renthispace
Well-Known Member
Got my dimple in the other night for my thermowell that I will be silver soldering into the lid. Now I just need to do some soldering 
Brew Bucket by SS Brewing Technologies
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Got my dimple in the other night for my thermowell that I will be silver soldering into the lid. Now I just need to do some soldering
Any particular reason why you've chosen to solder yours?
I chose to use a holed stopper, so I can remove the stopper+thermowell easily for cleaning, and it gives me a hole to run a liquid line through, if I want to rack beer into the bucket with the lid secured shut.
renthispace
Well-Known Member
I went for the lid so that I would have fewer issues cleaning the thermowell between batches. I believe that a smooth shaft that enters the wort from the lid will be easier to clean then one that enters from the side of the pot. The lid already had its nook and crannies with the gasket so sterilizing the thermowell won’t be much addition. Having a thermowell on the side of the pot makes it more difficult to clean and sterilize since there are more surfaces that aren’t easily exposed.
And silver solder should make the connection smooth and easy to clean. No need to take grommets off or worry about threads for weldless thermowells. The only issue with my setup is leverage. I will have a small surface area of solder to hold a 12” long thermowell. This is why I knew I had to dimple the hole to create more area for the solder to bite (and to sand the surface of the solder location). Of course there are no guarantees what will happen if I accidentally drop it. I’ll definitely make sure I handle it with care.
So far I’ve only done this with one of my buckets so I can test it out and see how I like it before I do it to bucket #2.
And silver solder should make the connection smooth and easy to clean. No need to take grommets off or worry about threads for weldless thermowells. The only issue with my setup is leverage. I will have a small surface area of solder to hold a 12” long thermowell. This is why I knew I had to dimple the hole to create more area for the solder to bite (and to sand the surface of the solder location). Of course there are no guarantees what will happen if I accidentally drop it. I’ll definitely make sure I handle it with care.
So far I’ve only done this with one of my buckets so I can test it out and see how I like it before I do it to bucket #2.
Moby
I need more gadgets....
I just got notification from MoreBeer that my bucket is on the way
. 
LovesIPA
Well-Known Member
Same here! Mine is supposed to be delivered today but I'm a lot closer to their CA facility than you are.
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
Woohoo! Also got my notice of shipment! Been holding off on a dogfish batch and have been getting dangerously low in homebrew inventory - scary thing right.
Anymore updates from early adopters that can share tips?? Particularly anyone that added a way to take temp readings? Thermowells or just a probe taped to the side?
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Anymore updates from early adopters that can share tips?? Particularly anyone that added a way to take temp readings? Thermowells or just a probe taped to the side?
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LovesIPA
Well-Known Member
I plan on using a stick-on thermometer.
I know it's not perfect but I've always dropped the probe of my STC-1000 directly into the fermenter through the airlock hole. Great way to inoculate with a contamination but I hope that I sanitized it enough.
NervousDad
BFM
I tested the bucket by adding 60 degree water and measuring the water temp and the outside temp with my STC-1000 with a piece of foam covering the probe. The temperatures were identical. It's already kind of a thermowell since it's stainless steel.
old-pasture-brew
Well-Known Member
I guess I would just point out that fermenting beer is a heat producing process. And when I control the temps with cold air around the outside of the vessel what I've always wondered was the difference between the center and the outer walls.
I think the easy answer is test it both ways at once with a batch and just use the dunk the probe method in the middle.
Either way I'm brewing this weekend!!!
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I think the easy answer is test it both ways at once with a batch and just use the dunk the probe method in the middle.
Either way I'm brewing this weekend!!!
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Got my final three in from Keg Outlet today. My little bucket family is complete.
Weezy
Well-Known Member
I don't think you'll find its much different at the side vs. center. Its a very small volume and a relatively skinny container. I'd guess a degree or less difference. When doing a lacto souring in my kettle, I noticed essentially zero difference from a submerged scientific thermometer, infrared, and the PID probe taped to the outside of the pot.... and I was heating the pot to 105*F with thermal wire wrapped around the outside of the pot.
This is what I've used so far and have no problems. I have mine in a Cool Brewing jacket and have been able to keep a steady 56 degrees in it for 2 weeks despite the changes of temperature in the house.
Yesterday I brewed my first batch to be fermented in my new bucket. It's fermenting away this morning, but it's tough for me to not see what is going on in the vessel as I've always used carboys and Better Bottles. I have to resist the urge to open it. It was much easier to pitch the yeast.
NervousDad
BFM
^ definitely tough for me todo as well. I just kegged my first beer out of mine and it was so simple, I love these buckets. Compared to my last process of pushing the beer out with Co2 this was simple. I purged with co2 and drain into the keg, took less that 5 minutes.
