• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

BrewEveryday.com Recipe Suggestions

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
How about the same base with differing simple sugars: white,brown,soft brown,caramel sugar,honey,maple syrup ect.
An easy base of 80% base malt,10crystal and 10% sugar.

Depending on how weird u wanna get, you could add more types of sugar to this list, such as: Agave Nectar, molasses, treacle, powdered sugar, turbinado sugar

Other experiements for YoB could be SMASH hops experiements. Trying a different hop every day in same style, or maybe something like this:
A week of wheat beers using different "typical" wheat beer hop in each (Hallertau, Hersbrucker, Mandarina Bavaria)
Then a week of brown SMASH, same concept
A week of IPAs (cascade, Nelson Sauvign, Citra, Millenium)

I think the styles i listed lend themselves well to SMASH recipes, so you can make them simply and efficiently. Plus if you are using same malt/yeast for a week, with only differing hops, it would make it easier to buy malt in advance, and maybe pitch 1 yeast starter and split btw a few days worth of wort at once instead of using a new yeast packet every day. Simplicity is key to your marathon YoB, imo.
 
Very interesting project.

I'd be interested in a series of beer brewed with the same recipe but with different 2 rows, pils, and 6 row. American, Belgian, English, etc.

And APA or blond would be a good base for showing the differences of the base malts.
 
Tex, I definitely will compare hops across different styles. SMASH isn't really necessary from a simplicity standpoint- I keep several pounds of most specialty grains and really enjoy using multiple malts for complexity. 5% of a typical grain bill is only 2oz for me! However, I do want to try single hopping different styles though!
 
Very interesting project.

I'd be interested in a series of beer brewed with the same recipe but with different 2 rows, pils, and 6 row. American, Belgian, English, etc.

And APA or blond would be a good base for showing the differences of the base malts.


I really want to do a base malt comparison - especially with different brands of 2 row. I would like to do the series across several beer styles, maybe APA, IPA, stout, and Amber or English bitters. Basically all of the styles that I brew and drink.
 
I would be shooting for, no I am not joking, 1.038-1.042.
Very quaffable and the contribution from the sugars should shine through.

In such a low gravity beer, that would really serve to dry it out. Hence, lose most of the sugar character. I understand the logic of not having a whole lot of competing malt flavors, but this may actually work to your disadvantage.
 
Since you're only a month in, now would be the time to do a series of beers that need some serious aging. RIS, sours, barleywines, lagers. These big and/or complex styles will be very rewarding when your project is done. I made a double smoked rye porter that came out great. I'd be happy to share the recipe if you want.

From an experimental perspective, RIS is a great background for experimenting. Different sugars, different caramelized malts and vaires hop additions can all change the complexity and drinkability and would be really interesting to pair side by side. Not to mention that they'll age well where some that you are doing undoubtedly won't.

This is a nice project and, if done carefully, has the potential to add some knowledge to this community. I hope you are taking great notes!

Cheers!
 
Not sure if someone already mentioned this, but how about trying an experiment between different times of adding the sugars? Beginning of boil, mid boil, end of boil, primary, secondary? I have heard, especially with darker candi syrups, this changes the flavor profile.
 
In such a low gravity beer, that would really serve to dry it out. Hence, lose most of the sugar character. I understand the logic of not having a whole lot of competing malt flavors, but this may actually work to your disadvantage.


Badlee and BigPerm, I have never used sugar in a beer (expect in an experiment that was made to test my system and not to produce good tasting beer). I need to do a lot of research before I design a series around different sugars and syrups. Are they generally used in place of Crystal malts? Mainly for color or flavor or clarity? I do know that beers brewed with sugar have great clarity!

I am really interested now! I will flip through my brewing literature and try to find some good knowledge on sugars.
 
BigPerm, I would love to see any recipes that you have. A few others have suggested brewing beers now that require aging. How long is typical for a RIS? I've only brewed American and foreign export stouts so far.
 
Not sure if someone already mentioned this, but how about trying an experiment between different times of adding the sugars? Beginning of boil, mid boil, end of boil, primary, secondary? I have heard, especially with darker candi syrups, this changes the flavor profile.


