Bray's One Month Mead

[loveofrose]

Day 8 of the Cyser BOMM
Gravity ~1.01.

Wow. Looks like hell, tastes like heaven.
This is going to be good!

 

[Edbert]

I tried to measure my gravity the other day but hydrometer hit the bottom. Took a sample last night and it appeared to be just under 1.00, I thought that was impossible so I base-lined some tap water. The BOMM is lighter!

Interestingly I kind of thought the pale yellow with slight clouding looked good, but the taste was kinda sour. Then again I've never tasted mead so maybe it is spot on shrug.

I have it racked into smaller 20oz and 1-liter bottles and noticed a layer of sediment forming, maybe I should rack it again?

 

[loveofrose]

I tried to measure my gravity the other day but hydrometer hit the bottom. Took a sample last night and it appeared to be just under 1.00, I thought that was impossible so I base-lined some tap water. The BOMM is lighter!

Interestingly I kind of thought the pale yellow with slight clouding looked good, but the taste was kinda sour. Then again I've never tasted mead so maybe it is spot on shrug.

I have it racked into smaller 20oz and 1-liter bottles and noticed a layer of sediment forming, maybe I should rack it again?

How many days in are you? The flavors take the full month to develop.
You racked too soon. You should have waited until in was crystal clear to rack. No big deal. Just rack everything again into one container.

Now you have a choice. Most folks like mead at least semi sweet. You can add honey back to 1.01 and taste (~2 oz). I like mine dry, but occasionally I will backsweeten. Give it a week or so to make sure the honey has fully dissolved, the gravity is stable, and the yeast have given up. Repeat as many times as you need too.

 

[Edbert]

How many days in are you? The flavors take the full month to develop.
You racked too soon. You should have waited until in was crystal clear to rack. No big deal. Just rack everything again into one container.

Now you have a choice. Most folks like mead at least semi sweet. You can add honey back to 1.01 and taste (~2 oz). I like mine dry, but occasionally I will backsweeten. Give it a week or so to make sure the honey has fully dissolved, the gravity is stable, and the yeast have given up. Repeat as many times as you need too.

I racked at about 10 days from the "pitch" since it was clearing fast after the stir. The 1 gallon jug was about 33% cleared after 24-30 hours of not stirring. The bottles are VERY clear now, with a well defined layer of sediment and almost no clouding, it has been sitting in the bottles for 5 days. I'm using clear 1 liter bottles with the wire clamped porcelain caps (like Grolsch) so I can see it quite well.

I'm pretty sure the critters are done if I am below 1.00 right? I think I will rack once more to remove more sediment, cloudyness doesn't bother me a bit (I'm into belgian pale ales remember) but I don't like the gunk

Also think I'll wait another week until the 21-23 day time frame just to make sure before drinking. So to backsweeten you just add some honey and stir it in? I'm thinking my wife will go for it if it tastes like honey, right now it does not

 

[loveofrose]

Mead tastes like mead. Wine doesn't taste like grape juice, so why would mead taste like honey? I find most people love or hate mead. No In between.

One thing I want crystal clear: if you add honey, fermentation may restart. Do not bottle until your gravity is stable over a period of weeks if you add honey.

Glass grenades are not cool!

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

Unless you stabilize before you add the honey. Then you're fine.

 

[JSappenf]

The BOMM - 5 gallons
Smack Wyeast 1388 pack for overnight.
Pitch into 1.5 liter starter with 6 oz honey and pinch of Go Ferm.
Put on stir plate for 2-3 days before pitching.

Add 1 gallon OB honey to 3.5 gallons water.
Use a drill powered mixer to mix honey.
Dose the following at must creation, 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break.
1 tsp DAP + 2 tsp Fermaid K
Add 3/4 tsp potassium carbonate.
Stir again to aerate and add starter.
Add additional water to SG 1.096-1.1.

Degas daily for at least a week.

This mead is great at 24 days! Enjoy!

This is perfect. However, I am going to need a more simple version of this recipe. Someone said something about boiling, I don't see boiling in this recipe. Does this mean we are supposed to mix the honey before we boil? What is the sugar break?

 

[loveofrose]

This is perfect. However, I am going to need a more simple version of this recipe. Someone said something about boiling, I don't see boiling in this recipe. Does this mean we are supposed to mix the honey before we boil? What is the sugar break?

There is no boiling. You add the honey to water and stir. In a gallon version, I cap and shake. For 5 gallon version, I have a stirrer that attached to a drill. Boiling destroy a lot of the wonderful aromas that make mead delicious.

I will give an example to explain sugar break. If SG is 1.099, 2/3 break is 1.066 and 1/3 break is 1.033. It's basically when the yeast have yet to eat 2/3 and 1/3 of the sugar.

