Bray's One Month Mead

[loveofrose]

I will remember no acid for later meads. At k east it didnt hurt this one to much. Day 5 and its at 1.00. Ok just to clear things up do you mean that you dont nead dap if fermaid o is used or that the fermaid k and o are interchangeable with the only difference being O only needs 1 TBSP for each addition to 5 gal. If so then cut 1 gal addition in half as well? Thank you for all your help, this mead is a god send

Yes, it is either Fermaid K + DAP OR just Fermaid O. I stated 1 TBSP per addition per gallon. For 5 gallons, that is 5 TBSP for 3 additions for a total of 15 TBSP.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Question on the Potassium Carbonate / Potassium Bicarbonate: Don't these supply a very different amount of potassium, and a different amount of buffering? The formulas are:
Potassium carbonate: K-CO3-K
Potassium Bicarbonate K-HCO3

One could easily decompose the Potassium Bicarbonate into Potassium carbonate in my oven if desired... has there been no difference in performance when adding equal masses of each? Or are we getting away with it because of different molecular amounts at equal volumes?

 

[loveofrose]

Question on the Potassium Carbonate / Potassium Bicarbonate: Don't these supply a very different amount of potassium, and a different amount of buffering? The formulas are:

Potassium carbonate: K-CO3-K

Potassium Bicarbonate K-HCO3



One could easily decompose the Potassium Bicarbonate into Potassium carbonate in my oven if desired... has there been no difference in performance when adding equal masses of each? Or are we getting away with it because of different molecular amounts at equal volumes?

As far as buffering is concerned, the pKa is about the same for either compound. As a result, you have to add the same amount to get the same buffering. That is why we add the same amount. To keep the pH buffered.

Concerning K+, K2CO3 adds slightly less than double the K+ of KHCO3. KHCO3 adds enough trace K+ for the yeast to transport ethanol across the membrane. Adding slightly double of this trace amount doesn't really effect anything.

 

[andrewmaixner]

As far as buffering is concerned, the pKa is about the same for either compound. As a result, you have to add the same amount to get the same buffering. That is why we add the same amount. To keep the pH buffered.

Concerning K+, K2CO3 adds slightly less than double the K+ of KHCO3. KHCO3 adds enough trace K+ for the yeast to transport ethanol across the membrane. Adding slightly double of this trace amount doesn't really effect anything.

OK, sounds good. My memory of acid/base/buffering chemistry has gotten pretty rusty.

 

[Danmor1]

Trying a BOMM that's just about (is exactly) a month (31 days) made from local (within 50 miles) locust blossom. Admittedly, I had some blowout (sprayed all over the kitchen while shaking around day 3), but overall about normal for my meads. Trying some tonight, and it smells and tastes just slightly rubbery. Based on other comments, I'm not sure if this is the honey or if my previous attempts were just slightly more sanitary (I follow the same One Step/StarSan process for all fermentations). Thoughts? It still tastes good (to quote a former President), just a bit of rubber in it.

 

[Ike]

Trying some tonight, and it smells and tastes just slightly rubbery. ... just a bit of rubber in it.

Whenever I hear "rubbery" I immediately think about chloramine: I'm still bitter about losing a 6 gallon batch to "bottled" water that was from a municipal source. Did you use a proven water source?

 

[Danmor1]

Whenever I hear "rubbery" I immediately think about chloramine: I'm still bitter about losing a 6 gallon batch to "bottled" water that was from a municipal source. Did you use a proven water source?

Same water I use for every batch I make.

 

[loveofrose]

Trying a BOMM that's just about (is exactly) a month (31 days) made from local (within 50 miles) locust blossom. Admittedly, I had some blowout (sprayed all over the kitchen while shaking around day 3), but overall about normal for my meads. Trying some tonight, and it smells and tastes just slightly rubbery. Based on other comments, I'm not sure if this is the honey or if my previous attempts were just slightly more sanitary (I follow the same One Step/StarSan process for all fermentations). Thoughts? It still tastes good (to quote a former President), just a bit of rubber in it.

Questions to help troubleshoot:
What yeast did you use?
What water did you use?
What was the fermentation temperature and was it steady?
Was it exposed to light?

Rubber flavors are a sign of yeast autolysis from stressed, unhappy yeast. Something you are doing is seriously stressing the yeast. Any ideas?

 

[Danmor1]

Questions to help troubleshoot:
What yeast did you use?
What water did you use?
What was the fermentation temperature and was it steady?
Was it exposed to light?

Rubber flavors are a sign of yeast autolysis from stressed, unhappy yeast. Something you are doing is seriously stressing the yeast. Any ideas?

1388; Kroger Spring gallon jugs; 74+- 2; and kept in brew closet. A possible stressor, though, is this is the first batch I've started in a carboy rather than a bucket, due to a broken fridge and too much yeast that otherwise would be wasted. There might be a different dynamic in shaking vs stirring, and in how much nutrient actually got to it during the additions (as per previously referenced kitchen spraydown). Thinking about it, that seems like a likely explanation.

 

[usmcbalzano]

So its day 11 and for 2 or 3 days my BOMM has a darker film on top of carboy, kinda looks like mead after it starts to clear. It separated then has not done anything else. Also tasted it just to see and it taste not very good. Still early i know. Anyone have an idea what happened?

