Brew Boss Systems

[andrewmaixner]

If your pre-boil gravity was spot-on, that should eliminate a mash/sparge/squeeze issue (presuming all water volumes were correct).

What batch size?
How much wort was collected, and how much boiled off?
How much post-boil sugar additions?
Do you know exactly how much sugar you failed to dissolve?
Are you comfortable just adding sugar or extract to your fermenter to hit your goal, this time?



( I did my first 5-gal batch high-gravity wort yesterday, a 5Gal 1.088 yesterday, and of course almost panicked when my post-mash gravity was only 1.055. Then I remembered I still had boiloff pending, and 2 lbs of dark syrup/dextrose to add in. Ended up being just great, as the grains calculated at 75% mash efficiency and about 5.7Gal of 1.091 into fermenter.
I also used a few PSI of CO2 to push all wort out of the system and counterflow chiller, for almost zero loss )

 

[HLSheppard]

What batch size? 6 gal into fermenter.
How much wort was collected, and how much boiled off? 8 gal. wort. 1.5(ish) gal. boiled off.
How much post-boil sugar additions? 2.5 lbs.
Do you know exactly how much sugar you failed to dissolve? Not exactly - 1/4 lb MAYBE
Are you comfortable just adding sugar or extract to your fermenter to hit your goal, this time? I have never done that. I suppose I could (good idea). I'm more wondering what happened this go 'round, though.

What's most confusing is that I've not changed anything with regard to HOW I do things. Try to keep my processes as similar and dialed-in as possible.

 

[andrewmaixner]

What batch size? 6 gal into fermenter.
How much wort was collected, and how much boiled off? 8 gal. wort. 1.5(ish) gal. boiled off.
How much post-boil sugar additions? 2.5 lbs.
Do you know exactly how much sugar you failed to dissolve? Not exactly - 1/4 lb MAYBE
Are you comfortable just adding sugar or extract to your fermenter to hit your goal, this time? I have never done that. I suppose I could (good idea). I'm more wondering what happened this go 'round, though.

What's most confusing is that I've not changed anything with regard to HOW I do things. Try to keep my processes as similar and dialed-in as possible.

I'd say that the largest unknown is the sugar loss, as I'm guessing it 100% a guesstimate? Let's just ignore it and do the math:

Here's your numbers:
8gal @ 1.050, -1.5gal boiloff, = 6.5gal @ 1.062 before sugar addition.

fully dissolving 2.5lb dextrose (46PPG) would bump the gravity by 0.018, bringing it to 6.5gal @ 1.080

To get to your goal of 1.098, you would have to boil off another 1.2 gallons, bringing the end volume to 5.3gal

So if you had .5gal loss and 6gal into fermenter, the numbers all add up correctly....

Was the estimate of OG 1.098 calculated based on an ending volume of 5.3gal?

 

[HLSheppard]

I'd say that the largest unknown is the sugar loss, as I'm guessing it 100% a guesstimate? Let's just ignore it and do the math:

Here's your numbers:
8gal @ 1.050, -1.5gal boiloff, = 6.5gal @ 1.062 before sugar addition.

fully dissolving 2.5lb dextrose (46PPG) would bump the gravity by 0.018, bringing it to 6.5gal @ 1.080

To get to your goal of 1.098, you would have to boil off another 1.2 gallons, bringing the end volume to 5.3gal

So if you had .5gal loss and 6gal into fermenter, the numbers all add up correctly....

Was the estimate of OG 1.098 calculated based on an ending volume of 5.3gal?

That all makes sense (yes - the sugar loss was a total guess). However - why on this batch? I'm wondering if some setting in the background of Beersmith changed with the recent update. Here are the numbers right from Beersmith:

Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 6.00 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
End of Boil Vol: 7.00 gal
Final Bottling Vol: 5.00 gal
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage


Date: 16 Oct 2016

It's almost like it thought I was doing a 90 min. boil (but you can see it was set for 60 min.). Weird!

