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Braid not cutting it, need False Bottom help

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magnj

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Joined
Dec 23, 2008
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All, I've got a 17.25" diameter 40qt MLT. I tried a few braid combinations, single large diameter braid, a long braid with a T and looped around, and so on. Braid is not going to work for me.

Unfortunately our kettle is not standard, so we are looking at a DIY or custom FB. Any suggestions on a source, or a cheaper alternative to a $100+ piece? If not, where is my money best spent?

We are running a RIMS and fly sparging for the record. I'm guessing the surface area was just not enough, I have to assume that 230+ sq/in will be enough.:mug:
 
magnj said:
All, I've got a 17.25" diameter 40qt MLT. I tried a few braid combinations, single large diameter braid, a long braid with a T and looped around, and so on. Braid is not going to work for me.

Unfortunately our kettle is not standard, so we are looking at a DIY or custom FB. Any suggestions on a source, or a cheaper alternative to a $100+ piece? If not, where is my money best spent?

We are running a RIMS and fly sparging for the record. I'm guessing the surface area was just not enough, I have to assume that 230+ sq/in will be enough.:mug:

Whats going with the braid
 
Thanks guys, I actually did shoot Jay an email already because his name kept coming up, glad to hear you're happy with what he built.

They have one that's really close already (17-5/8") so it shouldn't be too much to make it fit/work.

I have one of his false bottoms (and dip tube) in my keggle mash tun and love it. IMO, worth every penny.

Jaybird will do custom! (530)243-BEER excellent product and fast shipping.
 
Just not flowing. Did a brew 2 weeks a go with single digit % wheat and we had issues towards the end but survived it. This week 25lbs of grain for a stout went into compost because we couldn't even get the recirc started and our temps dropped way down by the time we figured how to ghetto a solution.

we did some tests with water and un-crushed grain and we could see the grain stick right to the braid and stop flow. I had springs in it so I know it wasn't crushed.

I knew it might be a temporary solution so I'm not too upset but I just want to get it right this time and focus on the beer instead of hardware.

Whats going with the braid
 
gratuitous rig pictures:
5994292286_6349eca3bf_z.jpg

5847402744_02baf7803f_z.jpg
 
Is that a stainless sheathing hose cover? Where did you get that braid? What product is it exactly? McMaster stainless hose cover? A stainless braid should be stout enough to not need anything inside! While I appreciate the effort you invested, I think you used the wrong braid material. Also, IMHO, making a loop with a braid is pointless as the wort will want to take the path of least resistance and enter the braid within a few inches of the bulkhead. A short 6-8 inch stub of proper braid material will lauter well IME.

Remove the tee and put a big ass $10 water heater braid on there and you will lauter a storm!
 
This was the first attempt, also had problems with it. I just don't think a braid is going to work terribly well for someone using a RIMS. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

As much as I like tinkering, I did more than my share to get this setup to where it is, and now I just want it to work. every time.
5837962142_ebd3d7ede7_z.jpg
 
Is that a stainless sheathing hose cover? Where did you get that braid? What product is it exactly? McMaster stainless hose cover? A stainless braid should be stout enough to not need anything inside! While I appreciate the effort you invested, I think you used the wrong braid material. Also, IMHO, making a loop with a braid is pointless as the wort will want to take the path of least resistance and enter the braid within a few inches of the bulkhead. A short 6-8 inch stub of proper braid material will lauter well IME.

Remove the tee and put a big ass $10 water heater braid on there and you will lauter a storm!

What's this water heater braid you're talking about? I was planning on using the SS braid from a short water supply hose for my mash/lauter tun, but would this be better?
 
I agree the loop adds no advantage, but I would have thought a T would work well. The whole thing is surface area. I think the combination of suction with a pump and the relatively low open % of a braid is a recipe for stuck mashes and sparges.
 
yeah i use a 3/4 water heater hose braid that thing is stout.. i did my first ag with it and had no problems what so ever with flow...
 
yeah i use a 3/4 water heater hose braid that thing is stout.. i did my first ag with it and had no problems what so ever with flow...

Are they available in any decent hardward store, like Home Depot?
How long do you have it, like 8" or so?
 
+1 on the water heater braid! I had a manifold that kept getting stuck, I switched to the water heater braid and all is good.
 
This was the first attempt, also had problems with it. I just don't think a braid is going to work terribly well for someone using a RIMS. Correct me if I'm wrong though.

As much as I like tinkering, I did more than my share to get this setup to where it is, and now I just want it to work. every time.
5837962142_ebd3d7ede7_z.jpg

What material is that braid...just guessing here but are you pulling too hard with the pump? I would guess that you cant attempt to recirculate too fast no matter false bottom, braid or otherwise.
 
The braids are stainless. Not going full speed with pump. I'll check out the ones that lie flat, no issue with grain getting under the edge?
 
Not trying to talk you into the braid and I have no experience with a pump, but on your second picture, you should weight the end of the braid or it will float up and cut off the flow. My second AG attempt ended up as an unplanned BIAB because of this. I've since built a manifold to eliminate the braid issues entirely and reduce some of the dead volume. YMMV

BTW, nice setup!
 
Not trying to talk you into the braid and I have no experience with a pump, but on your second picture, you should weight the end of the braid or it will float up and cut off the flow. My second AG attempt ended up as an unplanned BIAB because of this. I've since built a manifold to eliminate the braid issues entirely and reduce some of the dead volume. YMMV

BTW, nice setup!

Thanks, I spent a lot of time planning and drooling over rigs here before we built this. I do appreciate the input on the braids, but I'm going to go for a False Bottom from Jay I think, I don't want to mess around and neither do my brew buddies :rockin:.

So on that note, if I do have him make me a full diameter false bottom, I'll have just under 3 inches under the grain level (we made our hole a bit high). What am I using to pull out the liquid under the bed? I'm thinking some silicone tube? Should I get another dip tube like I have in my HLT?
5837410599_e28b9bf7a0_b.jpg
 
I can tell you from experience, the Jaybird false bottom, with their dip tube, works really well with a pump. I recirculate with the ball valves wide open and the pump going (single speed). Just be sure to give them the measurements they need to make it right.
 
nobody suggests a copper manifold? I built mine in about 2 hours and it cost less than 20 dollars. A great improvement over the SS braid. It took me so long because I thought it would have been a larger and more difficult project. Easy cheesy. And make it any size/shape you want as well.
 
wilserbrewer said:
What material is that braid...just guessing here but are you pulling too hard with the pump? I would guess that you cant attempt to recirculate too fast no matter false bottom, braid or otherwise.

+1 on the pump. I bet if you used your braid without the pump and batch sparged there would be no issues.

Sent from my Samsung Epic 4G using Home Brew Talk
 
Whether I batch sparge our not i'll be recirculating during the mash. We also attempted to just let it drain into a grant as you are suggesting and it gummed up after about a gallon. We are talking about a 1.25 qt mash ratio, I guess I could go thinner...
 
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