Brewery Pump Set Up

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philosofool

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For my up coming birthday, I think I want a chugger pump with steel heads to help with lifting and to recirculate through a plate chiller.

Is there anything that I will really want to go with it besides a ball valve and barb fittings?

Also, before I do this, the pump can handle small debris, like bits of grain and trub, right?
 
Good choice:D

Pump and chiller 2.jpg

Recirc Setup.jpg

I use a hop spider to contain the hops so as to prevent too much crud in the chiller and potential blockages.

Hot break material might pose a problem. I have not experienced any blockages. I've been skimming it off of late for other questionable reasons.

Cold break is a non-issue. It goes straight through if recirculating as I do and into the FV. It will form in the chiller and go into the FV if not recirculating during cooling.

Either way. No problem

EDIT: I use camlock fittings for the wort hoses on the kettle, pump and chiller. You need a valve on the down stream outlet of the pump. You don't want to restrict the inlet flow. A valve on the kettle is nice to have as you probably don't want the pump directly attached to the kettle.

I have barbed fittings on the water side of my chiller as I don't use a garden hose. Just my kitchen's faucet
 
I suggest you use quick disconnects, like CAM & GROOVE fittings.
About the capacity of the pump to handle small debris, yes! This is not a problem at all to the pump, but remember to use a good false bottom or you will get a low flow.
 
+1 to the CamLock fittings. Get the special high flow "barbed" ones for the hoses (females and elbows), since the regular barbs on the camlocks are too restrictive.
 
I concur with all the high flow fittings and camlock love :mug:

I will add this small word of wisdom to a new chugger owner...if your pump cuts out randomly try putting a little back pressure on the 'out' side. I had a lot of issues with my two pumps cutting out randomly and failing to push liquid until I started using this technique. Probably basic stuff to a lot of people but I had no idea and now my pumps work much better/predictably.
 
Oh, I still clamp them. The continuous worm clamps Bobby sells don't chew up your silicone.

One of the benefits of the high flow cam lock is that hose clamps are not needed but by all means use them if you feel the need. 100% leak and worry free. They work perfectly with 1/2" silicone hose and seem to be designed without hose clamps in mind.

image from bargainfittings.comcamlockb_barb2.jpg
 
Always clamp hoses! These are the good clamps, other places have them too.

I once had the boiling content of a travel steam iron dropped on my feet. Literally, the bottom of the reservoir just fell out, no foul play. After some yodeling and ruining a few pairs of shoes in the aftermath I attained a high respect for hot liquids.
 
Thanks, everyone, for the feedback.

Two more questions:
(1) Is reciculating hot wort for 1 minute a good way to sanitize the clean pump?
(2) How do you avoid kinks in silicon hose?
 
Thanks, everyone, for the feedback.

Two more questions:
(1) Is reciculating hot wort for 1 minute a good way to sanitize the clean pump?
(2) How do you avoid kinks in silicon hose?

1. I recirculate through the pump and chiller for during the last 10 mins of the boil. Only need a small flow of wort through the pump and chiller so throttle it back with the valve downstream of the pump. (see the pic)

Why 10 mins. I've no basis for that number. 1 minute would probably be fine to kill all pathogenic microbes.

2. Buy the 1/8" wall thickness stuff and it will not kink unless you are really inattentive. Don't get the cheaper 1/16" wall thickness. Useless stuff. Got some in error and sent it back right away. Kinks if you fart in its general vicinity.
 
I do the same, last 10 minutes recirculate boiling wort through hoses, pump, and plate chiller. All were cleaned and sanitized after last use, just to kill the last leftover bugs, mainly in the plate chiller.

I also stick the plate chiller in the oven every few brews. Goes in with the pizza or bread. 250-400F.
 
I had good results with a bleeder valve, but have since not been using one and have done fine without it. I just open the valve on the pump until I see liquid come through the output hose, shut the valve off, hookup output hose to whereever it needs to go, flip the power switch, and throttle the valve. Easy peasy
 

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