A more detailed version explaining the nutrient is contained in this post. As far as "more simple", I don't know what you mean. The recipe absolutely requires everything I listed. If you ommit anything, it likely will not turn out.

Edit: Nutrient explanation:
All can be obtained from Northern Brewer or Morewine.

1. potassium carbonate: Added to buffer pH and to provide potassium, which is limited in honey
NOTE: Not calcium carbonate, makes mead chalky; NOT sodium bicarbonate, makes mead salty!

2. Diammonium Phospate (DAP): Free nitrogen is limited in honey.

3. Fermaid K: Provides vitamins as well as more free nitrogen. Honey is extremely nutrient deficient so you need to add lots. If you don't, yeast are starved and produce rotten egg smells and fusels.

 

[JSappenf]

I made my first 5 gallon batch today.....

 

[WVMJ]

I will give an example to explain sugar break. If SG is 1.099, 2/3 break is 1.066 and 1/3 break is 1.033. It's basically when the yeast have yet to eat 2/3 and 1/3 of the sugar.

I think the breaks mean when they have eaten 1/3 of the sugar and then 2/3 of the sugar. I believe most SOP add at the begining and then at the 1/3 break and stop adding, adding after half the sugar is gone is basically beleived to be to late as the yeast can sucessfully matabolize the nitrogen after the halwaypoint. Not that there is a real SOP established yet, just a guideline. ScottsLab has a nice fermentation handbook you can download from their website that explains some of this very well. WVMJ

 

[loveofrose]

I think the breaks mean when they have eaten 1/3 of the sugar and then 2/3 of the sugar. I believe most SOP add at the begining and then at the 1/3 break and stop adding, adding after half the sugar is gone is basically beleived to be to late as the yeast can sucessfully matabolize the nitrogen after the halwaypoint. Not that there is a real SOP established yet, just a guideline. ScottsLab has a nice fermentation handbook you can download from their website that explains some of this very well. WVMJ

WVMJ is correct. It is when they eat 1/3 and 2/3. I know the established SOP says not to add after 1/2, but in my hands, adding after this point pushes the yeast through the last bit a lot faster. Proof is in my fermentation speeds. I know it's a can o wormies, but I stand by it. It was also thought mead needed to ferment for a year at one point, then SNAs were introduced from the wine industry. SOPs are only SOPs until someone debunks it.

 

[loveofrose]

I made my first 5 gallon batch today.....

Cool. Please give updates!

 

[JSappenf]

I think the breaks mean when they have eaten 1/3 of the sugar and then 2/3 of the sugar. I believe most SOP add at the begining and then at the 1/3 break and stop adding, adding after half the sugar is gone is basically beleived to be to late as the yeast can sucessfully matabolize the nitrogen after the halwaypoint. Not that there is a real SOP established yet, just a guideline. ScottsLab has a nice fermentation handbook you can download from their website that explains some of this very well. WVMJ

Oh, so when I showed the recipe to my local home brew store, he said that probably meant I was supposed to break up how I give my honey to keep the specific gravity down. So he was having me give nutrient every day for a week and then give the last third of the honey. I checked my specific gravity before I put my yeast in, and it was at 1.7. I thought that was pretty good for a 2/3 sugar break since the place I bought honey from sold it in pounds instead of gallons. Anyways, its already bubbling out CO2. So we will see how it turns out.

By the way, for the 5 gallon recipe, is it really supposed to be potassium carbonate? My brew store sells potassium sorbate and calcium carbonate. We thought it was calcium carbonate since the sorbate would stop it from fermenting.

 

[loveofrose]

Oh, so when I showed the recipe to my local home brew store, he said that probably meant I was supposed to break up how I give my honey to keep the specific gravity down. So he was having me give nutrient every day for a week and then give the last third of the honey. I checked my specific gravity before I put my yeast in, and it was at 1.7. I thought that was pretty good for a 2/3 sugar break since the place I bought honey from sold it in pounds instead of gallons. Anyways, its already bubbling out CO2. So we will see how it turns out.

By the way, for the 5 gallon recipe, is it really supposed to be potassium carbonate? My brew store sells potassium sorbate and calcium carbonate. We thought it was calcium carbonate since the sorbate would stop it from fermenting.

It has to be potassium carbonate. Calcium carbonate makes the mead chalky. Potassium carbonate both buffers the ph and provides potassium, which is limiting in honey.

 

[WVMJ]

They are mixing up Staggerd Yeast Nutrient Additions and Step Feeding, 2 different proceedures that can happen at the same time. The things is that there really is not 1/3 sugar break if you are going to keep step feeding, Scott labs says to add more nutrients for a high OG but not sure what they recommend if you keep feeding honey. WVMJ

Oh, so when I showed the recipe to my local home brew store, he said that probably meant I was supposed to break up how I give my honey to keep the specific gravity down. So he was having me give nutrient every day for a week and then give the last third of the honey. I checked my specific gravity before I put my yeast in, and it was at 1.7. I thought that was pretty good for a 2/3 sugar break since the place I bought honey from sold it in pounds instead of gallons. Anyways, its already bubbling out CO2. So we will see how it turns out.