 

[andrewmaixner]

That all makes sense (yes - the sugar loss was a total guess). However - why on this batch? I'm wondering if some setting in the background of Beersmith changed with the recent update. Here are the numbers right from Beersmith:

Type: All Grain
Batch Size: 6.00 gal
Boil Size: 8.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
End of Boil Vol: 7.00 gal
Final Bottling Vol: 5.00 gal
Fermentation: Ale, Single Stage


Date: 16 Oct 2016

It's almost like it thought I was doing a 90 min. boil (but you can see it was set for 60 min.). Weird!

Guess it's time to look at the equipment profile in this batch. Did you use the exact same profile as previous batches? Look at all of the various the losses and volumes etc. I've often forgotten to save my tweaks over the previous stored profile, so it only goes into one recipe. (Then I have to go back and edit again in the official saved equipment profile)

 

[MerlinWerks]

Calling all Brew Boss owners! I brewed an American Barleywine yesterday and didn't come close to hitting my numbers! Looking for some suggestions as to what happened...

Here are specifics:

- I use a 15 gal. COFI system with BeerSmith 2 software.
- I almost always brew big beers (1.080+) and with efficiency set at 62% in BeerSmith - hit my numbers almost perfectly.
- I did a 90 minute mash with hot water "pour over" sparge
- 60 minute boil this time (have done both 60 and 90 minute boils)
- Using iodine - my conversion looked fine
- Pre-boil gravity was estimated at 1.050 and I hit that exactly (via refractometer)
- OG was supposed to be 1.098 but ended up at 1.080

Now - there was dextrose added after boil and some was at the bottom of the pot, undissolved. Not that much, however. Maybe a 1/4 pound if I had to guess (being VERY generous). With an immersion chiller and an Arborfab hop basket - this does happen sometimes with sugar additions. I just don't have room to stir as much as I'd like.

Any thoughts on why I was so far off? Do I need to provide more info?

Just racking my brain as to why this anomaly happened.

THANKS

The principles outlined HERE have helped me to hit my numbers on bigger beers, good food for thought...

For adding dextrose to the boil I started pulling some hot wort from the boil (about 10 - 20 minutes before flameout) to dissolve the sugar thoroughly in a separate pitcher, then simply dump it back in. Since I'll be recirculating anyway no real need for manual stirring and no scorching either...

 

[HLSheppard]

The principles outlined HERE have helped me to hit my numbers on bigger beers, good food for thought...

For adding dextrose to the boil I started pulling some hot wort from the boil (about 10 - 20 minutes before flameout) to dissolve the sugar thoroughly in a separate pitcher, then simply dump it back in. Since I'll be recirculating anyway no real need for manual stirring and no scorching either...

BRILLIANT! Thanks!!

Turns out - some of the setting in BeerSmith were off. Not sure if that was an update or what. Funny thing is, I lost one of my cloud recipes as well.

Also - now that I have the Brew Boss dip tube in my kettle - there is WAY less left over in the kettle after the boil. I think this all contributed.

However - love the simple solution!!

 

[Wright]

If your pre-boil gravity was spot-on, that should eliminate a mash/sparge/squeeze issue (presuming all water volumes were correct).

What batch size?
How much wort was collected, and how much boiled off?
How much post-boil sugar additions?
Do you know exactly how much sugar you failed to dissolve?
Are you comfortable just adding sugar or extract to your fermenter to hit your goal, this time?



( I did my first 5-gal batch high-gravity wort yesterday, a 5Gal 1.088 yesterday, and of course almost panicked when my post-mash gravity was only 1.055. Then I remembered I still had boiloff pending, and 2 lbs of dark syrup/dextrose to add in. Ended up being just great, as the grains calculated at 75% mash efficiency and about 5.7Gal of 1.091 into fermenter.
I also used a few PSI of CO2 to push all wort out of the system and counterflow chiller, for almost zero loss )

Care to share how you are doing this? I'd like to be able to at least push the wort completely out of the counter flow chiller. Is it just a quick disconnect fitting?