SpeedYellow
Well-Known Member
For anyone looking to install a thermowell, here's what I did. Can't wait to use it on my lagers, since fiddling with the thermostat won't be needed any more. Set it and forget it. I'm not 100% sure yet it'll be airtight, but it's really snug so I'm not worried. When locating the hole to drill, remember the vessel tapers in, so don't go too far outward. I went 10.4 mm radially outward, which should put the probe about 75% of the way radially outward 12" down.
1) Bunn 2536 silicone grommet, 0.375 ID, $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ0A2BE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
2) Step drill bits, to drill 9/16" hole
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OEPYWK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
3) Thermowell, 12", $12
https://www.brewershardware.com/12-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell-TWS12.html
I'm not 100% sure yet it'll be airtight, but it's really snug so I'm not worried. When locating the hole to drill, remember the vessel tapers in, so don't go too far outward. I went 10.4 mm radially outward, which should put the probe about 75% of the way radially outward 12" down.1) Bunn 2536 silicone grommet, 0.375 ID, $7
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HQ0A2BE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
2) Step drill bits, to drill 9/16" hole
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001OEPYWK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
3) Thermowell, 12", $12
https://www.brewershardware.com/12-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell-TWS12.html
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This is what I used for a fermentation bucket before purchasing conical. It is a 10 gal BK serving dual purpose for brews needing top cropping or dry hopping.
Now it's back to just being a 10 gal BK.
Now it's back to just being a 10 gal BK.
First post just joined
Anyways I really am interested in buying a few of these SS Buckets. I was just going to get a couple of the conicals until I came across these buckets and stop with the big mouth bubbler and glass carboys.
Sorry if this has already been covered...
Looks to me the biggest difference between a conical and these buckets are the depth of which yeast sits. Other than that really whats the purpose of spending more on a 7 gallon conical? Im just trying to convince myself to this route instead the 2 conicals, especially if they work on the same concept and the outcome will be the same.
So whats the difference? can you pressurize both?
thank!
Anyways I really am interested in buying a few of these SS Buckets. I was just going to get a couple of the conicals until I came across these buckets and stop with the big mouth bubbler and glass carboys.
Sorry if this has already been covered...
Looks to me the biggest difference between a conical and these buckets are the depth of which yeast sits. Other than that really whats the purpose of spending more on a 7 gallon conical? Im just trying to convince myself to this route instead the 2 conicals, especially if they work on the same concept and the outcome will be the same.
So whats the difference? can you pressurize both?
thank!
I've pressurized mine to 3 psi before it leaked, which is all the Ferminator is rated at and one psi less than the Stout 7 gallon conicals are rated at.
Still easily enough to push through the hop rocket, and a slow and steady rate through a filter. (I don't filter, just gel)
I have five of these buckets now for what I would have paid for two Ferminators, and can get four in my 15 cu freezer.
It's a no brainer for me, no looking back.
Thanks 542! and you answered my other question about pressurizing the tank, I wonder if you can get a higher rating by getting additional seals to prevent the leak. Didnt know Stouts were only rated at 4, only 1 psi differenct...pfft!
It all seems to good to be true since i stumbled upon this "Bucket from God" a fermenter for only 225 with some additional add ons one can have a complete almost professional style unit for under 300.
Do you pressurize through the current hole on the lid? May I ask whats your setup on that?
Thanks again!
I've been following this thread now for a while but I'm still scratching my head trying to figure out why this is better than your typical glass carboy. Is it the size? The stainless steel? I'm interested but I'm trying to figure out what constitutes the 200 dollar price difference other than looking cool with something that looks professional? Sorry I don't mean to be rude but it is a major cost difference?
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^ss vs glass? This isn't even a debate.
A racking port is also far superior to siphoning.
MUCH easier to dry hop in.
The list goes on....
A racking port is also far superior to siphoning.
MUCH easier to dry hop in.
The list goes on....
I could probably put some weight on the lid for a little more pressure, but really haven't needed to. I doubt another seal would do anything. The lid seal it comes with is adequate.
I just run a gas line into the bung and hold it there!
Certainly not rude! For me, there are a few advantages over carboys. Cleaning is simple, pitching and dry hopping is simple, closed transfer is downright awesome, no gunk on transfer, added headspace for your typical 5 gal batch. It's also shiny.
SpeedYellow
Well-Known Member
The primary advantage for me is safety. I've never broken a carboy, but it still scares the hell out of me since I lift my carboy a lot (brew upstairs, ferment downstairs, in a top-opening freezer). Plastic buckets are out of the question in my mind, so that leaves this.