By the way, for the 5 gallon recipe, is it really supposed to be potassium carbonate? My brew store sells potassium sorbate and calcium carbonate. We thought it was calcium carbonate since the sorbate would stop it from fermenting.

 

[WVMJ]

I was hoping the BOMM would translate to a SOP for any yeast, not just one yeast, its limiting only having this specific recipe for one yeast. If it was a procedure that could be applied to most yeasts that would be great. Drinkable and aged just right are 2 different things Someone one day will rig up a pump that dribbles little drops of nutrient in slowly like an IV, maybe another one to pump in a little honey at the same time! WVMJ

WVMJ is correct. It is when they eat 1/3 and 2/3. I know the established SOP says not to add after 1/2, but in my hands, adding after this point pushes the yeast through the last bit a lot faster. Proof is in my fermentation speeds. I know it's a can o wormies, but I stand by it. It was also thought mead needed to ferment for a year at one point, then SNAs were introduced from the wine industry. SOPs are only SOPs until someone debunks it.

 

[loveofrose]

I was hoping the BOMM would translate to a SOP for any yeast, not just one yeast, its limiting only having this specific recipe for one yeast. If it was a procedure that could be applied to most yeasts that would be great. Drinkable and aged just right are 2 different things Someone one day will rig up a pump that dribbles little drops of nutrient in slowly like an IV, maybe another one to pump in a little honey at the same time! WVMJ

This is the procedure I use for every yeast, but I understand if others have a different method. It can and has been applied to all the yeast I use with good result.

As far as drinkable versus aged right, this mead is more than just drinkable at one month. I tested it side by side with DV10, KIV-1116, & EC1118 along with numerous ale yeast. Wyeast 1388 is delicious at 30 days. I am not saying it could not benefit from age. What I am saying is compared to those yeast at one month, this one is delicious with none of the wine yeast associated off flavors. It has also impressed several mead makers over at gotmead. I see those guys as knowing what they are doing.

This protocol is essentially a beer brewers first mead which is my background. Anyone can make a JAOM, but not everyone really enjoys or wants a metheglin. Especially people from a non-sweet beer brewing background. On top of that, JAOM still takes 4-6 months to really be good.

As far as SOP, I find everyone does something a bit different. Some superstition, some what they have been told. I just do what works for me. If you follow the protocol, you make good mead. Drink in a month or a year is entirely up to the mead maker.

 

[WVMJ]

BOMM is staggered yeast nutrient additions using Wyeast 1388. That is kind of one of the standard ways to make mead with any yeast, but you found that 1388, with its higher alcohol tolerance than most ale yeasts, does the job quicker. Does it taste like ale? I ask because I am using SafAle-05 on a cyser, compared to D47 and QA233, and the SafAle tastes like beer while the others taste more like cider or white wine. We did the JAOM, to much bitterness from the orange rind, couldnt add enough honey to cover that up. THanks, WVMJ

 

[loveofrose]

BOMM is staggered yeast nutrient additions using Wyeast 1388. That is kind of one of the standard ways to make mead with any yeast, but you found that 1388, with its higher alcohol tolerance than most ale yeasts, does the job quicker. Does it taste like ale? I ask because I am using SafAle-05 on a cyser, compared to D47 and QA233, and the SafAle tastes like beer while the others taste more like cider or white wine. We did the JAOM, to much bitterness from the orange rind, couldnt add enough honey to cover that up. THanks, WVMJ

Perhaps a bit of explanation is in order. I've been on a quest to delicious mead fast. Not "drinkable". I mean "damn this is good". My reasoning was that wine yeast have never had a selective process to be fusel free fast because most wines age for years. My logic was that beer yeast have been put through a fast product selection as I can produce high gravity beers very fast. Being the scientist I am, I applied the scientific method for finding what I wanted through screening yeast. I tested all yeast at high temperatures (70-80 F) and fermented honey only mead to dryness so that off flavors would be very apparent. So far, I've done the following experiments:

I've tested the following yeast in side by side identical Orange Blosson musts. ALL TASTINGS DONE AT ONE MONTH AFTER PITCHING

Group 1 - Documented as "Ale Yeast Experiment" at gotmead:
Wyeast Dry Mead - Control wine yeast. Not bad, but needs 1-2 years age.
US-05, or Chico Strain - Very beer like but clean. No off flavors.
Safbrew S-33 - Extremely beer like and very tart. No off flavors.
Wyeast 1272 - Stuck at 1.05. Deemed unacceptable for mead.
Wyeast 3787 - Extremely tasty and soft with peach notes at one month. No off flavors Never clears even after extensive aging. This success led me to the Belgian Ale Experiment due to this being the only Belgian ale.

