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Brew Hazy IPA or Hazy IPA first dor competition?

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Hi All

I need to submit beers for a competition on September 15.

Now, I’m planning to brew a Hazy IPA and a West Coast IPA. I cannot brew the beer at the same time due to the schedule and equipment limination. So, planed to brew onne batch will be brewed on July 27, and the other on August 17.

Which style should I brew first?

Thanks
 
I would do the hazy first.

Contrary to the popular "drink fresh" mantra if you're going all out on hopping (like 15g/L plus dry hopping) then your beer will greatly benefit from decent conditioning time (minimum 3 weeks) and if you're kegging, have a zero oxygen process, and are cold storing them it's not going to degrade once it's out of the fermenter really.
 
Boy that is a tough one. I agree with @HM-2 .. however that greatly depends on your cold side process. If you can be sure of all oxygen free dry hopping and transfer, then yeah I'd do the hazy first. If not, you'd want the hazy to be as fresh as possible. Cheers and Goodluck.
 
I would do the hazy first.

Contrary to the popular "drink fresh" mantra if you're going all out on hopping (like 15g/L plus dry hopping) then your beer will greatly benefit from decent conditioning time (minimum 3 weeks) and if you're kegging, have a zero oxygen process, and are cold storing them it's not going to degrade once it's out of the fermenter really.
Thanks for the comments
My Dry hop is close 14.92g/L which is close 15g/L as you speaking.
I use close transfer, and used hop bong to do the dry hop which try my the best to minimum the oxygen expose.
Actually, although I did do this. I still fine that my beer is a little bit oxidize around a month.

Still not idea what's happen for it?
When the fermentation completed, transfer to the 19L keg to force carbonation.
Stay around 1 weeks. I will do the close transfer from 19L keg to mini keg 2L and 3.6 liter in order to easy to share with someone and leave the space free.
I am thinking about if it is the reason as above to cause some oxidize. But, it is not make sense actually, because I am still doing close transfer for it.
Maybe I leave around 2 finger width space on 2L and 3.6L keg when transfer from 19L keg?
 
Boy that is a tough one. I agree with @HM-2 .. however that greatly depends on your cold side process. If you can be sure of all oxygen free dry hopping and transfer, then yeah I'd do the hazy first. If not, you'd want the hazy to be as fresh as possible. Cheers and Goodluck.
Thanks for the comments
I use close transfer, and used hop bong to do the dry hop which try my the best to minimum the oxygen expose.
Actually, although I did do this. I still fine that my beer is a little bit oxidize around a month.
Still not idea what's happen for it?

When the fermentation completed, transfer to the 19L keg to force carbonation.
Stay around 1 weeks. I will do the close transfer from 19L keg to mini keg 2L and 3.6 liter in order to easy to share with someone and leave the space free.
I am thinking about if it is the reason as above to cause some oxidize. But, it is not make sense actually, because I am still doing close transfer for it.
Maybe I leave around 2 finger width space on 2L and 3.6L keg when transfer from 19L keg?
 
What is your closed transfer process? Are you filling your keg with starsan and pushing that out with co2? Then when you fill the keg are you piggy backing to a second keg with a spunding valve or putting the air out (gas in) from the keg your filling into a bucket of water?

One other thing you can do is add some ascorbic acid with your dry hops. I've found this antioxidant to help the longevity of my hazies.
 
What is your closed transfer process? Are you filling your keg with starsan and pushing that out with co2? Then when you fill the keg are you piggy backing to a second keg with a spunding valve or putting the air out (gas in) from the keg your filling into a bucket of water?

One other thing you can do is add some ascorbic acid with your dry hops. I've found this antioxidant to help the longevity of my hazies.
Yes, I fill the keg with Starsan and pushing that out with CO2 when I do the close transfer to big Keg.
When I transfer the big keg to mini Keg, I did use spunding valve and put the tube into starsan.

I use 4 gram ascorbic acid during the mash, but not used it in dry hop.
 
Yes, I fill the keg with Starsan and pushing that out with CO2 when I do the close transfer to big Keg.
When I transfer the big keg to mini Keg, I did use spunding valve and put the tube into starsan.

I use 4 gram ascorbic acid during the mash, but not used it in dry hop.
Well it sounds like you have a solid process.
 

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