And the above points are nice too.
And the above points are nice too.
Like some others Im really just scratching my head what to do here. Just as I was going to get a Conical Fermenter this popped up.
As Im thinking of disadvantages of a Conical vs the bucket i only come up with size and storage as my issue. I can stack 4 of these in my fermentor (closet) vs 2 Conicals wheeled into it. The Bucket wins there!
Cleaning, sampling, dry hoppping, kegging all seem to be the same. Unless Im missing something where the bucket is not deep enough and you end up with gunk in your beer? So one would assume you end up with more beer using the bucket since its not so deep.
Anyone try putting a fine mesh screen on their racking arm on the inside? Or just use a paint filter to make a cleaner beer on the outside?
thanks guys!
As Im thinking of disadvantages of a Conical vs the bucket i only come up with size and storage as my issue. I can stack 4 of these in my fermentor (closet) vs 2 Conicals wheeled into it. The Bucket wins there!
Cleaning, sampling, dry hoppping, kegging all seem to be the same. Unless Im missing something where the bucket is not deep enough and you end up with gunk in your beer? So one would assume you end up with more beer using the bucket since its not so deep.
Anyone try putting a fine mesh screen on their racking arm on the inside? Or just use a paint filter to make a cleaner beer on the outside?
thanks guys!
NervousDad
BFM
SS Bucket and put the saved money towards proper fermentation temperature control would be your best best. Conical fermentor provide no benefit unless you want to harvest yeast.
No need to add paint stainer, cold crash and gelatin will give you crystal clear beer. There is about a gallon of space at the bottom so there is no chance of getting trub in your keg.
No need to add paint stainer, cold crash and gelatin will give you crystal clear beer. There is about a gallon of space at the bottom so there is no chance of getting trub in your keg.
I second that. I've already had 10 ounces of pellet hops sitting on top of a built yeast cake on top of all the break from the boil kettle, and still wasn't to the racking arm. Cold crash in the fermenter and everything gets real compact at the bottom.
SpeedYellow
Well-Known Member
You mean like a Brew Belt or other heat pad? Of course it works; why wouldn't it?
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I bungie cord this heating pad to the side of the fermenter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASOPHFQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Works great in conjunction with my ranco controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ASOPHFQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Works great in conjunction with my ranco controller
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If I could get a 7 gallon Better Bottle, I'd go with that. But I can't so I like this.
"You mean like a Brew Belt or other heat pad? Of course it works; why wouldn't it?"
at first was thinking the conductive metal just outside being heat treated but not all the way to the center of the liquid....true that wth was i thinking oops!
at first was thinking the conductive metal just outside being heat treated but not all the way to the center of the liquid....true that wth was i thinking oops!
I'm fermenting my first batch in my Brew Bucket and it was a bit strange. It was happily bubbling away through the blowoff tube yesterday morning. Then later in the morning, I looked at and it wasn't bubbling any more. I pull the blowoff tube and it wasn't clogged. I opened the lid and the krausen was up to the top. I replaced the lid and the tube and left it. This morning it's bubbling through the tube again, the liquid that the blowoff tube goes into is cloudy and it apparently released some of the krausen around the lid making some mess in my fermentation chamber. I'm not understanding why it didn't all go through the blowoff tube.
FYI, the bottom cone holds exactly 64oz (1/2 gal).
Are you and the other guy saying it holds a gallon up to the racking arm? That I might understand, but the cone itself is only half a gallon.
Hopefully it was you just didnt have the seal on correctly all the way, i just ordered a couple and maybe someone else can chime in on what went wrong.
swackattack
Well-Known Member
is supply loosening up on these?
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It appears that they're starting to get them out faster, but it's hard to tell.
Regardless, after enjoying my first brew on the bucket, I already want another. but instead, I'd rather have the Chronical 7 gal Conical! Just took dimensions and it barely fits my 7 cu fermentation freezer (with a collar of course).
TVHABrewguy
Well-Known Member
Because I live apparently where they started from, i ran into one of the SS guys who showed me this neoprene jacket for their Brew Bucket that is going to be part of their new FTSsystem (Fermentation Temp Stabilization System) that they are saying will be integrated with their Bucket/Chronicals, and not just putting a fermenter into a big cooler or fridge or into a giant zippered nylon bag with icecubes or heat packs either!) Digital temp control system custom for their fermenters with both heating and cooling for around $200 bucks (plus / minus) retail launching this Summer.
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macewank
Member
whoa. that sounds EXTREMELY cool (no pun intended) .. wonder how it will work?
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