Bray's One Month Mead

[JSappenf]

JSappenf, there are several online calculators you can use; here's one:
http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv_calculator.php

Your fermentation has a ways to go still!

Bookmarking...... Just since I was adding more sugar, I wanted to know how. Far it got. We are back up to 1.078.

 

[rfsido]

If you want to calculate the finished %ABV, you'll have to do the calculation in two steps, since you added sugar twice.

I'm glad to hear that it works for melomels; have you tried this with raspberry honey?

 

[Oddball]

Done fermenting and ready to drink do not always go hand in hand. With wine yeast, it almost never goes hand in hand. Wine yeast make a lot of harsh fusels that take time to age out. EC1118 is one of the cleaner fermenters, but it still needs months to age after the ferment is finished.

The reason Wyeast 1388 is special is because it is ready to drink when the ferment is finished. Before if you like sweet mead. It also clears within a month unlike wine yeast.

Is there another yeast that would work as well as Wyeast 1388? My LHBS doesn't have it or the WL equivalent (Belgian golden). Is there any others that you have played around with that you could recommend?

Thanks

 

[Atek]

Well picked up some honey and Wyeast 1388 today and smacked the pack in preparation for tomorrow then as I was writing down my process for tomorrow and realized I do not have any potassium carbonate... How critical is this, how often did the yeast stall during your experience when not using compared to using it?

 

[JSappenf]

Well picked up some honey and Wyeast 1388 today and smacked the pack in preparation for tomorrow then as I was writing down my process for tomorrow and realized I do not have any potassium carbonate... How critical is this, how often did the yeast stall during your experience when not using compared to using it?

So the local brew store told me to use the reverse osmosis water at my local grocery store. The drinking water is supposed to have enough minerals in it already.

 

[loveofrose]

I don't know if you guys are familiar with Joes Ancient Orange Mead (JAOM) or not, so let me explain it. In JAOM, the recipe explicitly states if you change the recipe in any way, you void all warranty.

The BOMM is no different.

If you change, exclude, substitute, omit, or otherwise, it may not work!
It is possible that it will work, but no guarantee !

Edit: I use Ozarka spring water. I find trace nutrients in the water are very important for clearing and yeast health.

Potassium carbonate is extremely important. I would not start without it. I operate under the mantra "Do it right, or don't do it at all". I made a lot of mead before potassium carbonate and around 60% stalled. Never tried it with 1388, so all bets are off.

 

[Oddball]

You mentioned a Belgian yeast experiment so I thought you might know of others that would work. Sorry for wasting your time....

 

[JSappenf]

Where would you find potassium carbonate? My brew strore didn't have it.

 

[loveofrose]

Northern Brewer sells potassium bicarbonate. It has come to my attention that calling it potassium carbonate instead of potassium bicarbonate had caused some confusion. They are the same thing.
Sorry for any confusion!

 

[loveofrose]

You mentioned a Belgian yeast experiment so I thought you might know of others that would work. Sorry for wasting your time....

#49 post on this thread contains the results of the Belgian ale experiment. You are welcome to try one of those yeast, but they were not as good as Wyeast 1388. I merely want you to drink the best mead possible. I do not see answering questions or helping fellow mead makers as a waste of time. I am sorry if I made you feel that way.

 

[JSappenf]

I don't know if you guys are familiar with Joes Ancient Orange Mead (JAOM) or not, so let me explain it. In JAOM, the recipe explicitly states if you change the recipe in any way, you void all warranty.

The BOMM is no different.

If you change, exclude, substitute, omit, or otherwise, it may not work!
It is possible that it will work, but no guarantee !

Edit: I use Ozarka spring water. I find trace nutrients in the water are very important for clearing and yeast health.

Potassium carbonate is extremely important. I would not start without it. I operate under the mantra "Do it right, or don't do it at all". I made a lot of mead before potassium carbonate and around 60% stalled. Never tried it with 1388, so all bets are off.

I guess I will be checking the final specific gravity. I will publish my possibly minor alterations if it works, I guess if it doesn't, it will serve as a warning....

 

[Oddball]

#49 post on this thread contains the results of the Belgian ale experiment. You are welcome to try one of those yeast, but they were not as good as Wyeast 1388. I merely want you to drink the best mead possible. I do not see answering questions or helping fellow mead makers as a waste of time. I am sorry if I made you feel that way.

Thanks, I read through the thread, but I must have overlooked that. I want to drink nothing but the best mead as well and just wanted to have a batch ready by Christmas (poor planning on my part). The closest HBS that has this yeast is not worth the drive or the $8 on top of the price of the yeast to have it shipped. That is why I was inquiring about other options. I will just have to play around with what I have available and see what happens...

 

[Atek]

Ok, got my potassium carbonate today and made a batch of this using 2lb 8oz north dakota clover honey. OG came out to 1.100. I made a second batch I'm dubbing jBOMM (my name is Jackson) using nottingham dry yeast. I completely expect the BOMM original to be better but I had exactly 2.5lb's honey left over and some nottingham, figured what the heck right?

 

[loveofrose]

Ok, got my potassium carbonate today and made a batch of this using 2lb 8oz north dakota clover honey. OG came out to 1.100. I made a second batch I'm dubbing jBOMM (my name is Jackson) using nottingham dry yeast. I completely expect the BOMM original to be better but I had exactly 2.5lb's honey left over and some nottingham, figured what the heck right?