 

[loveofrose]

So its day 11 and for 2 or 3 days my BOMM has a darker film on top of carboy, kinda looks like mead after it starts to clear. It separated then has not done anything else. Also tasted it just to see and it taste not very good. Still early i know. Anyone have an idea what happened?

Usually, it's beeswax. Any reason to think otherwise?

 

[stella_tigre]

Well, after my first attempt failed in contamination, and not very tasty using clover-wildflower honey, I splurged on some orange blossom honey, and used a partial package of Nottingham for a 1 gallon batch. Just passed the 2/3 sugar break and last SNA, and sneaked a taste. While still a bit too sweet at 1.036, it's still promising to be a much much tastier product! Need to find out if the local honey folks have any basswood honey left....Thanks to loveofrose for such a great set of info!

 

[loveofrose]

I wish you luck with Nottingham. I'm currently in the middle of a yeast experiment with 6 yeast. So far, Nottingham ranks last.

 

[stella_tigre]

I wish you luck with Nottingham. I'm currently in the middle of a yeast experiment with 6 yeast. So far, Nottingham ranks last.

Well, I had read your discussion on GotMead a week or so ago, and Notty wasn't doing so bad, so I went ahead with it. But now I see you had issues with sulfur. Was that later in the ferment? So far I'm clean but we've got a ways to go...

 

[loveofrose]

It only developed sulfur in the last 10 points (1.010-1.000). Hopefully, it will dissipate.

 

[stella_tigre]

Well I'll keep my eyes, or nose, on it and hope. Wonder if it runs low on food, or if that's how Notty complains about alcohol? Never pushed it past 9% and only in cider.

 

[TeeJo]

Wish I had known about the milkweed honey issue earlier.

The batch I made, and drank was far better than the stuff that I wrote of earlier that pretty much tasted like sucking too hard on a gas siphon, but was not good enough to justify the description of good.

Not terrible, just not much more than drinkable.

Gonna try again, eventually.

TeeJo

 

[StickyFeet]

I'm having a lot of trouble finding Fermaid K in Australia. There were suppliers apparently but now they are all out of stock. I've been told that because it contains DAP that Lallemand are not allowed to bring it into the country. All I can get my hands on is Fermaid A and O - I've ordered the A before reading the posts on O so now what do I do? I have not read anything about the A but was only told that it is the replacement for K in Australia. Can someone please shed some light. Cheers.

 

[loveofrose]

Since this is the fast mead kind of group, I thought you might be interested in my 6 day beer-replacement hydromel posted here:
https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/Fidnemed/

Enjoy! I know I am!

 

[usmcbalzano]

That sounds good. I will have to try that out. Do you have a fermaid o to fermaid k conversation for those of us that still have a bunch of K

 

[usmcbalzano]

Back to the bomm. So far ive made a 6 gal batch and started a 1 gal batch 5 days ago. They both taste horrific and smell of bannana. I know that is yeast stress. I payed attention of gravity and added nutrients when needed. Not sure whats wrong. This also might be a stupid question but ill ask anyway, once the yeast puts out that flavor can you reuse yeast later or will it always put out those off flavors? Dont want to hurt future meads u know

 

[loveofrose]

Are you using new rubber bungs?

 

[usmcbalzano]

Im not 100% if the 1 gal bung was new or not. I do wash them well before and sanitize. But 6 gal was done in a bucket, sanitized before and after opening each time.

 

[loveofrose]

I think your temperature is too high. Try a swamp cooler method next time.

 

[Alchemy]

Have you ever filtered/kegged this? Here is mine bomm so far

View attachment 1444326431352.jpg

 

[andrewmaixner]

Good question... Any recommendations on this recipe for carbing, bottling/kegging, and back sweetening with or without sulfites/sorbates?

 

[Alchemy]

I am going to filter with a sterile filter and then keg at 18psi at 35 degrees for half the batch and the other half I will also filter but go with no carb and sulfite/sorbate for longer term storage..... At least that is the plan right now.... Maybe

 

[loveofrose]

You can filter and/or keg it just fine. I use 5 psi for dispensing only because I don't like it carbonated, but you certainly can.

Filtering is fine if you are drinking it immediately. If you are going to age it, the yeast help it to age.

 

[usmcbalzano]

Okay I'll try brewing it at a lower temperature the last two were done in the 68 - 72 degree range. Do you think the saved 1388 yeast will be ok because no where around me sells it and it takes a good week or so to get a new pouch

 

[andrewmaixner]

Okay I'll try brewing it at a lower temperature the last two were done in the 68 - 72 degree range. Do you think the saved 1388 yeast will be ok because no where around me sells it and it takes a good week or so to get a new pouch

Note that this is not mead specific advice, just generic yeast handling advice:

In general, beer yeasts will adapt to the type of sugars they are eating -- so if you feed a strain cider (no maltose) it will adapt to be better at cider.

So don't change directly between honey / juice / malt, but keep the strains branched and stored separately for optimal performance.

For you, I'd recommend you make a large starter with honey and some of your 1388 yeast from the previous batch, and it should be fine.