Brew stand concept

[Boy]

I learned how to start drafting last night and wanted to share the results. This is the stand I am hoping to build soon. It's 2x2 square tubing and 60"x26"x22". It's not exact but I wanted a good starting point to make sure the welder and I are on the same page when I get there.

It's built for a 1BBL, 2 Vessel, system. The 24" boil section will use 1.5" tubing for the diamond and then .5" angle iron(fins) to raise the pot and allow better exhaust. The 24" section will also be shielded around the legs. Stole this idea from Hess's stand pics. The plate steel section is for the mash tun. Planning on thermal mass and insulation to hold temps for the hour. HLT eliminated through a tankless water heater. The Burner is going to be the http://tejassmokers.com/castironburners.htm Monster and the cone on the end of the stand is the Venturi for ease of adjustment. The plate holding the Venturi and the burner mount(not shown yet) will support the weight. There is still enough room to add a small controller on the end when I get that far.

The primary idea is taken from the Psychobrew 1bbl system but with the mash burner eliminated.

It's a concept in progress but I still wanted to share it.

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[Bobby_M]

Holy smokes... sketchup tip #1, use a different layer for all construction lines so you can hide them for export.

Did you find an on-demand water heater that can be modified for sparge temps?

 

[robbiex0r]

I don't see a reason to make your gas pipe longer than it needs to be.

I'd also be concerned about that Monster burner focused on such a relatively small portion of your boil kettle. I'm afraid it will either be inefficient, or risk scorching.

Others may have differing opinions.

 

[Bobby_M]

What's the alternative though? That's one of the largest diameter burners available.

 

[Boy]

after studying I think a +/- R94 Rinnai or similar will fit the bill. From what I have read you need to find a commercial model as they can go higher in temps and are more easily modified. My other plan is to build a heat stick for sparge temps. Low cost and easy to implement.

Thanks for the tip on Sketchup. I tried to use CS4 Adobe first where I know what I'm doing but this is all greek to me currently. Didn't want to delete my guides as they were helping me as anchor points for the other design pieces I was putting in or modifying.

As to the Burner. Tejas smoker says that the burner piping should have no elbows or bends on the supply. I think this would be a nice routing that is easy to access and easy to hook up from the venturi. Plus it will support itself. So basically plumb in from the outside wherever and you can just hook it up to the side instead of having to worry about any routing or messiness in design. Lastly you have to consider that a 1BBL stand is naturally going to be quite tall just because of the pots. Shortening the stand for ease of brewing, but having everything readily accessible I view as a plus.

As far as scorching my plan is to splurge on a Stout kettle with the tangental inlet for whirlpooling. If I keep a recirc going occasional or throughout I believe I shouldn't have any worries.(?)

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Tejas Smoker is blowing smoke

 

[robbiex0r]

What's the alternative though? That's one of the largest diameter burners available.

At 6" pumping out 225k BTUs, it seems like concentrated overkill to me. I envision an extremely hot, strong flame blasting off the surface, with a diminishing return on heat absorption. I'm no thermo-engineer, however.

 

[Boy]

Really don't see scorching as an issue but if it comes up I will have a whirlpool inlet. I can use this to move the wort around through the boil while sanitizing the pump.

I thought I mentioned where the burner idea came from but I guess not. The burner is what Hess Brewing uses for the 1.6BBL stand. If you check out their blog you can see the stand with the burner mounted in it. You can also see how they mounted fins for the pot to sit on to for better exhaust.

Here's a link:http://hessbrewing.blogspot.com/2010/04/installation-of-brewery.html

My concept is fairly similar to their right side stand in this pic. Hess uses two stands together for their full operation.

 

[Bobby_M]

At 6" pumping out 225k BTUs, it seems like concentrated overkill to me. I envision an extremely hot, strong flame blasting off the surface, with a diminishing return on heat absorption. I'm no thermo-engineer, however.

I built a manifold to run triple BG-10 burners for a single 55 gallon barrel as seen in this thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/triple-bg-10-burners-50-gallon-kettle-204540/

I'm pretty sure it's pushing out more actual BTU than a single BG-14 and I wouldn't call it overkill. It takes a lot of energy to heat 40 gallons.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

For a 1 BB system a Banjo burner is on the small side. We spec a 23 tip for that size system. Bobby is 100% dead on... it takes a LOT of BTUs to heat 40 gallons of water.

 

[Bobby_M]

Yeah, and a balls-out 23 tip is enough to melt a BG14 casting. Well not really, but you know... it's F'ing hot.

 

[2BeerSpeer]

Yeah, and a balls-out 23 tip is enough to melt a BG14 casting. Well not really, but you know... it's F'ing hot.

Hot!

 

[Boy]

Added the vessels, pump, and heat shields around the burner. New plan is to replicate the plate on the end that holds the pipe and the venturi and make it the 4th, inner, heat shield. Not going to use a barrel but don't want to design a Stout tank. Also do not really need to go as far as designing all the fittings for this mock up. Good news is I have a good welder friend who has agreed to help me out and build the stand. Hopefully here in a few months I can start posting actual pics.

 

[Boy]

Thinking that instead of mounting the plate steel the Brute sits on flush to the stand I should add a 1/4"(ish) between it and the frame. Possibly by adding nuts between the frame and the plate to screw in to and raise it up. This might help with venting and heat dispersal.