi and has a pressure gauge on it. It also has a ball lock gas in connector.

http://brewhemoth.com/latest-product-spunding-valve

 

[CharlosCarlies]

Yeah, I wish I had bought that instead but already have the pressurizer. I do have an extra CO2 tank and regulator, so I figured I could just leave it set at 10-12 PSI and just let it do it's thing.

 

[StMarcos]

Posted this before, but thought I'd do so again as we're discussing pressurized ferments. Quite a simple build, and wasn't too dear.

 

[cscade]

Since we're talking about pressurizing, here's a thread I wrote up on how I do it in my Brewhemoth.

Bottom line is, feel free to spund/force carb if you're not dry hopping. If you are dry hopping and need to filter enroute to the keg, then the carbonation creates some serious foaming in the line/keg, which may effect head retention.

I love mine, and as many have said above, the way I use it (under pressure) nothing else compares. Also the guys at brewhemoth are super easy to work with on customizations, and in my case it only extended build time by a week.

 

[Jukas]

My hemoth arrived on Friday, so now I need to start getting together the tri clamp fittings and cip system. The only thing I wasn't expecting is bare tubing on the IC. What do most people use here?

 

[DaleP]

I slip tubing over the tube and hose clamp. Its cheap works great.

 

[Jukas]

I use a 1 HP pump and a spray ball from brewers hardware and it takes all of the crud off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/900W-1-HP-S...921?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5f0218a1

What size tubing do you use? I can't find a spec on that pump and I'm guessing it's either 3/4 or 1/2" but I can't tell which.

You want to match gasket size to the ferrule size when ordering correct? This is my first time working with tri clover fittings and I'd hate to order the wrong gaskets. Any reason to choose Silicone over EPDM or vice versa?

 

[cfrazier77]

What size tubing do you use? I can't find a spec on that pump and I'm guessing it's either 3/4 or 1/2" but I can't tell which.

I used 1 1/4" inside diameter hose.

 

[cscade]

Did you find anything nasty in this ebay pump? I once bought a Lowes sump pump for a CIP attempt, and it spit up all kinds of lubricants and oils which I would not want in my fermentor. Just checking before I pull the trigger, thanks!

I used 1 1/4" inside diameter hose.

 

[cfrazier77]

I beleive it was advertised as oilless, if it is not there are others in the same price range that are. I change not had a problem.

 

[fakr]

I noticed a lot of questions about what type of pump to use with a CIP ball. CIP balls are designed to be used with high pressure, so a pump needs to be a positive pressure pump, capable to pressures withing the CIP ball pressure rating.

Here is a good quality, and very affordable positive pressure pump rated at 60PSI, right in range for a CIP ball:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00571IFN6/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Chugger, march, and other similar pumps just don't make enough pressure. Sure you can turn them on and the CIP ball will spray water around, but you might ah well jump around under one of those high water efficiency shower heads!

The above pump I mentioned is a great deal and will make brewhemoth cleaning a snap.

thought I'd share

 

[-MG-]

I was considering this pump for a keg washer:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-hors...ty-water-pump-with-float-69300.html?hftref=cj

None of these pumps list a PSI, but sounds like people don't have an issue using sprayballs with them. Haven't bought it yet, getting feedback in another thread about it first.

 

[fakr]

the only reason I would chose the pump I posted over a submersible type is the shurflow states a psi rating of 60 psi, and is good up to 170F. The submersibles don't state either.

just throwing that out there.

 

[cfrazier77]

Its not perfect but I believe you can use the amount of feet a pump can pump straight up. Once you get a certain distance, say 20 feet, it takes good pressure to raise it higher. For example the above put is rated for 26.5 feet of lift.

 

[cscade]

Moving < 2gpm, that doesn't look like it would work for CIP regardless of its pressure tolerance.

Here is a good quality, and very affordable positive pressure pump rated at 60PSI, right in range for a CIP ball:

http://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-8005-733-155-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B00571IFN6
)

 

[-MG-]

the only reason I would chose the pump I posted over a submersible type is the shurflow states a psi rating of 60 psi, and is good up to 170F. The submersibles don't state either.

just throwing that out there.

I just went to harbor freight and picked up this pump:

http://www.harborfreight.com/35-horsepower-dirty-water-pump-with-float-switch-69298.html

The box says 21 PSI on the outside. There were other versions, including the one I linked above but it was only 8 PSI.

 

[Jukas]

I wouldn't think 3/5HP would have enough umph.. though this one probably would and is only a few bucks more.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-horsepower-dirty-water-pump-with-float-69301.html

 

[cfrazier77]

Watch the temp rating, they one is max 77 degrees.

 

[-MG-]

Watch the temp rating, they one is max 77 degrees.

I've noticed almost all of the pumps have that on them, yet people haven't had an issue going with hot water.

I also got their warranty from harbor freight which he told me if I were to do anything to it they will replace it. He said I could even drive over it and they still replace it.

 

[fakr]

Moving < 2gpm, that doesn't look like it would work for CIP regardless of its pressure tolerance.

Lookup the GPM rating on any electric pressure washer out there, they are all around 1.3-2GPM.

Take it or leave it, I'm just suggesting a pump with actual temp and PSI ratings that work with CIP balls for $75. pump self primes to 11' vertical as well.