Lots of folks use Nottingham yeast. I've never done a side by side with 1388, so please let us know your tasting notes at 1 month!

 

[mastersplinter5]

Total noob to meads. I would really like to try to make a 1 gallon batch of this. I was having trouble clarifying the amount or wyeast to use for a 1 gallon batch. Do I use a whole smack pack for 1 gallon?

 

[loveofrose]

Total noob to meads. I would really like to try to make a 1 gallon batch of this. I was having trouble clarifying the amount or wyeast to use for a 1 gallon batch. Do I use a whole smack pack for 1 gallon?

That is correct. Smack the pack and let it go 2 hour to overnight, then pitch the entire pack in. Try to get every drop. I generally sanitize the corner, then cut it small enough that the nutrient packet doesn't come flying out with the yeast!

 

[Atek]

Just curious if you've tried hopping this? I have some challenger hops... I'm considering doing another batch in a month (crosses fingers) and dry hopping... Iv heard dry hopping does not age well though as the flavors dissipate quickly. What if I boil with just water then let it cool and add the honey and remaining ingredients? If this turns out to be 1 month then indeed this helps those who like to try new things, also kills the wallet since mead can be made faster

 

[loveofrose]

Just curious if you've tried hopping this? I have some challenger hops... I'm considering doing another batch in a month (crosses fingers) and dry hopping... Iv heard dry hopping does not age well though as the flavors dissipate quickly. What if I boil with just water then let it cool and add the honey and remaining ingredients? If this turns out to be 1 month then indeed this helps those who like to try new things, also kills the wallet since mead can be made faster

I've not tried hopping this. I certainly will not discourage experimentation!
Let me know how it turns out!

 

[Atek]

Just some notes on this, already noticed in just the day these have been going the 1388 is off to a faster start, degassing the meads the 1388 appears to be more vigorous and less easily strained. I say less easily strained as the nottingham has subtle but noticeable sulfur odors coming off of it. I will not change the treatment of this mead to correct this. I will continue to treat both meads the same.

 

[mastersplinter5]

So I got a 1 gallon batch going. When I shake, how do I go about it without having an Mead explosion? Is foaming normal? Should I shake with the airlock on?

 

[loveofrose]

So I got a 1 gallon batch going. When I shake, how do I go about it without having an Mead explosion? Is foaming normal? Should I shake with the airlock on?

Gently at first with the airlock on. You can get a bit more vigorous after the initial bomb of fizz is finished.

Careful adding nutrients. Either add very slowly or dissolve in a tsp of water first.

 

[loveofrose]

I now have some BOMM that is 3 months old. I've been wondering if age can improve an already good mead. Well, of course it can. This mead at 3 months is the equivalent of a 2 year old mead I made with Wyeast dry mead yeast.

My cyser BOMM has cleared nicely in a month and is quite good already.
At this rate, I don't think I'll ever need another yeast!

I would love to hear other folks progress if you have any comments.

 

[JSappenf]

My adulterated BOMM is still bubbling. I am very curious about how it will turn out since the fermentation has been so vigorous. Next Sunday will be 4 weeks.

 

[Atek]

An update here, my true BOMM is still bubbling a bit and cloudy, where my jBOMM (nottingham) is also still bubbling but is MUCH more clear than the BOMM. Both smell the same (good).

On a side note it surprises me that no acids are added to this, guess I'll have to wait and taste before making that judgement however.

 

[loveofrose]

Adding acids upfront is no longer advised as it drops the pH too much for the yeasties. This can often result in stuck ferments.

Instead, let the ferment finish, then add acid to your taste.

 

[JSappenf]

So I pitched two vials of Belgian Golden Ale yeast WLP570 4 weeks and 2 days ago. It appears to still be bubbling (maybe not as vigorously). Still waiting for it to finish. It doesn't look like it will finish before Thanksgiving, but it will be close.

 

[loveofrose]

What is the gravity? Bubbles don't mean anything. It could have been done two weeks ago and still bubble.

Also, I use Wyeast 1388. While 1388 and WLP570 originate from Duvel, they do have different characteristics associated with how the companies propagate them. I'm not sure if your mead is a fair comparison as a result of this.

You haven't mentioned the most important thing though.
How does it taste? Cloudy or not it should still taste good if it is a comparable yeast.

 

[Shellysbrew]

That you for posting this. I need to do some shopping and then I will be trying this. It will be my first time at making any thing other then milk beer.

 

[Descender]

What is the gravity? Bubbles don't mean anything. It could have been done two weeks ago and still bubble.
.

If it bubbles, it's still making alcohol, right?

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

Yes, LoR went a little overboard as far as meaning nothing. They do mean something, but most people relate it to these things,

1. A batch starting/ not starting (wrong because a bad seal may mean ferment but no bubbles. Check your gravity)
2. A batch is bubbling less than another one so it's not going as fast (Bubbles from batch to batch DO mean nothing since Co2 will need more pressure before pushing larger amounts of water / fluid up the airlock)
3. A batch is finished (It may mean it has slowed down, but won't tell you that its stopped. Check your gravity)