Brewhardware new RIMS tube

[Retrofit]

Wow, makes me want to rebuild from scratch. Don't tell my wife!

 

[fur_252]

Thanks for the picture. No issue with heat on the power cord?

Nope haven't had any issue with the cord heating up by the burner. Was kinda worried about it when I first fired the burner up to see if it would.

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Got my tube a few months back but finally got around to doing a water test and trial run just yesterday. All I can say is thank you Bobby! Works beautifully and considering my lack of electric skills, was very simple to get to work. Hardest part was finding the time!! And that's

not right .....

 

[owentp]

Do you have a pump & the RIMS running off your controller? Is it 120v or 220v?

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Yes there is a pump and the control box is off to the right but mostly cut off. System is running off a normal 120v outlet.

 

[owentp]

Is the supply to the box 120v? Do you have wiring pics or diagrams?

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Yes. It connects to a dedicated 120v/20amp plug. I never did a wiring diagram... Just went with all the info in various threads here. Gotta say again that Bobby's set up was very high quality and best price. Here is a picture of the control box





And here is the guts half wired






And to wrap it up one more pic of on awesome rims tube!!

 

[owentp]

So about how much recirculating wort could a 120v 1500w element handle in a RIMS tube?

 

[de3isit]

Here is a mock up of one of the locations I'm thinking about. It is currently held in place with a c clamp. I am brewing this weekend and if everything works well I'll weld it in place.

 

[de3isit]

So about how much recirculating wort could a 120v 1500w element handle in a RIMS tube?

Not quite sure what you mean? I have a 120V 1500W element and it did a great job at maintaining temp during my test boil. I even turned it up a few degrees and it worked fine at raising the temp as well.

 

[owentp]

What was the volume of your wt recirculating from your mash?

 

[de3isit]

What was the volume of your wt recirculating from your mash?

I tested it with 10 gallons.

 

[14chow]

If I get this tube assembly, would it make sense to get something like this kit as well or are there better/easier options to use with this tube? I am pretty much starting from scratch with my build.

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/rims-20a-kit.html

 

[reuliss]

If I get this tube assembly, would it make sense to get something like this kit as well or are there better/easier options to use with this tube? I am pretty much starting from scratch with my build.

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/rims-20a-kit.html

You can do that if it fits your needs. Assuming you are using a 2000W element or below and that you plan on using two pumps, then, sure, this will work just great, I'm sure. Note that you'll still need to purchase a separate PID.

If that's not your desired setup, then you can search the wiring diagrams on the automated brewing forum for something that more closely meets your needs. I recently finished a control panel that way. I didn't have much experience with projects like this, so I definitely hit some bumps a long the way, but the HBT community came to my aid lots of times.

I guess I just encourage you to spend a good deal of time planning and really thinking about who you want your build to work. Depending on what you have in mind, many of these from-scratch builds take an enormous amount of time. I know mine did. All of that said, it can be very satisfying.

Good luck!

 

[reuliss]

You can do that if it fits your needs. Assuming you are using a 2000W element or below and that you plan on using two pumps, then, sure, this will work just great, I'm sure. Note that you'll still need to purchase a separate PID.

If that's not your desired setup, then you can search the wiring diagrams on the automated brewing forum for something that more closely meets your needs. I recently finished a control panel that way. I didn't have much experience with projects like this, so I definitely hit some bumps a long the way, but the HBT community came to my aid lots of times.

I guess I just encourage you to spend a good deal of time planning and really thinking about who you want your build to work. Depending on what you have in mind, many of these from-scratch builds take an enormous amount of time. I know mine did. All of that said, it can be very satisfying.

Good luck!

Looks like you'll also need to purchase an enclosure.

 

[Flomaster]

If I get this tube assembly, would it make sense to get something like this kit as well or are there better/easier options to use with this tube? I am pretty much starting from scratch with my build.

http://www.ebrewsupply.com/rims-20a-kit.html

that would work, if it meets your needs. that setup is for 1 element and 2 pump 1 pid and 1 timer.

might you be able to source the parts cheaper? I don't know that's up to you.

