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Sweet Project Dude! Ya'll have to come out to Austin and help me build one for my Brew Hut this Spring!

Good stuff!
 
I think this is what he's talking about when he mentions Brats.

Johnsonville_Brats.jpg
 
Today's project:

I need to do a little sanding, apply some mud to the seams, and paint/stain...but so far it turned out well.

This will help divide the "bar room" from the "Packer room", but not obscure view of the big screen from bar patrons. It doubles as a mini-shelf/table to set drinks on during dart play or even pull up a stool and acts as another place to watch the TV.

636-kneewallright.jpg
 
Okay, let's talk STAINING.

I'm going to be staining that piece of 2x8 on top of the knee wall I built this weekend. It is pine. I'm going back and forth on what I want to do. I was going to stain it the color of the bar, but I am wavering on that because I'm not positive I'm going to be able to match the color well enough.

My other idea is to paint it black like the steps on the bar, and then polyurethane it to make it glossy. I'm not as high on this idea because black is so--permanent.

So--if i go with stain, do you guys have any tips/tricks on HOW to stain. I've never done it.
 
Definately get some wood conditioner (it's sold right with the stains). It's basically a real milky-white wash that you put on before staining. It lets the stain absorb much more consistently.

You also may want to stain a piece of scrap ahead of time, just to see how well it comes out.
 
2 points of advice:

Stain it first, if you do not like the way it comes out, you can always paint it later. The reverse is not (easily) true.

When you stain, go with the grain of the wood. Lightly sand in between coats and be sure to add one more layer of poly than you are currently planning. Pine is super soft.
 
I learned some staining tips from the guy that did my custom kitchen cabinets. If that's your choice, I'll describe but gotta fly right now
 
Anyways, the cabinet maker dude showed me how to use fine steel wool (I forget, 900 / 1200? Finest sold) to stain wood. Use it just like a rag and rub it in. Nice part about it is you adjust how the stain sets into the wood while applying. No seperate sanding procedure if you went too darkor you have streaking. It also really helps to bring out the grain pattern better. No need for any prep chemical to open the wood pores either. You can keep a separate rag to wipeif it went too dark, but if you keep rubbing with the steel wool it'll lighten up & blend as you move forward so it sholdn't be necessary.

Practice on a larger size piece of pine Dude. Also don't fear the stain and use it adequately. Start on one end and start rubbing it in covering the width of the board while stroking with the grain moving forward. You want to blend nicely so have it lighter as you push forward before you get more stain on the wool. Make sense? Personally, I'd stain to match the bar instead of black... Oh, rubber gloves unless you like that look :eek:.
 
the_bird said:
Definately get some wood conditioner (it's sold right with the stains). It's basically a real milky-white wash that you put on before staining. It lets the stain absorb much more consistently.

You also may want to stain a piece of scrap ahead of time, just to see how well it comes out.

2nd that opinion. For pine - it's an absolute necessity. Pine doesn't take stain evenly. The wood conditioner will solve that and you'll have a MUCH nicer finish.
 
The easy way to stain is to simply dab an old T shirt or undees in the stain and rub it liberally on the wood, then take a paper towel or such and act like you are rubbing off the stain, of course you are not but the idea is to take the excess off so that you end up with an even finish.

I have never heard of the Steel wool trick with stain, i have used that to to rub on the wood after i have sealed it with polyuretahne, put a bit of wax on the S.Wool and rub that all over the sealed wood and you will end up with a nice smooth good looking counter top.
 
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