Once I have experimented with different sugars and syrups, this is exactly the type of series that I will do. The YoB is all about learning and my top two areas of interest are yeast and timing.
 
Hop additions, one at 60, fwh, 60&30, 60&30&5, dry hopping you could get thirty tests easily.



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
Hop additions, one at 60, fwh, 60&30, 60&30&5, dry hopping you could get thirty tests easily.



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew


That's coming up soon! I am especially interested in a hop bill that can make a great IPA with no dry hops. I don't think it's possible, but I'm going to try! Maybe making a dry hop tea in a French press to add, a homemade torpedo/hop rocket, huge flameout hops, etc. Dry hopping just sucks.
 
That's coming up soon! I am especially interested in a hop bill that can make a great IPA with no dry hops. I don't think it's possible, but I'm going to try! Maybe making a dry hop tea in a French press to add, a homemade torpedo/hop rocket, huge flameout hops, etc. Dry hopping just sucks.

I have been playing around with that concept. You really can't replace dryhops. Hop bursting and whirlpool help, but the end product is different. A good dryhopped IPA is the best.
 
I have been playing around with that concept. You really can't replace dryhops. Hop bursting and whirlpool help, but the end product is different. A good dryhopped IPA is the best.


I agree. I just don't enjoy doing it. And you lose so much beer!
 
Badlee and BigPerm, I have never used sugar in a beer (expect in an experiment that was made to test my system and not to produce good tasting beer). I need to do a lot of research before I design a series around different sugars and syrups. Are they generally used in place of Crystal malts? Mainly for color or flavor or clarity? I do know that beers brewed with sugar have great clarity!

I am really interested now! I will flip through my brewing literature and try to find some good knowledge on sugars.

They can have a lot of different purposes. Cane sugars are used in tripels and IIPAs to increase fermentability and leave a drier beer (the extra alcohol is a bonus). Other sugars, like more unrefined sugars and candi syrups are used for their contributions to complexity.

I think an interesting experiment would be to select a base recipe of, say, pilsner malt and maybe a small (~5%) amount of wheat, to 1.060 gravity and then add 5-10% of the sugar (getting you to 1.070, ballpark). The simplicity will allow the sugar to come through in the flavor and the color contributions to be noted also. If you make them a little stronger, they'll hold up better to age and will be easy to compare across batches as they age.

If I were going to do this, I'd select a belgian strain. Wyeast Belgian Ardennes (A'chouffe) has a nice clean character for a belgian strain.

Good luck!
 
BigPerm, I would love to see any recipes that you have. A few others have suggested brewing beers now that require aging. How long is typical for a RIS? I've only brewed American and foreign export stouts so far.

A couple months is fine for a RIS. A fun thing to do with this could be to make a base recipe and progressively change the percentage of roasted barley:chocolate malt. You'd be able to (sorta) map the progression from porter to stout. Clean english yeast.
 
I was also thinking of incrementally changing one beer into another. I was thinking malty amber ale into IPA over a week or two, and I like the roast idea also.
 
Not sure where's best to comment, FB, here or your blog.

Trub experiments yay! Starsan shouldn't ruin it, but 8 oz in a gallon is pretty high concentration.

You should do a mash time experiment too if you have time. Start at 90, and decrease all the way down to the 20 minutes that RM-MN lives by. Note that the finer the crush, the quicker the conversion is supposed to be. If you have grain trub problems, consider using two bags if possible or throwing some rice hulls in maybe.
 
Not sure where's best to comment, FB, here or your blog.

Trub experiments yay! Starsan shouldn't ruin it, but 8 oz in a gallon is pretty high concentration.

You should do a mash time experiment too if you have time. Start at 90, and decrease all the way down to the 20 minutes that RM-MN lives by. Note that the finer the crush, the quicker the conversion is supposed to be. If you have grain trub problems, consider using two bags if possible or throwing some rice hulls in maybe.


Thanks for commenting! I probably check HBTalk more than anything, so comments here are great.

I'm excited for the trub series, too. I just need to get my head in the game! The re-brew of last night is half way through the boil right now.