Also, I did buy the new pick up tube but found that a lot of trub build up around it and shut down my pump. Maybe I should have turned it a bit to the side but I still had a lot of issues getting my pump to start pumping.

 

[HLSheppard]

Care to share how you are doing this? I'd like to be able to at least push the wort completely out of the counter flow chiller. Is it just a quick disconnect fitting?

Also, I did buy the new pick up tube but found that a lot of trub build up around it and shut down my pump. Maybe I should have turned it a bit to the side but I still had a lot of issues getting my pump to start pumping.

Wow - I didn't have that happen at all. I was using a hop basket though so maybe that helped. I had mine straight down. Have to keep an eye on that, esp. for hop-heavy batches.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Care to share how you are doing this? I'd like to be able to at least push the wort completely out of the counter flow chiller. Is it just a quick disconnect fitting?

Also, I did buy the new pick up tube but found that a lot of trub build up around it and shut down my pump. Maybe I should have turned it a bit to the side but I still had a lot of issues getting my pump to start pumping.

Nothing fancy, I just stuck a CO2 gas hose (3PSI on regulator) into the inside hole of a tri-clamp (the one which had been connected to my kettle pickup), and held on tight. All the wort blew out in a matter of seconds.

C02 line --> pickup tube line --> pump --> chiller --> recirculation hose --> into fermenter

I have seen various fittings designed for it (FFL on TC/QD/CL fittings) but they are targeted at keeping positive pressure on a fermentor when cold crashing to avoid oxygen exposure. Not needed at all for a quick line clearing.

 

[Wright]

Wow - I didn't have that happen at all. I was using a hop basket though so maybe that helped. I had mine straight down. Have to keep an eye on that, esp. for hop-heavy batches.

I have a hops basket on order so maybe that is the problem. It will be here when I brew my next batch.

Nothing fancy, I just stuck a CO2 gas hose (3PSI on regulator) into the inside hole of a tri-clamp (the one which had been connected to my kettle pickup), and held on tight. All the wort blew out in a matter of seconds.

C02 line --> pickup tube line --> pump --> chiller --> recirculation hose --> into fermenter

I have seen various fittings designed for it (FFL on TC/QD/CL fittings) but they are targeted at keeping positive pressure on a fermentor when cold crashing to avoid oxygen exposure. Not needed at all for a quick line clearing.

I understand that. Guess I was curious how you were pressurizing the kettle but now that I have reread it I don't think you are.

 

[andrewmaixner]

I understand that. Guess I was curious how you were pressurizing the kettle but now that I have reread it I don't think you are.

You definitely could lightly pressurize a kettle. Just need a silicone gasket between kettle and lid, some clamps, and an input. That's done on some of the brew-in-a-conical systems, for example, for fermenting under pressure, racking via pressure, kettle souring, etc.

 

[Wright]

You definitely could lightly pressurize a kettle. Just need a silicone gasket between kettle and lid, some clamps, and an input. That's done on some of the brew-in-a-conical systems, for example, for fermenting under pressure, racking via pressure, kettle souring, etc.

Thanks for the info. I'll definitely start using CO2 to blow my chiller out.

 

[FreddyMar3]

Anyone else have issues with the element housing rusting and cracking? View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477527502.371362.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1477527526.072755.jpg

 

[Beavdowg]

My element housing doesn't get much water on it- On purpose.

 

[HLSheppard]

No - but my element is the one with the integrated plug / TC fitting. Like Beavdowg said - I do my best to keep water away from it!

 

[JonHopstein]

My element housing also cracked, but there was no rust. I noticed at the same time that my system tripped the GFI whenever I turned on power to the controller. Darin took care of it and the replacement element has performed flawless since then.

 

[BrunDog]

Those cracks look unrelated to the rust. Look how straight they are.

 

[stlblues5010]

Anyone with the new diptube??!! How has it been working? Not too many comments about it.

 

[HLSheppard]

Anyone with the new diptube??!! How has it been working? Not too many comments about it.

I have it and it's great. I posted a few pics a couple pages back. Top quality and you get a LOT more out of your kettle!

I got sick of tipping it.

