Brew Stand Liquid Plumbing and Pump Input Valves

[dcbc]

My current setup is a Brutus 20 type direct fired RIMS design with one pump (I batch sparge). Currently, I swap hoses around to do my transfers. I would like to add some hoses and valves to make my life slightly easier.

To do this, I would need 3 inputs to the pump (one from each vessel) and three outputs (one to return connection on the mash tun, one to the return connection on the BK, and one to the input on the chiller.

My question is, since I have valves on the output of each of my vessels, do I need valves on the input side of the pump or would it suffice to close the valves on the vessels I'm not drawing from and open the valve on the vessel I want to draw from. That way, I could just run a stainless cross piece off the pump input and connect to it.

Similarly, while I would need an L valve to keep the CFC out of the chain when not in use, would I need separate output valves for the BK and MLT if I already have valves I can close off on the return lines to those vessels.

For ease of reference, here's a picture of my setup.

 

[BrewKaiser]

@dcbc, my answer to your question is "it depends". In my set up I have two pumps and fabricated "supply" (feeding pump "in") and "return" (pump "out") manifolds. Without valves at the supply and return manifold ports there is some liquid that does get pushed up the unintended tubing, even if the valve at the source or destination is closed.

This only concerns me on the post boil loop where I do not want un-boiled wort being mixed with boiled wort during the whirlpool and chilling cycle. In this instance I have added an extra valve where the MLT connects to my #2 Pump supply manifold.

I also configured my system such that all supply-side valves, tubing, and fittings are 3/4" with all return-side being 1/2". This helps over constrain the output-side of the pumps reducing cavitation.

One caveat here is that my results are from water tests only at this point as I plan to do my maiden brew this coming weekend.

Hope this helps.

 

[dcbc]

@BrewKaiser,

Thanks. That helps. I may just put valves on everything. Was considering a pair of 3-way (L) valves, but it may be more reasonable to just buy crosses and add separate valves (3 in/3 out). It will also be easier to eyeball with separate valves.

 

[BrewKaiser]

@BrewKaiser,

Thanks. That helps. I may just put valves on everything. Was considering a pair of 3-way (L) valves, but it may be more reasonable to just buy crosses and add separate valves (3 in/3 out). It will also be easier to eyeball with separate valves.

3-way valves are nice in that it reduces total number of valves and ensuing clutter. Downside is you cannot throttle a 3-way and it's easy to get tripped up on flow direction.

I recommend doing a water only run before adding valves everywhere. Determine where and when you really need to shut off a line. If sanitary issues keep you up at night, then you'll want to add sanitary valves where it matters most. The more valves the more time to your cleaning regimen.

 

[dcbc]

3-way valves are nice in that it reduces total number of valves and ensuing clutter. Downside is you cannot throttle a 3-way and it's easy to get tripped up on flow direction.

I recommend doing a water only run before adding valves everywhere. Determine where and when you really need to shut off a line. If sanitary issues keep you up at night, then you'll want to add sanitary valves where it matters most. The more valves the more time to your cleaning regimen.

I didn't think about not being able to throttle a three way valve. I'm just going to run three valves on the "in" manifold and three on the "out" manifold. That will make transfers nice and methodical and much easier than messing with hoses. Parts are on the way.

 

[dcbc]

Well, I finally got it done (mostly). I forgot to add a T to the BK return port. Parts are on order. Had to raise the pump up to clear the frame.

But, for today, I'm swapping hoses for the chiller return. Between this and adding QDs to my garden hose and related connections, I'm on target for knocking nearly an hour off my brew day. I can't believe I spent so much time messing with hoses and walking back and forth to the hose bib to turn the water on and off.

 

[dcbc]

And that's confirmed. 6 hours where it usually would have taken me 7 (from pulling things out to completely cleaned up and put away. And I did a 1.5 hour mash on this Pilsner. So the valves and water hose QDs saved me somewhere between 1 and 1.5 hours.

Never would have expected it.