I don't think that Starsan will ruin the beer, but it will change it a lot!! If it still comes out well, no one will ever need dear the foam again.

I like the mash series idea. Forgive my ignorance, who or what is RM-MN? I'm all about a 20 min mash if it will work, but my experience so far is that, at least with my full volume mashes, 90 minutes yields more than 60. I can't remember how many points, but I will try to remember to measure tomorrow. I have also read that just because the sugars are all converted doesn't mean that the mash is through doing its job. I need to research that more.

Ultimately I need to find an easy and consistent way to mash with as little hands on as possible. I love my paper thin kettle for many reasons (if it was any thinner, it would be a stainless steel bag), but the major drawback is losing heat during mashing. I use the oven, but with different techniques depending on how much attention I can give it that day. Some days I start the mash and leave the house for a few hours. Other days I stir every 15 minutes adding heat each time. Tonight I put a 149 degree mash into a cold oven and turned it to 179 for 45 minutes. It was at 154.2, and I stirred and turned the oven off for 45 more minutes. It ended at 153.5. I might try 30 minutes of heat next time. I look forward to finding a process that works well for my equiptment.
 
Will continue to comment here then. You should link to this thread on your blog maybe?

No doubt starsan will impact it in some fashion. I'd be interested in how it affects lag time, and pitching rate esters. For some reason i want to say it's going to hamper both yeast growth and/or pitching rate so I expect it to be a bit fruitier than intended. Also thinner due to the dilution of the wort.

RM-MN is a BIAB guy on these forums. He crushes super fine, almost to flour, and reports complete mashes at 20 minutes with about 80% efficiency and no FG problems. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/mash-conversion-experiment-475391/ Unforunately it seems he hasn't been able to brew for awhile, I think he said he's pretty busy till october but will continue the mash experiments with some more data once he returns.

As far as the mashing temp I would recommend doing either of the following.
1) Oven mashing. Turn it on the lowest setting possible, preferably around 150. Let it preheat for about 10 minutes while you bring the strike water to temp. Once you dough in, put the lid on the pot and turn the oven off. Place pot in oven. I wouldn't expect any heat loss greater than 3 degrees. Maybe 4.

2) Blanket mashing. Get a dining chair ready as your mashing platform. Dough in as usual, and put a sleeping bag on the chair with the open end up. Put pot in sleeping bag, zip shut, fold the excess over the top. Put another blanket over the top with the excess in the other direction, or wrapped around horizontally. I do this with my 30 qt, 2 sleeping bags and I only lose 2 degress in an hourish mash. I don't really time it, I just go for at least 45 minutes then end if whenever I'm done with my current task/tvshow/netflix.

I've found that you really do need to stir the CRAP out of it before covering, then DO NOT OPEN IT. Think stovetop rice. You open it and it's ruined. Trust me here, you don't need to stir or check the temp. Check it after your mash is done and report your temp differential.
 
Unfortunately my oven's lowest setting is 170, so I usually preheat, turn off, and then add heat every 25-20 minutes. I'm hoping to find a technique that involves as little hands on as possible. I've tried reprogramming my oven to have a lower warming setting, but it didn't make a difference. I know a lot of brewers use sleeping bags, blankets, and other types of insulation, but I'm weary to add any complication to my brew day. My kids would probably pull a sleeping bag off anyway.

I will keep experimenting with oven timing. I think I can find a timing that involves only one transaction.
 
Good stuff! I have a request for testing: same beer recipe but different "boils." Interested to see how the beers compare when a very violent (leaping it off the pot) boil is maintained vs a gentle wort turnover vs a simmer or something that doesn't even look like it's boiling.
 
Good stuff! I have a request for testing: same beer recipe but different "boils." Interested to see how the beers compare when a very violent (leaping it off the pot) boil is maintained vs a gentle wort turnover vs a simmer or something that doesn't even look like it's boiling.


I like that. I was already planning on a boil time series- 120, 90, 60, 30, and 15! On the 60 I will use two different heats, although I may need a few free passes as I guess on boil off rate. That's why the project is called BrewEveryday, not BrewGreatBeerEverytime.
 
Back
Top