Group 2 - Belgian Ale Experiment documented at gotmead:
Wyeast 3787 - Control, same as above.
Wyeast 3724 Belgian Saison - pretty sulfury and funky. After 2 months it was better and still better than wine yeast.
Wyeast 3463 Forbidden Fruit - Crapped out at 1.02, but was a very good sweet mead. No off flavors. Highly suggested for sweet mead.
Wyeast 3522 Ardennes - Nearly the same as 3463, but not quite as good.
Wyeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale - Very soft, clean flavor. Velvety with some peach notes. Very good as soon as the ferment is done. Crystal clear before the month is out. At two months, it is some of the best dry mead I've had. Does not taste like beer! Tastes like mead!

Group 3 - Varietal Honey Test
All Wyeast 1388 but the following honey were used to ensure that the success was not orange blossom honey specific.
Orange Blossom - Still very good dry. Repeatable results.
Palmetto - Very complex and tasty. I like this one backsweetened to 1.005.
Tupelo - Completely in love with this one. Backsweetened to 1.01.

I also have tested a Cyser using the BOMM method that is extremely good. Best cyser I've ever made in fact. Others at gotmead are in progress with a pyment and a JAOM BOMM. Results are not in yet, but it looks good so far.

Hope that helps explain all the work behind creating this recipe. Next testing will involve tannin and acid additions. I am ever on the the quest for the perfect mead!

 

[hunter_le five]

Great information in this thread! Subscribed.

 

[Oddball]

I am going to try a 1 gallon batch of this tonight, but with ec1118. I listened to a podcast recently that suggested 1 g per gallon. Is that enough? Should I divide the pack up or use it all?

 

[loveofrose]

I am going to try a 1 gallon batch of this tonight, but with ec1118. I listened to a podcast recently that suggested 1 g per gallon. Is that enough? Should I divide the pack up or use it all?

It is not a BOMM if you use any yeast other than Wyeast 1388. While you will make good mead following everything else with EC1118, it will be 3-6 months before it is drinkable and one year before it is really awesome. I'm not saying don't do it. I'm saying it's not a BOMM.

 

[Oddball]

It is not a BOMM if you use any yeast other than Wyeast 1388. While you will make good mead following everything else with EC1118, it will be 3-6 months before it is drinkable and one year before it is really awesome. I'm not saying don't do it. I'm saying it's not a BOMM.

As far as the quantity..... I went with the whole pack. I tried to look it up but the opinions seemed to vary quite drastically. I hope that is ok. Are you sure it will take that long? I went with this yeast because the write up said the fermentation was fast and peaked at under 10 days at around 20C.

http://www.lalvinyeast.com/images/library/EC1118_Yeast.pdf

 

[loveofrose]

Done fermenting and ready to drink do not always go hand in hand. With wine yeast, it almost never goes hand in hand. Wine yeast make a lot of harsh fusels that take time to age out. EC1118 is one of the cleaner fermenters, but it still needs months to age after the ferment is finished.

The reason Wyeast 1388 is special is because it is ready to drink when the ferment is finished. Before if you like sweet mead. It also clears within a month unlike wine yeast.

 

[MarshmallowBlue]

Keepign your ferment on the cooler side will help with fussels greatly. But after reading a bunch of your experiments LoR, I'll probably be switching to those Belgian ale yeasts

 

[nutty_gnome]

Can you just put the 1 gallon bottle on your stir plate and turn it on each day to degas?

 

[loveofrose]

Can you just put the 1 gallon bottle on your stir plate and turn it on each day to degas?

Sure you could. It's not that hard to shake it though.
Whatever you want to do.

 

[JSappenf]

So before I added my 5 lbs more of honey, i used my hydrometer and it had dropped from 1.07 to 1.042. What would that make the alcohol concentration?

 

[rfsido]

Has anyone tried this recipe for a base mead to be turned into a melomel later? I've occasionally found myself at farmers markets and U-pick orchards wishing I had some show mead ready for secondary.

JSappenf, there are several online calculators you can use; here's one:
http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv_calculator.php

Your fermentation has a ways to go still!

 

[loveofrose]

Has anyone tried this recipe for a base mead to be turned into a melomel later? I've occasionally found myself at farmers markets and U-pick orchards wishing I had some show mead ready for secondary.

JSappenf, there are several online calculators you can use; here's one:
http://www.rooftopbrew.net/abv_calculator.php

Your fermentation has a ways to go still!

Many have tried, myself included, to great success!