 

[Enemygod]

I have it and it's great. I posted a few pics a couple pages back. Top quality and you get a LOT more out of your kettle!



I got sick of tipping it.

Same here. Works perfectly and is a quality piece. Definitely worth the extra few bucks.

 

[Wright]

Same here. Works perfectly and is a quality piece. Definitely worth the extra few bucks.

Agreed, it is a very quality piece. I finally have a hops basket so hopefully my issue with hops debris clogging things up won't happen this weekend when I brew.

Edit: Brewed today with a new hops basket, grain basket and the dip tube. Wow! Makes life so much easier.

 

[bowtie]

Anyone with the new diptube??!! How has it been working? Not too many comments about it.

Works perfectly. I use fresh hops with a basket and it sucked the kettle dry with no clogging or tipping!!!

 

[BrunDog]

Can we see a pic?

 

[HLSheppard]

Can we see a pic?

Pics are on posts #1248 and #1252. Enjoy!

 

[stlblues5010]

Compliments to Darrin

I started having problems awhile back where my boil detect would indicate boil starting at about 185 degrees F. I contacted him, he suggested increasing my boil detect time. Sometimes it would work sometimes it didn't. Then on a batch I was having a problem while heating to strike temp of 156F it would show a temp of like 135F or 140F then I'd turn around and it would say strike temp reached, I'd look at the temp and it would show 185. I restarted the brew session a couple of time, I finally got through it.
A few days later I decided look into it, I found wiggling the temp probe would bounce between the temp 32-185F. I sent the temp probe and circuit board to Darrin he verified the probe was bad. I had to pay for the replacement probe but he covered shipping.

Just a warning be careful around the temp probe they damage easily.

Darrin was super quick to respond to my emails and once he got the parts he tested them and got a resolution quickly. He got them shipped back and I was up and running in a week.
Like several people have said here he has great customer support.

Thanks Darrin and staff.

 

[HLSheppard]

Compliments to Darrin

I started having problems awhile back where my boil detect would indicate boil starting at about 185 degrees F. I contacted him, he suggested increasing my boil detect time. Sometimes it would work sometimes it didn't. Then on a batch I was having a problem while heating to strike temp of 156F it would show a temp of like 135F or 140F then I'd turn around and it would say strike temp reached, I'd look at the temp and it would show 185. I restarted the brew session a couple of time, I finally got through it.
A few days later I decided look into it, I found wiggling the temp probe would bounce between the temp 32-185F. I sent the temp probe and circuit board to Darrin he verified the probe was bad. I had to pay for the replacement probe but he covered shipping.

Just a warning be careful around the temp probe they damage easily.

Darrin was super quick to respond to my emails and once he got the parts he tested them and got a resolution quickly. He got them shipped back and I was up and running in a week.
Like several people have said here he has great customer support.

Thanks Darrin and staff.

Do you have an idea as to how it was damaged? Just curious...

 

[stlblues5010]

Do you have an idea as to how it was damaged? Just curious...

Not sure. Darrin suggested it can happen if the probe is dropped. There is ceramic inside of it that can crack. I don't recall dropping it so another possibility is the COFI filter hitting it going in and out. It's also possible the wiring between the probe and plug got damaged. I imagine it's fine wires in there and wouldn't take much to break them.

 

[HLSheppard]

Not sure. Darrin suggested it can happen if the probe is dropped. There is ceramic inside of it that can crack. I don't recall dropping it so another possibility is the COFI filter hitting it going in and out. It's also possible the wiring between the probe and plug got damaged. I imagine it's fine wires in there and wouldn't take much to break them.

I *know* I've bumped mine a time or two with the COFI filter... <EEEEK>

That's what I was hoping you wouldn't say. LOL

 

[stlblues5010]

I *know* I've bumped mine a time or two with the COFI filter... <EEEEK>

That's what I was hoping you wouldn't say. LOL

It's hard not to because you have the temp probe opposite the COFI inlet connection. I'm wondering if you couldn't move the COFI inlet to the same side as the temp probe and plug the other hole.