I might use that wiring diagram and buy my parts, because right now I have 1 Rims tube with pump and pid in toolbox and another pump. I'd like to build a nice control panel to house it all, but in the long run I plan on going all electric so im not sure if I should just wait and do it all at once.

-=jason=-

 

[14chow]

I guess I just encourage you to spend a good deal of time planning and really thinking about who you want your build to work. Depending on what you have in mind, many of these from-scratch builds take an enormous amount of time. I know mine did. All of that said, it can be very satisfying.

Agree with the planning but with all the great information in this forum and sooooo many differnet means to an end, it's almost becoming information overload! In my mind (currently!), I'm thinking single tier, 2 pumps, still utilize my cooler tun, propane burners on HLT and BK, and RIMS. Really don't think I need to automate the brurners since I believe I can use the RIMS setup for sparging (after getting the HLT up to temp with the burner). Might be worng on the sparge though.

But at some point I need to $#^% or get off the pot!

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Wondering if anyone out there has tried attaching their rims tube directly to their mlt with cam locks and no tubing in between. So the output of the tube gets a type D connection that would attach directly to the type A on my mlt return.

Two reasons I see this as being helpful. Less tubing means less heat loss so why not go straight into the mlt? Also seems like a very easy way to keep the rims tube stable while in use but easy to break down for clean up
Thks!

 

[reuliss]

Wondering if anyone out there has tried attaching their rims tube directly to their mlt with cam locks and no tubing in between. So the output of the tube gets a type D connection that would attach directly to the type A on my mlt return.

Two reasons I see this as being helpful. Less tubing means less heat loss so why not go straight into the mlt? Also seems like a very easy way to keep the rims tube stable while in use but easy to break down for clean up
Thks!

You'd still need to have a pump in line between the out of the MLT and the in of the RIMS tube.

 

[de3isit]

Wondering if anyone out there has tried attaching their rims tube directly to their mlt with cam locks and no tubing in between. So the output of the tube gets a type D connection that would attach directly to the type A on my mlt return.

Two reasons I see this as being helpful. Less tubing means less heat loss so why not go straight into the mlt? Also seems like a very easy way to keep the rims tube stable while in use but easy to break down for clean up
Thks!

I never thought of it like that. I really like that idea. I think I have the right fittings to try it. Will post a picture later today.

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Nice. Looking forward to the pics. And yes, I got the pump working the flow out of the mlt into the tube.

 

[Bobby_M]

You could certainly hang the rims off the MLT return but you'd either need to make up a back to back B/D to couple the two males together or reverse the fitting on your return to a D so the rims inserts directly.
In other words, you may think that the RIMS has type A cams threaded on to NPT threads, but that thing is welded right to the tube.

My only concern would be providing stability at the bottom of the tube as that would be a lot of weight leveraged off of your return port. Perhaps a rubber foot on the 8mm bolt that I provide with the kit.

 

[Sebas83]

I definitely am curious about these attached directly to a cooler. Either direct cam connection or through short tubing.

 

[old-pasture-brew]

Got the parts in and did a quick test. Slapped the typeD fitting on the mlt return port and found the tube connected nicely.






I agree 100% with Bobby that there needs to be some support at the bottom of the tube back to the kettle to ease the pull on the upper output from the tube. Which would be a very simple thing as there is a built in nut on the tri-clover (nice!). However. As you all can see from the picture below, I have an issue with the tube extending too far below the kettle. Measure twice...






I'm working on a three way valve so I can flow either from the rims or the hlt without disconnecting and might get a better angle off that. Will report back as it comes together.

 

[Beeskneesbrew]

http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10869GL.aspx

Has anyone used this element for this rims tube? Just got my rims tube yesterday and I think this is exactly what im looking for. Any thoughts or concerns?

 

[Bobby_M]

That's a 240v element. Is that what you were looking for?

 

[Beeskneesbrew]

Yup...that it's what my panel is wired for.

 

[BrewingGunner]

Bobby thanks for the great hardware! Works like a charm!

 

[Beeskneesbrew]

I mounted mine similar to old pasture brew...I agree I'll need to fashion a way to attach to the bottom. I really like the look!

View attachment 154628

 

[Beeskneesbrew]

Here is the picture.